Question cpu being underclocked

[noname223]

I recently changed my Gpu,Motherboard and psu from (GA-F2A88XN-WIFI-rev-3.0) itx to (ecs elitegroup a68f2p m4 v1) micro atx, (rx550 2gb) to (rx580 8gb) and 450 watts to 750 watts, there were no problems at first till i noticed my fps was so low even when i upgraded to a new gpu... So i checked (Task Manager) and there i saw my cpu (AMD A10-7860K) only running at (1.37-1.45ghz) where it should be at atleast 3.65, but when i close the game/program it spikes back to its original speed 3.60

is this a motherboard, overheating or psu issue? ( I havent encountered this problem on my old mobo and gpu)

Also i cant edit my cpu speed on ecs bio i can only change the ram mhz (it sucks...) And everytime i open pc it always boot me on bios

Should i just place it all back on my gigabyte motherboard? (Did i downgrade on buying that ecs mobo?)

(I also experienced problems on my rx580 but fixed it by DDU all the graphic drivers and i think it deleted my drivers for the cpu as well since on device manager my cpu's current version is 2009... Could that be the problem? I tried updating it but adrenaline software wont let me.)

Note: i am a noob on tech stuffs

PC SPECS:
Processor: AMD A-10 7860K
Motherboard: ecs elitegroup a68f2p m4 v1
Ram: 16gb DDR3 HyperX 1600mhz
SSD: 128gb kingston
Psu: Generic 750watts
Cooler: Pc cooler (brand name)
Gpu: Rx580 2048sp

 

[thestryker]

I'd suggest starting with something like CPUID HWMonitor and see what happens when you start up something that puts a load on the CPU. It has quite a bit of information, but what you should be looking at primarily would be clockspeeds and temperatures.

 

[drea.drechsler]

I recently changed my Gpu,Motherboard and psu from (GA-F2A88XN-WIFI-rev-3.0) itx to (ecs elitegroup a68f2p m4 v1) micro atx, (rx550 2gb) to (rx580 8gb) and 450 watts to 750 watts, there were no problems at first till i noticed my fps was so low even when i upgraded to a new gpu... So i checked (Task Manager) and there i saw my cpu (AMD A10-7860K) only running at (1.37-1.45ghz) where it should be at atleast 3.65, but when i close the game/program it spikes back to its original speed 3.60

is this a motherboard, overheating or psu issue? ( I havent encountered this problem on my old mobo and gpu)

Also i cant edit my cpu speed on ecs bio i can only change the ram mhz (it sucks...) And everytime i open pc it always boot me on bios

Should i just place it all back on my gigabyte motherboard? (Did i downgrade on buying that ecs mobo?)

(I also experienced problems on my rx580 but fixed it by DDU all the graphic drivers and i think it deleted my drivers for the cpu as well since on device manager my cpu's current version is 2009... Could that be the problem? I tried updating it but adrenaline software wont let me.)

Note: i am a noob on tech stuffs

PC SPECS:
Processor: AMD A-10 7860K
Motherboard: ecs elitegroup a68f2p m4 v1
Ram: 16gb DDR3 HyperX 1600mhz
SSD: 128gb kingston
Psu: Generic 750watts
Cooler: Pc cooler (brand name)
Gpu: Rx580 2048sp

Did you reset CMOS on the new motherboard?

Did you clean re-install your OS after the motherboard upgrade? It's highly recommended to clean out any old drivers and settings that can interfere with operation. If you're on Windows 10 you can download an install media creation tool to create a fresh installation USB stick. If you're on most any other pre-Win10 OS it's advisable to update to Win10 anyway for it's much better security. Win11 probably isn't an option for you.

Without delving too much into specs of each board it appears to me the Gigabyte board is the better of the two, form factors aside. That's because it has heatsinking on the VRM FETS's while the ECS board has none. It also has a better audio subsystem with a TOS-Link digital output and jacks for 5.1 or 7.1 speaker configuration. It also has WiFi which I'd consider pretty important for an m-ITX board as they're typically used in a highly compact and portable system build. And lastly, AMD considers the A68 chipset on the ECS board "entry level" while the A88 chipset is "performance level". You may not need that all those things, but they certainly do suggest the Gigabyte is more than a few steps above the ECS feature-wise.

But what was your reasoning for swapping motherboards in the first place? Do you have need of the extra PCIe socket an mATX board provides? I suspect your RX580 GPU makes that slot unuseable anyway as it covers it up...or if not an add-in card will likely block cooling airflow to the GPU making it overheat and run poorly. So there is that to consider.

Renewing your PSU is probably a good idea, but normally a 750W PSU would be overkill for a rig like yours and being "generic" suggests it's could be a problem at any power draw. You don't likely need more than 450W, 550W tops, so if you can return what you have for a brand name, quality, 450W even if just for peace of mind.

 

[noname223]

I'd suggest starting with something like CPUID HWMonitor and see what happens when you start up something that puts a load on the CPU. It has quite a bit of information, but what you should be looking at primarily would be clockspeeds and temperatures.

Hello sorry for the late reply, so i launched chrome with 40 tabs open and yea it just stays on 1.37Ghz, as for the temps i dont know which one is important but here:

Temperatures
Value. Min. Max
Package 13.0°. 12.1°. 15.4°
Cores. 62.4°. 61.1°. 64.4°

 

[thestryker]

Hello sorry for the late reply, so i launched chrome with 40 tabs open and yea it just stays on 1.37Ghz, as for the temps i dont know which one is important but here:

Temperatures
Value. Min. Max
Package 13.0°. 12.1°. 15.4°
Cores. 62.4°. 61.1°. 64.4°

While those temperatures aren't too bad (assuming celsius not fahrenheit) they would be high for idle. If those are the lowest it gets definitely check the CPU cooler mounting to make sure there's good contact, thermal paste spread and enough mounting pressure.

The clockspeed should be listed in there as well with the current/min/max which might be helpful to see if it is going above the 1.xx ghz range. The amount of power being pulled could also give a clue (have you checked to make sure all of the power connectors for the motherboard are hooked up?).

 

[noname223]

Did you reset CMOS on the new motherboard?

Did you clean re-install your OS after the motherboard upgrade? It's highly recommended to clean out any old drivers and settings that can interfere with operation. If you're on Windows 10 you can download an install media creation tool to create a fresh installation USB stick. If you're on most any other pre-Win10 OS it's advisable to update to Win10 anyway for it's much better security. Win11 probably isn't an option for you.

Without delving too much into specs of each board it appears to me the Gigabyte board is the better of the two, form factors aside. That's because it has heatsinking on the VRM FETS's while the ECS board has none. It also has a better audio subsystem with a TOS-Link digital output and jacks for 5.1 or 7.1 speaker configuration. It also has WiFi which I'd consider pretty important for an m-ITX board as they're typically used in a highly compact and portable system build. And lastly, AMD considers the A68 chipset on the ECS board "entry level" while the A88 chipset is "performance level". You may not need that all those things, but they certainly do suggest the Gigabyte is more than a few steps above the ECS feature-wise.

But what was your reasoning for swapping motherboards in the first place? Do you have need of the extra PCIe socket an mATX board provides? I suspect your RX580 GPU makes that slot unuseable anyway as it covers it up...or if not an add-in card will likely block cooling airflow to the GPU making it overheat and run poorly. So there is that to consider.

Renewing your PSU is probably a good idea, but normally a 750W PSU would be overkill for a rig like yours and being "generic" suggests it's could be a problem at any power draw. You don't likely need more than 450W, 550W tops, so if you can return what you have for a brand name, quality, 450W even if just for peace of mind.

Yeps i already did reset the cmos as for the clean reinstall for the windows 10 i'll try that right now because just last night i've had 5 blue screen in a row... ( I dont know if they are related) looked on the event viewer and this is what it saids
1.) WLAN Extensibility Module has Failed to start. (Theres like 20+ on the manager)

2.)The application specific permission settings do not grant local launch permission for the COM Server application with CLSID and APPID

3.)The computer has rebooted from a bugcheck. The bugcheck was 0x00000139


I swapped both motherboards because on the gigabyte my ram mhz is just stuck on 1333mhz even when i force change it on bios (i can manually input 1600 but after boot it would just either blackscreen/crash)
and my cooler blocks the gpu ( i ordered a Tower cooler now so if reinstalling windows doesnt work im just gonna put it all back) i will also try my old 450 psu which is rated 80+

I'll keep u guys updated if it worked tsym!!

 

[USAFRet]

as for the clean reinstall for the windows 10 i'll try that right now because just last night i've had 5 blue screen in a row

In the context of a new motherboard/CPU, and you have issues....that is most likely the issue.

Full wipe and reinstall of the OS.

Assuming Win 10...

How To - Windows 10 clean install tutorial

If you are looking for the Windows 11 Clean install tutorial, you can find that here: Windows 11 Clean install tutorial (Click here) Otherwise, welcome to the Windows 10 Clean install tutorial This tutorial is intended to help you, step by step, to perform a clean install of Windows...

forums.tomshardware.com

 

[noname223]

While those temperatures aren't too bad (assuming celsius not fahrenheit) they would be high for idle. If those are the lowest it gets definitely check the CPU cooler mounting to make sure there's good contact, thermal paste spread and enough mounting pressure.

The clockspeed should be listed in there as well with the current/min/max which might be helpful to see if it is going above the 1.xx ghz range. The amount of power being pulled could also give a clue (have you checked to make sure all of the power connectors for the motherboard are hooked up?).

I'll reapply a new thermal paste again once the tower cooler i ordered arrived today

Ecs A68F2P-M4
Value/Min/Max
-Voltages
CPU VCORE - 0.920V/0.912 V/1.008V
Temperatures
TMPIN1 -24.0°C/-24.0c/-24.0c
(Uhh is this Normal???? Why is it on negative)

AMD A10-7860K
Value/Min/Max
-Clocks
Core#0 1397 Mhz/1370Mhz/1896Mhz
Core#1 1397Mhz/1370Mhz/2994Mhz
Core#2 1397Mhz/1370Mhz/1896Mhz
Core#3 1397Mhz/1370Mhz/2495Mhz

My base speed is supposed to be on 3.60

 

[thestryker]

Temperatures
TMPIN1 -24.0°C/-24.0c/-24.0c
(Uhh is this Normal???? Why is it on negative)

Likely just a temperature sensor being polled that doesn't exist or just isn't working right I wouldn't worry about that.

AMD A10-7860K
Value/Min/Max
-Clocks
Core#0 1397 Mhz/1370Mhz/1896Mhz
Core#1 1397Mhz/1370Mhz/2994Mhz
Core#2 1397Mhz/1370Mhz/1896Mhz
Core#3 1397Mhz/1370Mhz/2495Mhz

My base speed is supposed to be on 3.60

There's definitely something very wrong there as it sounds like a power limited state that the CPU is running in (1.4ghz is the power limited base clock). Perhaps look through the BIOS and see if there are any power or clockspeed settings that can be changed/defaulted.

It probably is, but make sure the 4 pin 12v CPU power connector on the motherboard is plugged in.

 

[noname223]

In the context of a new motherboard/CPU, and you have issues....that is most likely the issue.

Full wipe and reinstall of the OS.

Assuming Win 10...

How To - Windows 10 clean install tutorial

If you are looking for the Windows 11 Clean install tutorial, you can find that here: Windows 11 Clean install tutorial (Click here) Otherwise, welcome to the Windows 10 Clean install tutorial This tutorial is intended to help you, step by step, to perform a clean install of Windows...

forums.tomshardware.com

Oh boy.. guys i fully reinstalled windows all fresh and i set it all up all updated graphic drivers and stil getting blue screens (literally after just 10mins setting up chrome)... Im certain its either the motherboard or psu right? (Also its still being underclocked)

(Im gonna put it back on my gigabyte hope it works again)

 

[noname223]

Likely just a temperature sensor being polled that doesn't exist or just isn't working right I wouldn't worry about that.

There's definitely something very wrong there as it sounds like a power limited state that the CPU is running in (1.4ghz is the power limited base clock). Perhaps look through the BIOS and see if there are any power or clockspeed settings that can be changed/defaulted.

It probably is, but make sure the 4 pin 12v CPU power connector on the motherboard is plugged in.

Yep my pins are all connected, i searched everywhere on the bios and theres no options about changing/oc my cpu speed... Theres really nothing 😭, the only thing i can change is the ram mhz, literally thats the only thing no voltages/inputs (this board sucks...)

I looked on the manual/website for compatible fm2+ cpu's
And it said only A10-7850K and below are compatible, (could also that be the reason??)

Im using (A10-7860K)

 

[thestryker]

I looked on the manual/website for compatible fm2+ cpu's
And it said only A10-7850K and below are compatible, (could also that be the reason??)

Im using (A10-7860K)

You know what I was looking at the 1.1 revision of the motherboard, not the 1.0 and I'll bet that's exactly it. If the motherboard itself doesn't have proper compatiblity that could definitely cause what you're seeing.

 

[noname223]

You know what I was looking at the 1.1 revision of the motherboard, not the 1.0 and I'll bet that's exactly it. If the motherboard itself doesn't have proper compatiblity that could definitely cause what you're seeing.

Havent switch the parts yet (not yet home)

+ Just want to add about my Blue screen problem (made me think its a ram issues)

The weird thing is i only get (bsod/blue screen) when pc is on idle or when im editing videos on (premiere pro)

But when i play any games
(Currently testing the rx580 so i can get warranty if it fails on load) so i put all graphics settings on max (still with the 1.37 underclocked cpu btw)

I don't get any bluescreen/crashes....
Like wth 😂

 

[sitehostplus]

Oh boy.. guys i fully reinstalled windows all fresh and i set it all up all updated graphic drivers and stil getting blue screens (literally after just 10mins setting up chrome)... Im certain its either the motherboard or psu right? (Also its still being underclocked)

(Im gonna put it back on my gigabyte hope it works again)

Lots of thing can cause a blue screen. Just like lots of things can cause a cpu to suddenly go into overdrive and push temps up to almost 90 degrees Celsius on a temporary basis.

How about before wasting any more money on new parts, get a copy of 'Who Crashed' and run that. It scans the crash logs in Windows and translates them into plain English with search hyperlinks so you can do further research on the internet.

Let me know what that tells you.

 

[drea.drechsler]

Havent switch the parts yet (not yet home)

+ Just want to add about my Blue screen problem (made me think its a ram issues)

The weird thing is i only get (bsod/blue screen) when pc is on idle or when im editing videos on (premiere pro)

But when i play any games
(Currently testing the rx580 so i can get warranty if it fails on load) so i put all graphics settings on max (still with the 1.37 underclocked cpu btw)

I don't get any bluescreen/crashes....
Like wth 😂

I don't know if you mentioned it before but try to make sure the motherboard BIOS is fully up-to-date to ensure you have the best CPU/memory compatibility.

BSOD's could be memory related (even though not in games) especially since you did mention there was a problem with your memory on the old board. Just because the new board starts at higher than 1333 speeds doesn't mean it's fully compatible and stable. Test your memory in the new board: in Win10, type "memory diagnostic" in the Cortana search box. Click on the diagnostic app icon and let it reboot windows into a diagnostic test screen. It will run a while.

And just how are you setting any memory speed higher than default? by just setting the memory clock speed, or ar you enabling XMP? Just setting the clock speed isn't enough: memory timings and voltage have to be adjusted to stabilize it. Setting XMP does that but only to a degree.

Be sure to install all of AMD's drivers on the new Win10 installation.

Your A10 is an APU...so you can completely remove the RX580 and run win10 and even play a game to see if it behaves any better. That's one way to see if the RX580 is causing the problems.

 

[noname223]

Thank you so much guys! I swapped it back on my old motherboard (gigabyte) and works perfectly fine now no Bsod and its not underclocked anymore!

Can you guys suggest me any budget friendly am4 build? Like entry level for mid gaming im eyeing on a ryzen 5 chipsets.

 

[drea.drechsler]

Thank you so much guys! I swapped it back on my old motherboard (gigabyte) and works perfectly fine now no Bsod and its not underclocked anymore!

Can you guys suggest me any budget friendly am4 build? Like entry level for mid gaming im eyeing on a ryzen 5 chipsets.

The most "budget" AM4 CPU you should seriously consider is a Ryzen 5 5600 or 5600X. You can go even cheaper but you're can end up giving up a lot more for not that much cheaper.

Memory depends on price for where you get it. You'll need at least 16 GB, get it as two sticks of 8GB. Strongly suggest getting a 3600 kit because it helps Ryzen CPU's a lot

Motherboard depends on availability and shipping to you. The motherboard I suggest would be good for a 5800X3d, the best gaming CPU on AM4, so you have upgradeability there.

You can of course use the SATA drives you currently have perfectly well in this new build. Upgrading to an NVME is possible although you may not notice that significant of an difference if already using a decent SATA SSD for your system drive so it's something best left for an upgrade later on to keep the initial budget in line.

Here's a possible build. This system will give you low-mid level gaming at 1080P with your RX580 GPU but that's the limiter. It has a lot of upgradeability: put in an RX 6700 XT and you'll be solidly into high end 1080p gaming, low-mid level 1440P. Upgrade to a Ryzen 7 5800X3d CPU and RX 6950 XT and you'll be solidly into high-end 1440P, low-mid 4K gaming.

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/Y8kmY9