Crashes possibly because of PSU?

brunoisakk

Reputable
Apr 6, 2014
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4,510
I'm having reboots while gaming for a while now. I've had this computer for almost a year now and about a month ago my old PSU died due to a power shutdown in my house, after that I bought a new PSU (a cheap one), just plugged that in and I'm not sure how long after my computer started crashing while gaming. I'll describe the crashes below:

1. My computer starts making a whizzing noise (not sure if that's the GPU or what) louder and louder.
2. The FPS drops like crazy (the FPS is not as good as it used to be before my old PSU died even when its stable)
3. Computer reboots. (I can post the dump files later if you want)

I'll show you too screenshots taken from HWMonitor, the first one while the computer is idle, the second one while I'm running FurMark to cause heavy load.

Idle: http://i.imgur.com/2et4NsW.jpg
Heavy Load: http://i.imgur.com/1vorfAt.jpg

I'm not a hardware expert so, I'm kinda desperated, I'm not sure whats wrong with the computer, I've tried to format but that didn't help so I'm pretty sure it's a hardware issue. I dont want to buy anything until I'm certain about what's wrong with the computer, because well, who likes throwing money away?

So, yeah, that's my problem, I'm looking for you to see what more experienced people think about whats wrong with my computer.

Thank you in advance for any information or suggestions you can give me.
 
Solution
Are you using a liquid cooling solution for your CPU? I'm going to venture offhand that perhaps your VRM is overheating (I'm not sure where "TMPIN1" is, the locations aren't standardized) which may easily be caused by wonky incoming voltages (I'm not believing the voltages HWM is reporting though, they are too far out of specs (especially the 12v) to be credible). I'll suggest two courses of action to start; 1) remove the side cover and place a desk fan so that it is pointing toward the VRM (usually just to the left of the CPU), see if TMPIN1 doesn't get a little cooler and, 2) (you knew this was coming) replace your PSU with a higher quality one from such brands as Antec, Enermax, SeaSonic, SuperFlower, all of whom make their own PSU's...
Are you using a liquid cooling solution for your CPU? I'm going to venture offhand that perhaps your VRM is overheating (I'm not sure where "TMPIN1" is, the locations aren't standardized) which may easily be caused by wonky incoming voltages (I'm not believing the voltages HWM is reporting though, they are too far out of specs (especially the 12v) to be credible). I'll suggest two courses of action to start; 1) remove the side cover and place a desk fan so that it is pointing toward the VRM (usually just to the left of the CPU), see if TMPIN1 doesn't get a little cooler and, 2) (you knew this was coming) replace your PSU with a higher quality one from such brands as Antec, Enermax, SeaSonic, SuperFlower, all of whom make their own PSU's or brands such as Corsair, EVGA, NZXT, Rosewill and Silverstone (who contract out the manufacture of their PSU's but (for the most part) use quality designs).
 
Solution


Thanks for answering C12Friedman, no, I'm not using liquid cooling solutions, I've searched about that "TMPIN1" high temperature and it seems like it's a bug from the software, anyway, I'll open the side cover and place a desk fan for now and see if it gets any better, but that's just a temp. solution, so you would recommend me using liquid cooling solutions for the CPU as a stable solution, right?
Also, if I'm going to buy a new PSU, what potency would you recommend me? Geforce 550ti and i5 3330 quad core.
Thank you in advance

 
Actually the concern of liquid cooling is that there is quite a bit less airflow over the VRM which could cause high temps there. One of the drawbacks of liquid cooling is that the airflow that would've come off the CPU fan and across the VRM (in most cases) helps dissipate heat, you lose that airflow with a water block.
I'd recommend a 500W (or greater) PSU, something like the SeaSonic M12II 520 Bronze which is a semi-modular PSU of good (if a little old) design and quality (plus it's only $10 more than the least expensive one I could recommend which wasn't modular)