Does my PSU output 12v on split molex cable?

[Desk__480]

Having difficulties running an led kit ,

its supposed to run an output at 12v for the kit on this shared molex i have fans connected to.

It powers the led to a low state with 1 color and low emittance which is telling me its not outputting enough.

I have tried removing the connected fans and made sure the connection is good with only the led kit , the result was the same low emittance regardless if fans are connected. on this cable it sais 600V ? is that some kind of safety threshold information?

Should I buy another 6 pin molex cable just for this kit , is what im thinking..

Corsair CX600Modular

 

[Aeacus]

It's clearly seen from your 1st image that the LEDs black molex connector is wired so that the LEDs get the 5V rail from the PSU. Without sufficient power, the LEDs won't shine as bright as they are supposed to.

 

[dudio]

Yellow should be 12 volt.. it appears to me you've done it correctly

http://wiki.robotz.com/images/4/48/Four_Pin_Molex_Connector01.png

 

[Desk__480]

It's clearly seen from your 1st image that the LEDs black molex connector is wired so that the LEDs get the 5V rail from the PSU. Without sufficient power, the LEDs won't shine as bright as they are supposed to.

That cant be 5volt, I connected the leds connector to the drawing i made , its connected to the yellow and black wire which is 12v.

Could you circle to me on the image which part you are talking about ? im confused i think they are conncted properly, do you mean the connecter in between the Led kit and the Psu which is Red/Black ? Because that is what came with it. The part i drew a line on tiny writing 5v ?? - ?

 

[Desk__480]

Yellow should be 12 volt.. it appears to me you've done it correctly

http://wiki.robotz.com/images/4/48/Four_Pin_Molex_Connector01.png

When i plug this into a wall adapter it works fine , perfectly lights up , but some how this is not outputting 12v on a yellow cord? strange.

 

[Aeacus]

That cant be 5volt, I connected the leds connector to the drawing i made , its connected to the yellow and black wire which is 12v.

Could you circle to me on the image which part you are talking about ? im confused i think they are conncted properly, do you mean the connecter in between the Led kit and the Psu which is Red/Black ? Because that is what came with it. The part i drew a line on tiny writing 5v ?? - ?

Right, i again mixed up the colors of 12V and 5V rails (2nd time this month). My bad. I don't know why but when i look molex connectors then 1st thing that comes to my mind is that yellow wire is 5V rail. (I guess the 20+ years in PC hardware is taking it's toll on me.)

My guess is that the fault is in the LED lights themselves. Every PSU has regulator inside it that must keep the power in +12V rail within +/- 5% (11.4V to 12.6V).

If you have 2nd PC, try your LEDs there and see if you get them running brighter. If you don't have 2nd PC then i'd suggest you buy LED kit/strip from different manufacturer and try those out.

I've seen plenty of LED strips that are false marketed and in reality doesn't work as expected. In your case, either the LEDs themselves aren't powerful enough to shine brighter or the LED strip manufacturer has put a too powerful resistors inside the strip that cuts away too much power.

 

[Desk__480]

That cant be 5volt, I connected the leds connector to the drawing i made , its connected to the yellow and black wire which is 12v.

Could you circle to me on the image which part you are talking about ? im confused i think they are conncted properly, do you mean the connecter in between the Led kit and the Psu which is Red/Black ? Because that is what came with it. The part i drew a line on tiny writing 5v ?? - ?

Right, i again mixed up the colors of 12V and 5V rails (2nd time this month). My bad. I don't know why but when i look molex connectors then 1st thing that comes to my mind is that yellow wire is 5V rail. (I guess the 20+ years in PC hardware is taking it's toll on me.)

My guess is that the fault is in the LED lights themselves. Every PSU has regulator inside it that must keep the power in +12V rail within +/- 5% (11.4V to 12.6V).

If you have 2nd PC, try your LEDs there and see if you get them running brighter. If you don't have 2nd PC then i'd suggest you buy LED kit/strip from different manufacturer and try those out.

I've seen plenty of LED strips that are false marketed and in reality doesn't work as expected. In your case, either the LEDs themselves aren't powerful enough to shine brighter or the LED strip manufacturer has put a too powerful resistors inside the strip that cuts away too much power.

I tryed a different pair of leds with a molex built into them , didnt work.

I hooked up these leds to a wall outlet and they work.

something going on with the molex or like you said the resistors are not working with molex somehow work with wall outlet.

 

[dudio]

How do you plug them into a wall outlet? .. I don't see that.
Is it a transformer? What are the output claims on it?

 

[Desk__480]

How do you plug them into a wall outlet? .. I don't see that.
Is it a transformer? What are the output claims on it?

this led kit comes with an adapter so i tryed this 12v output adapter and it works fine. - its the Tiny writing " 5v " that i outlined, other thing is why is that led adapter "5v" red imitating a 5v instead of 12v adapter..

 

[Aeacus]

On your 1st pic, you've marked that you're using the PSU's PCI-E & CPU connector (the one with red box around it). Unplug the power cable from it and move it one slot to the right, so that it connects to the Peripheral & SATA connector.

If that doesn't work then i think that the regulator on your PSU doesn't hold the +12V rail within the ATX PSU standard tolerance range (+/- 5%).
Btw, your Corsair CX series PSU is low quality (Tier four) PSU.

Tier Four
Built down to a low price. Not exactly the most stable units ever created. Very basic safety circuitry or even thin gauge wiring used. Not for gaming rigs or overclocking systems of any kind. Avoid unless your budget dictates your choice.

PSU Tier list: http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/id-2547993/psu-tier-list.html

For better PSU, aim for a Tier two, preferably Tier one PSU if you could afford it.

Anything from Seasonic is great. For you, in 500W range, e.g Seasonic G-550 (Tier two),
pcpp: http://pcpartpicker.com/product/DPCwrH/seasonic-power-supply-ssr550rm

 

[Desk__480]

On your 1st pic, you've marked that you're using the PSU's PCI-E & CPU connector (the one with red box around it). Unplug the power cable from it and move it one slot to the right, so that it connects to the Peripheral & SATA connector.

If that doesn't work then i think that the regulator on your PSU doesn't hold the +12V rail within the ATX PSU standard tolerance range (+/- 5%).
Btw, your Corsair CX series PSU is low quality (Tier four) PSU.

Tier Four
Built down to a low price. Not exactly the most stable units ever created. Very basic safety circuitry or even thin gauge wiring used. Not for gaming rigs or overclocking systems of any kind. Avoid unless your budget dictates your choice.

PSU Tier list: http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/id-2547993/psu-tier-list.html

For better PSU, aim for a Tier two, preferably Tier one PSU if you could afford it.

Anything from Seasonic is great. For you, in 500W range, e.g Seasonic G-550 (Tier two),
pcpp: http://pcpartpicker.com/product/DPCwrH/seasonic-power-supply-ssr550rm

Yeah, I have tryed in other slots and no bingo. Im starting to think it is the Psu sadly, although i calculated my power draw with all components and its roughly 301 watts on load out of 600.

 

[Aeacus]

In PSU world, the wattage doesn't matter the most. What matters is the build quality of the PSU.

Just to give you an idea why build quality matters, here's a great review to read about Hercules 500W PSU (Tier five),
link: http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=324

And for comparison, a review about Seasonic PRIME 650 (Tier one) as well,
link: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/seasonic-prime-titanium-650w-psu,4690.html
(I have PRIME 650 in my Skylake build, full specs in my sig.)