Corsair H80i V2 Fan replacement/ Pump position and case fans on Phanteks Evolv

alpg

Reputable
Feb 18, 2016
35
0
4,540
Hi everyone,

This is my case. https://imgur.com/a/YHULO


I have 3 phanteks stock case fans which came with my case.
2 Corsair stock fans which came with my Corsair H80i v2

They are all functional.
the positions and directions of blowing are visible on this pic:
https://imgur.com/wDlmcS9

The corsair is in the front of the case installed with 2 stock fans which are basically making the radiator a sandwich, pulling air from the front (i think its called push/pull config.)

Please keep in mind that: I am not a overclocker, i have never ever overclocked anything in my whole life and i dont need to, so temps are probably not an issue. I just want to have a healtier airflow for a longer life components and a quieter and a more eye pleasing set up.

EDIT: As answers shown, i have given up on radiators fan to be RGB, maybe i can change the case fans with RGB and thats it

My questions are:

1- The position of the hoses going to the cpu unit is interfereing with my GPU's nice rgb Eye lighting from my seating position.(https://imgur.com/rOrhEES) Do you think i can install the radiator upside down? So that the hoses are on top and i can see the gpu rog eye lights better? https://imgur.com/rfdCCi8

2- Is the top fan position stupid? Do you think it interferes wtih the air flow which is coming from the radiator fans? Should i change the position and move the fan to the other side of the spiderman? https://imgur.com/6rwZbRh

3- Stock Corsair fans are loud AF. i am used to hearing (actually the opposite) a noctua NF p 14 on my CPU which was basically silent. What are the quitest RGB fans i can replace those corsair?

4- Can i get away with 1 bigger/better/quiter fan on my radiator which is pulling or pushing instead of this double fan push/pull set up?

5- Do you have any other suggestion to make this a little more quiet.
 
Solution
The 3000rpm model is usually more expensive and top speeds are louder. If you tailor the fan curve correctly there should be no issue with using that. If you are unable to create a custom fan curve it might be a bit too much really. If you can, should be fine.
Do you think i can install the radiator upside down?

That is how I have my GPU's radiator. It's installed in the top of my Vivo Titan. I don't want its hot exhaust "cooling" my rig.

Do you think it interferes wtih the air flow which is coming from the radiator fans? Should i change the position and move the fan to the other side of the spiderman?

Heat can pool at the top of the case. Having a fan there on low exhaust, like I do, is beneficial but I can't see your top fan spinning like the rest. Odd speed maybe messing with the cam's shutter speed?

What are the quitest RGB fans i can replace those corsair

https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Riing-Adjustable-Radiator-CL-F042-PL12SW/dp/B014QW98UK/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1517234602&sr=1-1&keywords=Thermaltake+Riing+12+RGB+LED+120mm+Adjustable+Color+Case+Radiator+Fan Idk about quietest but they aren't NOISY.

Can i get away with 1 bigger/better/quiter fan on my radiator which is pulling or pushing instead of this double fan push/pull set up?

Maybe as long as it's within the recommended fan specs. for that radiator although I recommend a top mount with 2 fans. 2 fans can move the same amount of as as one fan but they can do it quieter.

Do you have any other suggestion to make this a little more quiet.
Maybe replace the rear fan with https://www.nzxt.com/products/aer-rgb
 
Shouldn't make any difference if you do that with the radiator position, so long as the hoses reach.

There are very few RGB fans with both good performance characteristics AND low noise. In fact, the Corsair Maglev fans are probably the only ones that I'd even loosely say are RGB, somewhat quiet and have good performance, and the quiet part is questionable. If you want RGB, my opinion is get someplace besides the fans, and use fans that are actually good performers (With higher static pressure if they are going on a radiator) like the Noctua NF-F12 or NF-A14, Noctua Industrial PPC series, EVGA FX series, Aerocool DS series and a few of the Thermalright or Noiseblocker fans. Maybe a few others too.

Push pull configurations have not been shown to make a lot of difference, aside from being noisier. Increasing noise levels by 40% to gain a 1-5 degree thermal benefit doesn't seem to make a lot of sense to me. In some cases I've actually seen thermal performance go down if the secondary fan isn't more capable than the primary fan once you factor in the restriction of the heatsink or radiator.

Bottom line, air cooling is ALWAYS going to be quieter than water cooling until and unless they figure out how to get rid of pump noise entirely and still are able to maintain adequate movement of coolant. Plus, there is really no thermal advantage as there are always air coolers that can do the same job or better, usually for less money, than any equivalently priced AIO closed loop. Open loops are of course a whole other matter.
 
That is how I have my GPU's radiator. It's installed in the top of my Vivo Titan. I don't want its hot exhaust "cooling" my rig.
**On the user manual it says the hoses should face down for healtier results. Should i overlook this?

Heat can pool at the top of the case. Having a fan there on low exhaust, like I do, is beneficial but I can't see your top fan spinning like the rest. Odd speed maybe messing with the cam's shutter speed?
**Those are automatic they start and stop according to the case temp thanks to asus software.


Maybe as long as it's within the recommended fan specs. for that radiator although I recommend a top mount with 2 fans. 2 fans can move the same amount of as as one fan but they can do it quieter.
**what you say contraditcs totally with the guy who answered second . i dont know which one to believe =)

Maybe replace the rear fan with https://www.nzxt.com/products/aer-rgb
**i want to only use ASUS compatible fans

 
Shouldn't make any difference if you do that with the radiator position, so long as the hoses reach.,
** it says on the manual the hoses should look down, are you sure?

There are very few RGB fans with both good performance characteristics AND low noise. In fact, the Corsair Maglev fans are probably the only ones that I'd even loosely say are RGB, somewhat quiet and have good performance, and the quiet part is questionable. If you want RGB, my opinion is get someplace besides the fans, and use fans that are actually good performers (With higher static pressure if they are going on a radiator) like the Noctua NF-F12 or NF-A14, Noctua Industrial PPC series, EVGA FX series, Aerocool DS series and a few of the Thermalright or Noiseblocker fans. Maybe a few others too.
** you are right, i gave up on rgb fans on the rads, maybe i ll change the case fans with rgb ones later.

Push pull configurations have not been shown to make a lot of difference, aside from being noisier. Increasing noise levels by 40% to gain a 1-5 degree thermal benefit doesn't seem to make a lot of sense to me. In some cases I've actually seen thermal performance go down if the secondary fan isn't more capable than the primary fan once you factor in the restriction of the heatsink or radiator.
**The two answers i got contradicts each other on this subject. is there a healty source /tests etc on this? Maybe i should buy 2 noctua fans and just try to have the best results but where i live 1 noctua fan is nearly 50USD

Bottom line, air cooling is ALWAYS going to be quieter than water cooling until and unless they figure out how to get rid of pump noise entirely and still are able to maintain adequate movement of coolant. Plus, there is really no thermal advantage as there are always air coolers that can do the same job or better, usually for less money, than any equivalently priced AIO closed loop. Open loops are of course a whole other matter.
**i have no problem with the pump noise, i found it to be really quiet actually (only problem is that it has only 2 settings on the Corsair Link APP : Quiet (1800RPM)and Performance(2950RPM) something in the middle could have been nice.
 
1. As previously stated. It shouldn't matter.

2. I don't think this will matter much either. Above the radiator means that some of the exhaust is removed right away. Then again the radiator is partially obstructing air flow. Potentially reducing the fans efficiency. In the rear position there is no obstruction. So, it may generate more air flow. However, more of the CPU heat may affect the GPU. Also the two fans so close and at right angles may cause turbulence. Reducing fan efficiency.

3. I'm guessing the case fans are not PWM. Just be sure to get high static pressure PWM fans. The high static pressure is for dealing with air flow obstruction (radiator, filters, &c). PWM is so the speed varies on temperature. Thus noise varies on load. Corsair makes such fans. As you want Aura compliant. The Cooler Master Master Fan Pro Air Pressure is likely your best option.
http://eu.coolermaster.com/en/cooling/case-fan/masterfan-pro-120-ap/

4. Try out the CM fan I linked. It's probably enough. Using two fans may be quieter. As they can run at a lower RPM for the same performance. All you can do is test. Do an hour with OCCT in each config. See what the difference is in temperature and RPM.

5. Add another fan to the top. I'd say two if you ditch Spidey. I know it sounds counter intuitive. More fans mean more airflow. As long as the fans are PWM. That means they can run at a lower RPM for the same air movement. Many fans at a low RPM are quieter than one fan at very high RPM. I think power usage increase exponentially with RPM. Something like doubling the RPM equals octupling the power usage. Noise also increase exponentially.

Also, although others may disagree. I seal around the fan edges with aluminum ducting tape. So, there is no airflow loss. Such as at radiators and filters. I also direct airflow by sealing vents I don't want used. On the intakes I take special care to seal. So, I make sure air flow comes from outside the case, Through the filter and am certain none of the hot air in the case recirculates.
 


That is why I said maybe. How exactly did we contradict each other. I may be wrong or it may be a difference of opinion.
 
There is no such thing as ASUS compatible fans. There are only "fans", period. Some have RGB. Some are quieter than others. Some have higher or lower static pressure, but there are none that are just "compatible" with one brand or another. Fans are fans. They run off either straight 12v, are voltage controlled or are controlled by PWM.

What you "need" are fans of the same type as whatever you are connecting them to. If you are connecting them to an RGB header, then of course they need to have the appropriate connectors. If you are connecting them to a three pin voltage controlled header on the motherboard, then that is the type of fan you need. For others, a four pin PWM style fan will be necessary. All of which is generally determined by the header style or styles on your motherboard OR the fan hub you are using.

There is nothing on any fan that will make it or not make it, "ASUS" compatible. No such thing. Doesn't exist. That's a made up terminology.

Two fans can never be quieter than one fan. In order for that to be possible, one fan would have to either be completely noiseless, making no sound at all, ever, or you would need to limit the RPM of both fans to never exceed the RPM of the single fan configuration.

Adding a fan ALWAYS increases fan noise, at any given RPM. There is NOTHING that can change that. It is fundamental aerodynamics.


As far as the radiator positioning, that's your call. Following the directives in the manual is always a good idea, but I can assure you that thousands and thousands of people top mount their radiators which does NOT place the coolant lines at the bottom of the finstack, and they have no problems. It will certainly be likely to work better the way it was intended, but it is a sealed pressure system and unless there is an abnormal amount of air in the system it shouldn't make much difference if it was upside down, inside out or sideways.
 


If it says so in the manual. Perhaps the manufacturer is concerned about an air bubbles in the lines. Which could destroy the pump. I'd stick to what the manufacturer says. Why not place it in the rear of the case? Temp wise there shouldn't be much difference if your case has good air flow.
 
The only place I never recommend placing a radiator is at the top, in an intake configuration. So long as it is at the front in an intake configuration, at the top as an exhaust configuration or at the rear as an exhaust configuration, and there is otherwise sufficient airflow through the case, it should be fine.

There are lots of things that manufacturers recommend that do not hold up in reality. If you get technical about it, almost every case fan in existence that has any kind of sleeve bearing should not be placed in a horizontal position at the top of the case. Nearly every system in existence has one and does though.

It IS possible to have an air bubble issue with the radiator positioned that way, but truly, only if there is already significant air inside the system anyhow. I'd agree that it COULD create a pump issue if that were the case. Sometimes you have to make a judgement call. Perhaps there is some other way to get the lines out of your line of sight without doing that.

For small, single width radiators like that, if they fit, I'd almost always recommend mounting them on the rear exhaust.
 
1. As previously stated. It shouldn't matter.
Ok. nice to hear.

2. I don't think this will matter much either. Above the radiator means that some of the exhaust is removed right away. Then again the radiator is partially obstructing air flow. Potentially reducing the fans efficiency. In the rear position there is no obstruction. So, it may generate more air flow. However, more of the CPU heat may affect the GPU. Also the two fans so close and at right angles may cause turbulence. Reducing fan efficiency.
The reason i put it on the front is that there is a nice little rgb light which i like very much on the mobo, and if i move the radiator to the back it obstucts the light.

3. I'm guessing the case fans are not PWM. Just be sure to get high static pressure PWM fans. The high static pressure is for dealing with air flow obstruction (radiator, filters, &c). PWM is so the speed varies on temperature. Thus noise varies on load. Corsair makes such fans. As you want Aura compliant. The Cooler Master Master Fan Pro Air Pressure is likely your best option.
http://eu.coolermaster.com/en/cooling/case-fan/masterfan-pro-120-ap/
i dont know if they are pwm or not i ll check on the manufacturer website.

4. Try out the CM fan I linked. It's probably enough. Using two fans may be quieter. As they can run at a lower RPM for the same performance. All you can do is test. Do an hour with OCCT in each config. See what the difference is in temperature and RPM.
im looking in to it.

5. Add another fan to the top. I'd say two if you ditch Spidey. I know it sounds counter intuitive. More fans mean more airflow. As long as the fans are PWM. That means they can run at a lower RPM for the same air movement. Many fans at a low RPM are quieter than one fan at very high RPM. I think power usage increase exponentially with RPM. Something like doubling the RPM equals octupling the power usage. Noise also increase exponentially.

Also, although others may disagree. I seal around the fan edges with aluminum ducting tape. So, there is no airflow loss. Such as at radiators and filters. I also direct airflow by sealing vents I don't want used. On the intakes I take special care to seal. So, I make sure air flow comes from outside the case, Through the filter and am certain none of the hot air in the case recirculates.
i dont think i need to take such extreme measures since i dont have a problem with cooling.
 


sorry i wasnt tryng to sound like an asshat, the contradiction was that you said 2 fans can be quieter, and the other guy said 1 fan is quieter. its a difference of opinion like you said.
 
There is no such thing as ASUS compatible fans. There are only "fans", period. Some have RGB. Some are quieter than others. Some have higher or lower static pressure, but there are none that are just "compatible" with one brand or another. Fans are fans. They run off either straight 12v, are voltage controlled or are controlled by PWM.
What i meant was asus aura software.

What you "need" are fans of the same type as whatever you are connecting them to. If you are connecting them to an RGB header, then of course they need to have the appropriate connectors. If you are connecting them to a three pin voltage controlled header on the motherboard, then that is the type of fan you need. For others, a four pin PWM style fan will be necessary. All of which is generally determined by the header style or styles on your motherboard OR the fan hub you are using.
there is a fan hub on my case but i ditched it since i couldnt make it work, i just plugged all the fans to the mobo headers and control them via asus AI Suite. Before that every software i used was unable to control fan speeds.

There is nothing on any fan that will make it or not make it, "ASUS" compatible. No such thing. Doesn't exist. That's a made up terminology.
i was tryng to say asus aura rgb light controlling software.


Two fans can never be quieter than one fan. In order for that to be possible, one fan would have to either be completely noiseless, making no sound at all, ever, or you would need to limit the RPM of both fans to never exceed the RPM of the single fan configuration.

Adding a fan ALWAYS increases fan noise, at any given RPM. There is NOTHING that can change that. It is fundamental aerodynamics.
So getting one better fan to pull air into the rad or push air should reduce noise, cool.


As far as the radiator positioning, that's your call. Following the directives in the manual is always a good idea, but I can assure you that thousands and thousands of people top mount their radiators which does NOT place the coolant lines at the bottom of the finstack, and they have no problems. It will certainly be likely to work better the way it was intended, but it is a sealed pressure system and unless there is an abnormal amount of air in the system it shouldn't make much difference if it was upside down, inside out or sideways.
Thank you for clearing that up. i was doubting this because i have seen many case configs in which some corsair aoi's installed upside down e.t.c.

 
the only place I never recommend placing a radiator is at the top, in an intake configuration. So long as it is at the front in an intake configuration, at the top as an exhaust configuration or at the rear as an exhaust configuration, and there is otherwise sufficient airflow through the case, it should be fine.
The porlbem with that is my case is not really high, and i tried to install it on the top but it looked bad. but i get what you are saying. pulling air from the front of the case is really not that viable for this case because of the giant aluminum piece on the front of the case. i know its childish but it looks cool and i like it, and i spent a lot for a cool looking case and set up, so i will go with the front probably.

There are lots of things that manufacturers recommend that do not hold up in reality. If you get technical about it, almost every case fan in existence that has any kind of sleeve bearing should not be placed in a horizontal position at the top of the case. Nearly every system in existence has one and does though.
lol

It IS possible to have an air bubble issue with the radiator positioned that way, but truly, only if there is already significant air inside the system anyhow. I'd agree that it COULD create a pump issue if that were the case. Sometimes you have to make a judgement call. Perhaps there is some other way to get the lines out of your line of sight without doing that.
i think i ll take the risk and hope for the best.


For small, single width radiators like that, if they fit, I'd almost always recommend mounting them on the rear exhaust.
The reason i put it on the front is that there is a nice little rgb light which i like very much on the mobo, and if i move the radiator to the back it obstucts the light. So again my urge for a cool looking set up =)
 
So I totally understand WHY you have configured things the way you have, and find no fault with your decisions. It is YOUR system and you can do AS you wish. Especially since you DO understand that because of your aesthetic choices some potential functionality or performance might be slightly compromised. I don't think it necessarily IS to any significant degree, so it's all good.

If radiators were to show a major, significant performance advantage using a push pull configuration, then some manufacturers at least would offer packages that include enough fans to do that. None do that I'm aware of. Frostytech, SilentPCreview, Tom's hardware and many other sites have done testing with these kinds of configurations and to the best of my knowledge none have ever shown more than very minimal gains from these types of setups, and they always result in higher noise levels unless you manually limit the fans to a lower RPM which of course diminishes the potential cooling performance and negates the whole point of doing it in the first place.

Can you eek out a couple degrees, maybe 1-4°C by using push pull. Probably, in some cases, IF you use the right combination of fans with a high CFM fan on the exhaust side of the radiator or heatsink and a high static pressure fan on the push/intake side. I don't think it's worth the effort, cost or extra noise though.

Many people choose looks over performance, and there is nothing wrong with that. Nothing wrong with the opposite either.

And contrary to some opinions expressed here, I would never include any Cooler Master fan in a conversation that involved HIGH quality, low noise fans with great or exceptional performance characteristics. The fan used on the 212 EVO is a decent high static pressure fan for a budget CPU cooler, but it is loud.

Even their Masterfan Pro series units have only about 1.5mm H20, which is NOT what I'd call high static pressure. Anything below 1.75mm, at the LEAST, I do not see as being suitable for use on a radiator or heatsink if good static pressure levels are called for, which generally, if you want them to perform well and last long, they are.

Even most Cougar 120mm Vortex PWM fans have better static pressure and noise levels at an equal RPM than those Coolermaster Masterfans. Looking closely at specs will lead you to good fan choices MOST of the time. Still, I'll agree there are definitely worse fans out there than the CM units IF you have to have RGB lighting as well. Personally, if I HAD to have a very good high quality fan AND have RGB, the Corsair Maglev fans would likely be the ones I'd look at.

And I would definitely not consider myself a Corsair fan, no pun intended, so that's saying something about the quality and performance of those fans. I've not used them, but reviews and feedback on them are pretty good.

Personally, I almost exclusively stick to Noctua products, but alas, no RGB to be had there.
 
So I totally understand WHY you have configured things the way you have, and find no fault with your decisions. It is YOUR system and you can do AS you wish. Especially since you DO understand that because of your aesthetic choices some potential functionality or performance might be slightly compromised. I don't think it necessarily IS to any significant degree, so it's all good.
guilty pleasures man =)


If radiators were to show a major, significant performance advantage using a push pull configuration, then some manufacturers at least would offer packages that include enough fans to do that. None do that I'm aware of. Frostytech, SilentPCreview, Tom's hardware and many other sites have done testing with these kinds of configurations and to the best of my knowledge none have ever shown more than very minimal gains from these types of setups, and they always result in higher noise levels unless you manually limit the fans to a lower RPM which of course diminishes the potential cooling performance and negates the whole point of doing it in the first place.
didnt expect this result

Can you eek out a couple degrees, maybe 1-4°C by using push pull. Probably, in some cases, IF you use the right combination of fans with a high CFM fan on the exhaust side of the radiator or heatsink and a high static pressure fan on the push/intake side. I don't think it's worth the effort, cost or extra noise though.
yeah like you said, i would probably go a different way if i was a power user.


Many people choose looks over performance, and there is nothing wrong with that. Nothing wrong with the opposite either.
totally agree

And contrary to some opinions expressed here, I would never include any Cooler Master fan in a conversation that involved HIGH quality, low noise fans with great or exceptional performance characteristics. The fan used on the 212 EVO is a decent high static pressure fan for a budget CPU cooler, but it is loud.
i was really surprised to hear about a coolermaster fan to be honest. i thought "maybe" i looked in to it and it was a fairly cheap alternative. 27 USD on amazon (including shipping and tax to my country)

Even their Masterfan Pro series units have only about 1.5mm H20, which is NOT what I'd call high static pressure. Anything below 1.75mm, at the LEAST, I do not see as being suitable for use on a radiator or heatsink if good static pressure levels are called for, which generally, if you want them to perform well and last long, they are.

Even most Cougar 120mm Vortex PWM fans have better static pressure and noise levels at an equal RPM than those Coolermaster Masterfans. Looking closely at specs will lead you to good fan choices MOST of the time. Still, I'll agree there are definitely worse fans out there than the CM units IF you have to have RGB lighting as well. Personally, if I HAD to have a very good high quality fan AND have RGB, the Corsair Maglev fans would likely be the ones I'd look at.
i gave up on the idea to have RGB fans on my radiator after the information i got from you and other ppl here. i will probably go with a noctua which will be pushing air thru the radiator so that it will stay hidden behind the giant aluminum front of my case

And I would definitely not consider myself a Corsair fan, no pun intended, so that's saying something about the quality and performance of those fans. I've not used them, but reviews and feedback on them are pretty good.

Personally, I almost exclusively stick to Noctua products, but alas, no RGB to be had there.
ah yes so its concluded. i'm gonna remove the corsair stock radiator fans and replace with a single hidden noctua. And if/when i want more RGB i 'll go get myself some Corsair Maglev RGB Fans (ML120 PRO RGB LED 120MM PWM Premium Magnetic Levitation Fan) because probably LL120 RGB 120mm Dual Light Loop RGB LED PWM Fan isnt maglev?
SO on the radiator; should i go with a Noctua industrial NF F12, noctua redux NF S12B or NF s12A or another one?
THank you for the time you spent answering me, i'd buy you a beer if i could.
 
If you want ONE very high performance fan, that will likely be quieter than most other single fans solutions and definitely quieter than any halfway decent two fan solution that I'm aware of, you would be hard pressed to find anything better than this. These have nearly double the static pressure of MOST fans that come with the majority of AIO packages or are marketed as supposedly "high static pressure" case fans while still achieving far lower noise levels at equivalent RPMs. If you allow the fan curve to go beyond the 1500rpm range then of course you'll see somewhat higher noise levels than for some of the other Noctua F12 models, but you'll also see higher performance, which means better cooling, which means LESS likely to need to go to that speed in the first place.

In other words, if these fans go to an RPM where they are louder than any other Noctua or silent type fan with equivalent performance, it's because they NEED to, due to a thermal condition or perhaps an undesirable fan profile setting, which then might require some fine tuning to get the balance of reaction, performance and noise level you are wanting to dial in.

https://www.amazon.com/Bearing-NF-F12-iPPC-2000-PWM/dp/B00KFCR5BA
 


The CM Master Fan Pro Air Pressure RGB series is listed as 4.6 mmH20 in P Mode, the 1.45 mmH20 is only when in S Mode.. While I agree Cooler Master is not the best. As the OP wanted Aura Sync compliance and noise control. This was the best of the lot I could find. It holds up quite well against a Noctua NF-F12 IPPC-3000 PWM.
http://thermalbench.com/2016/08/30/cooler-master-masterfan-pro-120-air-pressure/3/
 
Based on that data they look impressive. Funny thing though is that I've never seen anybody reference ANY review from thermalbench in the past NOR have I come across them in any of my data gathering of other fan reviews/testing. I'll have to look into that a bit further as due to the VERY extensive and expensive nature of the equipment required for accurate fan testing I find it hard to trust a site that i've not heard about even in the circles that primarily discuss ONLY such things.

No offense to your link, or their blog, I'm sure they've tried to be as accurate as they could, but considering I see no mention of the specifics of their test methodology, no proof of anechoic chamber as used by Silentpcreview and other trustworthy fan reviewers, no mention of pressure to volume necessary for an accurate assessment of true fan characteristics and real world specifications and the absence of a very high end differential manometer, then the conclusions drawn by that review are at least questionable and at worst, really shaky.

Still, I did NOT see anywhere in the listed Cooler Master specs on it's product page where it indicated different specs for different modes, so that is interesting, however, again there is a need to understand that some manufacturers take VERY liberal policies towards the listing of their product specs and Cooler Master is among those best known for a lot of "fudging" the facts.

For the price though, they do seem to be a lot better than some other options in the same bracket.

I personally wouldn't own a single Cooler Master aftermarket product aside from possibly one or three of it's case models and even then only if the price was right and the build criteria not particularly stringent. I've owned three CM cases, and while they served their purpose, having owned, used and built systems with at least forty to fifty other brands of cases I definitely don't gravitate towards them over others when sourcing parts.

Given that I did say that the selection of good fans was pretty limited when it comes to RGB models though, they are probably worth a nod, again, especially given the price. Certainly for budget restricted builds they should, at least until I can verify otherwise, be a consideration. End of CM bashing.
 


ok my last question sorry to bother. whats the difference with the 3000 and 2000RPM models of those fans. (im asking because where i live i have found the 3000 RPM ones http://www.sanalmarketim.com/Urun/Noctua-NF-F12-industrialPPC-3000-PWM-120mm-3000Rpm-Kasa-Fani/39759?ref=akakce&v=0.35.7)
should i prefere the 2000 RPM one or the 3000 RPM one? is it logical to use a 3000RPM fan on silent mode for better/silent results in my case?
 
The 3000rpm model is usually more expensive and top speeds are louder. If you tailor the fan curve correctly there should be no issue with using that. If you are unable to create a custom fan curve it might be a bit too much really. If you can, should be fine.
 
Solution


Now I see the discrepancy. I did not catch it until now. I was looking at the regular Air Pressure which has a mode switch. The RGB variants performance appears to be permanently placed in S Mode. The switch was instead used to control the LED lighting between solid colors and RGB mode. It boggles the mind why Cooler Master made this decision. They could have been ahead of the RGB competition by having good airflow in restricted environments. While allowing users to make use of motherboard RGB headers. Rather than being stuck with a separate controller or rewiring themselves. Instead they gutted its performance. Even though P Mode could support 650 to 2750 RPM via PWM.

C'est la vie. There doesn't appear to be any good RGB fan in the Aura compatibility list.
 
Yeah, I was confused because I only saw the one spec there but was willing to take your word for it at least for now. Glad you pointed out that that was only for the non-RGB models. I agree that it seems to be a case of them shooting themselves in the foot but that's nothing new.
 


https://imgur.com/zAyHHz3
So this is the case's latest config now. i have uninstalled the pull fan of the AOI, turned it around.
(i was stupid enough to install the back radiator fan as an exhaust instead of a push, i fixed it. So the whole time the fans on the radiator both pulling air. lol.)

i'm really not sure about the hose positions now they intertwine, i might move it to the top (instead of the case fan on top) and spidey had to leave kylo moved in, which makes better sense.
Gonna get myself a Noctua https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bearing-NF-F12-iPPC-2000-PWM/dp/B00KFCR5BA?tag=skim0x3152-21
Any other tips/trics for me man?
 
Wait, what?

They were BOTH blowing towards the center of the radiator? Oh, well that would definitely cause poor cooling performance.

If you move it to the top, be sure to change the fan configuration so that it is setup to be an exhaust radiator configuration. Intakes at the top defeat standard best practices of front/bottom as intake and rear/top as exhaust.