nothing changed. also when looking for my exact psu model I realized it is a 600w rather then a 750 like a claimed it to be. Here is the link to the model on Best Buy, https://www.bestbuy.com/site/evga-600w-atx-12v-eps-12v-80-plus-power-supply-black/8511029.p?skuId=8511029. I bought this psu almost a year ago. Thanks, for all you help so far.Ok, so that IS a rather important point, so I'm glad you specified that. It helps to eliminate a pretty common short list of issues.
What is the exact model of your 750w EVGA power supply, or at least, what series is it from, and how long has it been in service?
Have you tried a hard reset of the BIOS, because sometimes for whatever reason that seems to be a magic bullet in a lot of cases where the system was working fine, power was removed and then restored and the system unexpectedly fails to POST.
BIOS Hard Reset procedure
Power off the unit, switch the PSU off and unplug the PSU cord from either the wall or the power supply.
Remove the motherboard CMOS battery for five minutes. In some cases it may be necessary to remove the graphics card to access the CMOS battery.
During that five minutes, press the power button on the case for 30 seconds. After the five minutes is up, reinstall the CMOS battery making sure to insert it with the correct side up just as it came out.
If you had to remove the graphics card you can now reinstall it, but remember to reconnect your power cables if there were any attached to it as well as your display cable.
Now, plug the power supply cable back in, switch the PSU back on and power up the system. It should display the POST screen and the options to enter CMOS/BIOS setup. Enter the bios setup program and reconfigure the boot settings for either the Windows boot manager or for legacy systems, the drive your OS is installed on if necessary.
Save settings and exit. If the system will POST and boot then you can move forward from there including going back into the bios and configuring any other custom settings you may need to configure such as Memory XMP profile settings, custom fan profile settings or other specific settings you may have previously had configured that were wiped out by resetting the CMOS.
In some cases it may be necessary when you go into the BIOS after a reset, to load the Optimal default or Default values and then save settings, to actually get the hardware tables to reset in the boot manager.
It is probably also worth mentioning that for anything that might require an attempt to DO a hard reset in the first place, it is a GOOD IDEA to try a different type of display as many systems will not work properly for some reason with displayport configurations. It is worth trying HDMI if you are having no display or lack of visual ability to enter the BIOS, or no signal messages.
Also, I would double and triple check EVERYTHING listed at the following link, JUST to be sure. Overlook nothing. Even if you don't THINK it might be relevant or think it is good. Unplug and reconnect every connection JUST TO BE SURE. Especially the memory and graphics card, but also the motherboard connections, CPU fan (Make sure you didn't miss the alignment of that connection by one pin, or some other fan connection by a pin to the left or right.)
"No POST", "system won't boot", and "no video output" troubleshooting checklist This checklist is a compilation of troubleshooting ideas from many forum members. It's very important to actually perform every step in the checklist if you want to effectively troubleshoot your problem. 1.Did you...forums.tomshardware.com
unfortunately the psu seems to be working . When I connected the green and black cable on the 24 pin connector, the fan on the psu started running. This leads me to believe I may have a mobo issue. Which sucks as the psu would have been a much cheaper fix. Anymore tests I should do on psu. And what new tests should I do on mobo?
Hey, sorry for the radio silence I’ve been busy recently. I tested the PSU and it is working. However, when I took a closer look at my mobo, I saw that it had slight corrosion around the cpu 8 pin power port (this is on the back of the mobo. I am thinking this is my problem. I don’t now how they got corroded but they are. Is this the issue? If. So is it possible to replace the connector or do I need to get a new mobo. Fortunately it is under warranty and I have a receipt from the micro center I purchased it from. Any tips? Thanks.Just because the PSU fan turns on, does not mean that the PSU is capable of delivering the required power on any of the rails. If you have no power coming out of the PSU with it powered on, as seen at the following video, then it is no good. If you do, then it STILL might not be any good, under a load, but should certainly at least TRY to turn on.
This is EXACTLY how to test, using a volt meter: