CPU overheating, chasis fans not working, water cooler running at max speeds

[indrikis.silis]

Hi all.
Today I decided to try cleaning out some dust from my pc. I used a dry/lightly damp cloth to clean off some surfaces and the fans. I also moved a few fan connectors around to see if I can get my chasis fans under control, since they are pretty loud. I tried to attach the cases fan controller to the moba and psu separately and at one point both of the chasis fans stopped working. I also tried attaching the 3 ping cpu fan to the controller. After my chasis fans stopped running both of my water cooler radiators started going to 1800+ rpm and I saw CPU temperature go up to 50 idle, bios once showed 90. I have everything back to my original wiring yet the fans dont work and the CPU feels very hot when touching the back.
CPU i7-6700k
Water cooler Corsair h105
Motherboard Asus z170 pro
Case NZXT Source 530

Im not sure if Ive broken the cpu coolers fan (i had the cpu fan not recognised error come up, fixed it by setting cpu fan speed to ignore) since I can hear water moving when I boot it up, yet less than normaly.

 

[weberdarren97]

Okay. Please plug the radiator fans into the CPU and CPU_OPT fan connectors. The CPU fan connector is labeled CPU, is white and is at the top of the board. The second CPU fan connector is labeled CPU_OPT, is black and is between the CPU fan header and the socket where the pump and CPU are.

Please plug the wire from the pump into the Water Pump header. The water pump header is white, and is to the right of the CHA_FAN connector, which is found below the white plastic on the left of the board.

Please plug your case fans into CHA_FAN1 (found on the left under the white plastic) and CHA_FAN2 (found on the top right corner).

Once your fans and pumps are connected, please go into BIOS and do a Load Optimized Defaults. This will reset any fan settings that you may have changed. When motherboards and/or fans start acting up after changing fan settings, this is usually where I start.

 

[indrikis.silis]

Im unable to find the water pump header. Theres only CHA_FAN 1 , 2 and 3. My thoughts are that the water pump isnt turning on since I plugged it into the fan controller.

 

[weberdarren97]

Im unable to find the water pump header. Theres only CHA_FAN 1 , 2 and 3. My thoughts are that the water pump isnt turning on since I plugged it into the fan controller.

What fan controller?

If it's one built into the case or a 5.25 inch front panel thing, the pump may have overloaded and fried it. Pumps take much more power than fans.

What is the exact model of your board? You said Asus Z170 pro. Do you mean Asus Z170 Pro, or Asus Z170 Gaming Pro? My instructions were for the one without Gaming in the name.

 

[indrikis.silis]

If you mean frieing the controller then no, I got it to work and my case fans are spinning once more. And yes, the Gaming one, so it probably doesnt havw one. Searched up and down yet nothing. But Im absolutely sure the pump isnt working. CPUs temps are rising and both radiator fans are going ham because of it. Im guessing the pump is dead?

 

[indrikis.silis]

I also read that undervolting a water pump might damage it, so theres that...

 

[weberdarren97]

Yeah, the Gaming version doesn't have a water pump header. Just plug the pump into CHA_FAN1 (just above the small PCIe slot). Go into BIOS and set Chassis Fan 1 connector to 100%, save changes, restart, and see if the pump starts.

 

[indrikis.silis]

Nope doesnt start up. And my fans are still going insane. I checked speedfan and one of the AUX temperatures was showing an insane 127 temperature.I also tried connecting the pump with the psu but that didnt help. It also felt like the computer was lagging as I shut it down. Which it has never done before, its running on an ssd.

 

[weberdarren97]

Nope doesnt start up. And my fans are still going insane. I checked speedfan and one of the AUX temperatures was showing an insane 127 temperature.I also tried connecting the pump with the psu but that didnt help. It also felt like the computer was lagging as I shut it down. Which it has never done before, its running on an ssd.

Okay. Your pump is not working.

Just so you know, that 127C temperature would be the voltage regulators. That's not too hot, but it's warmer than I'd be comfortable with in my system. I usually don't like them to be above 110C.

How long have you had this Corsair AiO CPU cooler?

 

[indrikis.silis]

Ive had it for more than a year and a half. Id say its done its course and did it well. Considering I moved three times in that time, im happy it survived trough. Sturdy thing and reliable on holding down the temps. Shame I lost my warranty papers, I think they were for 2 years. And thanks a bunch for your help.

 

[TJ Hooker]

Okay. Your pump is not working.

Just so you know, that 127C temperature would be the voltage regulators. That's not too hot, but it's warmer than I'd be comfortable with in my system. I usually don't like them to be above 110C.

It sounds like he saw 127C at idle/startup (@indrikis.silis, can you confirm?), the VRMs definitely should not be getting anywhere near that hot unless under heavy load (and even then...). Whether or not the pump is working wouldn't make a difference on VRM temperature, because an AIO liquid cooler doesn't cool the VRMs.

Sometimes monitoring utilities can report wonky numbers for certain temperatures if there's a signal coming from the mobo sensors that the utility doesn't know how to interpret properly. I think I've seen a negative number for the on the non-labelled (i.e. "Temp 3" or something like that) sensor readings in HWiNFO64 on my PC. The 127C reading could be a red herring.

 

[weberdarren97]

Ive had it for more than a year and a half. Id say its done its course and did it well. Considering I moved three times in that time, im happy it survived trough. Sturdy thing and reliable on holding down the temps. Shame I lost my warranty papers, I think they were for 2 years. And thanks a bunch for your help.

It comes with a 5 year manufacturer warranty from Corsair.

Also, unless I'm mistaken, you shouldn't need those papers that came with it. You should just need the cooler and a box to send it back in. I'm not sure if it has to be the original box or not, I'll continue reading the warranty and RMA page and get back to you.

 

[weberdarren97]

Okay I've read through. Apparently you're going to have to create a Corsair account on the Corsair website (if you don't already have one), and you'll need to file an RMA. The RMA process is how Corsair deals with Warranty claims. I've dealt with Asus's and Cooler Master's RMA process, so I imagine this will be pretty similar.

Here's some generic instructions because I have no experience dealing with Corsair's RMA process.

1) Look back through your purchase history (Paypal in my case) to find the purchase receipt for your product. Once you find it, write down the amount, where you bought it from, the date you bought it, and the transaction number.

2) Sign in to your account on the manufacturer's website. If you don't have one, no problem, you can still create one. Go to corsair.com then click on the little person at the top right corner.

3) You can probably skip this step, but I'd bring it up with tech support anyway. I Called tech support to ask for a process to test the product. My products were graphics cards and power supplies. Yours is a cooling device, the fact that it's not providing cooling is probably enough for them to tell that it's broken.

4) Request an RMA through the manufacturer's website. Here's the warranty link for Corsair's site: http://support.corsair.com/ Please note that the site may have a seizure if you don't sign in to corsair.com before going to support.corsair.com... Still kinda buggy, at least for me. Just sign in first, it'll be so much easier.

5) They'll probably want you to fill out an online RMA form with your purchase information along with model number and serial number of your product. This is so they can prove that you actually bought the product.

6) They'll probably want you to print and fill out a copy of the online RMA form or a very similar form.

7) You'll probably have to pay to get your product shipped back to Corsair. Their address will either be online, or on the RMA form you printed out.

8) Make sure you receive confirmation that your RMA request was accepted before you ship. If they deny it, you'll likely have to start over from the beginning, so you'll want to still have your product so that you can revise the information on the form you printed out.

9) You should get another one within a couple weeks. If you don't want to wait, you can file an Advance RMA (same support.corsair.com link I think) which means you'll have to pay to have a new shipped to you, and then you should get the money back when they receive your defective one. This eliminates a lot of time of them trying to figure out whether to try to fix or repair your product, handing it off to the pencil pushers, etc, but it also means you pay for the second unit until your old one arrives. This way, they don't end up giving you a unit and then never get your old one back (an easy way for them to lose money real quick).