[SOLVED] Computer won't POST after a GPU upgrade ?

Jan 29, 2021
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Ok I'm stumped.
My computer won't POST when I turn it on. The LEDs turn on and the fans, but the monitors don't show any signal and there's no BIOS beep.

It work just fine until I decided to upgrade my GPU, I have a Gigabyte 1080 and FINALLY got my hands on a Gigabyte RTX 3090. Easy swap, right?
Well as most of you know, the 30 series are a lot bigger than older GPU's, which meant I had to move my water cooler, which meant I had to remove the RAM to get access to the water cooler screws.

The water cooler was moved, the RAM was replaced, and the 3090 was installed. I hit the power switch and it seemed fine... LEDs turned on, fans turned on, motherboard got power, GPU had power, but no signal to the monitors. After a bit I put the old GTX 1080 back into the computer, thinking I was just having a driver issue with the new card, but nope. The same thing happen with the old card, no signal.

I then thought, maybe, it was a RAM issue (Corsair Vengeance RGB PRO) because the RAM LEDs were the only LEDs that did not turn on when I powered on the computer. (Side note, I'm not sure if the RAM LEDs should turn immediately when it is powered on or not. My internet research on that wasn't compelling either way.)

I took an old internal speaker and hooked it up to my motherboard (ROG Maximus XII Formula from ASUS) to see if I could get some beeps, but nothing.
I've pulled the mother board out of the case, I've tried 2 different GPU's, I've tried No GPU's, 2 different PSU, 1 Stick of RAM, 2 sticks of RAM, No RAM, disconnected all hard drives and peripherals, reseeded reseated the CPU, nothing makes any difference.
The Q-Code just says 00.

Is it the motherboard or the RAM??? I'm stuck.

MB - ROG Maximus XII Formula
CPU - Intel i9 10900K
RAM - Corsair DDR4 Vengeance RGB Pro 2x32GB 3600MHz
PSU - HX1000i 1000W Platinum
Old GPU - Gigabyte GTX 1080
New GPU - Gigabyte RTX 3090
FANS - 6 Corsair QL RGB
Corsair custom Water Loop
 
Solution
May be some physical damage during the GPU upgrade. You may not have necessary done anything wrong or been too forceful.

However, something already "weak" may have decided to give up the ghost. May take some effort to find.

Use a bright flashlight and magnifying glass to take a close look at all screws, connections, cables, etc. to look for signs of damage or a short somewhere.

Especially around any screws that were removed and reinstalled.

Some metal to metal contact that should not be, a kinked or pinched wire, cracks in component board. Components bent, twisted, swollen, blackened/browned.

Check connections to the motherboard but also check the wires going into the connectors. None should be loose or otherwise wiggly.
Jan 29, 2021
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Reset the BIOS to default values and try again.

https://dlcdnets.asus.com/pub/ASUS/...OG_MAXIMUS_XII_FORMULA_BIOS_manual_EM_WEB.pdf

Do verify that I found the applicable User Manual.

Yes, that Bios Manual looks to be correct.

I did use the Clear CMOS button on the back of the PC and tried rebooting and got the same result (Fans and LED's powered up, but no monitor, POST, or BIOS.)
I also unplugged the computer and pulled the battery to clear the BIOS, but go the same result.
The manual says that by hitting DEL or F2 that you can go straight to BIOS skipping POST, but I'm not sure that is working in this case. I have tried it, but I can't be 100% sure since there is no video output working.
Maybe I'll try using a Window USB to boot from, just for something to try...Just getting to see a BIOS screen would be awesome!

Thanks for the help, this one is weird and haven't found an exact replica of it anywhere.
 
Jan 29, 2021
7
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Yes, that Bios Manual looks to be correct.

I did use the Clear CMOS button on the back of the PC and tried rebooting and got the same result (Fans and LED's powered up, but no monitor, POST, or BIOS.)
I also unplugged the computer and pulled the battery to clear the BIOS, but go the same result.
The manual says that by hitting DEL or F2 that you can go straight to BIOS skipping POST, but I'm not sure that is working in this case. I have tried it, but I can't be 100% sure since there is no video output working.
Maybe I'll try using a Window USB to boot from, just for something to try...Just getting to see a BIOS screen would be awesome!

Thanks for the help, this one is weird and haven't found an exact replica of it anywhere.

Tried the booting with the Windows USB plugged in, but, as I expected, same start deal (LEDs, Fans, motherboard, and GPU light up), but no POST yet.

Is it weird that nothing changes when I take the RAM out, so boot up with no RAM, at all? I feel like there should be a change when I try to boot up with RAM or not.
 

Ralston18

Titan
Moderator
As a matter of elimination: have you tried another known working video cable and/or another known working monitor. Even a TV....

For RAM - check the motherboard's User Guide/Manual. There may be a requirement that the first installed RAM be placed in a particular slot.

Another thought: PSU. How old? Heavily used for heaving gaming, video editing, or even bit-mining?

In any case, consider using a multi-meter(if you have one and know how to use it) and check the PSU. Or, find a knowledgeable friend or family member to help.

https://www.lifewire.com/how-to-manually-test-a-power-supply-with-a-multimeter-2626158

Not a full test as the PSU is not underload but the test may reveal some problem.
 
Jan 29, 2021
7
0
10
As a matter of elimination: have you tried another known working video cable and/or another known working monitor. Even a TV....

For RAM - check the motherboard's User Guide/Manual. There may be a requirement that the first installed RAM be placed in a particular slot.

Another thought: PSU. How old? Heavily used for heaving gaming, video editing, or even bit-mining?

In any case, consider using a multi-meter(if you have one and know how to use it) and check the PSU. Or, find a knowledgeable friend or family member to help.

https://www.lifewire.com/how-to-manually-test-a-power-supply-with-a-multimeter-2626158

Not a full test as the PSU is not underload but the test may reveal some problem.

Yeah, I have 2 monitors that I've re-tested plugging into a laptop to confirm that the monitors and cable work.

Yes, the RAM has to be in slot A2 and then B2. I've just tried brand new RAM with no change.

The PSU is 4 months old, some gaming and editing. I did try my old smaller 650w PSU on it to, with no difference.
 
At this point, we could confine ourselves to running with no GPU, a single RAM stick, connecting from the mainboard's integrated video out until we can at least get some inkling/semblance of signs of life from just PSU, CPU/mainboard with one RAM stick...
 

Ralston18

Titan
Moderator
May be some physical damage during the GPU upgrade. You may not have necessary done anything wrong or been too forceful.

However, something already "weak" may have decided to give up the ghost. May take some effort to find.

Use a bright flashlight and magnifying glass to take a close look at all screws, connections, cables, etc. to look for signs of damage or a short somewhere.

Especially around any screws that were removed and reinstalled.

Some metal to metal contact that should not be, a kinked or pinched wire, cracks in component board. Components bent, twisted, swollen, blackened/browned.

Check connections to the motherboard but also check the wires going into the connectors. None should be loose or otherwise wiggly.
 
Solution
Jan 29, 2021
7
0
10
At this point, we could confine ourselves to running with no GPU, a single RAM stick, connecting from the mainboard's integrated video out until we can at least get some inkling/semblance of signs of life from just PSU, CPU/mainboard with one RAM stick...
There is no integrated Video output on the Maximus XII Formula, but yes, I have been trying with single sticks of RAM and even got two new sticks to se if that was the issue at all.
 
Jan 29, 2021
7
0
10
May be some physical damage during the GPU upgrade. You may not have necessary done anything wrong or been too forceful.

However, something already "weak" may have decided to give up the ghost. May take some effort to find.

Use a bright flashlight and magnifying glass to take a close look at all screws, connections, cables, etc. to look for signs of damage or a short somewhere.

Especially around any screws that were removed and reinstalled.

Some metal to metal contact that should not be, a kinked or pinched wire, cracks in component board. Components bent, twisted, swollen, blackened/browned.

Check connections to the motherboard but also check the wires going into the connectors. None should be loose or otherwise wiggly.
Yeah, you might be right.... If I remember, when I 1st build the system, I seem to remember having some similar issue,, maybe?? I got it working by reseeding the RAM and it worked. Maybe there was already an issue with the MB???

Anyway, I've tried reseeding [reseating?] and using different combinations with the RAM to no advail...

So I went and got a new Mother Board and moved the components there, and it works. So it looks like there is something wrong with the board, whether it was damaged when I took the GPU, RAM, and water cooler out, or if there was already something loose from when I originally got the board... I don't know. I will take a close look at it.
 
Jan 29, 2021
7
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So I got a different temp Motherboard and moved the CPU, Cooler, RAM, and GPU over to it and it fired right up. So it looks like my original hunch was correct, something with the motherboard. It's only 4 months old