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Archived from groups: alt.comp.hardware.overclocking.amd (More info?)

I know this must have been asked a trillion times, but can anyone direct
me to a site that shows multiplier and vid mods on a die locked athlon
xp 2000+? All I seem to find is the older xp's that have an L1 bridge
available. I would like to fool around with it, but at the same time, I
don't wanna fark it up! lol

Thank you in advance,
And hope it doesn't pop too many blood vessels for the amount of times
it has been asked!
 
Archived from groups: alt.comp.hardware.overclocking.amd (More info?)

It says to change the desktop to mobile. I know how to do that, what I
would like to know precisely is what bridges to set vid and multi? Also,
with those bridge values set, does that determine a max value you can
set via cpumsr for multi, or is it the only value you can set?

ie, connecting a bridge will set multi to 16x can I adjust with proggy
to 16x and below?

All in all, my goal is to get 16x multi at 133 fsb (ram is at 266, and I
don't have the cash to buy 333 or 400). I'm assuming a vcore of 1.7
should be ok?

Thanks for any help.

Ed Light wrote:
> Not sure if this covers it.
>
> http://www.cpuheat.wz.cz/html/Tweaks.htm
>
>
 
Archived from groups: alt.comp.hardware.overclocking.amd (More info?)

On Sun, 05 Dec 2004 15:41:41 -0500, Browser Joe wrote:

> I know this must have been asked a trillion times, but can anyone direct
> me to a site that shows multiplier and vid mods on a die locked athlon
> xp 2000+? All I seem to find is the older xp's that have an L1 bridge
> available. I would like to fool around with it, but at the same time, I
> don't wanna fark it up! lol
>
http://fab51.com/index-e.html

--
Abit KT7-Raid (KT133) Tbred B core CPU @2400MHz (24x100FSB)
http://mysite.verizon.net/res0exft/cpu.htm
 
Archived from groups: alt.comp.hardware.overclocking.amd (More info?)

Ok, great site thanks! One thing I'm confused with though is that most
other sites I found talk about filling in the laser pits with non
conductive material. This site however says to fill it in to join the
bridges? Is filling the pit the same as connecting the "dots"? If so,
then, the laser cut actually cuts the bridges and not to a ground short
like most sites say?

Now I'm really confused?!



Wes Newell wrote:
> On Sun, 05 Dec 2004 15:41:41 -0500, Browser Joe wrote:
>
>
>>I know this must have been asked a trillion times, but can anyone direct
>>me to a site that shows multiplier and vid mods on a die locked athlon
>>xp 2000+? All I seem to find is the older xp's that have an L1 bridge
>>available. I would like to fool around with it, but at the same time, I
>>don't wanna fark it up! lol
>>
>
> http://fab51.com/index-e.html
>
 
Archived from groups: alt.comp.hardware.overclocking.amd (More info?)

"Browser Joe" <i.dont@think.so> wrote in message
news:MjQsd.16250$dC3.217405@news20.bellglobal.com...
> It says to change the desktop to mobile. I know how to do that, what I
> would like to know precisely is what bridges to set vid and multi? Also,
> with those bridge values set, does that determine a max value you can set
> via cpumsr for multi, or is it the only value you can set?
>
> ie, connecting a bridge will set multi to 16x can I adjust with proggy to
> 16x and below?
>
> All in all, my goal is to get 16x multi at 133 fsb (ram is at 266, and I
> don't have the cash to buy 333 or 400). I'm assuming a vcore of 1.7 should
> be ok?
>
> Thanks for any help.
>
> Ed Light wrote:
>> Not sure if this covers it.
>>
>> http://www.cpuheat.wz.cz/html/Tweaks.htm
>>

It has a link on there to this:

http://fab51.com/cpu/barton/athlon-e23.html


--
--
Ed Light

Smiley :-/
MS Smiley :-\

Send spam to the FTC at
uce@ftc.gov
Thanks, robots.
 
Archived from groups: alt.comp.hardware.overclocking.amd (More info?)

Sorry, I realized that after the fact...

Ed Light wrote:
> "Browser Joe" <i.dont@think.so> wrote in message
> news:MjQsd.16250$dC3.217405@news20.bellglobal.com...
>
>>It says to change the desktop to mobile. I know how to do that, what I
>>would like to know precisely is what bridges to set vid and multi? Also,
>>with those bridge values set, does that determine a max value you can set
>>via cpumsr for multi, or is it the only value you can set?
>>
>>ie, connecting a bridge will set multi to 16x can I adjust with proggy to
>>16x and below?
>>
>>All in all, my goal is to get 16x multi at 133 fsb (ram is at 266, and I
>>don't have the cash to buy 333 or 400). I'm assuming a vcore of 1.7 should
>>be ok?
>>
>>Thanks for any help.
>>
>>Ed Light wrote:
>>
>>>Not sure if this covers it.
>>>
>>>http://www.cpuheat.wz.cz/html/Tweaks.htm
>>>
>
>
> It has a link on there to this:
>
> http://fab51.com/cpu/barton/athlon-e23.html
>
>
 
Archived from groups: alt.comp.hardware.overclocking.amd (More info?)

On Mon, 06 Dec 2004 10:43:49 -0500, Browser Joe wrote:

> Ok, great site thanks! One thing I'm confused with though is that most
> other sites I found talk about filling in the laser pits with non
> conductive material. This site however says to fill it in to join the
> bridges? Is filling the pit the same as connecting the "dots"? If so,
> then, the laser cut actually cuts the bridges and not to a ground short
> like most sites say?
>
> Now I'm really confused?!
>
There's a ground plane under the substrate, so as long as grounding the
"dots" is what you are trying to it doesn't matter. When you close the L3
multiplier bridges, you are pulling the dots high, not grounding them, so
if you don't fill in the laser cuts it will ground them and cause havoc.

--
Abit KT7-Raid (KT133) Tbred B core CPU @2400MHz (24x100FSB)
http://mysite.verizon.net/res0exft/cpu.htm
 
Archived from groups: alt.comp.hardware.overclocking.amd (More info?)

Ok! I got myself a mobile now... but I seem to be stuck at a max 11x
multiplier? I read that if all bridges remain closed, it will have a max
of 24x? I must've done something wrong!

BTW, I modded the vid bridges, but I guess it wasn't necessary as I have
full control over vcore in cpumsr...

Wes Newell wrote:
> On Mon, 06 Dec 2004 10:43:49 -0500, Browser Joe wrote:
>
>
>>Ok, great site thanks! One thing I'm confused with though is that most
>>other sites I found talk about filling in the laser pits with non
>>conductive material. This site however says to fill it in to join the
>>bridges? Is filling the pit the same as connecting the "dots"? If so,
>>then, the laser cut actually cuts the bridges and not to a ground short
>>like most sites say?
>>
>>Now I'm really confused?!
>>
>
> There's a ground plane under the substrate, so as long as grounding the
> "dots" is what you are trying to it doesn't matter. When you close the L3
> multiplier bridges, you are pulling the dots high, not grounding them, so
> if you don't fill in the laser cuts it will ground them and cause havoc.
>
 
Archived from groups: alt.comp.hardware.overclocking.amd (More info?)

Never mind about the multipliers... I misread. I have it set to a max of
16x, but I can only go to 15x without locking up. Also, my voltage in
cpumsr seems to be changing, but in other probe proggies (speedfan,
asusprobe, cpuid) it reports a vcore of 1.5v?? I did the vid mod as per
my previous post, but I guess it didn't take effect?

I'm learning here, bare with me... Thanks!

Although, I now have 1.991 ghz at 133 fsb! 😀

Browser Joe wrote:
> Ok! I got myself a mobile now... but I seem to be stuck at a max 11x
> multiplier? I read that if all bridges remain closed, it will have a max
> of 24x? I must've done something wrong!
>
> BTW, I modded the vid bridges, but I guess it wasn't necessary as I have
> full control over vcore in cpumsr...
>
> Wes Newell wrote:
>
>> On Mon, 06 Dec 2004 10:43:49 -0500, Browser Joe wrote:
>>
>>
>>> Ok, great site thanks! One thing I'm confused with though is that
>>> most other sites I found talk about filling in the laser pits with
>>> non conductive material. This site however says to fill it in to join
>>> the bridges? Is filling the pit the same as connecting the "dots"? If
>>> so, then, the laser cut actually cuts the bridges and not to a ground
>>> short like most sites say?
>>>
>>> Now I'm really confused?!
>>>
>>
>> There's a ground plane under the substrate, so as long as grounding the
>> "dots" is what you are trying to it doesn't matter. When you close the L3
>> multiplier bridges, you are pulling the dots high, not grounding them, so
>> if you don't fill in the laser cuts it will ground them and cause havoc.
>>
 
Archived from groups: alt.comp.hardware.overclocking.amd (More info?)

On Mon, 06 Dec 2004 21:40:30 +0000, Wes Newell wrote:

> There's a ground plane under the substrate, so as long as grounding the
> "dots" is what you are trying to it doesn't matter. When you close the L3
> multiplier bridges, you are pulling the dots high, not grounding them, so
> if you don't fill in the laser cuts it will ground them and cause havoc.

Don't know what I was thinking, closing L3 bridges pulls them low too.

--
Abit KT7-Raid (KT133) Tbred B core CPU @2400MHz (24x100FSB)
http://mysite.verizon.net/res0exft/cpu.htm
 
Archived from groups: alt.comp.hardware.overclocking.amd (More info?)

Well, I got the multi unlocked. The vcore is stuck on 1.5, even though I
have it modded for 1.7v... The site you referred said that l8 bridges
have the same use as l11 bridge? Is that implying that whatever I do to
l11, I must do to l8? I need to get this to 1.7... Can't do anything
with 1.5 vcore!

Thanks.

Wes Newell wrote:
> On Mon, 06 Dec 2004 21:40:30 +0000, Wes Newell wrote:
>
>
>>There's a ground plane under the substrate, so as long as grounding the
>>"dots" is what you are trying to it doesn't matter. When you close the L3
>>multiplier bridges, you are pulling the dots high, not grounding them, so
>>if you don't fill in the laser cuts it will ground them and cause havoc.
>
>
> Don't know what I was thinking, closing L3 bridges pulls them low too.
>
 
Archived from groups: alt.comp.hardware.overclocking.amd (More info?)

Thanks to all that helped, I guess I must've screwed up the bridges on
l11 or I wasn't making a good connection. I used the wire mod to get
1.7v and no problems (after chopping up all l11 bridges).
My system is now perfectly prime95 stable at :
2124mhx (16x 133fsb)
60C full load in prime95 (for about 1 hour)
54C idle

Yes it runs a little warm, but I am upgrading my cpu cooling. Any
recommendations? I have a thermaltake slim volcano 10+ now. I think the
fan is the problem with it, the heatsink is entirely copper.

Anyways Thanks again especially to Wes, and ed, you guys were pretty
patient!


Browser Joe wrote:
> Well, I got the multi unlocked. The vcore is stuck on 1.5, even though I
> have it modded for 1.7v... The site you referred said that l8 bridges
> have the same use as l11 bridge? Is that implying that whatever I do to
> l11, I must do to l8? I need to get this to 1.7... Can't do anything
> with 1.5 vcore!
>
> Thanks.
>
> Wes Newell wrote:
>
>> On Mon, 06 Dec 2004 21:40:30 +0000, Wes Newell wrote:
>>
>>
>>> There's a ground plane under the substrate, so as long as grounding the
>>> "dots" is what you are trying to it doesn't matter. When you close
>>> the L3
>>> multiplier bridges, you are pulling the dots high, not grounding
>>> them, so
>>> if you don't fill in the laser cuts it will ground them and cause havoc.
>>
>>
>>
>> Don't know what I was thinking, closing L3 bridges pulls them low too.
>>
 
Archived from groups: alt.comp.hardware.overclocking.amd (More info?)

On Tue, 07 Dec 2004 10:17:35 -0500, Browser Joe wrote:

> Thanks to all that helped, I guess I must've screwed up the bridges on
> l11 or I wasn't making a good connection. I used the wire mod to get
> 1.7v and no problems (after chopping up all l11 bridges).

Good going.

> My system is now perfectly prime95 stable at :
> 2124mhx (16x 133fsb)
> 60C full load in prime95 (for about 1 hour)
> 54C idle
>
> Yes it runs a little warm, but I am upgrading my cpu cooling. Any
> recommendations? I have a thermaltake slim volcano 10+ now. I think the
> fan is the problem with it, the heatsink is entirely copper.
>
I don't like the looks of the 10+. It's small and only has a 60x10mm fan
and it's noisy. A 60x25 or 60x38mm high airlow fan would help, but I don't
know how much and you're still going to be stuck with the noise of the
highspeed 60mm fan. A 60->80mm fan adapter may help with a medium speed
80mm fan. At least it would be quieter. Still just don't know how it would
perform. Let us know your results after changing fans.

--
Abit KT7-Raid (KT133) Tbred B core CPU @2400MHz (24x100FSB)
http://mysite.verizon.net/res0exft/cpu.htm
 
Archived from groups: alt.comp.hardware.overclocking.amd (More info?)

Thanks for the kudos wes. Anyways, I've been searching around, and can't
find a heatsink with as small a footprint as I have now. I could move
some caps around by soldering in some wires, but I don't wanna do too
much... I may be pushing my luck! :)

I say the cooler tower (Aerocool), I'm sure that has a small footprint,
but I also saw this:

http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=1104410&CatId=792

I dunno about this heatpipe stuff... Does it actually work? This one has
the smallest footprint out of any I've found.

Thanks for the recommendations!

Wes Newell wrote:
> On Tue, 07 Dec 2004 10:17:35 -0500, Browser Joe wrote:
>
>
>>Thanks to all that helped, I guess I must've screwed up the bridges on
>>l11 or I wasn't making a good connection. I used the wire mod to get
>>1.7v and no problems (after chopping up all l11 bridges).
>
>
> Good going.
>
>
>>My system is now perfectly prime95 stable at :
>>2124mhx (16x 133fsb)
>>60C full load in prime95 (for about 1 hour)
>>54C idle
>>
>>Yes it runs a little warm, but I am upgrading my cpu cooling. Any
>>recommendations? I have a thermaltake slim volcano 10+ now. I think the
>>fan is the problem with it, the heatsink is entirely copper.
>>
>
> I don't like the looks of the 10+. It's small and only has a 60x10mm fan
> and it's noisy. A 60x25 or 60x38mm high airlow fan would help, but I don't
> know how much and you're still going to be stuck with the noise of the
> highspeed 60mm fan. A 60->80mm fan adapter may help with a medium speed
> 80mm fan. At least it would be quieter. Still just don't know how it would
> perform. Let us know your results after changing fans.
>
 
Archived from groups: alt.comp.hardware.overclocking.amd (More info?)

On Tue, 07 Dec 2004 18:10:56 -0500, Browser Joe wrote:

> Thanks for the kudos wes. Anyways, I've been searching around, and can't
> find a heatsink with as small a footprint as I have now. I could move
> some caps around by soldering in some wires, but I don't wanna do too
> much... I may be pushing my luck! :)
>
Most socket A coolers will fit any socket A ATX board. What board do you
have that has to have such a small HS footprint?

> I say the cooler tower (Aerocool), I'm sure that has a small footprint,
> but I also saw this:
>
> http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=1104410&CatId=792
>
> I dunno about this heatpipe stuff... Does it actually work? This one has
> the smallest footprint out of any I've found.

I don't know about it either, but it would be a cold day in hell before
I'd spend more than $20 on a CPU cooler. The one I'd buy now is only about
$10, a TR2-M3. Might want to see if that'll fit your board. If not, just
change fans on the one you have now.

--
Abit KT7-Raid (KT133) Tbred B core CPU @2400MHz (24x100FSB)
http://mysite.verizon.net/res0exft/cpu.htm
 
Archived from groups: alt.comp.hardware.overclocking.amd (More info?)

I have an asus a7v400-mx.
The volcano 10+ barely fits by the caps located about 1/2" from the
socket. Bad layout...

>
> Most socket A coolers will fit any socket A ATX board. What board do you
> have that has to have such a small HS footprint?
>
>
 
Archived from groups: alt.comp.hardware.overclocking.amd (More info?)

hmmm.... I think it may be just the fan that needs changing...
I cracked open the sliding door in the room, and the idle temp dropped
to 45C. Mind you the side panel is always off on my computer. Could it
be that this little high revving fan doesn't move enough air to create a
cooling breeze? I may just get an 80mm fan and fabricate a funnel going
from case side to hs... Do you think that would make a difference?

btw, the mb temp is still at 29C and the hd temp is still at 35C. So
cool still air doesn't do anything for that. Could just simply be that
fan is pulling it in?

Thanks.

Browser Joe wrote:
> I have an asus a7v400-mx.
> The volcano 10+ barely fits by the caps located about 1/2" from the
> socket. Bad layout...
>
>>
>> Most socket A coolers will fit any socket A ATX board. What board do you
>> have that has to have such a small HS footprint?
>>
>>
 
Archived from groups: alt.comp.hardware.overclocking.amd (More info?)

On Wed, 08 Dec 2004 18:18:17 -0500, Browser Joe wrote:

> hmmm.... I think it may be just the fan that needs changing...
> I cracked open the sliding door in the room, and the idle temp dropped
> to 45C. Mind you the side panel is always off on my computer. Could it
> be that this little high revving fan doesn't move enough air to create a
> cooling breeze? I may just get an 80mm fan and fabricate a funnel going
> from case side to hs... Do you think that would make a difference?
>
The fan on your cooler now only puts out 21cfm of air at 36db noise. My
80mm fan puts out 32cfm at 21bd noise. 50% more airflow and about 60& less
noise. You can buy 60->80mm fan adapters for a few bucks. Here's a good
combo.

http://www.nexfan.com/60to80fanad.html
http://www.nexfan.com/evcafan80bab.html

--
Abit KT7-Raid (KT133) Tbred B core CPU @2400MHz (24x100FSB)
http://mysite.verizon.net/res0exft/cpu.htm
 
Archived from groups: alt.comp.hardware.overclocking.amd (More info?)

"Browser Joe" <i.dont@think.so> wrote in message
news:M1Mtd.32302$l%5.1293116@news20.bellglobal.com...
> hmmm.... I think it may be just the fan that needs changing...
> I cracked open the sliding door in the room, and the idle temp dropped
> to 45C. Mind you the side panel is always off on my computer. Could it
> be that this little high revving fan doesn't move enough air to create a
> cooling breeze? I may just get an 80mm fan and fabricate a funnel going
> from case side to hs... Do you think that would make a difference?
>
> btw, the mb temp is still at 29C and the hd temp is still at 35C. So
> cool still air doesn't do anything for that. Could just simply be that
> fan is pulling it in?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Browser Joe wrote:
> > I have an asus a7v400-mx.
> > The volcano 10+ barely fits by the caps located about 1/2" from the
> > socket. Bad layout...
> >
The temp readings on that board are just plain wrong. I recently built a pc
with that board, and the temp readings were giving me absolute fits! I was
hitting 60C after moderate testing, with the computer sitting by an open
window with a cool breeze blowing in. I posted here about it and received
several good suggestions, all of which I tried. Still the temps were high.
I tried 3 coolers, several different thermal pastes, case fans, desk fans
pointed directly at the open side of the case, etc. The pc would still idle
at 45C-52C, then hit 60C during gaming. I've still got the pc here (I built
it for a customer), and I've decided the temp readings are just off. I've
had the same problems with some Biostar boards. If the readings were
correct, I'd have seen some signs of instability or over-heating, but I
haven't. And it's not because I haven't tried. I've stressed this pc to
the max, oc'ed it, oc'ed the 9800Pro AIW in it, etc. All the while I'm
feeling the socket and pcb around the socket for signs of significant heat,
and it ain't there.

Don't worry about it.

jakesnake
 
Archived from groups: alt.comp.hardware.overclocking.amd (More info?)

On this page

http://forums.amd.com/index.php?showtopic=11807”

it says:

But if you PC is not stable, and you think heat might be the cause, you need
to find out what the CPU temps actually are.

The simplest thing is to measure the Heatsink temp as close to the base as
possible. If you don't have a thermometer use this scale:
70C = Burnt Fingures
60C = Painfull
50C = Hot
40C = Pleasantly Warm

Hot is OK as a Full Load temp, anything higher is trouble. Hot on Idle is
trouble.


--
Ed Light

Smiley :-/
MS Smiley :-\

Send spam to the FTC at
uce@ftc.gov
Thanks, robots.
 
Archived from groups: alt.comp.hardware.overclocking.amd (More info?)

jakesnake66 wrote:
> "Browser Joe" <i.dont@think.so> wrote in message
> news:M1Mtd.32302$l%5.1293116@news20.bellglobal.com...
>
>>hmmm.... I think it may be just the fan that needs changing...
>>I cracked open the sliding door in the room, and the idle temp dropped
>>to 45C. Mind you the side panel is always off on my computer. Could it
>>be that this little high revving fan doesn't move enough air to create a
>>cooling breeze? I may just get an 80mm fan and fabricate a funnel going
>>from case side to hs... Do you think that would make a difference?
>>
>>btw, the mb temp is still at 29C and the hd temp is still at 35C. So
>>cool still air doesn't do anything for that. Could just simply be that
>>fan is pulling it in?
>>
>>Thanks.
>>
>>Browser Joe wrote:
>>
>>>I have an asus a7v400-mx.
>>>The volcano 10+ barely fits by the caps located about 1/2" from the
>>>socket. Bad layout...
>>>
>
> The temp readings on that board are just plain wrong. I recently built a pc
> with that board, and the temp readings were giving me absolute fits! I was
> hitting 60C after moderate testing, with the computer sitting by an open
> window with a cool breeze blowing in. I posted here about it and received
> several good suggestions, all of which I tried. Still the temps were high.
> I tried 3 coolers, several different thermal pastes, case fans, desk fans
> pointed directly at the open side of the case, etc. The pc would still idle
> at 45C-52C, then hit 60C during gaming. I've still got the pc here (I built
> it for a customer), and I've decided the temp readings are just off. I've
> had the same problems with some Biostar boards. If the readings were
> correct, I'd have seen some signs of instability or over-heating, but I
> haven't. And it's not because I haven't tried. I've stressed this pc to
> the max, oc'ed it, oc'ed the 9800Pro AIW in it, etc. All the while I'm
> feeling the socket and pcb around the socket for signs of significant heat,
> and it ain't there.
>
> Don't worry about it.
>
> jakesnake
>
>
>
>
>

Great info, thanks. I was aminly looking for piece of mind. Although, I
think I can agree with you. I tried measuring the heat by ed lights
scale, the base is quite cool to the touch, in fact, I took the fan off,
and put a thermometer probe right dead center of the hs and got a
reading of 37C. That reading was taken from the top of baseplate right
over cpu core. I ordered an actual cpu temp probe with lcd display so I
can really see what's happening here.
 
Archived from groups: alt.comp.hardware.overclocking.amd (More info?)

"jakesnake66" <jake@lycos.com> wrote

> In
> Ed's terms, the core was "pleasantly warm."

I'm flattered, but those terms were a quote from the page link I gave. Guess
I should have put them in quote marks.


--
Ed Light

Smiley :-/
MS Smiley :-\

Send spam to the FTC at
uce@ftc.gov
Thanks, robots.
 
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