Custom Water Loop

[AmishTurtle]

I was wondering if this was a good option for a custom water cooling loop. I was looking at this kit and am seriously considering it.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/complete-kits/xspc-rayst...

Is Photon reservoir better or worse (they are both the same price)

I really don't have the time or the patients to go and look for each part individually. Would this be good if I where to overclock my i7 4770k. Will it leak. How good is the pump. What do the experts have to say? Thanks for all and any help. Other suggestions would be much appreciated too. I am very concerned about leaks.

 

[rubix_1011]

Your link is broken. Without knowing which exact kit you are looking at, it is very difficult to give you more info on the pump, etc.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/complete-kits/shopby/brand--xspc/ (look at the BB code and you'll see how to construct links in the forum. You typically cannot simply paste a URL in and have it work correctly.)

So, you don't have the time to learn about watercooling but are willing to spend a couple hundred dollars and the trust of complete strangers to tell you 'what you should get'?

This is a very dangerous situation to put yourself in...who is to say that you choose the correct gear to buy based on the advice you're given? There have been a lot of people who have been shown poor advice and almost taken it.

The questions you are asking (and many more) are covered in the watercooling sticky.

It appears you have not read much around on the forums, here is the 'what if it leaks' statement....once again. Leaks can occur, this is a byproduct of installing liquid cooling into your system. If you do not understand what you are doing or the consequences of doing so, you might be better off not doing so. Most custom loop leaks are due to user installation error, not hardware failure or defect.

My point is this - if you have the time to post a thread asking all of these things and wait for all the 'answers', you have the time to do some research and learning on your own. This will go a very long way in helping you understand what you are wanting to and why.

 

[AmishTurtle]

Your link is broken. Without knowing which exact kit you are looking at, it is very difficult to give you more info on the pump, etc.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/complete-kits/shopby/brand--xspc/ (look at the BB code and you'll see how to construct links in the forum. You typically cannot simply paste a URL in and have it work correctly.)

So, you don't have the time to learn about watercooling but are willing to spend a couple hundred dollars and the trust of complete strangers to tell you 'what you should get'?

This is a very dangerous situation to put yourself in...who is to say that you choose the correct gear to buy based on the advice you're given? There have been a lot of people who have been shown poor advice and almost taken it.

The questions you are asking (and many more) are covered in the watercooling sticky.

It appears you have not read much around on the forums, here is the 'what if it leaks' statement....once again. Leaks can occur, this is a byproduct of installing liquid cooling into your system. If you do not understand what you are doing or the consequences of doing so, you might be better off not doing so. Most custom loop leaks are due to user installation error, not hardware failure or defect.

My point is this - if you have the time to post a thread asking all of these things and wait for all the 'answers', you have the time to do some research and learning on your own. This will go a very long way in helping you understand what you are wanting to and why.

I have spent many hours researching water cooling. I am just not comfortable with the fact that I could miss a part or a fitting. This kit would be over $400 if I where to part it out individual. That is the main reason why I am looking at the kits. They are exponentially less expensive that buying the parts individually.

link again: http://

 

[rubix_1011]

If you aren't comfortable with missing parts to build a loop, you might wish to spend a bit more time focusing on what you need. Even so, if you forget something, just pick it up later - no harm done.

A 'kit' is just a kit- it will provide you with basically what you need, but always remember it is fairly generic as it is meant for those who really aren't certain what all they want to buy. Many are also less expensive because they cut corners on components like the pump or radiator used. XSPC does this with their X20 pumps; most of their kits are available as a DDC or D5 pump option, but the X20 pump is substantially cheaper that it draws people in. The pump is good for the loop as-is, but not really for any type of expansion.

Your linked kit with the AX360 & D5 is a solid choice.

 

[AmishTurtle]

If you aren't comfortable with missing parts to build a loop, you might wish to spend a bit more time focusing on what you need. Even so, if you forget something, just pick it up later - no harm done.

A 'kit' is just a kit- it will provide you with basically what you need, but always remember it is fairly generic as it is meant for those who really aren't certain what all they want to buy. Many are also less expensive because they cut corners on components like the pump or radiator used. XSPC does this with their X20 pumps; most of their kits are available as a DDC or D5 pump option, but the X20 pump is substantially cheaper that it draws people in. The pump is good for the loop as-is, but not really for any type of expansion.

Your linked kit with the AX360 & D5 is a solid choice.

If I where to pick my own parts could I put them in this post and you could take a look at them. Seem like you know much more than I do and it would be externally helpful. Also the only part I don't understand is the compression fitting sizes and tubing sizes. Is it possible to make a good water cooling loop for under $300? Are you saying that the kit might be a viable choice or should I go with my own parts.

Thanks so much,

 

[rubix_1011]

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/277130-29-read-first-watercooling-sticky#3718885

Tubing and Fittings


Tubing can be as generic as the hardware store vinyl tubing at your local Ace Hardware, Home Depot or Lowes or as complex as the Feser, Primochill, Masterkleer or Tygon brands you find online among other watercooling components. Your average hardware store vinyl tubing is typically thin walled and does not make tight radius bends well, while your premium brands are very flexible and come in most commonly used ID and OD tubing sizes for watercooling as well as in many colors. If you are needing some good bends made, consider getting good tubing, but understand most is upwards of $1.50-$2.50 per linear foot.

Fittings are one that cause a lot of confusion for most newcomers. Here is a simple way to understand the terminology that accompanys each:

I.D. - Inside diameter, most commonly referring to the ID of the tubing to be used. 1/2"ID means that wall to wall, the inside of the tubing measures 1/2" (metric is also used and is measured in millimeters or mm)

O.D.- Outside diameter, similar to the ID, the OD simply is the measurement of the tubing through the cross-section from one side of the outer wall to the other.

G1/4 - This is the one that confuses the most people. This refers to the threaded fitting standard that is used by almost all waterblocks and radiators. It is the end of the fitting that gets screwed into the block or rad; the other end of this same fitting is measured with the I.D. standard for tubing size. If you are unsure if the threaded fitting size is G1/4 double check before threading the fitting as you can easily cross thread a fitting that isn't using this standard.

Barbs- Barbs are very common and have been used as the primary fitting type in watercooling for many, many years. It offers a threaded end for connection to radiators, blocks and reservoirs and are typically G1/4, but other standard sizes have been used as well. Once the barb is threaded into the applicable port and secured, the tubing slides over the 'barbed' end which help secure the tubing, usually with some kind of clamp for extra precaution. You can also use a slightly larger barb size than tubing size for a more snug fit; ex. 7/16"ID tubing over a 1/2"ID barb. This will require you to dip the tubing ends in hot water to soften in order to slide them easily over the fitting end.

Compression Fittings - These fittings are actually the combination of a barb and a clamp into a fitting that secures the compression ring onto the fitting by threading it down. The threaded end of the fitting is installed as it is with a normal barb, and prior to pushing the tubing over the barb, ensure the threaded compression ring is slid over the tubing with the threads facing the correct way. Push the tubing over the barb and then slide the compression ring down over the barb and thread/secure to the fitting itself. This clamps and seals the tubing in place.

 

[AmishTurtle]

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/277130-29-read-first-watercooling-sticky#3718885

Tubing and Fittings


Tubing can be as generic as the hardware store vinyl tubing at your local Ace Hardware, Home Depot or Lowes or as complex as the Feser, Primochill, Masterkleer or Tygon brands you find online among other watercooling components. Your average hardware store vinyl tubing is typically thin walled and does not make tight radius bends well, while your premium brands are very flexible and come in most commonly used ID and OD tubing sizes for watercooling as well as in many colors. If you are needing some good bends made, consider getting good tubing, but understand most is upwards of $1.50-$2.50 per linear foot.

Fittings are one that cause a lot of confusion for most newcomers. Here is a simple way to understand the terminology that accompanys each:

I.D. - Inside diameter, most commonly referring to the ID of the tubing to be used. 1/2"ID means that wall to wall, the inside of the tubing measures 1/2" (metric is also used and is measured in millimeters or mm)

O.D.- Outside diameter, similar to the ID, the OD simply is the measurement of the tubing through the cross-section from one side of the outer wall to the other.

G1/4 - This is the one that confuses the most people. This refers to the threaded fitting standard that is used by almost all waterblocks and radiators. It is the end of the fitting that gets screwed into the block or rad; the other end of this same fitting is measured with the I.D. standard for tubing size. If you are unsure if the threaded fitting size is G1/4 double check before threading the fitting as you can easily cross thread a fitting that isn't using this standard.

Barbs- Barbs are very common and have been used as the primary fitting type in watercooling for many, many years. It offers a threaded end for connection to radiators, blocks and reservoirs and are typically G1/4, but other standard sizes have been used as well. Once the barb is threaded into the applicable port and secured, the tubing slides over the 'barbed' end which help secure the tubing, usually with some kind of clamp for extra precaution. You can also use a slightly larger barb size than tubing size for a more snug fit; ex. 7/16"ID tubing over a 1/2"ID barb. This will require you to dip the tubing ends in hot water to soften in order to slide them easily over the fitting end.

Compression Fittings - These fittings are actually the combination of a barb and a clamp into a fitting that secures the compression ring onto the fitting by threading it down. The threaded end of the fitting is installed as it is with a normal barb, and prior to pushing the tubing over the barb, ensure the threaded compression ring is slid over the tubing with the threads facing the correct way. Push the tubing over the barb and then slide the compression ring down over the barb and thread/secure to the fitting itself. This clamps and seals the tubing in place.

So is this basically saying that any barb can fit into most tubes. Same with the others?

 

[rubix_1011]

No.

The barb or compression fitting size in OD is the ID size of the tubing it is designed to fit. Example: a 1/2" OD barb should fit a 1/2" ID piece of tubing. You *can* use slightly smaller tubing over a barb or fitting to have it create a more snug fit, but anything different than 1/16" ID might be excessively difficult to force on.

You can't use a smaller fitting on a larger ID set of tubing, for obvious reasons.

 

[AmishTurtle]

No.

The barb or compression fitting size in OD is the ID size of the tubing it is designed to fit. Example: a 1/2" OD barb should fit a 1/2" ID piece of tubing. You *can* use slightly smaller tubing over a barb or fitting to have it create a more snug fit, but anything different than 1/16" ID might be excessively difficult to force on.

You can't use a smaller fitting on a larger ID set of tubing, for obvious reasons.

So just match tubing to compression fitting specs?

 

[rubix_1011]

Please understand that this is exactly the reason (the questions you are asking) why I wrote the watercooling sticky - thousands of threads like this where the poster could just read and learn on what is needed instead of just asking and 'tell me what to buy'...there isn't an understanding of why.

Understanding fitting and tubing sizing doesn't just stop at 'what size fits', you then need to understand what size OD of tubing you need for your compression fittings. Thin walled tubing is usually 1/16" and thick walled is 1/8". This makes a big difference when choosing compression fitting sizes for tubing OD, otherwise the compression cap of the fitting won't seal down over the OD of the tubing properly.


Edit: I added an image of a compression fitting with the barb fitting now.