[SOLVED] CoolerMaster Sedion 120V V2 - CPU Temp Hit 100°c

[Closery]

Hello everyone,
It's been three years since I've build my PC and for the first time since I bought it that my pc shutdown itself while I'm playing games then I check my temperatures in AIDA64 Stress Test about 10min and it hits 100°c and while idle temp is about 50-58°c with RPM of my all fans are max.
Average temperature where I live is 26-30°c (I don't know my room's temp)

I have ordered new thermal compound(Cooler Master Mastergel Maker Nano) when it arrives I will change it (Now I'm using very poor thermal compound) but I'm not sure it will fix my problem. I'm thinking to change my radiator fan with high static presure fan but they are kinda expensive for me now.
So what do you guys recommend for me? What could be the problem do you think?

My Build;
CPU: i5-6600k
GPU: MSI GTX 970 G4
RAM: Corshair Vengance 3000mhz 16GB (8x2)
MOBO: MSI Z170A Gaming M3
CASE: Aerocool Aero 800
Cooling;
-Front: 2x Dark Ring RGB 1200 RPM Fan
-Back: 1x Aerocool 1200 RPM Stock Fan
-Top: 1x CoolerMaster Seidon 120V V2 Radiator and CM Sedion 2200 RPM Stock Fan, 1x Aerocool 1200 RPM Stock Fan
OS: Windows 10 version 1903 with all updates and official drivers.

My build and the airflow of my case;

 

[Darkbreeze]

Thermal compound WILL NOT suddenly cause temps to suddenly rise by 10°C or more.

Unless you've been toeing the line in terms of thermal compliance all along, then it's not a thermal paste issue.

If all your fans are running normally, then I'd go into the BIOS or your monitoring software if you are using software to monitor your cooling hardware, and check to see what is being reported for the pump speed.

My guess would be that your pump has failed. Your unit is not a high end model and most AIO coolers have on average about a 3-5 year lifespan on the pump anyhow. You might be able to put your finger on the top of the pump and determine if it is running or not but even if it feels like it is running, it's still possible for the impeller shaft to have broken away from the impeller blades. A common issue, which results in no coolant being pumped even though the pump motor is running.

I'd also double check just to make sure none of the fasteners on the water block to the backplate mounting hardware have come loose at all.

 

[Closery]

Thanks for the answer and information.

Yeah I think so but one year ago I used very poor thermal paste and I haven't played heavy games a long time and I didn't track the temprature maybe I have that problem with in one year but I just noticed :/
Also I've checked the pump physically and with a MSI CommandCenter software, it look like it's working fine. RPM of the pump is about 2300-2400 and not going down.

I guess the new thermal paste which I ordered is coming tomorrow and if it will not fix, I guess I should change my cooling system, maybe with a new liquid cooling or aircooling.

 

[CompuTronix]

Closery,

On behalf of Tom's Moderator Team, welcome aboard!

My esteemed colleague, Darkbreeze, is absolutely correct. Replacing the thermal compound will NOT solve this type of problem. Moreover, pump vibration and RPM in BIOS or any utility does NOT prove or verify proper flow. Apart from the potential for a coolant leak, there are four problems common to AIO's:

(1) All AIO's will eventually fail. It’s not a question of if; it’s a question of when. Pumps can have component failures in the electronics that drive the impeller, which is a moving part that can wear out, so those which run 24/7/365 are prone to premature failure. AIO units are notorious for failures due to inferior pump quality, whereas custom loops typically use high-end pumps which have greater longevity.

(2) Coolant can slowly evaporate over time due to "permeation". However unlikely it may seem, coolant can actually dissipate directly through the tubes. This can introduce bubbles into the impeller chamber causing "cavitation", whereby coolant flow is impeded or interrupted.

(3) AIO's are sealed Closed Loop Coolers (CLC), which unlike custom loops, are not designed to be disassembled for the water block and impeller to be flushed, cleaned of bio-contaminants and radiator sediments, then refilled. Bio-contaminants gradually accumulate over time and will eventually clog the water block and radiator tubes, thereby reducing flow and thermal efficiency. This is evidenced by Core temperatures that slowly increase over periods of several months to a few years.

(4) Also unlike custom loops, AIO's use dissimilar metals (aluminum radiator / copper water block). This causes galvanic corrosion which produces sediments that accumulate over time, resulting in blockages and flow problems. Even new AIO's may contain radiator sediments due to inadequate flushing after manufacturing. Experienced builders of custom loops will always thoroughly flush brand-new radiators. Flux, solder and metal fragments are typically found in the flush water when it's poured through a strainer.

For no apparent reason ... OR ... by simply installing, moving, tipping, handling or otherwise disturbing a NEW OR OLD unit, particles can become dislodged, whereupon the next power-up, the now free-floating particles can circulate into the impeller chamber and restrict or completely stop the impeller.

• Since the impeller is magnetically coupled to the stator (no direct drive shaft), the unit may "appear" that it's running while the impeller is restricted or completely stalled and not rotating at all. "Hearing" the unit running or "feeling" vibration can be deceiving as it does not necessarily indicate flow, nor does Pump RPM in BIOS or various software utilities. Pump vibration is often mistaken for fan vibration which can "telegraph" throughout the entire AIO unit.

Without an actual in-line flow sensor, proper flow is difficult to confirm. Under normal operation, even with the CPU at 100% workload, there should be only a moderate temperature differential between the tubes. However, if one tube is hot while the other is cool, or the water block is hot while the radiator is cool, it indicates little to no flow. Surface temperatures can be verified with an infrared (IR) thermometer.

Since your AIO is at least three years old, it's highly likely that bio-contaminants and particles from galvanic corrosion are impeding coolant flow as they circulate throughout the unit. Hopefully you have a decent backup air cooler to use while you decide what you'd like to do.

Once again, welcome aboard!

CT

 

[Darkbreeze]

Yeah, that's the other thing I was going to, but failed, to mention. At 3 years old it is VERY likely that you have developed cavitation, due to loss of coolant which can create an "air pocket". Since air doesn't tend to pump well, it generally results in no flow even if there is still enough coolant in the system to technically be capable of keeping it cool.

You can TRY to reposition the air pocket by tilting the case all the way back, all the way forward, side to side or even upside down, in an attempt to get the air bubble to move to and stay at, the radiator. Some amount of air in the radiator can be tolerated. Any amount of air in the pump chamber, usually results in something undesirable.

If that doesn't work, then I'd say it's either gone too far or there's been a separation of the impeller shaft and blades/vanes and that the pump is still working but it is not actually moving anything.

Another possibility is that debris or corrosion have clogged up the fins on the water side of the coldplate which can not only reduce flow through the pump but drastically reduce the efficiency of heat transfer.

 

[Closery]

Thanks you for a lot of information and welcome message.

Today finally I change my thermal paste and I think it worked for me. I used Cooler Master Mastergel Maker Nano and I will never use any cheap thermal paste ever again.

I made a test in AIDA64 for 10mins before and after.
(While I'm doing both test the air conditioning was open at same temp)

BEFORE

AFTER

(I know 20°c is too much for thermal paste difference, I'm shocked too but maybe I was using very little thermal paste before I'm not sure)

If i wasn't using air conditioning while both test I'm pretty sure I will get max 100°c as before and max 70°c as after because I was doing some test with AC and without AC couple days ago and difference was 20°c arround.

Tomorrow I will do a new test without AC to make sure but I think it worked and I guess my cooler has a little more life

 

[Darkbreeze]

More than likely what happened was you didn't tighten the fasters well enough the first time and they worked themselves free a little bit, which created a gap between the coldplate and the CPU heat spreader. Obviously that's just a guess, but either way.

One thing I would recommend is that you stop using HWmonitor. It's worthless. It's literally one of the worst monitoring utilities out there in my opinion. I can't overstate how many times I've seen people here who thought they had problems only to find out that HWmonitor or Openhardware monitor was not reporting something correctly or was drawing information from the wrong sensor.

Use HWinfo, AND, don't use Aida. Aida is useless as well when it comes to thermal compliance testing. It is not steady state. You NEED a steady state load for thermal testing.

This is directly from Computronix, as given to me, years ago.

Regardless of architecture. Prime95 v26.6 (Or the latest version of prime with both AVX2 and AVX disabled in the options on the main option pop up window) works equally well across all platforms. Steady-state is the key. How can anyone extrapolate accurate Core temperatures from workloads that fluctuate like a bad day on the Stock Market?

I'm aware of 5 utilities with steady-state workloads. In order of load level they are:

(1) P95 v26.6 - Small FFT's
(2) HeavyLoad - Stress CPU
(3) FurMark - CPU Burner
(4) Intel Processor Diagnostic Tool - CPU Load
(5) AIDA64 - Tools - System Stability Test - Stress CPU

AIDA64's Stress CPU fails to load any overclocked / overvolted CPU to get anywhere near TDP, and is therefore useless, except for giving naive users a sense of false security because their temps are so low.

HeavyLoad is the closest alternative. Temps and watts are within 3% of Small FFT's.

Use Prime95 "Small FFT". NOT "Smallest FFT", just "Small FFT" and disable both AVX2 and AVX. AVX will be grayed out until you disable AVX2 by putting a check in the box next to it.

Use HWinfo for monitoring. Or, you can also use Core Temp if you are only monitoring thermals. Core Temp is very accurate.

Monitoring software​

HWmonitor, Open hardware monitor, Realtemp, Speccy, Speedfan, Windows utilities, CPU-Z, NZXT CAM and most of the bundled motherboard utilities are often not the best choice as they are not always accurate. Some are actually grossly inaccurate, especially with certain chipsets or specific sensors that for whatever reason they tend to not like or work well with. I've found HWinfo or CoreTemp to be the MOST accurate with the broadest range of chipsets and sensors. They are also almost religiously kept up to date.

CoreTemp is great for just CPU thermals including core temps or distance to TJmax on older AMD platforms.

HWinfo is great for pretty much EVERYTHING, including CPU thermals, core loads, core temps, package temps, GPU sensors, HDD and SSD sensors, motherboard chipset and VRM sensor, all of it. When starting HWinfo after installation, always check the box next to "sensors only" and de-select the box next to "summary".


Run HWinfo and look at system voltages and other sensor readings.

Monitoring temperatures, core speeds, voltages, clock ratios and other reported sensor data can often help to pick out an issue right off the bat. HWinfo is a good way to get that data and in my experience tends to be more accurate than some of the other utilities available. CPU-Z, GPU-Z and Core Temp all have their uses but HWinfo tends to have it all laid out in a more convenient fashion so you can usually see what one sensor is reporting while looking at another instead of having to flip through various tabs that have specific groupings, plus, it is extremely rare for HWinfo to not report the correct sensor values under the correct sensor listings, or misreport other information. Utilities like HWmonitor, Openhardware monitor and Speccy, tend to COMMONLY misreport sensor data, or not report it at all.

After installation, run the utility and when asked, choose "sensors only". The other window options have some use but in most cases everything you need will be located in the sensors window. If you're taking screenshots to post for troubleshooting, it will most likely require taking three screenshots and scrolling down the sensors window between screenshots in order to capture them all.

It is most helpful if you can take a series of HWinfo screenshots at idle, after a cold boot to the desktop. Open HWinfo and wait for all of the Windows startup processes to complete. Usually about four or five minutes should be plenty. Take screenshots of all the HWinfo sensors.

Next, run something demanding like Prime95 version 26.6 or Heaven benchmark. Take another set of screenshots while either of those is running so we can see what the hardware is doing while under a load.

*Download HWinfo


For temperature monitoring only, I feel Core Temp is the most accurate and also offers a quick visual reference for core speed, load and CPU voltage:


*Download Core Temp​