Disabling ASUS Sabertooth Auto-Overclock and/or Upgrading Cooling to Compensate

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Donald Bronson

Donald Bronson

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Apr 9, 2013
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Hi guys,

I recently did my first build, and have been happy with it in the extreme (it's my first higher-end computer, and for a person who has never before owned a dedicated graphics card, it's more than mind-blowing). I have, however, encountered a problem: when I try to do a lighting build, I hit 100 degrees Celsius in less than a minute. I have noticed that my Sabertooth Z87 has overclocked my 4770K to 4.3 GHz, and am wondering how to override this and tell it to back off a little.

Also, while I'm here, would you guys be willing to offer a pointer or two as to how I might go about cooling my PC properly for this kind of overclock? I currently have one case fan (top rear exhaust) and an Intel stock cooler, and I'm getting a "sorely inadequate" sort of vibe about this setup.

Much thanks for the help.

Hardware:
Intel Core i7-4770K
EVGA GTX660 (Blower-style)
ASUS Sabertooth Z87
Cougar Solution Mid-Tower (Up to 8 case fans: two top, two front, one rear, two side, one bottom; only current fan is exhausting on the rear)
Intel Stock Cooler
8GB G.Skill DDR3
Rosewill 550W PSU (80+ Gold), Bottom-Mounted

Edit: In case I was confusing about the reason I'm asking two questions, it's because I need both short-term and long-term solutions for my problem.
 
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Wow... ya you have a case cooling issue.

First, your case and gpu benefit from negative pressure, so more exhaust than intake. Load that case front intake, top and back exhaust. Decent 40-60cfm fans will be fine, and inexpensive. Second, wire management - gotta let the air move.

Now, auto oc is either bios enabled or AISuite software enabled. Have you used either?

Otherwise consider an aftermarket cooler. Most common is Coolermaster Hyper 212 Evo. There are higher end ones but this decent price/performance
 
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I think it's not so much a case cooling issue at the moment but the fact a AI tune overclock is being used where excessive voltage is being applied for the given clock speed along with the stock Intel cooler and/or the cooler needs to be re-seated or a combination of all of them causing such high temperatures.

Not to mention Haswell is a different chip compared to Ivy Bridge when it comes to overclocking and heat, and overclocking results will depend heavily on your particular CPU. So depending on your CPU a budget CPU cooler like the Hyper 212 may not even be enough, you may need to get a high end air cooler or go to water cooling to keep temperatures in check.

Here's a nice guide to start with uses a different motherboard though.
http://www.overclockers.com/3step-guide-to-overclock-intel-haswell

More information
http://www.overclockers.com/intel-i7-4770k-haswell-cpu-review
 
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I used the bios right at the beginning, but not the advanced mode. I just picked "performance" from the three options. I had to go back in and set the fans to turbo just to get normal temps when idle. I tried bringing up AI Suite III to see if I could de-overclock the processor, but it seems to want to "evaluate" my system by incinerating the processor. I had to do a hard shut down to stop it from frying my internals (I guess it assumes I've got better than stock cooling, and doesn't bother monitoring temperatures). As for wire management, I have routed everything that would reach behind the motherboard (including most of the power cables, which was a pain). Since I'm no expert, though, I thought I'd post pictures and let you guys take a look. Do you see any major problems? (And yes, it is on carpet, but that's unavoidable. It's the only room in which I have the requisite desk space).

EDIT: I forgot to ask in the original post, but which fans would you recommend? Any particular brands that you trust? Any others you avoid like the plague? Also, if noise is a consideration, is there anything I might need to pay attention to? I heard something at some point about rubber screws, or shrouds, or something that's supposed to reduce vibration. It's not currently bothering me, but I've heard some horror stories comparing PCs to hair dryers from others.

Lastly, do you think I need to upgrade my CPU cooler, or can I get away with simply upping my airflow using case fans?

Here are the pictures:
2013-07-18111633_zps341ea84f.jpg

2013-07-18111704_zpsa015dfbc.jpg

2013-07-18114007_zpsdb934ecf.jpg

2013-07-18113927_zps957e6082.jpg

2013-07-18111729_zpsd21d6010.jpg
 
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Like I said definitely upgrade and load those case fan slots. Cougars aren't bad fans. Other solid performance fans, I'd look at Gelid, Phobya, Noctua. Rubber mounts are nice but not needed. Especially if going with quality fans. Your cpu cooler... do NOT overclock on a stock cooler. That's asking for trouble. Coolermaster Hyper 212 Evo will allow a decnt clock of 4.5 or so. Anything higher, look at Noctua DH15, Thermal Right Silver Arrow or Silver Arrow Extreme
 
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I think you double posted by mistake.

In addition to the questions in my last post, I had a few about overclocking in the BIOS. I cleared all the settings to default, but I noticed some odd things.

The automatic value for "CPU Input Voltage" is 1.792V. Is this even remotely safe for my CPU? I thought 1.25 was spec voltage, and 1.3 required aftermarket cooling. Am I reading this correctly, or is this a different number than the one I'm thinking of?
Also, the automatic value for "DRAM Voltage" is 1.643V. Isn't the spec voltage for DRAM 1.5V?

Finally, if these things are what I think they are, how do I lower them? I tried overriding the CPU Input Voltage with a value of 1.25V and the DRAM Voltage with a value of 1.5V, but my system wouldn't boot with those settings. Is there something else I need to change from the defaults in order to make my system stable?

Your insight would be much appreciated.
 
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I'm running the Asus Z87 with I7-477k and the Corsair H100i. My CPU temperature is at 32C and pretty much stays that way. I noticed that my water cooler has 2-fans. With the standard connections in the H100i manual, I noticed that the fans run pretty slow and pretty quiet. The BIOS is the original that came with the mobo - BIOS 0801. I noticed that when I updated the BIOS to the latest version 1007, that I lost the ability to run the cooler fans at any speed except full blast. It's not that I mind the 3700rpm fans but they make a lot of noise. So, I flashed back to the BIOS 0801 and was once again able to use the Asus AI Suite III to control the CPU fan speed (which are the 2-cooler fans). There is a hitch to installing the H100i onto this motherboard but it's an easy fix. I bought the H100i at the local Tiger Direct for $95.00! When you mount the mobo back plate you will find it has 4 posts that stick through 4 holes in the mobo. The posts stick through the mobo to far and when the front screw posts are in place (this is before the cooler pump is mounted on top of the CPU) the back plate is still loose. To fix, remove the 4 washers on the back plate, add 4 small washers, then put back on the original 4 washers. When mounted in place the 4 back plate posts will be about flush with the mobo but NOT poking through it. That's it. The rest of the installations instructions are correct.
 
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riiiiight.... have you read thru the thread? best cooler in the world won't work if it isn't getting cool air to use

anyway? 32c huh? while surfing? certainly not on stress test or under full load - though i am curious why you mounted the fans to the mobo and used AISuite (a horribly invasive software) to control, rather than the connectors right on the H100 and used the dial right on the pump top with the little 3 white leds to make them spin at full speed....? They are capable of 2500rpm off those controls and connectors

Incidentally, I have seen Noctua DH-14 (which does perform better and quieter than H100, especially on Haswell) at tiger direct for about 100-102. Though Tigerdirect is awfully expensive on a lot of things. I have seen it for 90-94 on other sites. always worth shopping around

That was an exemplary write up of the h100 and tiger though - do you get commission from them or corsair? :pt1cable:
 
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You must not have read my post correctly. I'm indicating that with the liquid cooler, my CPU temperature is stable at 32C. That would be went I'm running windows 8 and playing board games and reading email and just surfing. It would not be under loaded conditions such as video editing. Since the results I posted were gained with the use of the cooler, before the reader runs out to purchase it, I thought it would be informative to tell about my installation issues. Other than that, I don't really care. This mobo has a lot of power and it should have a liquid cooler on it. The cooler radiator and the twin fans are mounted inside on the roof of the case. The Air blows in from the outside. The Cool master 932 HAF tower case has front side and rear fans. The cooler fans on top are my air intake and the remaining 3 case fans are all for exhaust. This configuration serves two purposes. First the push/pull of air prevents any spots inside the case from just re-circulating heated air; and, second the relative small air intake vent on top is not so large as to collect a large amount of dust from the outside air which is a result of the "funneling effect" of the movement of dust or of electronic signals in a many-to-1 relationship - all the noise from each of the many funnels back together when the signal reaches its one destination point. Also, I just was discussing the fan control with an Asus technician. Apparently there is newer bios out that what the Asus automatic update will download. Try the latest 1205 bios of this board for a try:
thttp://support.asus.com/Download.aspx?SLanguage=en&p=1&s=45&m=SABERTOOTH%20Z87&os=30&ft=3&f_name=SABERTOOTH-Z87-ASUS-1205.zip#SABERTOOTH-Z87-ASUS-1205.zip
Please clear the cmos after the bios update.
I hope you understand now.
 
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Well thank you for your experiences with your case, your cooler, and.... everything else. and yes, I read your post just fine - just was trying to figure out the relationship of your post in discussing his case cooling issues (which is far different than your setup), his cooler questions (which i disagree "needs liquid" as the H100 is outperformed by a few air coolers, such as the ones suggested to OP), and his bios questions. Just seemed like a random offering that I wasn't quite sure about... and kinda still aren't. But now we know your setup :) yay!
 
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I suppose you overlooked the possibility of the fan speed of the CPU fan our friend is using. Possibly his bios is configured to use fan speed control and since fan speed control is linked to the BIOS version he may make some use of this information. So I also offered an updated bios resource. I can understand my relationships and so can you.
 
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I am assuming you are LOL-trolling :pt1cable: He is using a STOCK cooler. it doesn't matter what speed you set your BIOS to (and at the temps listed, any setting you try to set would be overridden by the BIOS as a built in safety measure) the fan can spin like a jet engine and the cooler will not handle the heat load! Stock cooler - rated 85w heat. Overclock processor - rated 135w heat. There is the problem and hence the recommendations made and 4Ryan6's comment. Fan speed is moot at this point according to information given by the OP in the thread.
 
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He said the CPU voltage is higher than what he expected. Since this is a function of the BIOS it is advisable to install the latest BIOS upgrade. That was the 1st thing to do and is a much better suggestion than attempting to tweek the bios to lower the cpu voltage.
 
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