Costly new build. No monitor signal. Strange startup.

[MajesticFailure]

Components of Self-Build PC (all brand new):

Motherboard: ASRock X99 Extreme4/3.1
CPU: Intel Core i7-5820k [PURCHASED FROM FROM A PRIVATE SELLER ON EBAY, UNOPENED PACKAGING THOUGH]
CPU Cooler: CoolerMaster Hyper 212x
GPU: EVGA GeForce GTX 950 SC (NVIDIA, Superclocked, 2GB, GDDR5) [PURCHASED FROM FROM A PRIVATE SELLER ON EBAY, UNOPENED PACKAGING THOUGH]
RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws 4 Series 32GB (4 x 8GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 2400 (PC4 19200) Desktop Memory Model F4-2400C15Q-32GR (quad channel)
HDD: Western Digital WD10EZEX 1TB SATA lll Desktop SATA Drive - Blue
SSD: PNY CS2211 2.5" 480GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) SSD7CS2211-480-RB
PSU: Corsair CX600M (this is semi-modular, although tbh l have used just about all the cables it came with)
DVDRW: Samsung SH-224FB/RSMS 24X Internal DVD Writer with SATA
Monitor: BenQ GW2765HT Black 27" 4ms HDMI Widescreen LED Backlight LCD Monitor IPS



Connections:

The PSU is connected to the DVDRW, the SSD, the HDD, and the GPU.
The GPU is connected to the PCI 3 lane (PCIE 1), the first PCI lane on the mobo.
The HDD and SSD are connected to SATA ports on the mobo.
The DVDRW is connected to the USB 3.0 header on the mobo.
The PSU is connected to the 24-pin ATX Power Connector (ATXPWR1) on the mobo.



Problem:

The PC would not output a signal to my Benq monitor (nor a second monitor l got from a charity shop, connected via an adapter) at any of the following stages (even though l have a self-booting Linux disc in the optical drive - there are no POST error noises):

(1) First, the PC would power up, abruptly cut out after about 4 seconds, then power up again and stay on.

(2) Then l changed the GPU connection to the PSU by removing the twin molex cables (required for some PSUs l think, it was actually compatible with my PSU anyhow) connected to the GPU's 6-pin (?) connector, and l connected the PSU directly to the GPU via the GPU's 6-pin (?) connector. Then, the PC would power up and stay powered up.

(3) Then l attached the PSU 8-pin connector to the 8-pin ATX 12V connector on the mobo, near the CPU (in *addition* to the existing PSU connection to the 24-pin ATX Power Connector on the mobo), and the PC went back to powering up, staying on for about 4 seconds, before abruptly cutting out and then automatically powering up again and this time staying powered up.


Please could somebody advise on what has gone wrong. I feel that either something is DOA, or more than 1 thing is DOA, and / or l'm just doing something wrong anyway?

Please note: the HDD and SDD are blank.

EDIT: Just remembered: I don't have an internal speaker, so that'll by why l hear no POST beeps. Could l get POST beeps via external speakers?

 

[alexoiu]

If starting the board with only CPU and CPU fan installed,l both 24 and 8 pin power cables connected, still same restarts?

 

[MajesticFailure]

Hi! I took the PC to a computer shop. They changed the graphics card and connected the PC to their own monitor. Still no signal. I think the problem is the mobo. I had to tell the online retailer of the mobo the BIOS version and the other components attached to the mobo, and all is compatible. They also want photos of the CPU plate to check for damaged pins (wonky / broken). Coming to think of it, that would explain it all, but no, there are no damaged pins. They also want photos of the entire mobo so l must get to work clearing everything off the mobo.

In my hurry to comply, l completely forgot your suggestion that l was actually planning to try before disassembling the mobo! Sadly, l've removed the CPU and CPU cooler now.

Thanks for your attempt to help. What do you think the problem might be btw? If it were a faulty PSU, then surely the PC would at least start, but keep cutting off abruptly, right? And perhaps not even switch on again?

In my case, it starts up for about 4 seconds, then switches off, then starts back up again and stays on. But no video output, ever.

Bad mobo?

 

[alexoiu]

Hard to say, since CPU and card bought from ebay...

 

[MajesticFailure]

Hi,

The CPU and card both came retail packaged (shrink packaged, ostensibly never before opened), albeit bought from eBay. As for the card, the computer shop l visited swapped it for their own card, and still the problem persisted (they used their own computer monitor too).

 

[alexoiu]

Let's see then if a new board will solve the issue.

 

[MajesticFailure]

Hi, l really am having doubts about the CPU. But anyway, l have some news.

I bread boarded the mobo (seeing as l was extracting it from the case anyway). I had:

CPU (no cooler, no fans)
2 sticks of RAM, then all 4 sticks.
GPU
Mobo
+ power button, reset button, etc. and internal speaker that l purchased, connected to mobo


I had taken the ATX12V1 connection out and then put it back in, and this time, as it was out of the case, l managed to press harder and l believe l heard a click, or more like a snap sound.

Result: setup now powers fully on without switching off again and then on again (but this could be because no HDD / SSD / DVDRW connected, right?)

Woohoo. I connected the monitor to the GPU. Still no signal. I changed the GPU to a different PCI lane. Still no signal. Realised l hadn't connected PSU to GPU, so l connected it. Still no signal.

THEN... setup started switching off suddenly. Then l switched it on again, and it shortly thereafter switched off again. Each time it switched off, it never started again (unlike my problem in the OP, where it would start again automatically, and stay on, no problem).

Had enough, dismantled setup again. Noticed CPU was too hot to touch for more than 2 seconds. I would therefore estimate temperature to be 70-100C (can't be more accurate). Perhaps the CPU overheating was causing the PSU to shut down? Or ... perhaps because l had finally connected the ATX12V1 supply to the CPU (instead of perhaps not doing it properly when it was still in the case), the PSU was getting drained too much (note: the GPU fan kept switching off after being on, too, and l'm pretty sure the GPU fan would switch off while the power light on the case was still on).

It looks a lot like the PSU is faulty right? Should a PSU fan be on when there is power going to it and when the PSU is actually switched on? Because, when the entire setup would cut out, the PSU fan would also stop, even though all switches were still on. So, faulty PSU?

 

[Tradesman1]

Don't want to start up the rig with no CPU cooler, that's asking for problems. Also make sure you connect the ATX power line to the mobo and not a GPU PCI-E 8 pin, sort of sounds like that might have happend, that can fry the mobo. The 8 pin on your PSU to the mobo should be clearly marked as CPU, another thing it might be is the PSU itself, most builders I know won't touch the CX line as they are made with weak caps and here are underpowered, the CX600M only carries about 550 W on the 12 volt rail

 

[MajesticFailure]

Hi, l reckon you're right there, the CPU [over?]heated so fast, even though l didn't have the PC on for long. That might be the cause of the shutdowns when l've been bread boarding (thanks Intel, for not including a stock cooler with the CPU).

As for the ATX power, that's a 24-pin socket on the mobo. The additional ATX12V1 socket is 8-pin. The power socket on the GPU is 6-pin. It requires that power as it's a big massive thing.

Interesting what you have to say about the CX PSUs. Even 550W should have been plenty for my system though. I reckon 400W would have been enough for my system, as there's no overclocking or anything. Do the weak caps on the CX line make it liable to go caput?

 

[MajesticFailure]

I mean, surely 400W would be enough to just start the computer and give me a visual display of the startup, on the monitor?

 

[Tradesman1]

Could yes, they had a video floating around here somewhere of one exploding, have had calls on a couple that went snap, crackle, pop

 

[MajesticFailure]

The Corsair CXs had fine reviews all over the internet. I'm shocked.

 

[Tradesman1]

Might look at some of the PSU tier list, most place the CX PSU in tier 3 or 4, since the PSU can be considered a major component, you don't want to go cheap on the PSU, if it goes it tends to fry other components when it does. As far as 'reviews' - you'll seldom see a bad review on components, need to know how to read the reviews. A bad review can mean your publicaton, website or whatever, may never get anything else from that manufacturer and can also lead to loss of advertising revenue.

 

[MajesticFailure]

Just read of a CX600M exploding while idle, on newegg. Scary. So, what would you recommend for max. £70 (GBP)? I need 500W-650W (currently on the 600W model ofc).

I *think* l need it to be capable of ATX12V as well, since my mobo has the ATX12V1 CPU power socket.

Would also like some form of Haswell-readiness.

 

[Tradesman1]

Where about's do you shop? (Sorry, I'm in the States)

 

[MajesticFailure]

Oww. Well, l don't want to give my supplier a bad name (not yet anyway), so l'll PM you their name, brb. Feel free to name any model though (l'm in the UK if that's what you meant).

EDIT: PM sent

 

[MajesticFailure]

Just seen your PSU tier list 2.0: http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/id-2547993/psu-tier-list.html

Here is what l am looking to buy from my supplier (just one unit from the list, of course):

TIER 1:
Corsair RM650i RMi Series 650 Watt Fully Modular Power Supply Unit (80 Plus Gold Certified) - £90.99 <--- GOLD
EVGA 650W G2 Fully Modular 80+ PSU - £90.99 [note: unsure if it has a connector for ATX12V1] <--- GOLD


TIER 2:
Antec Edge 650w 80 Plus Gold PSU - £117.20

EVGA Super Nova 750 B2 750W Bronze Semi Modular Power Supply - £78.54 <--- BRONZE
EVGA Supernova 750W Fully Modular 80+ Gold Power Supply - £91.98
Fractal Design Edison M Series (750w) Power Supply Unit - £79.48 <--- GOLD
ROSEWILL Capstone G Series 650W Modular Power Supply 80+ Gold Certified - £89.68 <--- GOLD
Seasonic G750 750W 80+ Gold Certified PSU Semi Modular Jap Caps DBB Fan - £94 <--- GOLD

 

[MajesticFailure]

Which do you think would be the best buy from the above selection?
I'm thinking Fractal Design Edison M (750W) [Tier Two]
OR
EVGA 650W G2 Fully Modular 80+ PSU [Tier One]


Points of confusion:

* What does it mean when an online retailer sells an "ex-display" version of one of the items listed? Surely online retailers don't have shop displays? So what is *really* meant by "ex-display"? Thrown down the stairs by the previous buyer?

* When you have a 650W and a 750W version of the same brand and model PSU, and the 650W version costs 15% *more* than the 750W version, even though the 750W version has more leads (l discovered this by flipping between open tabs with each item listed on a tab, and keeping an eye out for the faintest discrepancy in the advert text between the two tabs - that was l think the only visible discrepancy - the number of leads bundled), where's the catch?

 

[Tradesman1]

The G2 is what I think I'd go with. Normally an 'ex'display' is something they had out of the box for people to see, or may have had it in a rig on display, and often is discounted. Price often can vary based on demand, i.e. the 650 may sell better so they may mark it up to get a little more profit, might mark one up to make people 'think' it is better, sometimes they may mark DOWN if it's a discontinued model or they just have a bunch and they aren't selling

 

[MajesticFailure]

Thank you for your help + thank you to the ppl that maintain the PSU Tier List (potential life saver). I think this thread may as well go into hiatus now while l do my RMA-ing.

 

[MajesticFailure]

I now have a new mobo and a new PSU.


The mobo is still the same brand, but this time the PSU is an EVGA Supernova Gold 650W completely modular PSU.
All other components are the same, as per the OP.


I have breadboarded the setup as follows:

CPU
CPU Cooler + cooler fan attached
GPU
The case's front panel leads go into the correct socket.
The PSU leads go to the main 24-pin input, the smaller 8-pin ATX12V socket near CPU, and the 6-pin GPU socket.


I switched it on with zero ram, got an indefinite cycle of: [3 long post beeps, then a pause]

Same with 1 RAM stick, then 2 RAM sticks.

Still no monitor signal.

GPU fan starts up with each power up, but switches off after approx. 30 seconds, and jolts when i eventually switch the power off using the case's front panel power button. Could this be a mere power-saving feature with the GPU, seeing as it's outputting no video?


N E X T :

Then the following actions failed to give video output as well:

-- Remove GPU
-- Remove both of the RAM sticks used and use the other 2 sticks
-- Replace GPU, taking care that it slots in correctly


N E X T :

I cannot find the beep codes for this mobo, how very odd.

The specs are here: http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/X99%20Extreme43.1/?cat=Specifications

Quote:
"- 2 x 128Mb AMI UEFI Legal BIOS with multilingual GUI support (1 x Main BIOS and 1 x Backup BIOS)
- Supports Secure Backup UEFI Technology
- ACPI 5.0 Compliant wake up events
- SMBIOS 2.7 Support
- CPU, DRAM, PCH 1.05V, PCH 1.5V, VPPM Voltage Multi-adjustment"


So, l Googled for AMI UEFI Legal BIOS, and the closest match l can find is this: http://www.asrock.com/support/faq.asp?id=286

from the year 2011 :-/

*** ASRock have also now emailed to give me the following URL, which gives an identical beep code table in fact an identical page: http://asrock.nl/support/faq.asp?id=286 ****

I'm certain the beeps don't actually add up to a specific amount, as l counted them beyond 8 or 9 sets of 3 long beeps, and no code has that many total beeps. Ostensibly, it cycles forever.


Here is what the beep code table says:

Without memory 3 long beeps 53
That is, the Debug Code is 53 (whatever that means).

Anybody have a clue what is wrong?


N E X T :

I then inserted the full complement of 4 RAM sticks in the proper slots.

I started the PC up, and this time, there are no beeps, not even a congratulatory one (although, according to http://www.asrock.com/support/faq.asp?id=286 , zero beep could be a successful startup).

Still no monitor signal.

And yep, the monitor is fine with other computers.

Any clues? GPU bust? RAM bust? CPU bust?

 

[MajesticFailure]

Btw, the setup now stays on, when it powers on, but as explained, still no video output.

 

[MajesticFailure]

Hi guys, l have an update. I'm on my replacement ASRock X99 Extreme4/3.1 mobo, but:

- I used a new GPU (and did all the following with that new GPU). Still no video.

- I checked all front panel leads, arranged them on the front panel header as per ASRock's further instructions (manual was way ambiguous). Still, no video.

- Tested a new RAM stick, but l get the 3 long beeps when powering up. As you may recall, these 3 beeps disappear when all 4 RAM sticks are added in the black RAM slots. Still no video.

- I even did a CMOS reset. it took 5 seconds, as per the ASRock mobo manual. Still no video.





I'd like to say now that l'm on my second mobo, that it's the CPU. But why the 3 beeps when there's only 1 RAM, which disappears when there's all 4 RAMs in (filling the black slots, where there's 4 x blue slots and 4 x black slots)?

N.B. the beep codes are here: http://www.asrock.com/support/faq.asp?id=286

 

[MajesticFailure]

UPDATE: Solved after 10th (and proper?) CMOS reset. WHEW that was an odyssey. Never again l tell you.

 

[Saga Lout]

It's unconventional and I have my doubts about doing it but, at your request on an alert to the Mods, I have marked your last post as the Best Answer to this thread.