Question Excessive Ryzen 5 2600 ovearheating due to huge airflow problems

Jun 23, 2019
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Gear
  • CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600 (Stock "Wraith Stealth" Cooler)
  • GPU: Sapphire Pulse Radeon RX Vega56 (Stock settings)
  • MB: Gigabyte B450 Aorus Pro (BIOS Version F32)
  • RAM: Corsair Vengeance 16GB DDR4 3000MHz Dual-Channel (XMP-Enabled)
  • Case: Segotep Halo 7 (Comes with 4x120mm 1200RPM fans, Front 3xIntake and Rear 1xExhaust, but has room for 8x120mm fans)
Use Case
Playing "Path of Exile" on maximum settings (i.e. I want to emphasize that the following measurements are not even done on a CPU benchmark / stress test).​

Monitoring Program
HWiNFO64 v6.08-3830 (which also matches 100% the readings from AMD Ryzen Master v1.5.3.0902)​

Measurements
Max CPU/Thread Usage: Maximum = 64.9%, Average 33.6%​
Total CPU Usage: Maximum = 41.1%, Average = 17.2%​
Case: Side Panel Closed​
Power Plan: Balanced​
CPU Freq: 3.2GHz​
Voltage Offset: -0.102V (~1.05V)​
Boost: Disabled​
Min = 64C, Maximum = 79.8C (temperature stays around this value)​
Ambient Temperature: ~28C​
Case: Side Panel Open​
Power Plan: Balanced​
CPU Freq: 3.2GHz​
Voltage Offset: -0.102V (~1.05V)​
Boost: Disabled​
Min = 63.3C, Maximum = 66.4C (temperature stays around this value)​
Ambient Temperature: ~28C​

Observations
  • Had to lower the CPU frequency and voltages and also disable boost. Otherwise, I was getting 92C+ spikes and maximum temperatures of 85C-88C in the first case, and around 70C-75C in the second case.
  • All the fans are set to be regulated according to the CPU temperature (which basically means all of them are running at full RPM, taking in consideration the above temperatures).
  • XMP profile is enabled, which increases the CPU temperature by about 5C, but I guess that's normal from what I've read.
Reference Pictures
Questions/Possible Options
  1. Given the above, does anything seem to point to a CPU problem or an incorrect cooler seating?
  2. Should I run the rig without the plexiglass side panel instead of spending another 60-80$ on case fans?
  3. Should I change the rear intake fan with a better one?
  4. Should I buy something like Arctic Freezer 34 eSports DUO (45$) so that the CPU cooler will blow side-ways instead of straight into the plexiglass panel? (one CPU fan will pull the cool air from the front intakes, while the other one will push the hot air directly into the rear exhaust fan)
  5. Should I buy another 2 case fans and mount them on top of the case in an 1xExhaust (directly over the CPU cooler) and 1xIntake (to the side of the CPU cooler) configuration?
  6. Running out of ideas, so please do suggest other alternatives.
Looking forward to read your insights on the matter.
Thanks!
 
Last edited:
Just for testing purposes to see if airflow really is the issue, enable boost and take the side panel off.
If temps decrease significantly, then airflow is the issue.

I would also make sure the cooler is securely mounted and thermal pase is applied well.

More fans or an aftermarket cooler can help
 
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Jun 23, 2019
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Just for testing purposes to aee if airflow really is the issue, enable boost and take the side panel off.
If temps decrease significantly, then airflow is the issue.

I would also make sure the cooler is securely mounted and thermal pase is applied well.

The 1st temperature measurement is done with the side panel on and the 2nd is done with the side panel off, that's where the 12-13C difference comes from (and I quite expect this difference to remain constant even with boost enabled).
The cooler is securely mounted, can't tighten the screws any further (maybe the center of mass is a bit off-center due to unbalanced mechanical pressure).
The stock thermal paste was spread pretty evenly (and it wasn't that thin of a layer).
 

DMAN999

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I would definitely add at least one top exhaust fan to suck the heat from the CPU out of the case.
Also as stated above a dual fan cooler pulling air in from the front and pushing it to the rear exhaust fan wil lhelp a lot too.
I have an Arctic 33 eSports Edition (dual fan) cooler with 5 case fans (3 intake/2 exhaust) and my OC'd 2600 never gets above 55--56C even after gaming for 3-4 hours while simultaneously streaming to two 1080p TV's.
 
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Jun 23, 2019
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I would definitely add at least one top cooler to suck the heat from the CPU out of the case.
Also as stated above a dual; fan cooler pulling air in from the front and pushing it to the rear exhaust fan wil lhelp a lot too.
I have an Arctic 33 eSports Edition (dual fan) cooler with 5 case fans (3 intake/2 exhaust) and my OC'd 2600 never gets above 55--56C even after gaming for 3-4 hours while simultaneously streaming to two 1080p TV's.
Then this pretty much seals the deal for a dual-fan cooler. I'll just have to check if there's enough space at the top of the case for an additional exhaust fan after I mount the dual-fan cooler.

L.E: Just to have a reference, what model are your exhaust fans?
 

DMAN999

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Last edited:
Jun 23, 2019
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An update on the matter, just in case someone else will come across such problems with similar towers/cases.

I took out the front cover housing the 3 intake fans while keeping the side panel closed and the situation dramatically improved. Here are the new measurements (use case and settings are stated in the original post):

Max CPU/Thread Usage: Maximum = 78.3%, Average 45.8%
Total CPU Usage: Maximum = 55.0%, Average = 25.7%

Case: Side Panel Closed, Front Panel Open
Power Plan: Balanced
CPU Freq: 3.2GHz
Voltage Offset: -0.102V (~1.05V)
Boost: Disabled
Min = 57.8C, Maximum = 63.5C (however, temperature hovered around 61.5-62.0C this time)
Ambient Temperature: ~26C

Compared to the last best case, there's a difference of 66.4 - 62.0 = ~4.4C. Although the lower ambient temperature is definitely contributing here, the important thing is that the tunnel-like airflow is finally kicking in.

I'd say the front cover is poorly designed, favoring aesthetics over functionality:
The only open areas are on the sides, which are further chocked by that grill containing a round hole "filter" underneath (could at least have been a hexagonal hole filter).
With that much airflow resistance, it's pretty clear that the stock intake fans are in there just for the show given their insufficient static pressure (from unofficial sources, they're rated at 36CFM and 1.1 mmH2O).

@DMAN999: Those fans are really nice for their price, but there's no retailer selling them where I'm from.
@remixislandmusic: Hmm, sounds like your case has a much better airflow environment for the intake fans.

How about the following models:
  • Arctic P12 PWM (56.3 CFM, 2.2 mm H2O) - Sort of a budget option at 7$ per fan.
  • Corsair ML120 PRO (75CFM, 4.2 mm H2O) - Sort of a premium option at 23$ per fan.
 
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