computer restarting trying to do a clean install

[ddobsonsr]

I replaced my sons mother board with a asrock z77 extreme4 im trying to do a clean install on a new ssd his old one just wont boot every time it gets to the windows icon screen it restarts and im getting no where his set up is this, i7 cpu 600 watt psu 2 corsair xms3 1*4, new pny ssd on board video i have disconnected everything but the optic and ssd drive

 

[Guest]

are you trying to boot the old windows copy up first or loading windows from disc for fresh install ???

 

[bgunner]

My understanding of the situation is that the SSD is new/wiped and the OS is being installed. Once the disk runs and transfers teh files to start with you get a windows logo. This is where the PC restarts. Am I correct in this?

If so then it is a hardware issue, most likely a BIOS setting causing the PC to shut down and restart. Many times this is a ram issue. To test if it is the ram Download Memtest86+ and put it on a disk or flashdrive and run it as the boot device. This is not to say that the ram is the issue but how to check. Also be sure all the voltages are set correctly for that system.

 

[Guest]

open bios set bios to default then change boot settings for optical then ssd

 

[ddobsonsr]

i will run the memory test its a fresh install fingers crossed

 

[ddobsonsr]

memory test ran great for shits and giggles i use a old xp disk and got pretty far on install this morning one day it will work if anyone has thoughts im all ears

 

[bgunner]

Since the ram tested good then you are on to a bad BIOS setting. Just setting to default is not always the best settings for the PC. Some times you need to ad voltage to components for them to stabilize. Some times it is the north bridge (AMD) or Intel's new version of, CPU voltage, Ram voltage, HDD/SSD Settings (Set to AHCI mode) or various other settings.

you could also try the SSD in a different machine to test it it works properly.

EDIT: As an after thought, because I never asked, the copy of windows you are using, is it a Windows original disk or one that you downloaded and burnt to CD?

 

[ddobsonsr]

are you trying to boot the old windows copy up first or loading windows from disc for fresh install ???

 

[ddobsonsr]

fresh install

 

[ddobsonsr]

Since the ram tested good then you are on to a bad BIOS setting. Just setting to default is not always the best settings for the PC. Some times you need to ad voltage to components for them to stabilize. Some times it is the north bridge (AMD) or Intel's new version of, CPU voltage, Ram voltage, HDD/SSD Settings (Set to AHCI mode) or various other settings.

you could also try the SSD in a different machine to test it it works properly.

EDIT: As an after thought, because I never asked, the copy of windows you are using, is it a Windows original disk or one that you downloaded and burnt to CD?

 

[ddobsonsr]

i have tried both the oem disk as it where is in ruff shape to the point i dont know if it came with his pc our his moms and i have tried to down load of of TPB

 

[ddobsonsr]

as far as voltage goes i believe the mobo is set to auto? but in the bios the voltage readings look good not all to sure yet just how much power the cpu needs have to look that up. as of now the ssd is being formatted in a different machine asrocks hand book says to change sata mode select to ide, for sata 2_2 to2_5 and sata3_0-3_1 and set "asmedia sata3 mode to ide for sata3_a0and sata2_a1 but having trouble changing our getting to those to change them independently

 

[bgunner]

ssd's need to be in AHCI mode for them to work properly and have garbage collection done properly in the OS.


EDIT: HDD's also work better in AHCI mode. trhis enables options like smart sensors and hot swapping drives among other things.

 

[Guest]

i have tried both the oem disk as it where is in ruff shape to the point i dont know if it came with his pc our his moms and i have tried to down load of of TPB

is your optical drive on the sata conns ?

how many sata ports you got - if 6 only 2 will be ide or boot from master & slave ?

one colour of them is raid only & the other colour is ide achi ect, so plug it in to other side then change in bios but it may auto select you drive

 

[bgunner]

i have tried both the oem disk as it where is in ruff shape to the point i dont know if it came with his pc our his moms and i have tried to down load of of TPB

get your download of windows from here and use this as the Software install. https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows7

 

[ddobsonsr]

i have tried both the oem disk as it where is in ruff shape to the point i dont know if it came with his pc our his moms and i have tried to down load of of TPB

get your download of windows from here and use this as the Software install. https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows7

 

[ddobsonsr]

i tried that download and it would not take the product key that came with the system

 

[ddobsonsr]

i have tried both the oem disk as it where is in ruff shape to the point i dont know if it came with his pc our his moms and i have tried to down load of of TPB

is your optical drive on the sata conns ?

how many sata ports you got - if 6 only 2 will be ide or boot from master & slave ?

one colour of them is raid only & the other colour is ide achi ect, so plug it in to other side then change in bios but it may auto select you drive

 

[ddobsonsr]

i will have to go back and just unplug grab the book and replug my cables the optic is sata i did get to a point on a xp install attemp that said it was missing the i 386 file or something 86 file

 

[bgunner]

i tried that download and it would not take the product key that came with the system

If you have a retail code for a Win 7 OS then you can down load from that link. The Key at this point is not really relevant since it just verifies you have a product key to allow the download. The key matters when you actuall install it on the machine, it will ask for it there.

ATTENTION: you are trying to use what is called an OEM product key on a non OEM motherboard. the key Will Not authenticate with that motherboard since OEM codes are tied to motherboards. Now you can try to call Microsoft when it fails to verify authenticity of the OS and try and explain the board went bad and you need to change it. Sometimes they will grant a new product code for that motherboard and sometimes not. It is a crap shoot on the chances. So just be warned that the OS will not validate and become Genuine using the original OEM key and you will need to call Microsoft and talk to a tech.

 

[ddobsonsr]

i tried that download and it would not take the product key that came with the system

If you have a retail code for a Win 7 OS then you can down load from that link. The Key at this point is not really relevant since it just verifies you have a product key to allow the download. The key matters when you actuall install it on the machine, it will ask for it there.

ATTENTION: you are trying to use what is called an OEM product key on a non OEM motherboard. the key Will Not authenticate with that motherboard since OEM codes are tied to motherboards. Now you can try to call Microsoft when it fails to verify authenticity of the OS and try and explain the board went bad and you need to change it. Sometimes they will grant a new product code for that motherboard and sometimes not. It is a crap shoot on the chances. So just be warned that the OS will not validate and become Genuine using the original OEM key and you will need to call Microsoft and talk to a tech.

 

[ddobsonsr]

i put my key in it ask for it before it would let medown load and i was denied but i will try again

 

[ddobsonsr]

you guys are great i want to say thank you this pc was one of the thing my son took great pride in

 

[ddobsonsr]

i wish i could get some one from Microsoft on the line i cant even find a number to call

 

[bgunner]

i put my key in it ask for it before it would let medown load and i was denied but i will try again

If you are denied again it will be because you have a OEM key code and not retail. OEM codes will work with retail disks, that main difference is the Key code limits how many machines the code can be used on.

Maybe you know someone that has a disk you could borrow? you don't need there code just the disk for installation.

The Microsoft number usually pops up when the authentication fails but I will try to track it down for you.

EDIT: windows does not show the number to call on there site, they have it blurred out. You will need to install the OS then try to activate first to get the number. The OS will provide the number for you automatically.