[SOLVED] EKWB Hard line - Good setup?

Fate05

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May 2, 2019
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Heya folks,

I am building a new gaming rig and am going with hard line. I used EKWB configurator and it gave me this:
EKWB Configurator

SPECS -
MOBO - Asus ROG Maximus XI Formula
RAM - x2 16GB (2x8GB) @3200mhz Corsair vengeance RGB Pro
CPU - Intel Core i7-9700k
GPU - Aorus 2080 Super WB (Pre-Installed waterblock)
STORAGE - 1TB Samsung 970 Evo
PSU - Corsair RMX 850w
CASE - Phanteks Evolv X
CASE FANS - Corsair LL120 or LL140's
COOLING - Watercooled CPU and GPU

I am going to use a different CPU block: 9700k CPU Block and I was thinking about having more radiators but not sure what size or what ones. Also what does G 1/4' mean? Are there certain tubes I need or can I just get the right fitting and any tubing?

Thanks in advance,
Fate05 =)
 
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Solution
Probably more radiator space then you need. I would leave off the 140mm, a pretty big expense for little gain. A lot more tube bending.

You don't have to use 90 degree fittings if you don't want to, but tube bending does have its limits. There are certainly situations where they might save you some trouble. And on places where the tubes aren't visible from the outside, why not. There are certainly times angled fittings will produce a cleaner look then trying for short radius bends. My recommendation here is to get your radiators and major components, then map out where your tube runs will go, then purchase fittings and tubing. If this is your first time, order extra tubing, you will screw up some bends.

G1/4" is what screws into...

Eximo

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G1/4" is the industry standard pipe thread used for the fittings.
You need to buy more fittings by the way, that kit is only suitable for CPU, RAD, Pump/Reservoir. Each component needs an additional two fittings.

Typical rule of thumb is 120mm minimum radiator per device. So if you want it cooler than stock cooling, you'll want more.

As for tubes and fittings, they have to match. Inside diameter and outside diameter are very important to the seals. And you have your choice, those hard tubing ones are compression fittings, there are also barb type for soft tubing, or you can use soft tubing with compression fittings.
 
Last edited:

Fate05

Prominent
May 2, 2019
292
15
715
G1/4" is the industry standard pipe thread used for the fittings.
You need to buy more fittings by the way, that kit is only suitable for CPU, RAD, Pump/Reservoir. Each component needs an additional two fittings.

Typical rule of thumb is 120mm minimum radiator per device. So if you want it cooler than stock cooling, you'll want more.

As for tubes and fittings, they have to match. Inside diameter and outside diameter are very important to the seals. And you have your choice, those hard tubing ones are compression fittings, there are also barb type for soft tubing, or you can use soft tubing with compression fittings.

I am pretty new to watercooling but I know some things. I am going with a total of 420mm rad (280mm up top, 140mm at the back + 120mm x3 at the front). I don't want any 90 degree fittings because I am just going to bend all the tubing. I prefer EKWB for tubing and fittings. Also do you mind helping me find some fittings and tubing. The whole G1/4" thing and OD and ID is confusing me at the moment. Would be greatly appreciated if you could =)
 

Eximo

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Probably more radiator space then you need. I would leave off the 140mm, a pretty big expense for little gain. A lot more tube bending.

You don't have to use 90 degree fittings if you don't want to, but tube bending does have its limits. There are certainly situations where they might save you some trouble. And on places where the tubes aren't visible from the outside, why not. There are certainly times angled fittings will produce a cleaner look then trying for short radius bends. My recommendation here is to get your radiators and major components, then map out where your tube runs will go, then purchase fittings and tubing. If this is your first time, order extra tubing, you will screw up some bends.

G1/4" is what screws into radiators, GPU blocks, CPU blocks, pumps, and reservoirs. Distribution plates and flow meters and other add-ons. Nothing to really worry about. Very few parts on the market that don't use this thread.

As for fitting size/tubing size, they will all have their specifications. If you are sticking with EK, just use what they recommend. That kit selection will work fine together, so just buy more of that tube as needed and some more of those fittings. If you want to try something different, they will provide dimensions for inside and outside diameter, and brands tend to sell matching tubing.

You do have to be a little careful around metric / standard tubing sizes. Common tubing sizes are 10mm / 13mm, 1/4" / 3/8".

No real difference, though the larger tubes will marginally increase flow rate, and certainly volume. The flow rate will mostly be determined by the flow restrictions caused by your blocks and radiators and your pump's head pressure.

For myself I am using Primochill soft tubing and XSPC compression fittings. I like the look of the larger tubes and the curves. I do have a hard tubing kit laying around, but I've not really much a reason to assemble my old system. Was planning to have only a GPU cooling loop for two cards and leave the CPU air cooled to save on radiator space needs. The case really only has room for one radiator. (though I used to have a 280mm + thick 120mm in the back when there was a CPU in the loop, but it looked crowded)
 
Solution

Fate05

Prominent
May 2, 2019
292
15
715
Probably more radiator space then you need. I would leave off the 140mm, a pretty big expense for little gain. A lot more tube bending.

You don't have to use 90 degree fittings if you don't want to, but tube bending does have its limits. There are certainly situations where they might save you some trouble. And on places where the tubes aren't visible from the outside, why not. There are certainly times angled fittings will produce a cleaner look then trying for short radius bends. My recommendation here is to get your radiators and major components, then map out where your tube runs will go, then purchase fittings and tubing. If this is your first time, order extra tubing, you will screw up some bends.

G1/4" is what screws into radiators, GPU blocks, CPU blocks, pumps, and reservoirs. Distribution plates and flow meters and other add-ons. Nothing to really worry about. Very few parts on the market that don't use this thread.

As for fitting size/tubing size, they will all have their specifications. If you are sticking with EK, just use what they recommend. That kit selection will work fine together, so just buy more of that tube as needed and some more of those fittings. If you want to try something different, they will provide dimensions for inside and outside diameter, and brands tend to sell matching tubing.

You do have to be a little careful around metric / standard tubing sizes. Common tubing sizes are 10mm / 13mm, 1/4" / 3/8".

No real difference, though the larger tubes will marginally increase flow rate, and certainly volume. The flow rate will mostly be determined by the flow restrictions caused by your blocks and radiators and your pump's head pressure.

For myself I am using Primochill soft tubing and XSPC compression fittings. I like the look of the larger tubes and the curves. I do have a hard tubing kit laying around, but I've not really much a reason to assemble my old system. Was planning to have only a GPU cooling loop for two cards and leave the CPU air cooled to save on radiator space needs. The case really only has room for one radiator. (though I used to have a 280mm + thick 120mm in the back when there was a CPU in the loop, but it looked crowded)

Ok. I am gonna draw it up first and plan it out then see if I want any 90's and if I want the 280 and 140 or if I just want the 280mm rad. Also what thickness would you recommend for Corsair LL140's? I need help on deciding with what pump/res combo to get as well. Everyone says the EKWB 140 Revo D5 one is a really good one so I might got with that one
 

Eximo

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D5 pumps are typical with cylindrical reservoirs, available from quite a few suppliers. Alternative would be DDC based designs. About the only two you will regularly find that are worth having. A lot of your integrated pump/res and pump/res/rad or bay reservoirs use DDC pumps.

As for thickness, pretty much whatever will fit. Unless you go for some of the more extreme options, beyond 60mm, your typical static pressure fan can push through most radiators. Typically as the radiators get thicker the fin density goes down as well to improve airflow. So double the thickness isn't double the capacity, more like 50% better.

I think I may have misunderstood your plan. I thought you were talking about a 360mm radiator in the front as well (which is certainly an option, as well as a 420mm radiator up front) Or a 360mm in the front and top.

Trade off between 120mm and 140mm setups is noise. 140mm are usually quieter, but not quite as effective at cooling for the area they occupy. In most chassis, you can often fit more square area in 120mm then 140mm. Though the Evolv actually has a slight edge if you go for a 420mm and a 280mm.
 

Fate05

Prominent
May 2, 2019
292
15
715
D5 pumps are typical with cylindrical reservoirs, available from quite a few suppliers. Alternative would be DDC based designs. About the only two you will regularly find that are worth having. A lot of your integrated pump/res and pump/res/rad or bay reservoirs use DDC pumps.

As for thickness, pretty much whatever will fit. Unless you go for some of the more extreme options, beyond 60mm, your typical static pressure fan can push through most radiators. Typically as the radiators get thicker the fin density goes down as well to improve airflow. So double the thickness isn't double the capacity, more like 50% better.

I think I may have misunderstood your plan. I thought you were talking about a 360mm radiator in the front as well (which is certainly an option, as well as a 420mm radiator up front) Or a 360mm in the front and top.

Trade off between 120mm and 140mm setups is noise. 140mm are usually quieter, but not quite as effective at cooling for the area they occupy. In most chassis, you can often fit more square area in 120mm then 140mm. Though the Evolv actually has a slight edge if you go for a 420mm and a 280mm.

I was thinking about putting a 360mm up top and 360 in the front. This would have better cooling capacity than the 280 and 120/140mm at the back. I found a build on YT that used extremely similar parts. Same CPU, basically same motherboard (He had 1 version older). I am going to refer to his build for my build. Thank you so much for the help though! I will let you know if I need anything else
 

Eximo

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No problem. We always like to see pictures:

 
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Fate05

Prominent
May 2, 2019
292
15
715
D5 pumps are typical with cylindrical reservoirs, available from quite a few suppliers. Alternative would be DDC based designs. About the only two you will regularly find that are worth having. A lot of your integrated pump/res and pump/res/rad or bay reservoirs use DDC pumps.

As for thickness, pretty much whatever will fit. Unless you go for some of the more extreme options, beyond 60mm, your typical static pressure fan can push through most radiators. Typically as the radiators get thicker the fin density goes down as well to improve airflow. So double the thickness isn't double the capacity, more like 50% better.

I think I may have misunderstood your plan. I thought you were talking about a 360mm radiator in the front as well (which is certainly an option, as well as a 420mm radiator up front) Or a 360mm in the front and top.

Trade off between 120mm and 140mm setups is noise. 140mm are usually quieter, but not quite as effective at cooling for the area they occupy. In most chassis, you can often fit more square area in 120mm then 140mm. Though the Evolv actually has a slight edge if you go for a 420mm and a 280mm.

Quick question about radiators. Should I get the EK Coolstream SE 360 or the EK Coolstream PE 360? Only difference I saw was the SE was slimmer by 10mm and had 3 more fins per inch at 22 vs the PE which was 10mm thicker and had 19 fins per inch (split fin).
 

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