[SOLVED] Cooler not working since changing CMOS battery

[Jayseff]

Hi, so I changed my CMOS battery in my mobo (ASRock Fatal1ty Z97 Killer) last night. Ever since I did this my CPU (Intel Core i7 4790k) has been hitting temperatures of 95°C . When I boot up it starts at around 35°C but hits 95°C within about 2 minutes. My cooler is a Corsair Hydro Series H60. I will attach an imgur album of my H/W Monitor from my BIOS menu, Is my cooler busted? Is my mobo? Thanks

Album of what my BIOS is saying

 

[MeanMachine41]

Try to determine if the pump has failed. Usually one or the other tubes is hotter and the pump should have a slight humming sound
Remove the cooler and replace your TIM with thermal grizzly kryonaut. If you have any other air cooler to test try that.
You have a "k"processor, Is it overclocked.? If so bring frequency back to default.

 

[Jayseff]

Try to determine if the pump has failed. Usually one or the other tubes is hotter and the pump should have a slight humming sound
Remove the cooler and replace your TIM with thermal grizzly kryonaut. If you have any other air cooler to test try that.
You have a "k"processor, Is it overclocked.? If so bring frequency back to default.

The cooler sounded like it was going to explode last night, but now it's just making a humming sound, yeah. Does that mean it's busted? Neither pump feels particularly hot, nor is my processor overclocked. I haven't overclocked it before.

 

[MeanMachine41]

The cooler sounded like it was going to explode last night, but now it's just making a humming sound, yeah. Does that mean it's busted? Neither pump feels particularly hot, nor is my processor overclocked. I haven't overclocked it before.

Well with what you describe the pump is failing or failed.
You can do better than a H60 which are no better than a mediocre air cooler.

 

[Jayseff]

Well with what you describe the pump is failing or failed.
You can do better than a H60 which are no better than a mediocre air cooler.

Okay, cool, thanks. I think I'll just put the stock fan back onto it then for the time being. Hopefully that works..

 

[Mr.Spock]

make sure your fans curves are correct after the CMOS change. this is especially true if you have your pump connected to the CPU header and radiator fan connected to a SYS/CHA header.

 

[Jayseff]

make sure your fans curves are correct after the CMOS change. this is especially true if you have your pump connected to the CPU header and radiator fan connected to a SYS/CHA header.

How would I do that? I didn’t put this PC together as I’m not great with hardware (I’m learning...) so I genuinely have no idea how to do most troubleshooting tips I’ve seen.

 

[Mr.Spock]

if you check the connectors they'll match a title silkscreened onto the motherboard. if the CPU header is connected to the pump, the pump will run 100% when temps are high, but the radiator fan will only use whatever temp your ambient / system temps are at which may be your issue. a screenshot of the connectors and their locations would also be helpful

 

[Jayseff]

if you check the connectors they'll match a title silkscreened onto the motherboard. if the CPU header is connected to the pump, the pump will run 100% when temps are high, but the radiator fan will only use whatever temp your ambient / system temps are at which may be your issue. a screenshot of the connectors and their locations would also be helpful

So I just did some digging around my PC and took some pics, as well as some pics from my BIOS menu. Does anything look irregular?

https://imgur.com/a/OlWFFYp

View: https://imgur.com/a/OlWFFYp

 

[geofelt]

Why did you feel the need to change out the cmos battery?

When you did, your bios reverted to the default setup.
It may be that your cooler pump was not set to 100% speed which it should have been.
Modern motherboards will have a explicitly labelled header for the pump that always runs at full speeds.
The bios may also have some fan curve settings that you need to reset.

As said earlier, a H60 is about as efficient as a simple tower type cooler with a 120mm fan.
Looking at your photo, I see what looks like corrosion near the junction of the tube and the radiator.
Possibly, there is a small leak there.
AIO coolers do not last forever.

I would replace with a good air cooler.
A cm hyper 212 is cheap and ok; much better than the stock intel pushpin cooler.
I have found the hyper212 difficult to mount level.
A better option would be the noctua NH-U12s
https://www.newegg.com/noctua-nh-u12s/p/N82E16835608040

 

[Jayseff]

Why did you feel the need to change out the cmos battery?

When you did, your bios reverted to the default setup.
It may be that your cooler pump was not set to 100% speed which it should have been.
Modern motherboards will have a explicitly labelled header for the pump that always runs at full speeds.
The bios may also have some fan curve settings that you need to reset.

As said earlier, a H60 is about as efficient as a simple tower type cooler with a 120mm fan.
Looking at your photo, I see what looks like corrosion near the junction of the tube and the radiator.
Possibly, there is a small leak there.
AIO coolers do not last forever.

I would replace with a good air cooler.
A cm hyper 212 is cheap and ok; much better than the stock intel pushpin cooler.
I have found the hyper212 difficult to mount level.
A better option would be the noctua NH-U12s
https://www.newegg.com/noctua-nh-u12s/p/N82E16835608040

I had to change it out because it ran out of charge and it put my system time settings back to 2014.

I think I have attached all the details re: my fan settings in the imgur album above, does anything there look incorrect? I’m not very experienced with PC building so have no idea if it’s right or not.

Also, would this cooler be alright? Noctua NH-U12S chromax.black, 120mm Single-Tower CPU Cooler (Black) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07Y88BNYZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_ydvSFbGAPTM8M

 

[geofelt]

Understandable.
A cr2032 battery normally lasts a very long time if your pc is left plugged in.

The Noctua NH-U12S chromax.black is an outstanding cooler and is easy to mount.
It looks like your case has the requisite 158mm of height.

 

[Jayseff]

Understandable.
A cr2032 battery normally lasts a very long time if your pc is left plugged in.

The Noctua NH-U12S chromax.black is an outstanding cooler and is easy to mount.
It looks like your case has the requisite 158mm of height.

Sounds good. Just before I pull the trigger and order it, do you think my current cooler is beyond salvation?

 

[geofelt]

Sounds good. Just before I pull the trigger and order it, do you think my current cooler is beyond salvation?

I don't know what you might do to fix the H60 if it is truly the issue.
I do think that you would be very pleased with the noctua.
I do not know the make/model of your case.
But an air cooler is going to draw cooling air over your motherboard, graphics card and the cpu cooler on the way out the back of the case. It will likely be quieter too.

 

[Mr.Spock]

from your pics I see the pump is connected to the CPU header - didn't see your fan settings but it should be pretty much 100%, you can even plug it into a SYS/CHA header and leave it pretty much 70-100%.

hard to tell - but you don't actually have a fan blowing over/through the radiator - that's probably the main issue.
from the monitoring - I see both chassis fans are blowing nominally - think you just need the fan exhausting through the radiator to really get decent cooling. (I see a Corsair fan being used as the intake)

P.S. you seem to have a 240mm radiator so you probably have an H100 not a H60 - it should probably work better with a fan pushing air through the radiator. You should in theory have more than enough to cool the CPU right now

you should be able to adjust the fan curve of that fan similar to the below:\

ASRock Fatal1ty Z97X Killer Motherboard Review - KitGuru

Sitting in the middle of ASRock's current Z97 gaming motherboard line-up, the Fatal1ty Z97X Killer t

www.kitguru.net