Question Computer won't post to BIOS , no display, no beeps

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aanderson2040

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May 25, 2018
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I've been trying for 2 hours now to get this to work and I've read several forum recommendations. I don't think the PC specs are that important in this case but it's a pre built PC that I was taking apart to test something else (I didn't have the right adapter so i scrapped that). It was working perfectly fine before I took it apart. Its a little dusty, about 5 years old, but still runs good up until now

It's got 8GB DDR3 RAM (only 1 slot available), 350 W PSU, and a HDD with a DVD drive.

I tried cleaning out the RAM slot by sliding a piece of paper but that didn't work. Then I tried re connecting Al the wires to make sure they were plugged in correctly. Then I reset the BIOS jumper. Everytime it gives me the same thing: power on but no display and the CPU cooler is going and it's cold. The monitor picks up a signal for a second I guess because it says no signal as soon as I turn it on.

I have no clue where to go from here?? As a side note, the has happened to me before but I figured out i left the SATA cable unplugged. First thing I looked for was all the cables so that shouldn't be an issue I hope... Any help is appreciated!! Thanks
 

Darkbreeze

Titan
Moderator
The specs are ALWAYS OF THE UTMOST IMPORTANCE, in EVERY case, so always provide them in FULL, anytime you require help with any kind of computer system.

What is the CPU model? What is the motherboard model? Is there a graphics card installed?

Or, if you don't know any of that, what is the exact model of the prebuilt system including any express service tag or sub model information that might be stickered on the back or side of the unit?
 

aanderson2040

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May 25, 2018
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Sorry!
Here's the specs
Machine type: 90BG
Product Family: Lenovo H50- 55
CPU: A8-7600 3.1 (Integrated graphics)
HDD: 1 TB
RAM: 8GB DDR3
ODD: DVD RW
OS: Windows 8.1 (Upgraded to 10)
PSU: Huntley 100-127/200-240V
6/3A
50/60 Hz
Contains transmitter module

UPDATE: So I noticed with more light that the CPU fan was not running so I plugged in a fan into the CPU fan slot and that worked. So my system CPU fan isn't working. Even with the working fan plugged in, it still wouldn't boot. So now 1 thing isn't working. I have another power supply but I don't even know if that one works since it was taken out of non working PC.
 

Darkbreeze

Titan
Moderator
So, if the CPU fan had failed at some point then it is likely that this unit was not working previously. It's fairly likely that when the CPU cooler fan stopped working, the CPU was overheated and is shot. This is not an uncommon occurrence on those AMD A series CPUs. They are particularly prone to damage from overheating and the thermal protection schemes that were supposed to keep them from being damaged by throttling or shutting down the system often didn't work, or didn't kick in until it was too late, or kicked in but the problem kept the CPU right at the borderline of where it could actually live long enough that the cumulative effect degraded the CPU anyhow.

In any case, it would not be a stretch to understand that a prebuilt system with a failed CPU cooler might be likely to also have a failed CPU.

You say it "runs good up until now" but I don't see how that could be possible if the installed CPU cooler didn't work. It contradicts the reality of what happens when you have a faulty CPU cooler.

Also, make sure the input on the monitor is set to the same as what you are using from the motherboard. HDMI, VGA, DVI, etc.

That is a terrible power supply as well, so there's always a chance that might be relevant, but it's just as possible that it's not.

The fan you plugged into the CPU fan header, is it a three pin or a four pin fan? Is the fan from the actual CPU cooler a three pin or a four pin fan? Yes, it could make a difference on whether the system works or not although usually if the BIOS doesn't see an RPM signal from the CPU fan it will just shut the system off unless it has that setting disabled in the BIOS, so that may not be relevant either but is worth knowing for reference.

If there is no system speaker attached to the motherboard, then there will not be any "beeps" no matter is wrong.
 

aanderson2040

Commendable
May 25, 2018
15
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So, if the CPU fan had failed at some point then it is likely that this unit was not working previously. It's fairly likely that when the CPU cooler fan stopped working, the CPU was overheated and is shot. This is not an uncommon occurrence on those AMD A series CPUs. They are particularly prone to damage from overheating and the thermal protection schemes that were supposed to keep them from being damaged by throttling or shutting down the system often didn't work, or didn't kick in until it was too late, or kicked in but the problem kept the CPU right at the borderline of where it could actually live long enough that the cumulative effect degraded the CPU anyhow.

In any case, it would not be a stretch to understand that a prebuilt system with a failed CPU cooler might be likely to also have a failed CPU.

You say it "runs good up until now" but I don't see how that could be possible if the installed CPU cooler didn't work. It contradicts the reality of what happens when you have a faulty CPU cooler.

Also, make sure the input on the monitor is set to the same as what you are using from the motherboard. HDMI, VGA, DVI, etc.

That is a terrible power supply as well, so there's always a chance that might be relevant, but it's just as possible that it's not.

The fan you plugged into the CPU fan header, is it a three pin or a four pin fan? Is the fan from the actual CPU cooler a three pin or a four pin fan? Yes, it could make a difference on whether the system works or not although usually if the BIOS doesn't see an RPM signal from the CPU fan it will just shut the system off unless it has that setting disabled in the BIOS, so that may not be relevant either but is worth knowing for reference.

If there is no system speaker attached to the motherboard, then there will not be any "beeps" no matter is wrong.


The fan I tested was a 3 pin,while the CPU fan was 4. The speaker for the beeps is built in,but I haven't heard it beep in a long time so I'm not even sure if that works. I'm not sure if I mentioned this already but I did try restarting the bios jumper but I'm not sure if I did it right since there were 2 bios (4 pins total).
 

Darkbreeze

Titan
Moderator
I've never seen a "built in" on any modern motherboard. On VERY old ones, yes, but I suppose it's possible on an OEM model and I just haven't come across it.

Normally they look like this:



Without an ACTUAL, WORKING, CPU cooler, it's a bad idea to try running this system anyhow because guaranteed the CPU is still getting hot whether it can POST or boot regardless. I'd get a replacement cooler of some kind, even a working, used, stock cooler for your socket type, would be fine, and then try to get it to work after you have that installed, if you are inclined to continue trying to get this to work. The other thing you might look at is whether the CMOS battery has gone dead. I'd put the jumper pins back exactly where they were to start with, and in the future any time you want to reset the CMOS/BIOS do so by removing the CMOS battery for five minutes. Just leave the pins where they are in their normal positions when you do so and don't move them.
 

aanderson2040

Commendable
May 25, 2018
15
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1,520
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See
I've never seen a "built in" on any modern motherboard. On VERY old ones, yes, but I suppose it's possible on an OEM model and I just haven't come across it.

Normally they look like this:



Without an ACTUAL, WORKING, CPU cooler, it's a bad idea to try running this system anyhow because guaranteed the CPU is still getting hot whether it can POST or boot regardless. I'd get a replacement cooler of some kind, even a working, used, stock cooler for your socket type, would be fine, and then try to get it to work after you have that installed, if you are inclined to continue trying to get this to work. The other thing you might look at is whether the CMOS battery has gone dead. I'd put the jumper pins back exactly where they were to start with, and in the future any time you want to reset the CMOS/BIOS do so by removing the CMOS battery for five minutes. Just leave the pins where they are in their normal positions when you do so and don't move them.
After I left the pins in the new position with the new computer for like 2 minutes, I turned it officially and put them back. I hope that didn't make it overheat... The CPU heatsink seemed fine, not hot at all back then. The CPU fan was working before I turned it off and unplugged it before all this so it's pretty shocking how it just died. I had a spare one but I had just sold it 2 days ago :/ life really hating on me right now I guess. I'm going to take it to a computer shop tomorrow and I'll let you know what they say, since they might have a new CMOS battery and they could see what else might be wrong with it. Thanks for your continued support! I'd really hate to buy another because this one has worked fine..
 

aanderson2040

Commendable
May 25, 2018
15
0
1,520
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Hey guys sorry for the late reply,

I took it to a repair shop last week and the said the motherboard was probably dead. This is the 4TH MOTHERBOARD that's died on me and I keep questioning what am I doing wrong??? Im getting a new upgrade since it's kinda old with a new CPU and RAM and motherboard. I'm getting a Gigabyte board most likely. I'm also gonna invest in some anti static gloves so I don't mess up any more motherboards and probably wear a mask so I don't spit on it somehow. Hopefully the motherboard fits my case. Thanks everyone who responded to my questions. You guys help me sleep at night knowing I'm not lost if I have an issue I can't solve with my computer :)
 
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