cpu custom loop parts help

[LiamTheTurtle]

going to build my first water cooling loop, gonna start with just a cpu custom loop witha 240mm rad but i have no idea what parts to buy, so could someone tell me all the parts i will need, i'd prefer a cylinder res thats atleast 200mm, the cpu block must fit intel and finally must include a 240mm rad
please use .co.uk websites
£150 budget

 

[Mikel_4]

With 150 maybe not enough for future expansion CPU + GPU or (two or three GPU water cooling)
My suggestion is CPU water cooling 1st then you can allocate future budget for GPU water cooling, so you'll have dual loop inside.
We need to know your full spec 1st
1. Motherboard+CPU, will determine CPU waterblock, pump+rad fans wattage and power connection options
2. Case+PSU, will determine mounting options for rad, pump+top+res

or you can just go for

• 
  ■ Thermaltake Pacific kit
  Possible upgrade base on pump's flow rate (D5 max setting) with additional tube and fittings:
  - one medium restriction full cover GPU water block + one low restriction 420 mm radiator + two RAM water block + one VRM water block.
  - two low restriction full cover GPU water block + one low restriction 420 mm radiator .
  ■ XSPC raystorm AX240
  Possible upgrade base on pump's flow rate (D5 max setting) with additional tube and fittings:
  - one medium restriction full cover GPU water block + one low restriction 420 mm radiator + two RAM water block + one VRM water block.
  - two low restriction full cover GPU water block + one low restriction 420 mm radiator .
  ■ EKWB EK Kit S240
  This is what I've been using, upgrade the pump to EK XTOP Dual D5 currently water cooling i7 6900K and four GTX 780Ti with additional two 360 mm rad.
  

 

[n0ns3ns3]

150 pounds budget is hard to meet with quality components
here is what you can do:
1. D5 - best pump ever 45 pounds: https://mayhems.co.uk/pumps/laing-d5-vario-8-24v-pump-w-tach-cable-option-mcp655-and-etc./
2. Radiator : 240mm XFlow rad 45 pounds: http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/water-cooling/radiators/radiators-active/20473/alphacool-nexxxos-st30-full-copper-x-flow-240mm-radiator
3. CPU block: here is the new and shiny 65 euro :https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3498&XTCsid=jeo2tjm0jba5fve9ukjk2per0bnlfmvj
here is the regular EK Supremacy Evo starting at 55 pounds: http://www.kustompcs.co.uk/acatalog/CPU_Waterblocks.html
4. you are also going to need 4 fitting:
cheapest 4x1.63pounds http://www.kustompcs.co.uk/acatalog/info_8856.html
better compression fittings: 4x4.50 pounds http://www.kustompcs.co.uk/acatalog/info_9370.html
5. some tubing: 1-2 meters 6.50 pounds a meter http://www.kustompcs.co.uk/acatalog/info_7934.html
and gallon of distilled water - supposed to be very cheap.

total 150-160 pounds + shipping.

initially you can get without reservoir as the radiator has ports on both sides. so if you mount the radiator on top of the case horizontally, and connect it directly to pump's intake, you can use it as res and fill port.

later you can upgrade the loop with reservoir/ pump tops / additional components like rads and GPU blocks/ change to hard tubing/ add colored coolant etc.

the above list is no compromises on quality or performance.

If you have more questions, PM me.

 

[Mikel_4]

you'll still need a T-splitter + valve + plug or QDC especially for two port rad, how are you suppose to bleed the loop with your picks?

 

[n0ns3ns3]

easily
the radiator can serve as reservoir as it has ports on both sides (4 in total).
so you just unscrew one of the top ports, feel the liquid.
actually, additional (5th) barb will ease the process to connect piece of tube to that port so you will not need to close it when turning on the pump. that's not must but makes life easier. and actually answers the fill/bleed question.
there is no need for T due to above.
valve/qdc is luxury. with flex tubing you can take pump out of the case and disconnect the tube to drain the loop.
the rad comes with 2 stop plugs.
BTW, the above setup will perform better than EK Predator 240, and much cheaper than other kits you've listed.

 

[Mikel_4]

easily
the radiator can serve as reservoir as it has ports on both sides (4 in total).
so you just unscrew one of the top ports, feel the liquid.
actually, additional (5th) barb will ease the process to connect piece of tube to that port so you will not need to close it when turning on the pump. that's not must but makes life easier. and actually answers the fill/bleed question.
there is no need for T due to above.
valve/qdc is luxury. with flex tubing you can take pump out of the case and disconnect the tube to drain the loop.
the rad comes with 2 stop plugs.
BTW, the above setup will perform better than EK Predator 240, and much cheaper than other kits you've listed.

:lol: just between you and me, you are true n0nse(3)nse(3)

• 
  ■ " ...unscrew one of the top ports, feel the liquid.
  actually, additional (5th) barb will ease the process to connect piece of tube to that port so you will not need to close it when turning on the pump...." looks like you are referring to bleeding and pump priming outside the case prior to radiator mounting, I've tried non reservoir loop just for fun, seems like it decreased cooling performance, after googling at discussing later I found out that non reservoir + top side radiator mounting somehow traps bubbles, so I redo and redo the process in several ways just to make sure zero bubbles on loop, but came out the same. So I change the bleeding method by mounting the radiator first, ...BTW I use HardwareLabs SR2 360 MP, nope, no bubbles.
  ■ " .. take pump out of the case and disconnect the tube to drain the loop..." VS "..makes life easier.." as in turning the valve knob is makes life harder.
  ■ BTW, Liamtheturtle ask for custom loop not expandable AIO
  • 
    

 

[n0ns3ns3]

Just between us, doing liquid for over a decade 😉
reservoirs are not requirement, they (as well as QDC/ball valves) are just convenience accessory.
OP asked for custom loop within specific budget in specific country, and I posted exactly that.
regarding the process, no - filling the loop is done after HW (including rad) is mounted.
Not long ago, I did the shrink to my ATX mid tower to mini ITX while preserving the performance (OC i7 + GTX 1070).
while a single 240 rad (front mounted intake) is able to keep it cool and quite, I was not completely happy with the thermals and noise level. so 120 rad was added (top exhaust), but it there are couple of issues with this config:
1. it's ugly
2. in order to mount it, i had to remove the single piece top cover. so the other open section is sucking air in.
3. I live in hot climate, so the ambient is well above 25C for ~9 months
so obvious solution is to replace the top 120 rad with 240 rad.
but than, due to space restrictions, i have no way to mount the rad and fans inside, as well I'll have no access to the top port on the res to let the air out (not to mention filling the loop through res).
So the solution was to use 240 XFlow rad that has ports on both sides + replace the pump top+res combo with just pump top and use the top mounted rad as reservoir as well. of course I'll have to make a nice hole in the case to have an access to the port on top mounted radiator.
I'll probably will make a build log post here when the project is completely done (hard tubing ahead, probably glass).
here is the system with single rad:
https://goo.gl/photos/xjYNpaaTHS4QJFzMA
that's how it looks now:
https://goo.gl/photos/iBSNsG6APkGg2Fx18
and with a bit of imagination, you can guess how it will look later