Computer not launching on cold boot?

[Extended Bacon]

So I've tried to read up on this problem on other threads but all of the ones I have noticed seem different in one way or another to my problem.

Basically, when I first put together the computer, it was working fine, but it would seem in the past couple months or so, I have had this problem. If power is lost or the computer is unplugged from the wall, or just generally the residual power is lost from the mobo, the computer simply doesn't boot when pugged back in. No fans, no lights, nothing. Perhaps the only symptom that does show that power is in fact getting to the mobo is that it starts to heat up in the corner of the power button (and in fact, if left long enough, turn scalding hot), and that some of my peripherals led's turn on, though this is always the case with the led's regardless (Hence I usually unplug them).

I have tried any and every combination of the on off switch, the power outlet and the on button (both on the mobo and the case) as you can think of, have tried clearing the CMOS, to no avail. Checked for burst capacitors on the mobo, they all seem to be in perfectly good shape. This has happened two times before, and both times the computer just turned on after numerous tries even though nothing was different than all the other attempts before it. It might also be notable to point out, that, while it might just be me, it seems the periods of this issue become longer each time).

Any help greatly appreciated, Thanks.

 

[1LiquidPC]

What power supply do you have?

 

[Vic 40]

Also change the motherboard battery to a new one.

 

[Extended Bacon]

I have a "cooler power" gx850 (not listed on 80 plus, think it might be trying to sound like cooler master). I got it I think about a year and a half ago from now?

As for the battery, unfortunately I don't have a new one on hand, so that'll be on order.

 

[1LiquidPC]

You might want to try another PSU w/ a reputable brand. An "off brand" can be the source of all kinds of odd behavior. Here's a link that you can see your PSU info from a small review. http://www.hardwareinsights.com/wp/the-2013-el-cheapo-power-supply-roundup/6/

 

[Extended Bacon]

I am actually really confused right now as I rechecked it, and there is a different brand icon to the one in the link you sent me, and the model is "p4n9-n", and that translates to the gx850 model, yet still, there is a different icon, and to me that seems just as dodgy if not dodgier

 

[1LiquidPC]

Probably another reason you may want to replace. No reason to risk your other components.

 

[Extended Bacon]

Probably another reason you may want to replace. No reason to risk your other components.

Yeah I think that would be best, however I am not really that well experienced in terms of good power supply brands/models/etc. any ideas? My build is as follows:

Motherboard: ASRock Z97 Extreme4
CPU: Intel i7 4790 (w/ stock fan)
GPU: EVGA Geforce GTX 760 w/ ACX cooling
Drives: x1 Samsung evo 850 ssd 128 gb, x1 Seagate barracuda 2tb
Case: Corsair Obsidian 750d
RAM: 8gb Kingstod DDR3 (have forgotten the model off the top of my head)
PSU as listed

Remind me if I forgot anything as I usually do

What do you think would be my best decision in terms of purchases?

 

[1LiquidPC]

Here is the PSU Tier list http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-2547993/psu-tier-list.html. I've had good experience w/ Corsair, Seasonic, and PCP&C, though the latter got bought out awhile back. A solid 600W would be plenty of power for your setup w/ some room to grow for future upgrades.

 

[Extended Bacon]

Hello again,

I went ahead and took your advice with a new psu, but unfortunately the same results. Frankly I'm quite frustrated with myself because I went ahead and bought a new one (EVGA supernova g2 750W) without due course, so that's extremely annoying. Other than that I did test the cos
battery by getti one out of a known functioning computer. While the one from there didn't change anything, what's interesting is that I put the original computers one in to the one I took the test one from, and it wouldn't launch, all it would do was boot up with lights on for half a second, and then bam, it won't turn on again until I flip the psu switch again. Those are the only changes. So basically psu is apparently not the problem (I may have missed something but that's the way I understand it so far), and I'm $150 poorer. Any ideas left anyone? I still need help, and now I'm just quite annoyed with myself.

 

[1LiquidPC]

Ok. Well, you narrowed down the PSU not being the problem. My other concern from you original post is the power button getting hot. Is this still happening? If so, I'd recheck all your connections again. Are you referring to the case power button, or does your motherboard have it's own power button? I'd be concerned of a short somewhere, something slowly melting, or possibly a motherboard problem next.

 

[Extended Bacon]

When I say the power button, I'm referring to the button on the motherboard, the case doesn't heat up at all. However it's not just the power button, its all the area around the board, and if left on long enough the heat will slowly warm up towards the cpu (if you saw the design of the motherboard, the power button is on the bottom right and the cpu is towards the top). I'll double check all the connections, however I find this difficult to believe given that I have just installed this psu and I made sure all the wiring was adequately attached, and even if something was loose, wouldn't it still function with just the motherboard and cpu installed properly? Before I go ahead and breadboard the parts, do you have any ideas I could try?

 

[1LiquidPC]

Just got back to your post. Did you try the breadboard method? I still don't think your board should be getting to hot to touch regardless. If it still occurs using the breadboard test, I'd be leaning to something going wrong w/ your board. Also, when removing the board, take a look at the solder joints on bottom of the board. Make sure there's no black marks, or odd smells anywhere. It could be that a part somewhere is getting hot causing odd faults. Although much less common, solid capacitors can go bad as well, even though their lifespan is typically much longer.

 

[Extended Bacon]

Alright, so since my motherboard had a warranty, I figured I would pull it out and send it in for testing. Turns out, that was the problem (I didn't find out what was wrong with the motherboard exactly, so I guess we'll never know). So they offer me a refurbished one, I take it home, plug it in, and it works good as new!
Anyway thanks for your help I suppose, I think it still was important to replace that dodgy PSU of mine to prevent any future damage, so yeah.

Thanks!

 

[1LiquidPC]

Glad you got it sorted out I was pretty much out of ideas other than the board itself as I still didn't think it should be getting hot like it did. I'm hoping the new one doesn't. Plus, as you mentioned, your better off w/ a quality PSU as well, not worth the risk to your PC components.