[COMPLETE] Build Log - Custom Liquid Cooling

Edit: Completed!
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Hello all,

It's time for me to do an upgrade to my system, and I'm going to do a build log. Feel free to post any suggestions for ideas as I go, your input is always appreciated. I will be doing hard-line PETG tubing. Part list as follows:

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PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel - Core i5-8600K 3.6GHz 6-Core Processor
Motherboard: Gigabyte - Z370 AORUS Ultra Gaming (rev. 1.0) ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
Memory: G.Skill - Trident Z RGB 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory
Video Card AORUS GeFo​rce GTX 10​80 Ti Wate​rforce WB ​Xtreme Edi​tion 11G
Storage: Samsung - 960 EVO 250GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive
Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Case: Phanteks - Enthoo EVOLV ATX ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G2 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply
Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-02-07 01:03 EST-0500

Deleted prices, as I'm in Japan and pricing is quite different here.

Notes on parts:

General
I love building systems with custom liquid cooling. That's my main goal here. I am not an aggressive overclocker. I'll be shooting for 4.8Ghz or so, nothing more than that. I do the loops for the look and for the fun of doing it as a hobby. The system will be using a 1440p monitor, and mainly be used for gaming.

Warning, this will be an RGB build. Lots of it. I don't really like computers that look like UFOs, but what I do like about RGB is that if you select neutral colored parts, you can then set your RGB colors to, for example, orange. And the entire system glows nice and sexy. My liquid cooling fluid will be silver, so whatever I set the RGB to should look good. Also, I have young kids who love gaming as well, and I am looking forward to how excited they are going to be when they get to mess around and change all the colors on the system.

i7 vs i5
Decided to go with the i5, as the hyperthreading of the i7 just doesn't help much with gaming performance. This is not a 'spend every dollar I have' build. I want each part to be justified.

GTX 1080Ti
One of the things you just have to accept when watercooling is, you are pretty much forced to get a top of the line GPU whether you need it or not. A 1070 would easily power my 1440p monitor, but waterblocks for a 1070 are hard to find. I ended up choosing an interesting card. The AORUS GTX 1080 Ti Waterforce WB Xtreme Edition 11G. It comes with a waterblock preinstalled from Gigabyte, plus it has RGB effects built into the card that work with the motherboard's software.
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Motherboard
This was a tough call. There are documented problems with the Ultra Gaming version I have chosen where the VRMs become extremely hot when stressed. The Gaming 7 motherboard would have been my ideal pick, however it is over $100 more than the one I have chosen. After coughing up the cash I had to for the GPU, I did my research and decided on this board. In the tests performed on this motherboard, and in the reviews, the general consensus is that if you are doing CPU intensive work, or want to do extreme overclocking, this is not the board to choose. However, for gaming there should be no issues with this board, especially as I am not an aggressive overclocker. I also really like the looks of this board.

PSU
I know 850W is overkill, but I already have this one from a previous system. It'll do the job nicely.

Case
I love the Evolv case. Very high quality build with radiator brackets that slide out. This is also from a previous build. To be honest, I don't think I would have bought it again. The front panel and top panel both limit how much air can come in/out. Vented panels would have been a better design. But I'm not expecting heat to be too much of an issue for me, as again, I don't go nuts for overclocking.

I'll post my liquid cooing parts next post. And I'll be continuing to post in here as I complete the build, step by step.
 
Parts for the custom loop will be as follows:
note: all parts are from a previous build

Radiators
XSPC EX360 up top
XSPC EX240 front
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Going to have to clean them up, but luckily the fans will hide them from view.

CPU block
RayStorm Pro Black
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Water Pump / Reservoir Combo
D5 Photon 170
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Radiator Fans
Thermaltake Riing Plus 12 Radiator Fan TT Premium Edition
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Syncs RGB with Fusion software on motherboard.

Cooling Fluid
PrimoChill Vue - Pre-Mix - Sterling Silver
https://www.primochill.com/products/primochill-vue-pre-mix-32oz-sterling-silver?variant=122216316944
Controversial, I know. There are risks to using this fluid. Some people report it breaking down and coating their parts after a few weeks, others report long periods without any issues. What can I say? I know the risks, and am going to go for it. I LOVE the look of the fluid. I have to have it. My precious! I'll probably end up draining and cleaning it every 6 months as a precaution, but it's something I'm willing to do.

Fittings
EK-HD Adapter 10/12mm - Nickel
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-hd-adapter-csq-10-12mm-nickel

Tubing
EK-HD Tube 10/12mm 500mm/19,5"
 
Before I install my liquid cooling parts, I always set up the system with air cooling first in order to test everything. Would suck to hook up all my liquid cooling tubes/fittings etc only to find I have a faulty part. I'll be using the system with my air cooler for a few days, as I wait for the Primochill Vue to be delivered. Should be here later this week.

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Small drop of thermal paste before I attach the air cooler to the CPU.
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Booted up first try! That calls for celebration! Beer!
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Updated bios, installed windows.
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Next update probably won't be for a few days, then I'll start installing the liquid loop.
 
Installed the front rad. Managed to fit the two SP120s on the front of the case. They fit nice and snug so the dust filter just barely snaps in. Ordered my parts for the drain port today. Wanted to make sure I do a good job this time around as I plan on draining and refilling often considering the fluid I'm using (Primochill Vue). Drain port will be down at the bottom of the front 240 Rad.

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The only problem is, no matter what height I put the rad/fans, there was no way to line up the screw holes so I could get all 8 screws in. The top fan only has 2 screws holding it. I'll see if I get vibration noises. If I do, I'll rethink things. Having the fans on the outer side of the mount gives me a few extra millimeters room for the drain setup so if I can I'd like to keep this as is.
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Looks like I will be without a gaming computer for at least 2 more days. Making two changes and waiting for parts.

I had the EK-HD fittings from a previous build. I was on EKs website last night and saw they have an updated version of those fittings, the EK-HDC. My previous ones were just push in, but these new ones are compression. I actually had a leak with my old ones once, luckily at the pump and nothing got damaged. Not worth the risk so I'm spending the money to get ten of these new fittings. Should be here in 2 days.

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Also, after doing more research, those In-win fans I ordered will not sync with Gigabyte fusion software it looks like. I will be using the Thermaltake Riing Plus 12 Radiator Fan TT Premium Edition instead. They arrived yesterday.

And finally, my drain port parts arrived.

Bitspower T-Block with triple IG1/4"
Bitspower BP-MVV-DWBK Mini-Valve - Deluxe White With Black Handle
TA G1/4 Comp Fitting ID3/8-OD1/2(GS) to attach a hose to
EK-HDC Fitting 12mm G1/4 - Black Nickel
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Edit: ran into the issue where if I tighten the drain setup in the pic above to the radiator, the T-block faces the wrong way. Ordered EK-AF Extender Rotary M-M G1/4 - Nickel so I can rotate it. Also ordered a EK-AF Angled 90° G1/4 Nickel for the drain port. Save myself a bend at the bottom of the rad, it's a tight fit in there.

Like I said, I want a GOOD drain this time around!
 
Another delay. I used scissor pipe cutters on my PETG tubing last time and they worked brilliantly. Not on this EK brand PETG though. Just shatters it! And I don't have a fine enough saw on hand for nice cuts, so... Amazon Prime! New saw arrives tomorrow.
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Alright, tubing is done. Well, almost done. There is one tube on the top left I'm not happy with and will redo tomorrow.
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Added some cleaner to the loop, and I'm going to let it run for 24 hours as a leak test and to let the cleaner do it's thing.
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That one bend is killing me... but I've done enough for today!
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Redid two of the bends, and like it much better. Still have to train the cables a little better. And I haven't decided on a color yet for the RGB, but looking good so far. Pretty happy with it!

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Going to load some games in and play for a bit, then I'll start messing around with some overclocking.
 
Working on my OC now. Have it at 4.8Ghz / 1.33V but Prime95 fails. I was told to set the AVX offset to -2 and try again, and that works. Not sure how much more I'll fiddle with it. It is running beautifully, no crashes/freezes in gaming or in the CPU-z stress test or in Aida64 at 4.8Ghz. AVX doesn't really get used, so I'm not so sure how useful Prime95 is as a test. If anyone has any input on this, I'd appreciate it. Temps are 65c max at these settings so I'm happy there.

Memory set to XMP
CPU clock ratio 48
CPU Vcore 1.33
Intel Speed Shift Technology disabled
CPU Enhanced Halt (C1E) disabled
C3 State Support disabled
C6/C7 State Support disabled
C8 State Support disabled
C10 State Support disabled
CPU Uncore ratio 45
Under chipset, I disabled VT-d

I knew this board didn't have the best power phase / heatsinks, but didn't need the best as I am not an aggressive overclocker. In Prime95 I get VRM temps of 95c. In Aida64 I only hit 80c. Acceptable.

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So.... yeah. Primochill Vue.

What can I say, I'm worried. So many people out there with problems. That plus the fact that it just doesn't look as good in my case as I thought. It looks amazing in the reservoir, love the effect, but the pipes just look cloudy. Maybe just the color I chose. But the bottom line is, I drained it today and went back to distilled water with EK Cryofuel clear.

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