Question Computer lights and fans go on for 1 second when i press the power button.

Mar 11, 2019
31
0
30
Best answers
0
The night before i experienced this problem, I shut down my computer normally and did not force it in any way. The next morning i switched it on and it had no display. I reseated the RAM and the CMOS but then as soon as i pressed the power button, the compenents went on for almost a second before going off and it did this everytime i pressed the power button, I switched out the PSU and the power cable, only to be sitting with the same problem. I have completely run out of options on what to do, the components are only 3 months old.
 
Mar 11, 2019
31
0
30
Best answers
0
CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 1600X
Cooler: CoolerMaster Hyper 212 LED
SSD: Transcend 110S 128GB M.2 NVMe
RAM: HyperX Predator RGB 8GB DDR4 3200MHz
GPU: Nvidia GeForce GTX 1050 2GB
Motherboard: ASUS Prime A320M-K
PSU: Raidmax RX-530SS
 

Barty1884

Titan
Moderator
Apr 16, 2015
18,177
310
84,540
Best answers
4,063
What PSU did you switch out from/to?

The RX-530SS is a poor quality unit, IIRC - Raidmax don't really have anything better than mediocre.

That is odd though, that a CMOS reset hasn't got you at least up and running.
Just thinking out loud here, but I wonder if the VRMs on that lower-end board have degraded from overheating/running outside of spec....
Have you noticed any throttling of your CPU clock speeds recently?
 
Mar 11, 2019
31
0
30
Best answers
0
At first i had the Proline IP-S600AQ3-0

I never touched anything in the BIOS having to do with the CPU, only enabled XMP. The only thing I had overclocked was the GPU and I also tried to switch it out, no difference. When i leave the power cable out for one night and try it the next morning it boots to windows logon then shuts down. I have never had this type of problem.
 

Barty1884

Titan
Moderator
Apr 16, 2015
18,177
310
84,540
Best answers
4,063
Wow. While the Raidmax is certainly a step up over that Proline junk, I'd still be inclined to look at it as the problem component here (or, as mentioned, potentially the VRM/board).

If the system is fully shutting down, it's either a power or a heat concern.
 
Mar 11, 2019
31
0
30
Best answers
0
So what would you suggest I do to fix this problem. I never fiddled around with any CPU settings so I don't know if that could be the problem. The temps of the CPU never went past 80°C. I already tried 2 psu's.

EDIT: Both psu's works properly in other systems with no problem.
 

Barty1884

Titan
Moderator
Apr 16, 2015
18,177
310
84,540
Best answers
4,063
Two PSUs, where one was never likely to be adequate, and the other was borderline at best.

Honestly, assuming you've cleared the CMOS, checked other power outlets to rule out that possibility, then you're really left with swapping hardware (PSU and potentially motherboard).
 
Mar 11, 2019
31
0
30
Best answers
0
The proline PSU worked fine for a month with no problems, until I normally shut it down once and tried to boot it back up the next morning. I have no way of testing another motherboard.


I tried removing hdd and gpu's power

I pulled out the power cable and put it back in after 10 minutes, now the computer stays on but has no display, previously it would not shut down if I held the power button but now it does, I tried resetting the CMOS again with no hope.

The computer now starts without struggling with power. But the display is still not coming on and the mouse and keyboard are not responding. Please help this is really urgent

If I can get into the bios settings, is there anything I can do?
 

Barty1884

Titan
Moderator
Apr 16, 2015
18,177
310
84,540
Best answers
4,063
@Melktert15 Please refrain from spamming the thread - if you have more to add, please update a prior post.

I appreciate it is urgent, but at this stage, short of changing out hardware, this isn't going to miraculously fix itself.

To me, it sounds like your PSU is not capable of adequately powering the hardware. The requirements to run a fan etc is minimal, relatively speaking. It does not sound like your GPU is being adequately powered, hence no display out.
 

jamesanyoung

Honorable
Aug 26, 2013
216
6
10,715
Best answers
5
The computer now starts without struggling with power. But the display is still not coming on and the mouse and keyboard are not responding. Please help this is really urgent
Melktert15 might be right, but I have another thought. Although It is starting to sound like you may have a faulty motherboard, before we go down that route, I suggest you pull all the cable from the case, open up both panels and give the case a thorough clean out with compressed air.

This will do a few things for the PC including improving air flow and reducing static build up and temperatures.

When you put the machine back together, make sure that no cables are rubbing up against the back of the motherboard.

If this does work, you should also considering replacing the PSU to a reputable 650W down the road.
 

Barty1884

Titan
Moderator
Apr 16, 2015
18,177
310
84,540
Best answers
4,063
Everything worked properly and the next morning not, which makes no sense at all.
While it might not sound logical... for it to make sense in this scenario, everything would have to still be working fine, right?
Clearly it's not, so something went wrong. Looking at the specs, the logical places to look are the PSU and motherboard.

Do as @jamesanyoung suggested first - a thorough cleaning. Personally, I don't think it's going to do anything - but better to try the free option first.

Although It is starting to sound like you may have a faulty motherboard
Board is a possibility, but I would expect that the system would've expected symptoms beforehand.

If this does work, you should also considering replacing the PSU to a reputable 650W down the road.
A 650W unit would be overkill here. A quality, reliable 450W would be more than adequate for a 1600X + 1050 setup.

The company said I can send back the motherboard to test it, but i first want to pin point that it is indeed the motherboard.
Short of switching out components for known, working equivalents, there's no way to definitively rule it in/out in it's current status.
 
Mar 11, 2019
31
0
30
Best answers
0
The current PSU is 530W and is only connected in 4 places, the HDD, the CPU, The 24PIN and the 6pin for the GPU. Nothing at all looks full of dust since its not even 3 months old.
 

Barty1884

Titan
Moderator
Apr 16, 2015
18,177
310
84,540
Best answers
4,063
The current PSU is 530W and is only connected in 4 places, the HDD, the CPU, The 24PIN and the 6pin for the GPU. Nothing at all looks full of dust since its not even 3 months old.
That's what the label says but, from memory Raidmax don't state the combined 12V output max
There's absolutely no chance I'd expect that unit to do >300W reliably, if that.

I think it's safe to say it's the board, or the PSU. Not saying it can't be anything else but, given the relative quality of your system specs otherwise, the PSU strikes me as the most logical culprit.

An interesting note - that PSU has been around since ~2013. It took until 2017 to have it tested for 80+ compliance. Not that efficiency is the be-all, end-all, but interesting none the less.
https://www.plugloadsolutions.com/80PlusPowerSuppliesDetail.aspx?id=104&type=2

But isnt it true that PSU's operate most effectively at about 50-80% power draw?
Not effectively, efficiently. And yes, as per 80+ spec, a PSU will be most efficient at 50% of it's rated capacity.
The thing is, between a 1600X (95W) and a 1050 (75W), those numbers are so low that #1 efficiency is almost a moot point & #2, peak efficiency (50%) would only really be obtained on a ~350W PSU, of which there are very few viable options.

Why does the computer then boot for a few seconds when i leave it off for an entire night?
That, I'm not sure about. A pure guess here, but perhaps it;s discharging the residual power from the capacitors overnight & you're truly starting from an outright 'cold' boot in the morning. I'm not sure though.
 

Barty1884

Titan
Moderator
Apr 16, 2015
18,177
310
84,540
Best answers
4,063
Some are. You've owned two of them.

They're not going to let you do it, no. But if you have a local computer store, they may well diagnose the problem for you for free if you buy the necessary replacement parts from them.
Equally, they may charge a fee for diagnostics. They'll have known, working motherboards & PSUs they can test with to rule a component in/out.

If you don't have the money (or simply don't want to spend it) to replace a component or potentially 2, then a local store would be a good place to start.
At least you'll know the exact problem component at that stage. If it does turn out to be the PSU though, just don't get drawn into buying another junk unit.

Doesn't have to be anything fancy or particularly expensive. Corsair's CX450 or CX550 are well priced in a lot of regions. In others, older units (but quality) like SeaSonic S12II's are usually relatively economical.
 

ASK THE COMMUNITY

TRENDING THREADS