Do I need stronger PSU?

Jun 5, 2018
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Hi, I saw some similar threads but none exactly discribing my problem. I have Windows 10 and my PC keeps freezing and restarting randomly. Mostly a few minutes to a game but even when I'm not playing (and I'm not talking about any graphically demanding games either; it really doesn't matter what game it is). Curiously, it doesn't happen when the game is in window mode. I might just be browsing the internet or have some files open, still it freezes. I searched for possible causes and my drivers are up to date, the main disc doesn't show any errors, checked the memory, have sufficient RAM, no overheating or overclocking. The only cause seems to be insufficient power supply unit. Before I buy a new one, though, I'm sure I might have overlooked something, so I'm asking you for help. What else could it be? What if I buy a new PSU and the problem remains? It's not exactly cheap, so I would hate that to happen. Thanks in advance. Here are my system specs and my current PSU is Seasonic S12 II 520 W:
Windows 10 Pro 64-bit
System manufacturer: Gigabyte Technology
Processor: AMD A10-7870K Radeon R7, 12 Compute Cores 4C+8G (4CPUs), 3.9GHz
RAM: 24 Gb
Graphic Card: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1050 Ti, 4 gb
2 screens and a graphic tablet serving as a screen
 
Solution

In that case you will need to take it to a store to be checked. Im 70% sure its the PSU but there is an error margin. You could run with one ram stick just to see if it is RAM causing this (highly unlikely)


Hi, thanks. I disabled the GPU in device manager, restarted, and tried to run a game. However, it's incredibly crappy. I can't even start it. Even the logo animation at the beginning is choppy and so is the sound. And yes, when I run a game in windowed mode, it doesn't freeze. I'm trying it on games, because it always causes it to freeze or restart. Like I said, it freezes even when I'm not playing but that's very unpredictable. I haven't found any common denominator. Sometimes it does, sometimes it doesn't all day. Even though I do basically the same tasks.
 

If it was crappy on the iGPU but didn't crash, it could indicate either a PSU or GPU malfunction. You can assert an RMA for the PSU if you have warranty. Can you test your GPU on another build? Can you run the computer on one RAM stick?

 


I've just removed the GPU from the motherboard and tried a game solely on iGPU. It was horrible but didn't crash. How do I know which one is problematic? If it's the GPU or PSU? I can't be without computer. I need it for my job. If the PSU is bad, I just have to order a new one. And no, I don't have the option of testing it on another build. There are only laptops around. I haven't tried one RAM stick. What does it tell me? What do you think it is?
 

Yeah, I looked it up. I updated my answer, sorry. No, unfortunately, I don't have that option. However, I used to run Windows 7 and played Mafia III and didn't have that problem. It was the same GPU.
 

In that case you will need to take it to a store to be checked. Im 70% sure its the PSU but there is an error margin. You could run with one ram stick just to see if it is RAM causing this (highly unlikely)
 
Solution


In that case it might be cheaper to just buy a new PSU. The guys here charge you just for entering, it seems. So, you think it would be a good idea to buy maybe 600-700W if I'm going to buy a new one? Either way thanks a lot for your help. :)
 

Alright, I just hope it doesn't turn out to be the processor that's insufficient in the end. That would be a nightmare. Thanks again.
 


So, in the end I decided to explore the remaining options before investing any more money into it and ran MemTest. It found a lot of errors on RAM, so I intended to take the sticks out one by one and see if the problems stopped to find the faulty one. Lucky me, after I took out the first stick, no freezing occured even in-game and the loading seemed quite a bit faster as well. Before it displayed that the total memory was 24 Gb. Which I found strange but didn't question it. Upon further inspection I found out that the actual number is 16 and after getting rid of the bad stick, it now displays the correct value of 12 Gb. So, I guess problem solved. It was RAM after all. Tricky to diagnose but luckily the solution didn't require any cash. Just to let you and anyone with similar problems know. :)