Cleaning thermal paste off of gpu

[dabien101]

I have a lenovo ideapad y500 and I wanted to apply AC5 onto the gpu in the ultrabay. I cleaned off the old thermal paste that was on the part that contacts the heatsink but there's some thermal paste that went off the contact and onto the gpu. I can't clean it off because theres some sort of tape or film on the gpu and I'm not sure if its okay to take it off.

Here's a picture of the disassembled ultrabay" http://forum.techinferno.com/lenovo-ibm/3310-pictures-disassembled-y500-ultrabay-gpu.html

In the third row, second picture, you can see theres some kind of film or tape on the gpu and I can't get to the old thermal paste underneath without taking it off. Is it okay for me to just rip it off? or should I just leave it be.

 

[JackNaylorPE]

Most peeps use alcohol but I prefer Indigo Extreme Cleaner

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g8/c123/s1486/list/p1/Thermal-Thermal_Cleaning_Products-Indigo_Xtreme_Clean-Page1.html

Indigo Xtreme Clean™ works better than other products. It possesses higher solvating power than isopropyl alcohol and emulsifying cleaners, yet leaves no residue. Unlike acetone, xylene, and toluene, Indigo Xtreme Clean is non-flammable and is safe for most surfaces.

Also, I'd skip the AS% and use something like Gelid or Shin Etsu ..... AS5 takes 200 hours of thermal cycling to cure.

http://www.arcticsilver.com/as5.htm

Important Reminder:
Due to the unique shape and sizes of the particles in Arctic Silver 5's conductive matrix, it will take a up to 200 hours and several thermal cycles to achieve maximum particle to particle thermal conduction and for the heatsink to CPU interface to reach maximum conductivity. (This period will be longer in a system without a fan on the heatsink or with a low speed fan on the heatsink.) On systems measuring actual internal core temperatures via the CPU's internal diode, the measured temperature will often drop 2C to 5C over this "break-in" period. This break-in will occur during the normal use of the computer as long as the computer is turned off from time to time and the interface is allowed to cool to room temperature. Once the break-in is complete, the computer can be left on if desired.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835426020
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835150080

 

[dabien101]

Most peeps use alcohol but I prefer Indigo Extreme Cleaner

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g8/c123/s1486/list/p1/Thermal-Thermal_Cleaning_Products-Indigo_Xtreme_Clean-Page1.html

Indigo Xtreme Clean™ works better than other products. It possesses higher solvating power than isopropyl alcohol and emulsifying cleaners, yet leaves no residue. Unlike acetone, xylene, and toluene, Indigo Xtreme Clean is non-flammable and is safe for most surfaces.

Also, I'd skip the AS% and use something like Gelid or Shin Etsu ..... AS5 takes 200 hours of thermal cycling to cure.

http://www.arcticsilver.com/as5.htm

Important Reminder:
Due to the unique shape and sizes of the particles in Arctic Silver 5's conductive matrix, it will take a up to 200 hours and several thermal cycles to achieve maximum particle to particle thermal conduction and for the heatsink to CPU interface to reach maximum conductivity. (This period will be longer in a system without a fan on the heatsink or with a low speed fan on the heatsink.) On systems measuring actual internal core temperatures via the CPU's internal diode, the measured temperature will often drop 2C to 5C over this "break-in" period. This break-in will occur during the normal use of the computer as long as the computer is turned off from time to time and the interface is allowed to cool to room temperature. Once the break-in is complete, the computer can be left on if desired.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835426020
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835150080

You know, it'd be nice if you read the question.

 

[JackNaylorPE]

You were asking about the plastic piece..... I recommended the product because noit only will it remove TIM but it won't bother anything and is an adhesive solvent and ya don't wanna tear that thing ripping it off because it likely is there for insulating purposes. I wuda been happy to explain in more detail but given the tone your response, I think I'll pass.

Prolly shuda read this too

(While much safer than electrically conductive silver and copper greases, Arctic Silver 5 should be kept away from electrical traces, pins, and leads. While it is not electrically conductive, the compound is very slightly capacitive and could potentially cause problems if it bridges two close-proximity electrical paths.)

 

[dabien101]

You were asking about the plastic piece..... I recommended the product because noit only will it remove TIM but it won't bother anything and is an adhesive solvent and ya don't wanna tear that thing ripping it off because it likely is there for insulating purposes. I wuda been happy to explain in more detail but given the tone your response, I think I'll pass.

Prolly shuda read this too

(While much safer than electrically conductive silver and copper greases, Arctic Silver 5 should be kept away from electrical traces, pins, and leads. While it is not electrically conductive, the compound is very slightly capacitive and could potentially cause problems if it bridges two close-proximity electrical paths.)

You didn't read the question the first time that's why I'm annoyed. If you just gave me this the first time "is an adhesive solvent and ya don't wanna tear that thing ripping it off because it likely is there for insulating purposes." then I'd be okay. In your first answer you told me what to remove the thermal paste with, If you actually read my question I already said that I've removed the thermal paste. Then you told me what not to use and what to use for thermal paste. You completely disregarded the question. A recommendation is nice but that's not what I'm here for, I'm here for an answer to my question.