[SOLVED] CPU over temperature. Turn off oc

[kolabbj]

So i just opened the bios and i get a over temperature error. Its at 89degrees. Idk if the oc is on automatically. How do i fix this?

specs:
Corsair HX850i, 850W PSU
Intel Core i9-9900K Prosessor
ASUS GeForce RTX 2080 Ti ROG Strix OC
ASUS ROG Strix Helios Midi Tower
G.Skill Trident Z RGB 3600MHz 16GB 4x
ASUS ROG MAXIMUS XI HERO (WI-FI) S-1151
Samsung 970 EVO Plus 1TB SSD
Samsung 860 EVO 1TB SSD
Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5'' HDD
ASUS ROG RYUJIN 360 CPU Cooler

 

[kolabbj]

How do i turn off overclocking?

 

[MadsModsat]

Since you are in BIOS, you could try to "Load Optimized Defaults", save and reboot. See what temps you get.


-Also-
Did you recently install the ASUS cooler, or have you moved your PC recently by any chance?

With those temps, it is likely not seated properly, or air could be trapped in the pump.

I relocated my AiO raditor at one point recently from the front of the case to the top, but didn't touch the pump assembly - which had been working perfectly for cooling up to that point.

When I fired up my PC, I got the same warning as you are describing, same motherboard, by the way, and CPU - the 9900K temperature (non-OC'ed) shot right up to 90'c

I noticed the reported speed of the AiO pump RPM was way above what it should even be capable of @ 3200-something-RPM (this particular AiO pump is normally maxed out at 2700 RPM).

I figured air was trapped in the pump, so I disconnected my PC, and gently tipped the case in all directions, almost turning it upside down.

I reconnected everything, and my temps were back to normal - so it was indeed air trapped in the pump.

EDIT:
If you still get the overtemperature warning after loading optimized defaults, I would suggest you re-install the ASUS cooler, it may not be installed correctly or have proper contact with the CPU heatspreader. Remove thermal paste and re-apply etc.

 

[kolabbj]

So, i tried tipping it around. Didnt work. Still at 89. The aio pump is at 2700 rpm

Im thinking about taking off the cooler and put sone paste on IT. Because the cooler came with a paste Block. Might have missplaced the cooler aswell. I Will Try more tomorrow. Ive been trying to fix IT for 5hours. Dont want to make and stupid mistakes

 

[MadsModsat]

2700 RPM sounds reasonable, so I doubt it is actually trapped air - but it was worth a try.

I suggest you try to remove the pump assembly, wipe off the thermal paste (both from the CPU and the cooler), clean the both CPU and cooler with isopropylalcohol, then re-apply thermal paste and re-install the cooler.
You will need fresh thermal paste for this, as you shouldn't re-use the pre-applied thermal paste once the cooler has been removed, as cooling performance will be degraded.

Have you changed any settings in the Extreme Tweaker menu in BIOS? That's where the OC settings are located, so unless everyhting is at safe settings or defaults, you should try loading optimized defaults, as that will reset all settings to safe values.

You can always save your current settings under User Profiles before loading defaults, so you can quickly reload all your current settings after you have confirmed you don't have any OC running that you are not aware of (the alert it will remind you to disable OC by the way, even if you are not actuallly overclocking).

 

[kolabbj]

I havent really touched any of the settings. The oc settings Are on auto. Ive tried to reset to default but didnt change a thing. I think i Will wipe off the thermal paste and Apply more as you said. I Will Try this tomorrow and if no luck. I Will tell you here. Btw. You know the paste that came with the cooler? Do i need to Apply more than that? Isnt the paste Block that came with the cooler enough?

 

[MadsModsat]

Oh sorry, I assumed the thermal paste was pre-applied to the pump assembly - but if it was included seperately, there should be sufficient for a new aplication. So If that's the case, you are good to go 😉

Make sure you thighten any screws in a criss cross pattern so you apply even pressure across the cooler and CPU for the best possible thermal transfer.

EDIT:

On a side note, you should change the following setting to prevent your 9900K from power throttling on this board.
Not because the board isn't good enough, but ASUS has chosen to stick very closely to Intel's 95W TDP specification, which means the 9900K CPU will power throttle, no matter how good hardware you have.

The setting is called "CPU Current Capability" and is found under "External Digi+ Power Control" in the "Extreme Tweaker menu".

It should be set to maximum, which is 140% (unless you are on an old BIOS version, in which case it goes all the way to 170% - 140% is sufficient)

This is a safe setting, which is not to be confused with overclocking. It will not negatively impact your CPU or anything else, but it will allow your CPU draw the needed wattage to run at 4700MHz (all core) continously without power throttling to stay at 95W TDP.

If you haven't already, you should also enable XMP for your RAM, and select "Yes" when you are asked if you want to allow ASUS to set some tweaked settings for best overall performance.

 

[kolabbj]

I might have messed up on the Reply. IT did come pre applied. But idk if IT was seated properly. I did buy thermal paste but when i same IT came pre applied, I didnt put any on.

 

[kolabbj]

But i Will Try the settings you wrote. Hopefully IT works 🙏

 

[MadsModsat]

But then you did it correctly.

But it is lucky you bought the extra thermal paste, as you now have the needed items to reinstall the cooler.

Don't adjust the settings I mentioned, until your cooler is porperly installed and is cooling as it should.

EDIT:
Select "XMP II" first - they are G.Skill's factory settings for the RAM. If you have any issues, try "XMP I" which are ASUS' settings.

XMP II offers best performance, XMP I is a little less demanding, and might run better on some systems.

Personally I use XMP II for my RAM.

 

[kolabbj]

But then you did it correctly.

But it is lucky you bought the extra thermal paste, as you now have the needed items to reinstall the cooler.

Don't adjust the settings I mentioned, until your cooler is porperly installed and is cooling as it should.

ok, thanks for the help

 

[throwawayaccnt]

So i just opened the bios and i get a over temperature error. Its at 89degrees. Idk if the oc is on automatically. How do i fix this?

specs:
Corsair HX850i, 850W PSU
Intel Core i9-9900K Prosessor
ASUS GeForce RTX 2080 Ti ROG Strix OC
ASUS ROG Strix Helios Midi Tower
G.Skill Trident Z RGB 3600MHz 16GB 4x
ASUS ROG MAXIMUS XI HERO (WI-FI) S-1151
Samsung 970 EVO Plus 1TB SSD
Samsung 860 EVO 1TB SSD
Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5'' HDD
ASUS ROG RYUJIN 360 CPU Cooler

Fellow ASUS AIO user (Ryuo 240 model)

Did you wire everything correctly? Is the pin-connector from the heatsink head plugged into the AIO connector on your motherboard? Are your radiator fans also plugged in and spinning when you turn on your PC?

Mads also recommended a possible cause/fix in the positioning of your AIO, air can get trapped causing those heating issues

 

[kolabbj]

I have connected the fans to the splitter that came with the cooler. One of the wires is connected to the aio pump. It was connected to the cpu fan before. Now i get Cpu fan error when its in aio pump. Which of the cables are sup to go where. The 3 fans is connectrd. Idk the rest

 

[MadsModsat]

The CPU Fan error is easily fixed, go to your BIOS monitoring section, you should have the option to "Ignore" CPU fan RPM monitoring. This way you should not recieve the "error" again (more like a warning)

Other than that, it sounds like you have connected things the right way, although it is a bit difficult to get the complete picture without seeing it in person, so I might be wrong.

 

[kolabbj]

I turned it on but now it still overheats

 

[MadsModsat]

Are you using the correct stand-offs between the backplate and the cooler retaining clip?

There are some for LGA20XX and some for LGA115X, and they look very similar, but have different length. (There are also some for AMD motherboards, but they are easy to recognize)
You need to use the correct ones for proper mounting pressure.

I see it is mounted in a similar way as the the NZXT Kraken x62 I have.

• 1 (flat wide connector) connector goes to SATA connection for power.

• there are 3 connectors for fans, which all connects to the fans on the radiator

• There's a thin round cable, with a rectangular connector on one end, it is usually black with holes for a 9-pin internal USB header. The rectangular end connects to an onboard (internal) USB connector, and the other end connects to the cooler.

• The last connector goes to either the AiO_Pump header or CPU_Fan header, it is not really important which one, I have both on my motherboard, and I have tried both - it makes no difference whatsoever (unless you want to enable BIOS control of the AiO pump - but the cooler software control panel will handle that just fine).

If all of the above checks out, you should consider RMA'ing the cooler, as it might be faulty - the temperatures you describe are way above anything it should be

 

[kolabbj]

Im not sure which one of the LGA i need

 

[MadsModsat]

You need the LGA 115X ones

Here's an image from the manual

 

[kolabbj]

The cooler is loose. I cant get to attach it.The lga doesnt fit. The back is still loose

 

[kolabbj]

It doesnt have contact with the processor

 

[MadsModsat]

The bracket on the backside of the motherboard will be loose during the installation process, even when mounted correctly, that is a part of the process - so that part isn't wrong... At least not until the pump housing is installed, of course.

The cooler / pump housing itself, should be firmly attached when the thumbscrews are tightened (in a criss-cross pattern) - nothing should be able to move or appear to be loose, once the thumbscrews are tight - it should be firmly seated - including the backplate, which is now being held tightly in place by the the cooler / pump housing.

If anything at all is loose when you have finished up the installation process, it is not mounted correctly, and you'll need to start over, ensuring you are using the right brackets, stand-offs and screws for a LGA115X socket install.

Correct stand-offs <-------

 

[MadsModsat]

I'm currently trying out an air cooler, so I actually have the parts for my AiO on the table - these parts should be identical to the parts on your ASUS AiO, and they are the only parts you need for installing the pump on the motherboard.

- these are the parts for the motherboard according to the ASUS installation guide

These are the correct parts "in real life" <----------- Click
(they are a bit worn, I've testing different cooling solutions lately)

EDIT: Pay attention to the length of the stand-offs, the ones for LGA20XX are shorter on one end, and they are wrong for your setup.

 

[kolabbj]

Finally it works. Installing windows now. Thank you for the help.

 

[kolabbj]

Ive got aanother question. The ssd that i connected directly into the motherboard isnt showing up. I only get the one i connected with sata cable

 

[MadsModsat]

I suppose you are referring to an M.2 (NVMe) SSD drive?

could you please name your M.2 SSD drive make and model, just to clarify?

If in fact it is an NVMe drive, in BIOS, under the Advanced tab, there is a section called “NVMe Configuration” (if you can’t find it, there is a search function in BIOS). Does the drive appear there? Everything should be greyed out, but it should be listed there.

It might be necessary to change BIOS from the default “Legacy & UEFI Mode” to “UEFI Mode”

It usually doesn’t show up in the boot menu until there’s an OS installed on it.
If it shows up in the NVMe Configuration sub menu, it should also appear in the Windows install menu when booting from the install media, even if it is not available in the boot menu in BIOS (it will be after OS install).

If it doesn’t show in the NVMe section of BIOS like I mentioned first, something is not right. Try both of the NVMe drive sockets (M.2_1 and M.2_2)

Unlike a lot of other motherbords, this board doesn’t disable any SATA ports when utilizing any or both of the M.2 ports, so you don’t need to take that into consideration -except if your M.2 drive is an SATA type M.2, and not pci-e, there is one SATA3 port which will be disabled, I believe it is number two (SATA_2) port, but I can’t remember. I’ve just crawled into bed, if it hasn’t been solved before tommorrow, I’ll look at it again.

Edit : If you didn’t refer to the installation proces of Windows, and you have already booted into Windows, you need to go to Computer Management and then Disk Management, and partition it, assign driveletter and format it.