Question Computer Black Screen + Fans 100 percent when gaming, but ran GPU stress test and went 30 minutes with no problems

[trueetoothetee1]

Cpu Ryzen 7 5800x

GPU Founders edition 2070 super

Ram G.Skill ripjaw 8 gb x2

Motherboard: Msi B450 Pro VDH

PSU

EVGA 100-N1-0650-L1, 650 N1, 650W,

recently updated and started happening when u turn the pc on, gives me 3 long beeps then restarts itself and runs perfectly fine, Ive run stress tests on gpu and cpu, ive reintalled all drivers. nothing fixed yet

 

[Darkbreeze]

The first thing you need to do, before ANYTHING else, is replace that EVGA N1 power supply. It's one of the absolute worst pieces of garbage that's ever been sold by a major well known brand, right up there with the Corsair VS and Thermaltake TR2 models. Not kidding when I say I've personally, on this forum alone, been apart of AT LEAST 75-100 threads where an N1 power supply, even brand new ones, were responsible for every problem the OP was having. Pure junk, no joke.

And if it ALSO has some miles on it, even more so. These are units that come with a 2 year warranty. A 2 year warranty? That's unheard of in this industry these days. Even craptastic junk by the likes of completely untrustworthy companies like Apevia, Aerocool, Raidmax and others have more faith in most of their units than that, coming with 3-5 year warranties, not to mention anything that's actually halfway DECENT having AT LEAST a 5-10 year warranty. That unit's own specifications decal states it's only capable of 624w on the +12v rail and we KNOW that basically ALL power supplies that can only support some number below their advertised capacity will be a unit better used as a door stop even if the actual claimed capacity is higher than the requirements of the system. Those type power supplies always have a number of OTHER problems, besides not being able to support the capacity that is advertised. I'd replace it with a better unit, first, and then worry about any problems that might remain after, after.

Also, it would be a very good idea to make sure you have the most current stable motherboard BIOS version installed.

As far as your "three beeps" are concerned, that would seem to indicate a memory issue and I suspect it's likely from your memory kit not being fully compatible with your motherboard. When you say "recently updated" are you talking about Windows or the BIOS?

Which slots do you have the memory installed in? What is the exact model of your memory kit? Do you have XMP/AMP enabled in the BIOS and is it ACTUALLY sticking to that or is it reconfiguring itself after it throws a memory error and restarts? Did you buy ONE kit with two sticks of memory in it or is it TWO sticks/kits that you bought separately and then put together, regardless of whether they are the same model or not?

 

[trueetoothetee1]

The first thing you need to do, before ANYTHING else, is replace that EVGA N1 power supply. It's one of the absolute worst pieces of garbage that's ever been sold by a major well known brand, right up there with the Corsair VS and Thermaltake TR2 models. Not kidding when I say I've personally, on this forum alone, been apart of AT LEAST 75-100 threads where an N1 power supply, even brand new ones, were responsible for every problem the OP was having. Pure junk, no joke.

And if it ALSO has some miles on it, even more so. These are units that come with a 2 year warranty. A 2 year warranty? That's unheard of in this industry these days. Even craptastic junk by the likes of completely untrustworthy companies like Apevia, Aerocool, Raidmax and others have more faith in most of their units than that, coming with 3-5 year warranties, not to mention anything that's actually halfway DECENT having AT LEAST a 5-10 year warranty. That unit's own specifications decal states it's only capable of 624w on the +12v rail and we KNOW that basically ALL power supplies that can only support some number below their advertised capacity will be a unit better used as a door stop even if the actual claimed capacity is higher than the requirements of the system. Those type power supplies always have a number of OTHER problems, besides not being able to support the capacity that is advertised. I'd replace it with a better unit, first, and then worry about any problems that might remain after, after.

Also, it would be a very good idea to make sure you have the most current stable motherboard BIOS version installed.

As far as your "three beeps" are concerned, that would seem to indicate a memory issue and I suspect it's likely from your memory kit not being fully compatible with your motherboard. When you say "recently updated" are you talking about Windows or the BIOS?

Which slots do you have the memory installed in? What is the exact model of your memory kit? Do you have XMP/AMP enabled in the BIOS and is it ACTUALLY sticking to that or is it reconfiguring itself after it throws a memory error and restarts? Did you buy ONE kit with two sticks of memory in it or is it TWO sticks/kits that you bought separately and then put together, regardless of whether they are the same model or not?

of course thank you for the reply, the memory i have is hte G.Skill Ripjaw V series 2400 mhz ddr4 they were bought in a 2 pack, the xmp is not enabled, windows was recently updated

 

[trueetoothetee1]

The first thing you need to do, before ANYTHING else, is replace that EVGA N1 power supply. It's one of the absolute worst pieces of garbage that's ever been sold by a major well known brand, right up there with the Corsair VS and Thermaltake TR2 models. Not kidding when I say I've personally, on this forum alone, been apart of AT LEAST 75-100 threads where an N1 power supply, even brand new ones, were responsible for every problem the OP was having. Pure junk, no joke.

And if it ALSO has some miles on it, even more so. These are units that come with a 2 year warranty. A 2 year warranty? That's unheard of in this industry these days. Even craptastic junk by the likes of completely untrustworthy companies like Apevia, Aerocool, Raidmax and others have more faith in most of their units than that, coming with 3-5 year warranties, not to mention anything that's actually halfway DECENT having AT LEAST a 5-10 year warranty. That unit's own specifications decal states it's only capable of 624w on the +12v rail and we KNOW that basically ALL power supplies that can only support some number below their advertised capacity will be a unit better used as a door stop even if the actual claimed capacity is higher than the requirements of the system. Those type power supplies always have a number of OTHER problems, besides not being able to support the capacity that is advertised. I'd replace it with a better unit, first, and then worry about any problems that might remain after, after.

Also, it would be a very good idea to make sure you have the most current stable motherboard BIOS version installed.

As far as your "three beeps" are concerned, that would seem to indicate a memory issue and I suspect it's likely from your memory kit not being fully compatible with your motherboard. When you say "recently updated" are you talking about Windows or the BIOS?

Which slots do you have the memory installed in? What is the exact model of your memory kit? Do you have XMP/AMP enabled in the BIOS and is it ACTUALLY sticking to that or is it reconfiguring itself after it throws a memory error and restarts? Did you buy ONE kit with two sticks of memory in it or is it TWO sticks/kits that you bought separately and then put together, regardless of whether they are the same model or not?

the error was occuring while trying to play league of legends/have discord open/microsoft edge youtube was up as well another time was when trying to play fortnite then again one day ago on startup of my pc the error happened
i have a video of the problem as well just not sure how to post it here. also my ram is in dimm slot 2 and dimm slot 4

 

[Darkbreeze]

Ok, so memory is in the correct slots. What is the currently installed motherboard BIOS version?

That is not the "model" of your memory kit. We need to know the actual model of the kit. You can find the model by downloading and running CPU-Z and then looking on the SPD tab. You will need to select either DIMM slot #2 or #4 so that it will populate the fields to the right. Report back with the model that is listed in the "Part number" field so we can determine if this is a compatibility issue or not.

Being as your memory is only 2400MT/s it likely does not have an XMP profile, so making sure the board has the latest BIOS version installed is the best way to ensure stability and compatibility. I doubt very highly that the Windows update has anything to do with the memory issue, but just to be sure it's not an actual physical memory issue it would be a good idea, after updating the BIOS, to run Memtest86 for four full passes.

Memtest86​

Go to the Passmark software website and download the USB Memtest86 free version. You can do the optical disk version too if for some reason you cannot use a bootable USB flash drive.


Create bootable media using the downloaded Memtest86. Once you have done that, go into your BIOS and configure the system to boot to the USB drive that contains the Memtest86 USB media or the optical drive if using that option.


You CAN use Memtest86+, as they've recently updated the program after MANY years of no updates, but for the purpose of this guide I recommend using the Passmark version as this is a tried and true utility while I've not had the opportunity to investigate the reliability of the latest 86+ release as compared to Memtest86. Possibly, consider using Memtest86+ as simply a secondary test to Memtest86, much as Windows memory diagnostic utility and Prime95 Blend or custom modes can be used for a second opinion utility.

Click here to download Memtest86 USB package​

Create a bootable USB Flash drive:

1. Download the Windows MemTest86 USB image.

2. Right click on the downloaded file and select the "Extract to Here" option. This places the USB image and imaging tool into the current folder.

3. Run the included imageUSB tool, it should already have the image file selected and you just need to choose which connected USB drive to turn into a bootable drive. Note that this will erase all data on the drive.


No memory should ever fail to pass Memtest86 when it is at the default configuration that the system sets it at when you start out or do a clear CMOS by removing the CMOS battery for five minutes.

Best method for testing memory is to first run four passes of Memtest86, all 11 tests, WITH the memory at the default configuration. This should be done BEFORE setting the memory to the XMP profile settings. The paid version has 13 tests but the free version only has tests 1-10 and test 13. So run full passes of all 11 tests. Be sure to download the latest version of Memtest86. Memtest86+ has not been updated in MANY years. It is NO-WISE as good as regular Memtest86 from Passmark software.

If there are ANY errors, at all, then the memory configuration is not stable. Bumping the DRAM voltage up slightly may resolve that OR you may need to make adjustments to the primary timings. There are very few secondary or tertiary timings that should be altered. I can tell you about those if you are trying to tighten your memory timings.

If you cannot pass Memtest86 with the memory at the XMP configuration settings then I would recommend restoring the memory to the default JEDEC SPD of 1333/2133mhz (Depending on your platform and memory type) with everything left on the auto/default configuration and running Memtest86 over again. If it completes the four full passes without error you can try again with the XMP settings but first try bumping the DRAM voltage up once again by whatever small increment the motherboard will allow you to increase it by. If it passes, great, move on to the Prime95 testing.

If it still fails, try once again bumping the voltage if you are still within the maximum allowable voltage for your memory type and test again. If it still fails, you are likely going to need more advanced help with configuring your primary timings and should return the memory to the default configuration until you can sort it out.

If the memory will not pass Memtest86 for four passes when it IS at the stock default non-XMP configuration, even after a minor bump in voltage, then there is likely something physically wrong with one or more of the memory modules and I'd recommend running Memtest on each individual module, separately, to determine which module is causing the issue. If you find a single module that is faulty you should contact the seller or the memory manufacturer and have them replace the memory as a SET. Memory comes matched for a reason as I made clear earlier and if you let them replace only one module rather than the entire set you are back to using unmatched memory which is an open door for problems with incompatible memory.

Be aware that you SHOULD run Memtest86 to test the memory at the default, non-XMP, non-custom profile settings BEFORE ever making any changes to the memory configuration so that you will know if the problem is a setting or is a physical problem with the memory.