[SOLVED] Cooling that cools but after a while it doesn’t

Mar 1, 2022
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Let alone my system specs, i have this kind of problem:
My cpu overheats… like this morning 100 celsius on startup… 90 celsius idle on bios.
I open up my pc, disassemble it, reassemble it, idle on bios 30 celsius same on windows, even on stresstest of my ryzen9-5900x max temp was 80 (not overclocked) with a msi mag cooler 360.

Now this happened several times, previously i changed thermal compound and changed airflow with fan disposition thinking that might have been the problem. This time i completely did nothing yet… it worked? Simply disassembling it.

Can it be that SOMEHOW static energy is causing this? How can i disperse it efficiently without dismantling it if that’s the case?
 
Solution
Check how you have it mounted. You want the tubes connected to the radiator higher than the pump/block. If the pump is at the highest point it is likely getting air bubbles trapped and preventing the pump from working. Moving it around would dislodge the bubbles temporarily.
Let alone my system specs, i have this kind of problem:
My cpu overheats… like this morning 100 celsius on startup… 90 celsius idle on bios.
I open up my pc, disassemble it, reassemble it, idle on bios 30 celsius same on windows, even on stresstest of my ryzen9-5900x max temp was 80 (not overclocked) with a msi mag cooler 360.

Now this happened several times, previously i changed thermal compound and changed airflow with fan disposition thinking that might have been the problem. This time i completely did nothing yet… it worked? Simply disassembling it.

Can it be that SOMEHOW static energy is causing this? How can i disperse it efficiently without dismantling it if that’s the case?
Start by running with the side panel off the case. That will ensure you have sufficient air. If it still overheats, then point a desk fan at it. That will ensure you have airflow.
If it is OK after the first, then you need to look at inflow/exhaust fans. If it is not OK after the first, but is after the second, you need to look at your CPU cooling and maybe inflow/exhaust.
 
Check how you have it mounted. You want the tubes connected to the radiator higher than the pump/block. If the pump is at the highest point it is likely getting air bubbles trapped and preventing the pump from working. Moving it around would dislodge the bubbles temporarily.
 
Solution
Start by running with the side panel off the case. That will ensure you have sufficient air. If it still overheats, then point a desk fan at it. That will ensure you have airflow.
If it is OK after the first, then you need to look at inflow/exhaust fans. If it is not OK after the first, but is after the second, you need to look at your CPU cooling and maybe inflow/exhaust.
Doesn't really matter, other than having 3 front fans that push the air out and 2 on top + 1 in the back that flow the air in i tried running it full open, problem persisted, EVEN when undervolting the CPU at 3.3MHz nd 1.1Volt.
Even tho right now i noticed that by plugging the cable of both monitor and current out for the night the problem doesn't present itself (for now).
As i said, the pc is completely running fine, randomly after some weeks of work does this "overheating" stuff, that goes away by randomly disassembling and reassembling the build.
 
You probably shook the gunk loose from just moving it. The MAG and MPG coolers appear to have contaminated coolant. The MEGs are ok.
Oh god, that might be the case tbh, but if so WTF kinda annoying how MSI sells a closed circuit product that's like that .... mine is barely 1 year old too (same as the one in the video just 1 more sector / fan to it), ill check with MSI support if that's the case, but it might just be even tho i can definetly feel the warmt from the tubes when the temp is over 90C and the pump shows it's running from BIOS monitor.
 
Check how you have it mounted. You want the tubes connected to the radiator higher than the pump/block. If the pump is at the highest point it is likely getting air bubbles trapped and preventing the pump from working. Moving it around would dislodge the bubbles temporarily.
I have a front mount with tubes on top, even tho i really REALLY REALLY doubt the mount counts for the undervolting i'm applying to my cpu (as i said it's a ryzen 9 5900x that i undervolted at 1.1 V to 3.3 MHz) i even tried literally putting my build upside down xD still not solving the problem (actually flipping it made it worse cuz at next startup just at BIOS after 3 termal throttle errors i got a read of 102 Celsius) this might make the assumption that i actually might have contaminated coolant even tho i didn't put it myself (since MSI sells closed circuits with cooland alr in it) and flipping might have made it worse for the time being.
 
Msi, and most other options out there, don't make their own AIOs. They're sourced from other companies.
In the case of MAG and MPG Coreliquid, that OEM is Apaltek. The same company did NZXT's Kraken M22, which also began to show signs of failure shortly after use, as well as the recently launched Fractal Design Lumen - time will tell how that one holds up.
The OEM of MEG Coreliquid is 'tried and true' Asetek, one of the 2 most common AIO OEMs, the other being Cool-It.


FYI, some air is present in these units on purpose. If they were topped off, changes in pressure would risk the AIO popping or springing a leak, and then you'd have an expensive mess...

i can definetly feel the warmt from the tubes when the temp is over 90C
Both tubes are warm when this happens? That's good. What's not optimal is when only one of them feels like that.

Ah well... looks like the cooler has to go regardless; seeing many 'hot' complaints about these Apaltek-made coolers, and there's not many ways to troubleshoot AIOs, much less fix them.