CPU overheating in a water loop

[DavidVioMC]

About 3 months ago I water cooled my i5 2500 to have a silent PC rather than better temps, I went the cheap way and got a Coolermaster Nepton 120XL for £10 that had a broken AIO pump, I cut off the stock tubing, then opened up the CPU block, removed the AIO pump circut board, a plastic plate that directed water around the block which also bypassed the AIO pump turbine, so the water had clear way from inlet to outlet tubes, then got a 4W pump with built in reservoir to make it simple and got a 10mm inner diameter tubing, put it all together and my CPU temps at full load were steady at 55c. Then I decided to water cool my GTX 670 aswell as it was blower style and was really loud, got a full cover EK copper waterblock and added it to the loop with the single 120MM rad as people said it should be enough to cool my PC. Now here comes the issue, around the same time or right after I added the GPU block (I'm unsure, thats the issue) my CPU temps were sky rocketing. At idle they're around 44c but my GPU was around 28c, so I though the CPU block wasen't propably seated, I think I remounted it about 3 times, it did not help, and the thermal paste does get nice even spread all over the CPU, my setup was Pump > CPU > Rad > GPU and since my CPU was after my GPU, I though it was overheating it so I got a 240mm rad, mounted it on top so my setup was Pump > 240mm rad > CPU > 120mm rad > GPU but it did almost nothing, cpu temps still about 40c and full load still the same at 81c but the GPU temps dropped to 23c. Im so confused the the CPU block is seated properly and I know the whole AIO block thing works since without GPU at full load CPU was 55c. I am running 50/50 anti-freeze for anti-corrosion substance since the rads are aluminum and blocks are copper. I guess I'll try to trouble shoot and maybe by pass the GPU since I have spare tubing and see if the GPU block is the cause. If you have any ideas or suggestions, please let me know.

 

[jaslion]

About 3 months ago I water cooled my i5 2500 to have a silent PC rather than better temps, I went the cheap way and got a Coolermaster Nepton 120XL for £10 that had a broken AIO pump, I cut off the stock tubing, then opened up the CPU block, removed the AIO pump circut board, a plastic plate that directed water around the block which also bypassed the AIO pump turbine, so the water had clear way from inlet to outlet tubes, then got a 4W pump with built in reservoir to make it simple and got a 10mm inner diameter tubing, put it all together and my CPU temps at full load were steady at 55c. Then I decided to water cool my GTX 670 aswell as it was blower style and was really loud, got a full cover EK copper waterblock and added it to the loop with the single 120MM rad as people said it should be enough to cool my PC. Now here comes the issue, around the same time or right after I added the GPU block (I'm unsure, thats the issue) my CPU temps were sky rocketing. At idle they're around 44c but my GPU was around 28c, so I though the CPU block wasen't propably seated, I think I remounted it about 3 times, it did not help, and the thermal paste does get nice even spread all over the CPU, my setup was Pump > CPU > Rad > GPU and since my CPU was after my GPU, I though it was overheating it so I got a 240mm rad, mounted it on top so my setup was Pump > 240mm rad > CPU > 120mm rad > GPU but it did almost nothing, cpu temps still about 40c and full load still the same at 81c but the GPU temps dropped to 23c. Im so confused the the CPU block is seated properly and I know the whole AIO block thing works since without GPU at full load CPU was 55c. I am running 50/50 anti-freeze for anti-corrosion substance since the rads are aluminum and blocks are copper. I guess I'll try to trouble shoot and maybe by pass the GPU since I have spare tubing and see if the GPU block is the cause. If you have any ideas or suggestions, please let me know.

Since you made a modifief nepton work it could be that your mods have failed and it's no longer properly working. Also no amount of anti corrosion liquid is going to keep a mixed metal loop working for long just thought I'd let you know.

 

[DavidVioMC]

About 3 months ago I water cooled my i5 2500 to have a silent PC rather than better temps, I went the cheap way and got a Coolermaster Nepton 120XL for £10 that had a broken AIO pump, I cut off the stock tubing, then opened up the CPU block, removed the AIO pump circut board, a plastic plate that directed water around the block which also bypassed the AIO pump turbine, so the water had clear way from inlet to outlet tubes, then got a 4W pump with built in reservoir to make it simple and got a 10mm inner diameter tubing, put it all together and my CPU temps at full load were steady at 55c. Then I decided to water cool my GTX 670 aswell as it was blower style and was really loud, got a full cover EK copper waterblock and added it to the loop with the single 120MM rad as people said it should be enough to cool my PC. Now here comes the issue, around the same time or right after I added the GPU block (I'm unsure, thats the issue) my CPU temps were sky rocketing. At idle they're around 44c but my GPU was around 28c, so I though the CPU block wasen't propably seated, I think I remounted it about 3 times, it did not help, and the thermal paste does get nice even spread all over the CPU, my setup was Pump > CPU > Rad > GPU and since my CPU was after my GPU, I though it was overheating it so I got a 240mm rad, mounted it on top so my setup was Pump > 240mm rad > CPU > 120mm rad > GPU but it did almost nothing, cpu temps still about 40c and full load still the same at 81c but the GPU temps dropped to 23c. Im so confused the the CPU block is seated properly and I know the whole AIO block thing works since without GPU at full load CPU was 55c. I am running 50/50 anti-freeze for anti-corrosion substance since the rads are aluminum and blocks are copper. I guess I'll try to trouble shoot and maybe by pass the GPU since I have spare tubing and see if the GPU block is the cause. If you have any ideas or suggestions, please let me know.

Since you made a modifief nepton work it could be that your mods have failed and it's no longer properly working. Also no amount of anti corrosion liquid is going to keep a mixed metal loop working for long just thought I'd let you know.

But what could possibly fail? I was in the process of draining the loop to bypass the GPU block when I noticed white cloudy liquid floating at the bottom of the bottle after I let it sit for few minutes, I'm unsure if thats glycol or something else so I'm flashing the loop right now with distilled water, then I'll try again booting and see if the temptures went down after flashing, if they have, then its possible that CPU block may be clogged up with whatever the white stuff is, and it dosen't look like corrosion, it's more like water mixed with flour but it's still I would say 35% see thru. When it comes to the corrosion and mixing metals, yes, I'm aware of mixing them and what happens ect. but from what I have read and seen people past experience, if you keep flushing the loop every 6 months, use anti-freeze and once a year scrub the blocks with toothbrush and flush the rads with vinegar, mixed loops can go for years with no signs of corrosion. Nepton 120XL come with 5 year warranty and they also have copper block with aluminium rad and they only come factory with glycol-free anti-freeze inside. Corrosion only ruins loops quickly if the PC sits for long amount of time without an use and with only tap/distilled water in the loop.

 

[DavidVioMC]

After flushing the system three times to ensure it's clean, I booted up and my temps are completely fine, cpu is at 30c idle when before it was 44c idle and GPU is the same as before, so it does seem the white stuff in the coolent was inside the CPU block or the coolent has gone bad or something, I also did a mistake by re-using it for the third time when I was adding the 240mm rad, maybe that was the issue. Obviously the idle temps are fine but I can't stress test the CPU yet since the system is bleeding air as I'm writing this, good thing I flushed the system before bypassing the GPU and ripping out the CPU block to clean it like I was planning to do, saved me a lot of hussle.

 

[Insomniac Jack]

You will continue to have problems with this loop. You're running mixed metals with basically antifreeze. Corrosion will continually build up in your coolant and your blocks/Rads could become blocked. Mixed metals is a very bad idea.

 

[jaslion]

After flushing the system three times to ensure it's clean, I booted up and my temps are completely fine, cpu is at 30c idle when before it was 44c idle and GPU is the same as before, so it does seem the white stuff in the coolent was inside the CPU block or the coolent has gone bad or something, I also did a mistake by re-using it for the third time when I was adding the 240mm rad, maybe that was the issue. Obviously the idle temps are fine but I can't stress test the CPU yet since the system is bleeding air as I'm writing this, good thing I flushed the system before bypassing the GPU and ripping out the CPU block to clean it like I was planning to do, saved me a lot of hussle.

The white fluff is either:

Parts of alluminum that have dissolved due to mixed metal.
Parts of plastic/rubber that have dissolved due to chemicals.

 

[1LiquidPC]

Any pics of this available?