Corsair CS550M PSU Fan replacement

[Kristiyan_1]

My PSU 3 years old, started doing this grinding Noise. When i hit it it stops but every time i start my PC it does it again. I read that the Fan may cause the problem. Or even that plastic thing idk how though..

I saw some Videos of ppl soldering new Fans, but i see on mine there is a pin connector, can i just swap the new Fan in it without soldering? Also which Fan do u recommend. It doesnt have to be ultra quiet.

 

[jankerson]

VERY bad idea, that PSU is 3+ YO...

Replace the PSU.

 

[Phillip Corcoran]

That's a bad i.dea & potentially dangerous, I don't know anyone who attempted to replace PSU fan, it makes no sense and flies in the face of best advice.

Replace the entire PSU.

 

[Vic 40]

I saw some Videos of ppl soldering new Fans, but i see on mine there is a pin connector, can i just swap the new Fan in it without soldering? Also which Fan do u recommend. It doesnt have to be ultra quiet.

Not to argue with the above (well a little),but i guess you already opened the psu looking at the above underscored or you found a review about it like the one on jonnyguru.
If kept long enough of the wall should there be no residual power in the psu so don't really see the "dangerous part in it and you could connect something to it, like a fan, with psu disconnected from power the wall (but at "on") which might drain it from power.Set it to "off" when replacing the fan of course.

If wanting to try is getting a fitting fan the most difficult thing i think,could maybe look at something like this,
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N1Y4D32/ref=psdc_11036291_t3_B00KNH89A8
other option,
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N1Y4BMA/ref=psdc_11036291_t1_B00KNH89A8
(there are small differences,mostly the Amps they work on which i think relate to rpm they can get to and bearings,like "ball bearing" vs "Hydraumatic Bearing", i would first look at the first option as nr1, it has the highest rpm range so best cooling capacity and probably the best bearing,but am not sure about the that bearing.It also seems the most quiet one.)

Can't guarantee these will work though,but they are 2pin like the one now in the psu. No soldering would be needed.From all i can find do these 2pin connectors fit the connector on the psu's pcb,but cannot be 100% sure.
You could test the psu after the switch by connecting just a fan to a molex connector and connecting the green and a black wire on the 24pin connector with something metal like a god size paperclip or use something like this,
https://www.amazon.com/XSPC-ATX-Bridge-Tool-Black/dp/B00NKQ4F98/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1518032915&sr=1-4&keywords=psu+24pin+tester&dpID=41EUWwa67TL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
or this one,
https://www.amazon.com/24-Pin-PSU-Jumper-Starter-Compatible/dp/B0756WFMNF/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1518032915&sr=1-1&keywords=psu+24pin+tester&dpID=415jjW2kSdL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
no need to just put it in the system right away.
BUT ...if something goes wrong and the psu dies or whatever else (just to say) it's the risk you take.

The people above are right that 3 years is about the warranty on the psu so getting a new one would be the best way to go,but i don't see anything dangerous by trying the above fan(s) (keep the underscored in mind).

So it's up to you to decide where to go with this.

Didn't ask before,but what do you really hit? Did you test the psu alone as described above?