[SOLVED] Computer freezes on a 1st and 2nd boot.

Orgazia

Distinguished
Nov 19, 2007
75
6
18,535
I have had this problem for a while now. When I shut the PC off for a day and try to boot it, it freezes past the BIOS loading screen. On a second boot, it would freeze on the Windows log-in screen. On a 3rd boot, it works fine.

Here are the specs:

CPU - AMD Ryzen 5 3600
Motherboard - MSI B450 Gaming Plus Max
RAM - G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 16GB DDR4 3600MHz CL16 Dual Channel Kit (2 x 8GB)
GPU - AMD Radeon RX 5600XT
Power Supply - Cooler Master V550 Gold Semi-Fanless Modular 80+ Gold Power Supply, 550W
Boot Drive - Western Digital Blue SN550 M.2 PCI-E NVMe SSD, 500GB
OS - Windows 11

Things that I have tried so far:
  • Updated BIOS
  • Updated all the drivers
  • Turned off fast boot
  • Changed HDMI cable
  • Disconnected the above parts and reconnected it all.
  • Ran a Windows Memory Diagnostic.
Thank you in advance!
 
Last edited:
Solution
So, it's not really "at a loss", it actually tells us quite a bit.

If you feel prepared to do so I would recommend that you go into the advanced memory section of the BIOS and bump up the DRAM voltage by .005v or whatever increment that is closest to that which it will allow you to. It might be slightly larger or smaller. Small increments is the key. You do not want to increase the DRAM voltage (DRAM=RAM/Memory) any more than absolutely necessary to ensure stability. Your random failure to POST is likely due to the system occasionally seeing problems with the auto memory configuration for the secondary and tertiary timings because of an insufficient amount of DRAM voltage with four DIMMs installed. While many kits might say something...
Great that you ran a Windows memory diagnostic, but now lets take it a step further to try and mostly eliminate the memory as the problem and run Memtest. Out of curiosity, are you running a Windows 11 installation that was an upgrade from 10 rather than a clean install of Windows 11?


Memtest86


Go to the Passmark software website and download the USB Memtest86 free version. You can do the optical disk version too if for some reason you cannot use a bootable USB flash drive.


Create bootable media using the downloaded Memtest86. Once you have done that, go into your BIOS and configure the system to boot to the USB drive that contains the Memtest86 USB media or the optical drive if using that option.


You CAN use Memtest86+, as they've recently updated the program after MANY years of no updates, but for the purpose of this guide I recommend using the Passmark version as this is a tried and true utility while I've not had the opportunity to investigate the reliability of the latest 86+ release as compared to Memtest86. Possibly, consider using Memtest86+ as simply a secondary test to Memtest86, much as Windows memory diagnostic utility and Prime95 Blend or custom modes can be used for a second opinion utility.


Create a bootable USB Flash drive:

1. Download the Windows MemTest86 USB image.

2. Right click on the downloaded file and select the "Extract to Here" option. This places the USB image and imaging tool into the current folder.

3. Run the included imageUSB tool, it should already have the image file selected and you just need to choose which connected USB drive to turn into a bootable drive. Note that this will erase all data on the drive.



No memory should ever fail to pass Memtest86 when it is at the default configuration that the system sets it at when you start out or do a clear CMOS by removing the CMOS battery for five minutes.

Best method for testing memory is to first run four passes of Memtest86, all 11 tests, WITH the memory at the default configuration. This should be done BEFORE setting the memory to the XMP profile settings. The paid version has 13 tests but the free version only has tests 1-10 and test 13. So run full passes of all 11 tests. Be sure to download the latest version of Memtest86. Memtest86+ has not been updated in MANY years. It is NO-WISE as good as regular Memtest86 from Passmark software.

If there are ANY errors, at all, then the memory configuration is not stable. Bumping the DRAM voltage up slightly may resolve that OR you may need to make adjustments to the primary timings. There are very few secondary or tertiary timings that should be altered. I can tell you about those if you are trying to tighten your memory timings.

If you cannot pass Memtest86 with the memory at the XMP configuration settings then I would recommend restoring the memory to the default JEDEC SPD of 1333/2133mhz (Depending on your platform and memory type) with everything left on the auto/default configuration and running Memtest86 over again. If it completes the four full passes without error you can try again with the XMP settings but first try bumping the DRAM voltage up once again by whatever small increment the motherboard will allow you to increase it by. If it passes, great, move on to the Prime95 testing.

If it still fails, try once again bumping the voltage if you are still within the maximum allowable voltage for your memory type and test again. If it still fails, you are likely going to need more advanced help with configuring your primary timings and should return the memory to the default configuration until you can sort it out.

If the memory will not pass Memtest86 for four passes when it IS at the stock default non-XMP configuration, even after a minor bump in voltage, then there is likely something physically wrong with one or more of the memory modules and I'd recommend running Memtest on each individual module, separately, to determine which module is causing the issue. If you find a single module that is faulty you should contact the seller or the memory manufacturer and have them replace the memory as a SET. Memory comes matched for a reason as I made clear earlier and if you let them replace only one module rather than the entire set you are back to using unmatched memory which is an open door for problems with incompatible memory.

Be aware that you SHOULD run Memtest86 to test the memory at the default, non-XMP, non-custom profile settings BEFORE ever making any changes to the memory configuration so that you will know if the problem is a setting or is a physical problem with the memory.
 

Orgazia

Distinguished
Nov 19, 2007
75
6
18,535
Great that you ran a Windows memory diagnostic, but now lets take it a step further to try and mostly eliminate the memory as the problem and run Memtest. Out of curiosity, are you running a Windows 11 installation that was an upgrade from 10 rather than a clean install of Windows 11?


Memtest86


Go to the Passmark software website and download the USB Memtest86 free version. You can do the optical disk version too if for some reason you cannot use a bootable USB flash drive.


Create bootable media using the downloaded Memtest86. Once you have done that, go into your BIOS and configure the system to boot to the USB drive that contains the Memtest86 USB media or the optical drive if using that option.


You CAN use Memtest86+, as they've recently updated the program after MANY years of no updates, but for the purpose of this guide I recommend using the Passmark version as this is a tried and true utility while I've not had the opportunity to investigate the reliability of the latest 86+ release as compared to Memtest86. Possibly, consider using Memtest86+ as simply a secondary test to Memtest86, much as Windows memory diagnostic utility and Prime95 Blend or custom modes can be used for a second opinion utility.


Create a bootable USB Flash drive:

1. Download the Windows MemTest86 USB image.

2. Right click on the downloaded file and select the "Extract to Here" option. This places the USB image and imaging tool into the current folder.

3. Run the included imageUSB tool, it should already have the image file selected and you just need to choose which connected USB drive to turn into a bootable drive. Note that this will erase all data on the drive.



No memory should ever fail to pass Memtest86 when it is at the default configuration that the system sets it at when you start out or do a clear CMOS by removing the CMOS battery for five minutes.

Best method for testing memory is to first run four passes of Memtest86, all 11 tests, WITH the memory at the default configuration. This should be done BEFORE setting the memory to the XMP profile settings. The paid version has 13 tests but the free version only has tests 1-10 and test 13. So run full passes of all 11 tests. Be sure to download the latest version of Memtest86. Memtest86+ has not been updated in MANY years. It is NO-WISE as good as regular Memtest86 from Passmark software.

If there are ANY errors, at all, then the memory configuration is not stable. Bumping the DRAM voltage up slightly may resolve that OR you may need to make adjustments to the primary timings. There are very few secondary or tertiary timings that should be altered. I can tell you about those if you are trying to tighten your memory timings.

If you cannot pass Memtest86 with the memory at the XMP configuration settings then I would recommend restoring the memory to the default JEDEC SPD of 1333/2133mhz (Depending on your platform and memory type) with everything left on the auto/default configuration and running Memtest86 over again. If it completes the four full passes without error you can try again with the XMP settings but first try bumping the DRAM voltage up once again by whatever small increment the motherboard will allow you to increase it by. If it passes, great, move on to the Prime95 testing.

If it still fails, try once again bumping the voltage if you are still within the maximum allowable voltage for your memory type and test again. If it still fails, you are likely going to need more advanced help with configuring your primary timings and should return the memory to the default configuration until you can sort it out.

If the memory will not pass Memtest86 for four passes when it IS at the stock default non-XMP configuration, even after a minor bump in voltage, then there is likely something physically wrong with one or more of the memory modules and I'd recommend running Memtest on each individual module, separately, to determine which module is causing the issue. If you find a single module that is faulty you should contact the seller or the memory manufacturer and have them replace the memory as a SET. Memory comes matched for a reason as I made clear earlier and if you let them replace only one module rather than the entire set you are back to using unmatched memory which is an open door for problems with incompatible memory.

Be aware that you SHOULD run Memtest86 to test the memory at the default, non-XMP, non-custom profile settings BEFORE ever making any changes to the memory configuration so that you will know if the problem is a setting or is a physical problem with the memory.

I updated from windows 10 to 11.

Will g.skill replace a memory stick if it's defective even though it's been like 2.5 years ?
 

Orgazia

Distinguished
Nov 19, 2007
75
6
18,535
Almost all memory manufacturers offer a lifetime warranty on RAM so long as you have some form of purchase documentation or invoice.

Hey there, so I ran the test with Memtest86 with 4 ram sticks ( I made a mistake in the specs. I had 4 of the same and not 2). The test failed. So I ran each stick individually to determine which one was faulty and individually each ram stick passed the test. So I'm at lost again.

I set the bios settings to default prior to testing, to play it safe.
 
So, it's not really "at a loss", it actually tells us quite a bit.

If you feel prepared to do so I would recommend that you go into the advanced memory section of the BIOS and bump up the DRAM voltage by .005v or whatever increment that is closest to that which it will allow you to. It might be slightly larger or smaller. Small increments is the key. You do not want to increase the DRAM voltage (DRAM=RAM/Memory) any more than absolutely necessary to ensure stability. Your random failure to POST is likely due to the system occasionally seeing problems with the auto memory configuration for the secondary and tertiary timings because of an insufficient amount of DRAM voltage with four DIMMs installed. While many kits might say something like "1.35v" they are USUALLY referring to configurations with only two DIMMs installed. Anytime you install four DIMMs, it becomes much more stressful for the memory controller and a slight bump in the CPU frequency (Overclock) or DRAM voltage is often necessary to get it to work properly.

If you are uneasy doing this, then I'd suggest a few different options.

One, get rid of the four DIMM kit and buy a different kit with the same total capacity but with only TWO DIMMs, and install them in the A2 and B2 slots.

Two, as an alternative, take it to a shop that has an experienced technician that is NOT uncomfortable with bumping up the DRAM voltage to see if it can be made more stable.

Three, remove the two DIMMs installed in the A1 and B1 slots, to see if the problem goes away, without making any changes to the DRAM configuration in the BIOS, so that you will know for certain the problem exists because of the presence of four DIMMs rather than two.
 
Solution

Orgazia

Distinguished
Nov 19, 2007
75
6
18,535
So, it's not really "at a loss", it actually tells us quite a bit.

If you feel prepared to do so I would recommend that you go into the advanced memory section of the BIOS and bump up the DRAM voltage by .005v or whatever increment that is closest to that which it will allow you to. It might be slightly larger or smaller. Small increments is the key. You do not want to increase the DRAM voltage (DRAM=RAM/Memory) any more than absolutely necessary to ensure stability. Your random failure to POST is likely due to the system occasionally seeing problems with the auto memory configuration for the secondary and tertiary timings because of an insufficient amount of DRAM voltage with four DIMMs installed. While many kits might say something like "1.35v" they are USUALLY referring to configurations with only two DIMMs installed. Anytime you install four DIMMs, it becomes much more stressful for the memory controller and a slight bump in the CPU frequency (Overclock) or DRAM voltage is often necessary to get it to work properly.

If you are uneasy doing this, then I'd suggest a few different options.

One, get rid of the four DIMM kit and buy a different kit with the same total capacity but with only TWO DIMMs, and install them in the A2 and B2 slots.

Two, as an alternative, take it to a shop that has an experienced technician that is NOT uncomfortable with bumping up the DRAM voltage to see if it can be made more stable.

Three, remove the two DIMMs installed in the A1 and B1 slots, to see if the problem goes away, without making any changes to the DRAM configuration in the BIOS, so that you will know for certain the problem exists because of the presence of four DIMMs rather than two.
Messed around with the voltages and so far, knock on wood. Thank you! You're a life saver !
 
This might help you to gain a better understanding and give you some additional insights should you need them. It also might guide you into looking into even more advanced concepts later on, but even if not, probably worth reading given your situation.

 
  • Like
Reactions: Orgazia