Experimental radiator \build log!!!

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toolmaker_03

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Mar 26, 2012
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well here are the radiators, my problem is the configuration of them, simply too many possibilities, so if you could find the time to give your opinions, I would really appreciate it.
I also need advice on a type of shroud for the radiators, the purpose is to inshore good air flow through the radiator.
and lastly how to attach the fans to the radiators?



all advice is welcome and thank you

 
Solution
I don't use a flow meter, never have, never will.

Having a picture of a flow meter does nothing to support a finding, especially when you cannot be 100% conclusive that it is reading correctly or you are accurately converting what is being reported. Does the flow meter registering on the pump without restriction show a flow rate that is close to the rated flow of the pump with your conversion?

If so, great, but if so, you're still running lower than 1.0 gpm on your loop, meaning your delta-T MUST be offset to calculate your cooling potential. Meaning - you have to over-rad to accomplish the same cooling ability that you could achieve with a higher flow. Adding cost of 3x 360 radiators ($60, example) starts to get expensive...


So if it doesn't bother you, why waste the time writing about it?

 
well it did kind of look cool :lol: and yes I did kind of like how it lit up the inside of the case.
but it really did nothing for how well the block preformed.

I did take the CPU block apart and took pics I will post later somehow.

http://imgur.com/EETTSdg,8K23aI3#0

looks like imgur works so I will be doing this from now on.

I looks nice there is a little debris in side but not enough to prevent good flow through the block. I will clean it out and put the block back together the water blocks today do a real good job of filtering your system for you of course this is not the way you would like to filter a system. koolance makes a filter system for water cooling and I have found it easy to use, but I have not put one on my system yet, and no I do not have a good reason for that.
http://koolance.com/ins-fltr03-inline-coolant-filter
it is on my dads system and the blocks on that one are clean. I do clean the filter about every 6 months.

(**edit I found my other filter, and I will put it one the loop when I reassemble it. I could not find it, so I thought maybe I never bought it**)


I will take the GPU blocks apart next to see how nice they look inside.
 
At least you are consistent TM_03, when you are remembered for water cooling, it will be that you sir, are the King of Flow Restriction!

You add so many things to your loops that are totally unnecessary, unless of course you're getting your coolant from the pond down the street, so why do you think you need screen filters?
 
well you looked at the pic the same little bit of slime is in the GPU blocks if I had the filter in I would not need to clean the blocks at all I would need to clean is the screen in the filter

http://imgur.com/EETTSdg,8K23aI3#0
look again

I pull and clean the filter on my dads loop every 6 months and there is a thin film on it.
later when I pull his apart I will show how clean his blocks are in comparison.
 
ok so the GPU also has a little build up in it, so I will clean it out and put it back together.

http://imgur.com/PrpX8TX,MBqmyAp,y0ykpzE,jJQKqe1

this filter will eliminate the need for me to ever have to take the blocks apart again as any build up will get caught up in the filter before the blocks.

http://i.imgur.com/MBqmyAp.jpg

this is a pic of the upgrade I do to my reservoirs to get a better flow through them.

http://i.imgur.com/y0ykpzE.jpg

the stock bottom of the reservoir

http://i.imgur.com/jJQKqe1.jpg

as you can see the upgrade has a lot more holes making it easier for water to go through it.
 
so what is that green goo in my system?

well if you looked at it under a electron microscope, you would see little platelets of varying size and color.
if you ran it through a spectrometer, you would find that it is made up of all the different metals, plastics, and even some of the tubing itself.

this stull flaks off of everything the system is made of, into the water of the loop, as microscopic partials, and if not filtered out, will build up in the blocks.

 
Green Goo is usually algae growth and copper sulfate or IE. PT-Nuke (Copper Sulfate) 1 drop per 1 liter can take care of that for you, if your loop is all copper that is, or at least not containing any aluminum or nickel plating.

I saw a movie when I was younger named, "The Green Slime", lets just hope you're not growing any of that! :)
 
I recall seeing Corsair Dominator Waterblocks - those are all aluminium construction. I apologize for speaking vaguely since the links are strewn across this thread - perhaps if you could add tags to the image links to help alot of people on mobile view your progress without having to click on so many things 😉 ?

FYI, all that flow mumbo jumbo has been addressed prior a couple of pages spanning back a year or more, streamline your loop i.e its plumbing/routes and you will see a significant improvement in your systems performance and maintenance runs. As of now, you have a watercooling gallery worth(in my audit) two/three showcase systems built for posting on MDPC.

Not to rub salt into your wounds though TM_03 :)
 
TM_03,
You've gotten it all wrong. I wasn't stating that you move to a serial from your existing parallel loop but rather that you refine the bends in your watercooling loop including the removal of the restrictive blocks in your system such as SSD/HDD cooling blocks.

TBH I've lost track of this thread's direction since I can recall about 2 or more systems that were detailed for progression on this single thread. I thought we were all on the same boat about seeing one system make headway with a watercooling setup but I'm confused.

Can you , perhaps, pass off a pic(or more) of your existing setup in all its full glory? Mind you please don't post a pic of your hardware outside your case or even a partial shot of the system. I'd love to know what sort of hardware you're working with as of this writing and is in your loop as we speak. I know you are working on a parallel loop so that can be pushed aside from the details.

A detailed parts list would also do wonders :) Deal?
 
a detailed parts list, that I can do.
3 MCRX20-QP 360mm radiators
http://www.swiftech.com/MCRx20-QP.aspx
2 EVGA GeForce GTX 580 FTW Hydro Copper 2
https://www.evga.com/articles/00592/
1 XSPC raystorm CPU block
http://www.xs-pc.com/waterblocks-cpu/raystorm-cpu-waterblock-intel
2 swiftech MPC655 pumps
http://www.swiftech.com/mcp655.aspx
9 corsair SP fans
http://www.corsair.com/en-us/air-series-sp120-high-performance-edition-high-static-pressure-120mm-fan
20 bits power 3 way 90's
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12084/ex-tub-744/Bitspower_Dual_G14_Matte_Black_Triple_Rotary_Snake-Style_Adapter_-_Male_to_Female_BP-MB90R3D.html?tl=g30c497s1361
4 Y blocks
http://bitspowerwork.com/html/product/pro_show.php?products_id=257
1 400mm reservoir
http://bitspowerwork.com/html/product/pro_show.php?products_id=39
12 3/8ID 5/8OD compression fittings
http://bitspowerwork.com/html/product/pro_show.php?products_id=269
19 3/8ID 1/2OD compression fittings
http://bitspowerwork.com/html/product/pro_show.php?products_id=268
3 1/4 turn valves
http://bitspowerwork.com/html/product/pro_show.php?products_id=2446
4 T's
http://www.xs-pc.com/hose-fittings/g14-t-fitting-black-chrome
10 male to male fittings of varying sizes
http://www.xs-pc.com/hose-fittings/g14-5mm-male-to-male-fitting-chrome
10 female to female fittings of varying sizes
http://www.xs-pc.com/hose-fittings/g14-18mm-female-to-female-fitting-chrome
2 koolance flow meters with display
http://koolance.com/ins-fm19-coolant-flow-meter
http://koolance.com/dcb-fm01-flow-meter-adapter-with-display
1 loop filter
http://koolance.com/ins-fltr03-inline-coolant-filter
2 sets of QDC's
http://bitspowerwork.com/html/product/pro_show.php?products_id=3062
http://bitspowerwork.com/html/product/pro_show.php?products_id=3063
2 temp sensors
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10373/ex-tub-620/Bitspower_G_14_Temperature_Sensor_Stop_Fitting_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-CT.html?tl=g30c101s457

I think that covers the parts list.

as far as pics go I have some from before I took it all apart.

https://imageshack.com/i/7g3s9lj
https://imageshack.com/i/0fleehj
https://imageshack.com/i/1fdbxoj
https://imageshack.com/i/mvb6v2j
https://imageshack.com/i/mhznt3j




 
test on image site????

y0ykpzE.jpg
 
well I tried this thermal compound called arctic MX-2, and this stuff is not easy to use, I applied it to my blocks like I would any other, a thin cover over the surface area of chip to be cooled, attached the blocks, and my temps where out of sight, so I took the blocks back off, cleaned this stuff of my components, and ordered some arctic silver 5, I have used arctic silver 5 before, and it works every time, easy to apply, and I have no heat issues.
 
I'm a user of the MX-2 and the TIM has a burn in time so once an application is made you will need to hold out a while before any temp drops can be seen. Ofc I should note, the temp drops have been as good as about 5~8 C when replacing stock time on a stock cooler. Maybe an improper contact? Its possible though if you're comfortable with using AS5 then hey don't move away from it! 😉
 
yes, I also think that improper application is to blame for the temp issues.

the issue I have with a lot of the different types of thermal compounds, is the difficulty in applying the stuff, too thin it does not work too thick it does not work it can be frustrating, when considering that the material is like grease and sticks to everything.
the reason I like artic silver5 is that I do apply it a little thick and it always works the first time.
as with the others I may have to do it two or three times before I get that prefect thickness.
so IMO the cost difference between the two is the same, yes you do get twice the amount of MX-2 for the same cost as arctic silver5, but I have found that I will use twice as much of the other before I get it right.
 
now that all of the testing is done, I can get all my hardware onto the main case. I will not need the rad box any more for this build, because I will only have two radiators. they will be mounted on top of the case, and off the back off the case.
 
ok, I think I have figured out what I have been trying to do with my loop this whole time.

I used to race cars, so I would buy a stock car and sup it up, and make it a little quicker, and I would keep changing things here and there, until it got even faster and quicker.

looking back, I have been doing the same thing to my water cooling loop, I keep changing things here and there until it gets going faster and faster, I guess what I have really been doing, is trying to find out just how fast this loop really can go.

when I started my loop speed was at
1.8LPM then I paralleled it
3.4LPM I changed a few things
4.4LPM I changed some other stuff around
5.7LPM I made some upgrades to the reservoir
6.6LPM made some more changes
6.8LPM added a second pump
7.2LPM upgraded the reservoir again
10.5LPM my top speed so far.

well I hope that clears every thing up. :lol: