Compatibility of water cooling loop parts

[omar80747326]

If I am collecting parts for a water loop, how can I be sure about the compatibility of parts before I buy anything even if I've got parts from different manufacturers?!
Parts:
Phanteks strix 1080 ti OC water blocks
Alphacool xt45 420mm and 360mm radiators
Ekwb x299 pro carbon ac rgb monoblock
Ekwb hard tubing 10/12mm 50cm 2pcs
Ekwb RES x3 250 rgb reservoir
Ekwb stop revo d5 plexi pump
Ekwb HDC fittings 12mm g1/4
Ekwb angled 90° adapters g1/4
Cooler master h500p case

In addition, Please I need to know such an idea about what are the meanings of numbers and letters used for water cooling fittings, adapters and tube sizes like g1/4, 10/13 and 1/3!?

 

[Lutfij]

1| So long as the fittings are G1/4 and your components have the necessary ports for which the fittings go onto, then you're fine!
2| You may want to list your proposed system build like so:
CPU:
Motherboard:
Ram:
SSD/HDD:
GPU:
PSU:
Chassis: Cooler Master H500P

3| You may want to read through the watercooling sticky, it answers pretty much all of any newcomer's watercooling questions.

 

[omar80747326]

What's the link to this water cooling sticky site, please?

 

[Lucky_SLS]

Watercooling sticky : http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-3038208/overclocking-cooling-water-cooling-sticky-index.html

Are you still open for case suggestions? If so, take a look at the lian li pc o11 dynamic.

You don't need 3 reservoirs for a single loop setup. 1 250ml would be more than enough.

Instead of going with reservoir separately and pump separately, try the swiftech malestorm pump res combo. If you want to go separate units, go for glass reservoirs like the Barrow boxfish or watercool heatkiller. Looks better than the plain old cylindrical acrylic ones.

And a 45mm 420 and 360 for a 1080ti and skylake X cpu is overkill. Have a 360 45mm and if you want for aesthetics purpose, another 280/360 slim rad.

 

[omar80747326]

Whatever the build was, if I am gonna be using the g1/4 size for tubing, adapters and fittings in such loop, are there several different OD and ID measurements in this size class or just these measurements 3/8 - 5/8 and 16mm OD!? And how can I know tubing, adapters and fittings OD, ID and sizes in mom from such numbers like 7/16, 1/2 or 1/3?!

 

[rubix_1011]

ID and OD are the barb and tubing sizes:

ID = inner diameter in relation to tubing inner diameter
OD = outer diameter in relation to tubing outer diameter

G1/4 is the thread size of the fitting (nothing really to do with the tubing size) - the part that threads into the radiator, block, etc. G1/4 is the most common watercooling component size and is non-tapered and requires use of an O-ring, but there are some out there in G3/8 and other NPT (tapered thread) sizes, although they're more rare. Just make sure you have G1/4 all the way around.

 

[omar80747326]

By the way, are there any websites like pcpartpicker can feature virtual water loop builds and compatibility of parts?

 

[rubix_1011]

All parts are compatible with each other.

For example, you can use Bitspower fittings with an EK CPU block with an XSPC radiator and a Swiftech pump connected to an Alphacool reservoir.

Just avoid anything made of aluminum.

 

[dederedmi5plus]

In addition, Please I need to know such an idea about what are the meanings of numbers and letters used for water cooling fittings, adapters and tube sizes like g1/4, 10/13 and 1/3!?

You're using 12mm hard tube which require hard tube fitting such as EKWB HDC 12mm fitting. I recommend use part and fitting from single vendor, EKWB is good vendor, and you also need ATX bridging for initial bleeding.

 

[omar80747326]

But why I'll need something like an atx 24-pin bridging plug for a water loop when I can connect parts to controllers and PSU cables? What can something like this do?!

 

[Lucky_SLS]

Atx bridging tool is used to fool the psu to power the pump alone. Handy if any leak occurs. Imagine if the leak shorts ur parts which are switched on otherwise.

 

[rubix_1011]

Assuming this is what is being discussed: https://www.amazon.com/Antrons-24-P...=1534777989&sr=8-7&keywords=24+pin+atx+jumper

If yes, this powers on your 5v and 12v accessories but prevents the system from going into full on boot/operation mode to allow you to cycle power on/off for the pump to allow filling. While this is an optional tool, it's very helpful if you aren't familiar on how to manually jump the ATX plug itself.

 

[omar80747326]

Should I care about choosing adapters and fittings if the extender fittings or adapters are male to male, female to female, male to female or even female to male, what can make the difference if they can go in any radiator or tube as inlet openings have got the same sizes?

 

[rubix_1011]

G1/4 is the fitting thread size in almost every watercooling component. Tubing size is denoted by the ID/OD value. You obviously need male fittings for female ports in blocks, radiators, pumps, etc.

 

[omar80747326]

Is that means that I should get something like male to female or the opposite thing, also are most radiators and blocks have got male or female inlet openings, so should I know the specs of loop parts especially type of inlet openings male or female before choosing adapters or fittings, can this make a difference whether the fitting can go inside or can't or I don't have to do that as male or female fittings can go inside any of the loop parts?!

 

[rubix_1011]

Almost all components are female ports, all the fittings are male G1/4.

 

[omar80747326]

But I think female and male fittings can plug into most components, I mean male rings have got threads to plug in radiators, pumps and reservoirs and tubing goes through male rings which have no threads. Right?!

 

[dederedmi5plus]

But I think female and male fittings can plug into most components, I mean male rings have got threads to plug in radiators, pumps and reservoirs and tubing goes through male rings which have no threads. Right?!

watch video tutorial on custom liquid cooler build, you'll get clearer sight about plugging + connecting + joining parts. It's impossible to set without leakage testing, hard tube is actually more prone to leak compare to soft tube, those bent and conjunction need a good at least a day observing.

Even if it finally leak free loop, you'll have to do flow rate + thermal testing, what're your planned water pump? I sure hope won't be weak pump model

 

[omar80747326]

In most fiitings you find just for tubing with certain OD like 16mm but not the id like 12-10mm so how can I know the ID to be compatible with the tubing, and if didn't know the fittings ID and just tubing ID what's the important thing about the ID in if the tube with compatible OD can go in the fitting?

 

[rubix_1011]

I am not sure what you are asking. You want to match tubing ID to fitting ID, tubing OD to fitting OD.

I think you are asking questions and making this more difficult mentally until you understand what is actually needed. Also, there is a section of the watercooling sticky that an example of this: http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/277130-29-read-first-watercooling-sticky#3718885

Tubing and Fittings


Tubing can be as generic as the hardware store vinyl tubing at your local Ace Hardware, Home Depot or Lowes or as complex as the Feser, Primochill, Masterkleer or Tygon brands you find online among other watercooling components. Your average hardware store vinyl tubing is typically thin walled and does not make tight radius bends well, while your premium brands are very flexible and come in most commonly used ID and OD tubing sizes for watercooling as well as in many colors. If you are needing some good bends made, consider getting good tubing, but understand most is upwards of $1.50-$2.50 per linear foot.

Fittings are one that cause a lot of confusion for most newcomers. Here is a simple way to understand the terminology that accompanys each:

I.D. - Inside diameter, most commonly referring to the ID of the tubing to be used. 1/2"ID means that wall to wall, the inside of the tubing measures 1/2" (metric is also used and is measured in millimeters or mm)

O.D.- Outside diameter, similar to the ID, the OD simply is the measurement of the tubing through the cross-section from one side of the outer wall to the other.

G1/4 - This is the one that confuses the most people. This refers to the threaded fitting standard that is used by almost all waterblocks and radiators. It is the end of the fitting that gets screwed into the block or rad; the other end of this same fitting is measured with the I.D. standard for tubing size. If you are unsure if the threaded fitting size is G1/4 double check before threading the fitting as you can easily cross thread a fitting that isn't using this standard.

Barbs- Barbs are very common and have been used as the primary fitting type in watercooling for many, many years. It offers a threaded end for connection to radiators, blocks and reservoirs and are typically G1/4, but other standard sizes have been used as well. Once the barb is threaded into the applicable port and secured, the tubing slides over the 'barbed' end which help secure the tubing, usually with some kind of clamp for extra precaution. You can also use a slightly larger barb size than tubing size for a more snug fit; ex. 7/16"ID tubing over a 1/2"ID barb. This will require you to dip the tubing ends in hot water to soften in order to slide them easily over the fitting end.

Compression Fittings - These fittings are actually the combination of a barb and a clamp into a fitting that secures the compression ring onto the fitting by threading it down. The threaded end of the fitting is installed as it is with a normal barb, and prior to pushing the tubing over the barb, ensure the threaded compression ring is slid over the tubing with the threads facing the correct way. Push the tubing over the barb and then slide the compression ring down over the barb and thread/secure to the fitting itself. This clamps and seals the tubing in place.

 

[omar80747326]

In someway in mean: when you read the specs of kit of fittings like bitspower the specs include just the od 16,14,12mm but nothing about the ID, so in this case it won't matter whatever was the tube ID was? In addition, why there are types of tubes and fittings are specifically made to used with each other just and not any another type, like some series of bitspower fittings are just made to use with bitspower rigid tubing only?!

 

[rubix_1011]

Barbs only have ID since there is not an OD requirement - that is simply the clamp.

Compression fittings should ALWAYS have ID/OD requirements because the collar must be able to thread securely over the outside of the tubing and create clamping/compression to secure it

Hardline tubing is specific only to hardline tubing - and I would follow the recommendation by the vendor on what is supported.

Also, normal compression fittings cannot be used for hardline tubing (or vice versa) as they clamp differently due to tubing sizes.

 

[dederedmi5plus]

example, a tube 10mm ID / 12mm OD = the inner 10mm tube goes to 10mm OD fitting's hole, because the tube OD is 12mm so it's compress by 12mm ID secure ring, so a 10/12 tube pair is 12mm fitting, when you plug tube to fitting, the barb will secure lock the tube by pressing outer tube's surface.

to avoid mixing wrong tube/fitting, again, source from single vendor, ask their CS guy, fittings are cheap, if you done your loop, replacing fitting will be easy chore.

Hard tube OD barb size sometime matters, some rad's inlet/outlet port too narrow make fittings nudge the fan, again, use part from single vendor.

 

[omar80747326]

So, I understood the importance of the bridging plug, it's useful when I fill the loop plugging it into the PSU but I'll just have to plug the pump's molex to the pump and start filling.

 

[rubix_1011]

Does it look similar to this:

Then yes, you would need to have the pump connected to either Molex or Sata power to make use.

Make sure the pump does not run empty or dry. If you connect this to the 24-pin ATX connector, it will automatically power on, so be prepared to either cycle PSU power switch, a normal power strip or get one that has an on/off toggle like this: