Computer Cannot Boot

Aug 1, 2014
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4,510
I've had a homebuilt PC for about a year now with no issues at all. No freezes, crashes, or anything of the sort. The only problem I ever had was when I was actually building it: the mobo power cable was flimsy. However, I was able to secure it, and as mentioned had no issues.

Yesterday I tried to turn it on as usual, only to find it shutting down after a few seconds. The fans and lights turn on, but then it would shut down. I tried unplugging the power and trying again, and the same thing happened. I opened up the PC and tried to unplug and replug the mobo power cable which I mentioned. I tried to boot up again, but this time nothing turns on. No fans, lights, or anything.

What is going on? Is it an issue with the PSU, mobo, or did I just not connect the flimsy cable properly again? My PSU is the Corsair CX 600, using 8 GB of Corsair Vengeance DD3 ram, and I will try to get back to you with the exact mobo. Any help will be appreciated.
 


http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/261145-31-perform-steps-posting-post-boot-video-problems
Other than that info i can tell you those cx600 psu's play up like heaps and failure common especially in gamers/oc machines, i would definitely be trying another and yes they can power for a short time till a protect fault kicks in inside and shuts itself off. and yes it could run for awhile, months but the parts just gave out

Could you tell me what parts it powers through the pc, so i can figure how much power that pc uses ie graphics card and cpu model mainly
Actually i would swap it anyway it's tier 4 🙁 http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-2547993/psu-tier-list.html scroll down you will find yours in tier 4, read explanation for this tier .. read this, especially the guy at the bottom http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-2109845/corsair-cx600m-bad-quality-psu.html
 
Sounds very much like the dodgy connector to the motherboard. It is a Molex connector and the individual pins often don't seat properly. If you have a small enough screwdriver (before switching on) try pushing down each pin inside the connector, may save buying another PSU. There is on the market a small test unit, about 2" by 3" by .5" (shows my age) which plugs into the main PSU lead, it feeds back a power good signal to the PSU and indicates all working outputs without the need of a motherboard. Cheap enough to be worth having.