Could these voltages be causing me stutter?

[Bradleyvarol]

I understand that the voltages are able to be ~5% variation, but surely they should be a little closer.
I am getting stuttering issues in Windows/games. It's not my GPU.

Thanks

 

[Cristi72]

Hello,

At first sight, the problem is CPU related: its voltage is pretty high (it is overclocked?), the CPU' fan speed is too low (what cooler are you using?) and the CPU TDP is under its 88W limit. Try to lower the CPU speed and voltage.

What CPU/GPU usage do you have when stuttering occures?

Please post your entire system configuration (PSU + GPU included).

 

[Bradleyvarol]

Hello,

At first sight, the problem is CPU related: its voltage is pretty high (it is overclocked?), the CPU' fan speed is too low (what cooler are you using?) and the CPU TDP is under its 88W limit. Try to lower the CPU speed and voltage.

What CPU/GPU usage do you have when stuttering occures?

Please post your entire system configuration (PSU + GPU included).

I am using an i5-4690K, OC from 3.5 to 4.3GHz. I am using a Scythe Mugen 4 Cooler, and the fan speed is controlled with Speedfan. The temperatures only exceed 60'C when benchmarking, so i don't believe that this is a problem. Regarding the TDP, i don't understand this, so feel free to educate me. The CPU has not been overvolted, and is still at stock voltages.
My GPU is a EVGA GTX 780, overclocked with +100MHz Core, and +400 Memory.

Please read my other post, which is about the stuttering!:
http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/answers/id-2512740/stuttering-windows-games.html

Thank you

 

[Cristi72]

I am using an i5-4690K, OC from 3.5 to 4.3GHz. I am using a Scythe Mugen 4 Cooler, and the fan speed is controlled with Speedfan. The temperatures only exceed 60'C when benchmarking, so i don't believe that this is a problem. Regarding the TDP, i don't understand this, so feel free to educate me. The CPU has not been overvolted, and is still at stock voltages.
My GPU is a EVGA GTX 780, overclocked with +100MHz Core, and +400 Memory.

Please read my other post, which is about the stuttering!:
http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/answers/id-2512740/stuttering-windows-games.html

Thank you

Well, the CPU voltage is definitely NOT the stock value (it should hover around 1-1,1V) and is close to the 1,3V limit (safe Vcore value recommended for Haswell CPUs). Try to load BIOS default values and see if the CPU voltage value is lower and the stutters stops. If it's not working, clear the CMOS memory (also called the BIOS reset or Factory reset; follow the procedure exactly as described by the motherboard's manual). Try also to reduce or even disable GPU overclocking, see if it changes anything.

Did you disable the Turbo Boost feature from BIOS? Be aware that Turbo feature is pretty much useless when overclocking, as the maximum speed will be attained only for single or lightly threaded applications (and sometimes unnecesary raises the voltage; it could be your case). Also, disable all power saving features when overclocking.

TDP (Thermal Design Power) is the maximum power the CPU can dissipate (hence converted in heat) at full throttle. If BIOS has a fixed cap for the TDP, then the CPU throttles down when its consumption surpass that limit. Your CPU's TDP is 88W, so when overclocking the cap should be fixed at higher values. I am not very familiar with newer ASRock BIOS, so I don't know if it allows the user to change the TDP limit.

I asked you about the CPU/GPU usage, it's a good start trouble shooting the problem. If CPU/GPU usage is low, maybe the fault is somewhere else; as stated in your other thread, it could be a software-related problem (SATA / chipset / Ethernet drivers, antivirus/antimalware, motherboard utility, etc.), or even a faulty HDD/SSD. Disable HDD/SSD sleep mode and don't use HD Saver software (uninstall it, if it is installed). Also, don't use XFast RAM or XFast LAN features. Try not to use both BIOS overclocking and A-Tuning software.

 

[Bradleyvarol]

I am using an i5-4690K, OC from 3.5 to 4.3GHz. I am using a Scythe Mugen 4 Cooler, and the fan speed is controlled with Speedfan. The temperatures only exceed 60'C when benchmarking, so i don't believe that this is a problem. Regarding the TDP, i don't understand this, so feel free to educate me. The CPU has not been overvolted, and is still at stock voltages.
My GPU is a EVGA GTX 780, overclocked with +100MHz Core, and +400 Memory.

Please read my other post, which is about the stuttering!:
http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/answers/id-2512740/stuttering-windows-games.html

Thank you

Well, the CPU voltage is definitely NOT the stock value (it should hover around 1-1,1V) and is close to the 1,3V limit (safe Vcore value recommended for Haswell CPUs). Try to load BIOS default values and see if the CPU voltage value is lower and the stutters stops. If it's not working, clear the CMOS memory (also called the BIOS reset or Factory reset; follow the procedure exactly as described by the motherboard's manual). Try also to reduce or even disable GPU overclocking, see if it changes anything.

Did you disable the Turbo Boost feature from BIOS? Be aware that Turbo feature is pretty much useless when overclocking, as the maximum speed will be attained only for single or lightly threaded applications (and sometimes unnecesary raises the voltage; it could be your case). Also, disable all power saving features when overclocking.

TDP (Thermal Design Power) is the maximum power the CPU can dissipate (hence converted in heat) at full throttle. If BIOS has a fixed cap for the TDP, then the CPU throttles down when its consumption surpass that limit. Your CPU's TDP is 88W, so when overclocking the cap should be fixed at higher values. I am not very familiar with newer ASRock BIOS, so I don't know if it allows the user to change the TDP limit.

I asked you about the CPU/GPU usage, it's a good start trouble shooting the problem. If CPU/GPU usage is low, maybe the fault is somewhere else; as stated in your other thread, it could be a software-related problem (SATA / chipset / Ethernet drivers, antivirus/antimalware, motherboard utility, etc.), or even a faulty HDD/SSD. Disable HDD/SSD sleep mode and don't use HD Saver software (uninstall it, if it is installed). Also, don't use XFast RAM or XFast LAN features. Try not to use both BIOS overclocking and A-Tuning software.

Okay, thanks for your reply. Last night I ran a memtest for one of my 8GB ram sticks. I swapped the ram sticks over and will be running memtest tonight. So note that the ram stick currently being used has not been tested. Following your instructions, here's what I did:

- Removed the CMOS battery, held the power button for 10 seconds, replaced the battery,
- Applied DEFAULT UEFI settings,
- Enabled "CPU OC Fixed Mode",
- Enabled the XMP profile,
- Changed the VCORE mode from Auto to Override (I believe this is essentially fixing the voltage),
- Disabled C States (Power savings).

After booting, I checked my VCORE, and sure enough it is now not fluctuating. Take a look:

But the stuttering is still there, as you can here:
http://www3.zippyshare.com/d/yM3NDSFc/46910/Metro%20Redux%2002.02.2015%20-%2018.49.59.04.mp4

Thanks.

 

[Cristi72]

After booting, I checked my VCORE, and sure enough it is now not fluctuating...

But the stuttering is still there...

The best way to use CPU-Z is to start the program right after the boot, do a screenshot, let it running in the background and do another screenshot after some time (1 hour of watching Youtube or gaming for example).

In your case, I don't see any GPU usage (GPU min / max voltage / temperature are the same, as the system was using only the on-board HD4600 instead of the GTX780). Also, the PSU's voltages are too stable and pretty high for the +12V rail (what PSU is it?).

EDIT: well, well, I just observed you are using a Samsung 840 EVO 😀.Test it, see if your SSD is still as fast as advertised (use ATTO or its own Samsung Magician). It is unfortunate that none of us asked you before to post your complete system' specifications, it could be easier to find the problem.

 

[Bradleyvarol]

After booting, I checked my VCORE, and sure enough it is now not fluctuating...

But the stuttering is still there...

The best way to use CPU-Z is to start the program right after the boot, do a screenshot, let it running in the background and do another screenshot after some time (1 hour of watching Youtube or gaming for example).

In your case, I don't see any GPU usage (GPU min / max voltage / temperature are the same, as the system was using only the on-board HD4600 instead of the GTX780). Also, the PSU's voltages are too stable and pretty high for the +12V rail (what PSU is it?).

EDIT: well, well, I just observed you are using a Samsung 840 EVO 😀.Test it, see if your SSD is still as fast as advertised (use ATTO or its own Samsung Magician). It is unfortunate that none of us asked you before to post your complete system' specifications, it could be easier to find the problem.

Here are my specs:
- ASRock Extreme4 z97,
- Intel i5-4690K,
- G.SKILL Ripjaws X 16GB 2133MHz CAS9,
- EVGA GTX 780 3GB,
- Seasonic Platinum 1000W,
- WD 1TB HDDs x2,
- Samsung EVO 120GB SSD.

And yes, this was immediately after startup. It has been running since that post (1hr45), here's a screenshot now:

I have been using Youtube, VLC player, Steam, but not gaming. I will play Counter Strike GO now as that does not seem to stutter much. I will then post back some more screenshots. Would you like me to stresstest the gpu and include some screenshots of various GPU stats? - I really doubt this is a GPU issue. I am thinking of disconnecting the GPU ATX power cables, running the pc and seeing if youtube still stutters. Am i able to benchmark the Intel Graphics?

My PSU is a Seasonic Platinum 1000W (excessive, i know). The PSU (at least i think it's the PSU, not tested anything) seems to make a high frequency sound. It becomes rather annoying, but it's not Coil Whine and is random as opposed to dependent on my PC usage. - I don't think that this is related to the stuttering. But i thought i'd throw it out there, not to complicate things!

What would you like me to do here:

It might also be worth me mentioning that I am using an external USB soundcard. - I should try running the pc with only a mouse and keyboard connected.

 

[Bradleyvarol]

After booting, I checked my VCORE, and sure enough it is now not fluctuating...

But the stuttering is still there...

The best way to use CPU-Z is to start the program right after the boot, do a screenshot, let it running in the background and do another screenshot after some time (1 hour of watching Youtube or gaming for example).

In your case, I don't see any GPU usage (GPU min / max voltage / temperature are the same, as the system was using only the on-board HD4600 instead of the GTX780). Also, the PSU's voltages are too stable and pretty high for the +12V rail (what PSU is it?).

EDIT: well, well, I just observed you are using a Samsung 840 EVO 😀.Test it, see if your SSD is still as fast as advertised (use ATTO or its own Samsung Magician). It is unfortunate that none of us asked you before to post your complete system' specifications, it could be easier to find the problem.

Having been playing csgo for a little while, here's more screenies:

 

[Cristi72]

Having been playing csgo for a little while, here's more screenies

Yeah, CPU / GPU are rock solid, GPU is not even sweating... The PSU seems to run at idle, hence the higher voltages.

You have a top PSU, but your usage is way lower for such power, under 10% at idle. To rule out the PSU: install 3D Mark and give it a run on the first display, then open an Youtube video on the second one, see if the stutter continues. Keep Task Manager open on the second display, to track any CPU / memory spike usage.

By the way, you have a pair of 8GB DIMMs or a single 16GB one? because your motherboard officially supports max. 32GB, so 4 x 8 GB DIMMs.

In Samsung Magician, do a Performance Test.

Install HDTune and test both HDDs.

 

[Bradleyvarol]

Having been playing csgo for a little while, here's more screenies

Yeah, CPU / GPU are rock solid, GPU is not even sweating... The PSU seems to run at idle, hence the higher voltages.

You have a top PSU, but your usage is way lower for such power, under 10% at idle. To rule out the PSU: install 3D Mark and give it a run on the first display, then open an Youtube video on the second one, see if the stutter continues. Keep Task Manager open on the second display, to track any CPU / memory spike usage.

By the way, you have a pair of 8GB DIMMs or a single 16GB one? because your motherboard officially supports max. 32GB, so 4 x 8 GB DIMMs.

In Samsung Magician, do a Performance Test.

Install HDTune and test both HDDs.

I ran 3D Mark and watched this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jTGb3ubedgU
There was stuttering in the video, (i will check for 3D Mark stuttering in a moment). But there were no memory or CPU spikes.
The stuttering is only noticeable when the "screen" or camera is moving. For example in the Metro 2033 intro, and in the youtube video above. Lots of panning.

Here's the Magician Performance Bench:

Should I run it for my HDDs too?
Note: I enabled the RAPID (enhances the overall system performance) setting enabled.

Also, I have 2x8GB sticks.

EDIT: Even this video is stuttering with the panning. Driving me crazy!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jUKWYtUc9Tg

Thinking of formatting my SSD, removing the HDDs, installing Windows 8.1 and installing games to the SSD. If it still stutters then, then it must be a hardware problem. At that point I suppose that i must begin the process of elimination. Start returning products...?
I will run that memtest on my second ram stick tonight!

 

[Cristi72]

I enabled the RAPID (enhances the overall system performance) setting enabled.

Try to disable RAPID and do another thest with the feature deactivated; RAPID uses RAM caching to improve the SSD performance, but the gains can be observed mainly in benchmarks.

Have you done all SSD-related tweaks? Disabling Pagefile and Hibernation, deactivating Prefetch, etc?

I don't know how reliable is the Samsung test by using HDDs; I use HDTune because it is easier to interpret the data (the graph immediately shows the speed dips or the areas with unusual high access time).

Try to install Windows by using one of the HDDs instead of the SSD (leave only one HDD connected). Use only the latest drivers from manufacturers (ASRock, EVGA). Also, use the CPU/GPU default speeds. If the stuttering continues even after a fresh install, then there is some faulty hardware (RAM, motherboard). Try to use a Linux boot CD for testing the RAM.

 

[Bradleyvarol]

I enabled the RAPID (enhances the overall system performance) setting enabled.

Try to disable RAPID and do another thest with the feature deactivated; RAPID uses RAM caching to improve the SSD performance, but the gains can be observed mainly in benchmarks.

Have you done all SSD-related tweaks? Disabling Pagefile and Hibernation, deactivating Prefetch, etc?

I don't know how reliable is the Samsung test by using HDDs; I use HDTune because it is easier to interpret the data (the graph immediately shows the speed dips or the areas with unusual high access time).

Try to install Windows by using one of the HDDs instead of the SSD (leave only one HDD connected). Use only the latest drivers from manufacturers (ASRock, EVGA). Also, use the CPU/GPU default speeds. If the stuttering continues even after a fresh install, then there is some faulty hardware (RAM, motherboard). Try to use a Linux boot CD for testing the RAM.

I installed HDTune and am not too sure what test to run. I ran the benchmark, and both HDDs start around 165Mb/s and get progressively slower.

I have the SSD configured for "performance", which applied those tweaks.

I have ran memtest on both RAM sticks for 9 hours and they are both fine, so i think my next step is to disconnect the SSD and one HDD, install Linux, try to watch a Youtube video. If it stutters, then it MUST be a Hardware problem. I am not looking forward to working out which piece of hardware is failing, though.

 

[Bradleyvarol]

I enabled the RAPID (enhances the overall system performance) setting enabled.

Try to disable RAPID and do another thest with the feature deactivated; RAPID uses RAM caching to improve the SSD performance, but the gains can be observed mainly in benchmarks.

Have you done all SSD-related tweaks? Disabling Pagefile and Hibernation, deactivating Prefetch, etc?

I don't know how reliable is the Samsung test by using HDDs; I use HDTune because it is easier to interpret the data (the graph immediately shows the speed dips or the areas with unusual high access time).

Try to install Windows by using one of the HDDs instead of the SSD (leave only one HDD connected). Use only the latest drivers from manufacturers (ASRock, EVGA). Also, use the CPU/GPU default speeds. If the stuttering continues even after a fresh install, then there is some faulty hardware (RAM, motherboard). Try to use a Linux boot CD for testing the RAM.

UPDATE!
I have just finished testing with Linux. The results are not hopeful.
Here's what I did:
Detached SSD, 1 HDD, Optical Drive and GPU (- to minimize peripherals).
Formatted remaining HDD and installed Linux on it via bootable USB installer.

The stuttering was present on Linux Mint, which suggests that this is a hardware problem.
I have absolutely no idea where to start, and although probably unavoidable, i don't want to be RMAing component after component...
Although not easy, I could take the CPU from my Mum's PC and insert it into mine. It would be a huge GPU bottleneck, but i'm sure it would do for testing youtube.

I hope to have this sorted very soon. Many games are being released (including GTA V!!) which I really want to play.
Thank you for your time Cristi72

 

[Cristi72]

UPDATE!
I have just finished testing with Linux. The results are not hopeful.
Here's what I did:
Detached SSD, 1 HDD, Optical Drive and GPU (- to minimize peripherals).
Formatted remaining HDD and installed Linux on it via bootable USB installer.

The stuttering was present on Linux Mint, which suggests that this is a hardware problem.
I have absolutely no idea where to start, and although probably unavoidable, i don't want to be RMAing component after component...
Although not easy, I could take the CPU from my Mum's PC and insert it into mine. It would be a huge GPU bottleneck, but i'm sure it would do for testing youtube.

I hope to have this sorted very soon. Many games are being released (including GTA V!!) which I really want to play.

Sorry to hear that, after all the troubles, no positive result occurs...

Firstly, try to use the RAM from the other computer, it's much easier than changing the CPU.

Use the other PC's PSU (without the GPU, even a 250W PSU will suffice).

If the stuttering is still present, change the CPU (it will be necessary to also dismantle the motherboard from the case, for having acces to the backplate). If already in this point, try first to use the default Intel cooler, maybe the Scythe cooler was overtightened and the motherboard is excessively bent. Check all the standoffs under the motherboard; it is possible that all standoffs were mounted, but your motherboard don't use all of them. It shouldn't be any standoffs under the Southbridge:
http://imgur.com/6olkwnr

Test the motherboard outside the case (lay the motherboard upon its original cardboard package).

If all above actions have no positive results, RMA the motherboard.

 

[Bradleyvarol]

UPDATE!
I have just finished testing with Linux. The results are not hopeful.
Here's what I did:
Detached SSD, 1 HDD, Optical Drive and GPU (- to minimize peripherals).
Formatted remaining HDD and installed Linux on it via bootable USB installer.

The stuttering was present on Linux Mint, which suggests that this is a hardware problem.
I have absolutely no idea where to start, and although probably unavoidable, i don't want to be RMAing component after component...
Although not easy, I could take the CPU from my Mum's PC and insert it into mine. It would be a huge GPU bottleneck, but i'm sure it would do for testing youtube.

I hope to have this sorted very soon. Many games are being released (including GTA V!!) which I really want to play.

Sorry to hear that, after all the troubles, no positive result occurs...

Firstly, try to use the RAM from the other computer, it's much easier than changing the CPU.

Use the other PC's PSU (without the GPU, even a 250W PSU will suffice).

If the stuttering is still present, change the CPU (it will be necessary to also dismantle the motherboard from the case, for having acces to the backplate). If already in this point, try first to use the default Intel cooler, maybe the Scythe cooler was overtightened and the motherboard is excessively bent. Check all the standoffs under the motherboard; it is possible that all standoffs were mounted, but your motherboard don't use all of them. It shouldn't be any standoffs under the Southbridge:
http://imgur.com/6olkwnr

Test the motherboard outside the case (lay the motherboard upon its original cardboard package).

If all above actions have no positive results, RMA the motherboard.

I have not used standoffs under the Southbridge and i am confident that the CPU cooler is not overtightened since I can actually rotate the cooler a little bit (as if it were not tight enough).

I will try using the RAM and PSU from the other PC if that is possible (it was a pre-built DELL with a custom case so not sure about PSU). It's also about 10 years old, but i have cleaned it so hopefully it is reliable enough to use parts from to test.

As for RMAing, what do you think the outcome will be? Surely they will plug the mobo in, see that it boots and send it back as "undamaged"? I will explain everything to them, only to have them ask me if i've "updated the drivers?"! I just hope that they send a replacement or something.

Anyways,

I thank you so much for taking the time to help a stranger many miles from you.
I wish you and well.

Thank-you.

 

[Cristi72]

I will try using the RAM and PSU from the other PC if that is possible (it was a pre-built DELL with a custom case so not sure about PSU). It's also about 10 years old, but i have cleaned it so hopefully it is reliable enough to use parts from to test.

As for RMAing, what do you think the outcome will be? Surely they will plug the mobo in, see that it boots and send it back as "undamaged"? I will explain everything to them, only to have them ask me if i've "updated the drivers?"! I just hope that they send a replacement or something.

Your DELL is quite old, I guess you will not be able to use the CPU or the RAM (DDR3 was released in late 2007). I guess you could use the PSU though (without the GTX of course).

If you have purchased the motherboard from a reputable shop, there is no reason they wouldn't change it, especially if you'll explain thoroughly the issues and what you have done to solve them. Of course, if they are showing no will to RMA the motherboard, you can contact ASRock support.

Doing a search for this specific motherboard, I found out that Z97-E4 has some widespread issues, although none are similar with your problems you experienced (no POST when the system is unplugged from mains, components from the mobo getting very hot, freezings on boot/shutdown, etc). Some find out that, in some cases, replacing the BIOS battery with a new one solves the problem.

 

[Bradleyvarol]

I will try using the RAM and PSU from the other PC if that is possible (it was a pre-built DELL with a custom case so not sure about PSU). It's also about 10 years old, but i have cleaned it so hopefully it is reliable enough to use parts from to test.

As for RMAing, what do you think the outcome will be? Surely they will plug the mobo in, see that it boots and send it back as "undamaged"? I will explain everything to them, only to have them ask me if i've "updated the drivers?"! I just hope that they send a replacement or something.

Your DELL is quite old, I guess you will not be able to use the CPU or the RAM (DDR3 was released in late 2007). I guess you could use the PSU though (without the GTX of course).

If you have purchased the motherboard from a reputable shop, there is no reason they wouldn't change it, especially if you'll explain thoroughly the issues and what you have done to solve them. Of course, if they are showing no will to RMA the motherboard, you can contact ASRock support.

Doing a search for this specific motherboard, I found out that Z97-E4 has some widespread issues, although none are similar with your problems you experienced (no POST when the system is unplugged from mains, components from the mobo getting very hot, freezings on boot/shutdown, etc). Some find out that, in some cases, replacing the BIOS battery with a new one solves the problem.

I purchased everything from Amazon, so i should be okay with RMA.
Gonna try using the DELL PC as soon as possible, but regardless of the outcome, there is no need for me to post here again, unless you want to know the outcome and solution... So thank you, and i will select you as the solution of course.
Hopefully I will get it fixed soon.

 

[Bradleyvarol]

I will try using the RAM and PSU from the other PC if that is possible (it was a pre-built DELL with a custom case so not sure about PSU). It's also about 10 years old, but i have cleaned it so hopefully it is reliable enough to use parts from to test.

As for RMAing, what do you think the outcome will be? Surely they will plug the mobo in, see that it boots and send it back as "undamaged"? I will explain everything to them, only to have them ask me if i've "updated the drivers?"! I just hope that they send a replacement or something.

Your DELL is quite old, I guess you will not be able to use the CPU or the RAM (DDR3 was released in late 2007). I guess you could use the PSU though (without the GTX of course).

If you have purchased the motherboard from a reputable shop, there is no reason they wouldn't change it, especially if you'll explain thoroughly the issues and what you have done to solve them. Of course, if they are showing no will to RMA the motherboard, you can contact ASRock support.

Doing a search for this specific motherboard, I found out that Z97-E4 has some widespread issues, although none are similar with your problems you experienced (no POST when the system is unplugged from mains, components from the mobo getting very hot, freezings on boot/shutdown, etc). Some find out that, in some cases, replacing the BIOS battery with a new one solves the problem.

Just a quick update:

Running my computer with my other PSU. 305W shitty thing, and only has 4 pins for the cpu instead of 8 but it's working fine.
The stutter is still there on youtube and when scrolling. So i think this must be a MoBO problem. Interesting is that the 12v is still quite high, as it was with my psu. This may suggest that it is infact the MOBO that is the problem, right? or just a coincidence....
http://prntscr.com/62juvj
Thanks.

 

[Cristi72]

Just a quick update:

Running my computer with my other PSU. 305W shitty thing, and only has 4 pins for the cpu instead of 8 but it's working fine.
The stutter is still there on youtube and when scrolling. So i think this must be a MoBO problem. Interesting is that the 12v is still quite high, as it was with my psu. This may suggest that it is infact the MOBO that is the problem, right? or just a coincidence....
http://prntscr.com/62juvj
Thanks.

A higher +12V value from an old PSU is unexpected (especially for an OEM PSU), but the value is still within limits (+/- 5%).

The system' behaviour is the same even with that old PSU, so at least you can rule out the PSU. It remains the motherboard (most likely), the RAM or even the CPU, but without testing each component you cannot say for sure which one bears the blame.

If you tested both DIMMs, one DIMM at the time in Slot 1 (DDR3_A1, the blue memory slot next to the CPU socket) and both has the same behaviour, I guess the RAM is OK. Try to put the DIMMs (one at the time) in DDR3_A2 (first black slot), see if it changes anything.

As for the CPU: if you have time, try to re-seat the CPU in its socket and use only the stock cooler (so no need for the CPU backplate).

The best is to test the motherboard outside the case and use only mandatory connections (PSU, keyboard, mouse, HDD), so no front USB or audio cables connected, and also no peripherals such USB speakers, printers, etc. I highly doubt any dealer will take the trouble to mount the motherboard in a case, so this is the way they will test the motherboard too.

 

[Bradleyvarol]

Just a quick update:

Running my computer with my other PSU. 305W shitty thing, and only has 4 pins for the cpu instead of 8 but it's working fine.
The stutter is still there on youtube and when scrolling. So i think this must be a MoBO problem. Interesting is that the 12v is still quite high, as it was with my psu. This may suggest that it is infact the MOBO that is the problem, right? or just a coincidence....
http://prntscr.com/62juvj
Thanks.

A higher +12V value from an old PSU is unexpected (especially for an OEM PSU), but the value is still within limits (+/- 5%).

The system' behaviour is the same even with that old PSU, so at least you can rule out the PSU. It remains the motherboard (most likely), the RAM or even the CPU, but without testing each component you cannot say for sure which one bears the blame.

If you tested both DIMMs, one DIMM at the time in Slot 1 (DDR3_A1, the blue memory slot next to the CPU socket) and both has the same behaviour, I guess the RAM is OK. Try to put the DIMMs (one at the time) in DDR3_A2 (first black slot), see if it changes anything.

As for the CPU: if you have time, try to re-seat the CPU in its socket and use only the stock cooler (so no need for the CPU backplate).

The best is to test the motherboard outside the case and use only mandatory connections (PSU, keyboard, mouse, HDD), so no front USB or audio cables connected, and also no peripherals such USB speakers, printers, etc. I highly doubt any dealer will take the trouble to mount the motherboard in a case, so this is the way they will test the motherboard too.

It seems my reply did not post.
I will be RMAing the mobo, and possibly the CPU at the same time. I have tried different DIMM slots.
I will test the mobo outside of the case when i am taking it apart to RMA.

Thanks.

 

[Bradleyvarol]

I replaced my motherboard with a new ASUS Z97-A and the problem is finally fixed for good.