Question Fan selection advice - What did I forget?

[ReveurGAM]

Please take a look at the following and let me know of any mistakes or omissions so that I can improve it, please! Thanks!

1. **RPM, Airflow and Static Pressure**: These are 3 critical factors. Think of airflow (AF) as movement, airflow determines how much air the fan can move, while static pressure(SP) is important if you have obstructions like heatsinks or radiators in your case, so you can think of SP as power or force. Fans that don't list static pressure usually have poor SP. AF fans are most useful for exhaust, while SP fans are also important at intake positions where there is a dust filter, mesh or other barrier. Fans for which neither AF nor SP are listed should generally be avoided. Revolutions Per Minute (RPM) is one of the top factors determining performance and noise production, so a fan with a higher max RPM will usually do better than a lesser fan.
2. **Noise Levels**: Lower decibel (dBA) levels indicate quieter operation. dBA is a modified measurement to show how your ears perceive the noise. Quieter fans can improve the overall acoustic profile of your system. If noise doesn't bother you then the only time that this should matter is when the dBA exceeds ~80 dBA constantly or repeatedly over a long period of time. https://www.nidcd.nih.gov/health/noise-induced-hearing-loss. Fans that are most likely to do this are server fans, but there are consumer fans that get that loud, too. You can compensate by placing the computer in its own space where the noise will be muffled, or by adjusting the "fan curve" to assure that it only rarely gets that loud. Also, the noise a fan makes outside of the case will be muffled by the case. Remember: just like long-term (a few hours) exposure to loud music can cause permanent hearing loss, sitting next to a VERY loud computer can, too. That's why servers have their own room.
3. **LED Lighting (if applicable)**:If aesthetics are important to you, consider the lighting options. Some fans come with customizable RGB lighting that can sync with your other components. Lighting on any computer part has no positive performance effects (aside from acting as an indicator) but can negatively impact performance if the fan's design hasn't been altered to increase available power so that the fan itself isn't negatively impacted in terms of performance. There are, in essence, 3 options: monochrome LEDs, variable color (RGB/chromatic) LEDs, and addressable RGB (ARGB) LEDs.
   1. Monochrome LEDs: The first only offers a single color although there can be many LEDs - each with its own color - and generally can only be on or off and are usually powered by the same cable as the fan's cable. Some fans include a toggle or selector to change the pattern, etc. These are often the least expensive fans and are most often used on DC fans, although some manufacturers pair the monochrome LEDs with PWM fans, too. Unless the design is altered, these will decrease the fan's performance.
   2. Variable color (RGB/chromatic) LEDs: The second type can change colors, patterns and frequency based on signals from software (e.g. OpenRGB, SignalRGB) or firmware (e.g. a fan/lighting hub), and have a dedicated fan cable for RGB control, and are supported by most motherboards and hubs/controllers, but are somewhat limited as to what can be achieved visually. Despite the limitations, RGB fans offer a wide degree of lighting options through hardware and software and, if the design is superior, can rival low-end ARGB fans. RGB LEDs are used on both DC and PWM fans. Some devices also provide tertiary support via a header or hub port for RGB LED strips.
   3. Addressable RGB (ARGB) LEDs: ARGB offers full control over the lighting, with the ability to individually control every fan, but not many mobos, hubs and controllers offer the necessary support in the form of headers, ports, etc. These fans are often amongst the most expensive, and ARGB LEDs are most often found on PWM fans. A small number of devices offer tertiary support of ARGB strip lighting.
4. **Build Quality**:Build quality includes: bearing type, frame and propeller materials, airflow control, design, connector type (2-pin, 3-pin, 4-pin, Molex D, proprietary) and cabling.
   1. Design:Two fans with otherwise equivalent statistics will perform differently if their designs (including materials) are different. This is probably the first or second largest contributor to performance.
      1. Airflow control: These design modifications attempt to direct the air, and can look like protrusions, indentations, slots or even teeth on the fan's blades and/or frame.
      2. Bearing type: Fans with quality bearings tend to last longer and operate more quietly. Bearing type affects price, speed, lifespan, positioning, and noise. There are many types of bearings, with rifle and sleeve bearings being of lower quality but less expensive, and ball-bearing, mag-lev and liquid (all of which have several types with varying degrees of quality: https://silentpcreview.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=12438) being better but more expensive. Some bearing types are more susceptible to damage by dust and/or positioning. As a fan's bearings wear out, it tends to slow down and become noisy, and this can be impacted by design and materials quality. Spherical roller thrust bearings are designed for heavy axial loads, are expensive and are found in commercial fans. Some bearing types only work well in the vertical position, while others work best in the horizontal position, and a few work well in both; ball-bearing, fluid dynamic bearing and mag-lev are the most versatile. As a note, there are 3 common types of PC fans: standard fans that pull air through the blades, fans that pull air like a watermill in a circular chamber, often referred to as blowers, and AirJet (created by Frore Systems), which are solid-state. I know that sounds like an oxymoron but you'll believe it when you watch the LTT video!
         View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vdD0yMS40a0
         
      3. Materials: Look for fans with durable materials. Liquid Crystal Polymer (LCP), for example, is one of the best materials because it doesn't easily change shape due to speed and temperature. Frame materials include not just the frame itself but any softer dampening materials at connection points to reduce vibration transmission to the PC. Virtually all vans used to be made from only metal but nowadays most fans are plastic, which decreases weight and, thus, can increase lifespan, but makes them more prone to physical damage in transit and in your computer. I've received a few with broken blades, a disconnected hub, or frame damage.
      4. Connector and cabling type: Addressed below.
5. **PWM (4-pin) vs DC (2- or 3-pin)**:
   1. 2-pin DC: If you need only a single-speed fan running constantly at max, and don't care what that speed is, then a 2-pin DC fan is sufficient. These are the cheapest but also the least common nowadays.
      1. Molex D: These are a Molex design that are shaped like a D and have 4 pins/holes in them, usually designed so that you can plug another into the other end of the plug. There are Molex D plug fans that are misleadingly sold as 2-4 pin when they most often use only 2 pins. If you have a Molex D fan, you can connect it directly to your PSU for consistent RPM, or get an adapter to the regular 2-pin type so it can run from the mobo or hub. Some will offer both a Molex D and a 3- or 4-pin plug. The main advantage to Molex D, aside from direct power, is that they can be daisy-chained. Although many PSU makers still provide Molex D power cables, I'm unaware of any modern mobos that do, so make sure there's also a 3- or 4-pin plug on the fan's cable!
   2. 3-pin DC: If knowing and changing the speed of the fan is important, the 3rd pin provides a tachometer signal, which can help mobos with voltage control for speed variance. These are a bit more expensive than 2-pin fans and still fairly common.
   3. 4-pin PWM: Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) fans offer the 4th pin for direct control of the speed by "pulsing" the electricity to maintain a specific speed. How refined that control is, however, depends on the components used in the controller (e.g. mobo, hub or controller). Cheaper quality means a reduced range of control at the low end. These are generally more expensive. They are also DC fans. Some hubs and controllers claim to be PWM but only have 3 pins and, thus aren't really PWM. Some manufacturers will lie and try to convince you their products are PWM but if the 4th wire is missing, they are not. Others will label a Molex D plug as 4-pin, even if it only has 2 holes in use.
   4. Proprietary connectors: Some companies, such as Corsair, Asiahorse and Lian Li, have moved towards using proprietary connectors to force customers to stick with them. Personally, I do not like this and, unless you are willing to replace the plugs and not use their hubs, you should avoid such products despite the advantages some may offer unless you plan to pay the extra cost of only buying their brand, which can sometimes be large. Proprietary connectors may have 5 or more pins/holes and you'll have to have a hub, connector, repeater or node with the same connector to use these fans. Generally, if you buy a single fan with a proprietary connector, it won't come with a hub, but a multi-pack will.
6. **Ease of Installation**:There is generally very little difference from one fan to another as to how easy it is to install, although a small number possess additional pieces that make it harder to install, and some offer multiple extra pieces so that you can more easily install them in a case, on a CPU cooler or on a radiator. For convenience, you can pay extra to get one with additional parts, some of which you may never use. Most fans simply offer short bolts or self-tapping bolts, although some will have rubber or silicone "pins" that can hold the fan in place and some will reduce vibrations traveling from the fan to the case/heatsink/radiator. However, those made of regular rubber tend to not stand up well to repeated installations because they either stretch and snap or become harder as they age. The single largest contributor to ease of installation is the size of the fan, especially thickness, so be careful to make sure that the fans won't clash with nearby parts. A small number of fans offer special installation features, such as daisy-chaining through cables or through plug-and-socket direct connects, such as Lian Li, Phanteks, SAMA and Asiahorse
   1. Mounting Orientation: Do not confuse this with the direction of airflow. Vertical means it is "standing" and horizontal that it is "lying down".
   2. Adjustible-Direction Mounting: This is an extremely rare feature in which the frame is designed so that you can adjust the direction of airflow on 2or 3 axes. The only fan I'm aware of that offers this is the Inwin Mars 120mm Fan; it's over $60 and I cannot find it in the USA. You'll be better off 3D-printing or or buying something if you need to customize the direction of flow.
   3. Daisy-chaining: This feature reduces the tangle of cables in your case by providing one of several ways to connect in series fans that are close enough to each other by providing both a plug and a port. The first fan in the series is controlled by the header, and all fans connected to it will run at the same percentage so it's best to connect fans that are the same for consistent results. Other fans offer direct connections, effectively making them one unit when connected.
7. **Compatibility**: Ensure that the fan size, including thickness, fits your case and that the connectors are compatible with your motherboard. Note that although some 2-pin fan plugs cannot be attached to 3- and 4-pin headers because of a difference in pin size, you can always attach 3- and 4-pin plugs to 3- and 4-pin headers. Just keep in mind that a difference between plug and header means that the PWM feature is unavailable. Proprietary designs ensure a lack of compatibility with competing brands and, thus, should be avoided.
8. **Price**: The vast majority of fans cost less than $30, and there are many that cost less than $10, but a small number of fans cost over $100 each and are generally not worth the cost, except for special function fans that can even go into the thousands of dollars. Most fans are produced in China and Chinese companies are undermining foreign companies by offering quality fans at lower prices with good warranties, even going so far as to steal the designs from other companies that manufacture in China.
9. **Warranties & Service Guarantees**: Not every company offers a warranty or service guarantee. Some companies will still help you replace a defective or broken fan, while others will give you a limited timeframe, and some won't even respond (sometimes even famous brands don't respond). Some companies don't bother to check if you're the original purchaser but others, especially more expensive brands like Noctua, may require proof-of-purchase to avoid replacing a fan that was bought used. On the other hand, Noctua also offers warranties that are longer than most other manufacturers. Additionally, the quality of support and service, both by the agents and the technicians, varies. I ordered a new Alseye fan but it came in a ripped box, so I asked for a replacement but the vendor sent another one in a different ripped box. Other companies have been much better.
10. **Direction of flow**:Most fans will have some kind of indicator on the frame showing which way the fan blows, and which way it turns. This isn't strictly necessary since you can look at the fan blades to determine both of these, but the indicators reduce confusion. You don't want to use fans with opposing directions of rotation in a push-pull configuration as they'll cancel each other out.
    1. Reversed Fan: Although this is mostly an aesthetic choice, there are so-called "reverse" fans where they blow in the opposite direction of most fans. This is because some people want to mount it in a position where the decorative hub sticker won't be visibile with a "normal" fan. There are fans that can be toggled to run in either direction although I haven't found any yet.
11. **Multiple Fans in a Row**:There are two main possibilities:
    1. Stacked: Two or more fans connected directly to each other. Unless they are exactly the same and perfectly synchronized, it is unlikely that this will result in any benefits. Given how difficult it is to achieve good results, it's not recommended.
    2. Push-Pull: This is most often done on a heatsink or radiator, where you have one or more fans on each side. For example, a 240mm radiator would have 2 fans next to each other on one side pulling in air, and another pair on the other side exhausting that air. Depending on the fans and a lot of variables, you will see an improvement over fans only on one side, but it certainly will not be even 50% better.
12. **Software**: There are a lot of different companies offering software to control fans and their lights. I don't recommend Asus Armoury Crate as it tends to take full control over the fans and doesn't like to let go (or be uninstalled). Every program has its own strengths and weaknesses. One free option is Fan Control by RemOo. Programs cannot force the hardware to do what its components won't allow, such as starting a fan below it's natural RPM minimum or the range supported by a fan hub. Software to control the LEDs was mentioned previously.
13. **Other Aesthetics**: Aside from lighting, coloration, frame appearance and unique designs can add appeal to your setup.

 

[Zerk2012]

. I know that sounds like an oxymoron but you'll believe it when you watch the LTT video

I wouldn't belive anything from LTT since he often gets paid to review products by the manufacturer.

 

[ReveurGAM]

I wouldn't belive anything from LTT since he often gets paid to review products by the manufacturer.

That is just a link to a video about the Frore Systems Airjet that explains it quite well. The video on Frore's website doesn't come close.

 

[ex_bubblehead]

Literal wall of text. Spacing, especially between paragraphs. And the whole thing reads more like a military tech manual than anything else. Flesh it out with more plain English explanations and illustrations where necessary. For something like this anything less than a full page per numbered point is too terse.

 

[ReveurGAM]

Literal wall of text. Spacing, especially between paragraphs. And the whole thing reads more like a military tech manual than anything else. Flesh it out with more plain English explanations and illustrations where necessary. For something like this anything less than a full page per numbered point is too terse.

Thank you for the input. I'm trying to make sure it's fairly complete but concise. I'll be worrying about formatting and illustrations later. Right now, I just need to make sure I cover the topic well. I could use some help with bearings since there are SO MANY types and variants, including lifespan, noise, best mounting position (v/h), strengths and weaknesses, and all that stuff.

 

[kanewolf]

One thing you missed is in the LED lighting section-- NONE. An important thing to me.

 

[Zerk2012]

Thank you for the input. I'm trying to make sure it's fairly complete but concise. I'll be worrying about formatting and illustrations later. Right now, I just need to make sure I cover the topic well. I could use some help with bearings since there are SO MANY types and variants, including lifespan, noise, best mounting position (v/h), strengths and weaknesses, and all that stuff.

Your making it way harder than it is. It's just a fan.

I've bought cheap fans that are still running and better fans that have failed in a couple years.

 

[ReveurGAM]

One thing you missed is in the LED lighting section-- NONE. An important thing to me.

Agreed, but..."(if applicable)" covers it.

Your making it way harder than it is. It's just a fan.

I've bought cheap fans that are still running and better fans that have failed in a couple years.

Thanks again. :{

 

[kanewolf]

Agreed, but..."(if applicable)" covers it.


Thanks again. :{

IMO, "if applicable" doesn't cover it. Letting people know that they don't have to live with "disco" lights, that there are great NON-LED alternatives is something that should be explicitly stated since you are trying to be all encompassing.

 

[ReveurGAM]

IMO, "if applicable" doesn't cover it. Letting people know that they don't have to live with "disco" lights, that there are great NON-LED alternatives is something that should be explicitly stated since you are trying to be all encompassing.

Already added, thanks. Will update soon.

 

[ReveurGAM]

Please take a look at the following and let me know of any mistakes or omissions so that I can improve it, please! Thanks!

1. **RPM, Airflow and Static Pressure**: These are 3 critical factors. Think of airflow (AF) as movement, airflow determines how much air the fan can move, while static pressure(SP) is important if you have obstructions like heatsinks or radiators in your case, so you can think of SP as power or force. Fans that don't list static pressure usually have poor SP. AF fans are most useful for exhaust, while SP fans are also important at intake positions where there is a dust filter, mesh or other barrier. Fans for which neither AF nor SP are listed should generally be avoided. Revolutions Per Minute (RPM) is one of the top factors determining performance and noise production, so a fan with a higher max RPM will usually do better than a lesser fan.
   
   
2. **Noise Levels**: Lower decibel (dBA) levels indicate quieter operation. dBA is a modified measurement to show how your ears perceive the noise. Quieter fans can improve the overall acoustic profile of your system. If noise doesn't bother you then the only time that this should matter is when the dBA exceeds ~80 dBA constantly or repeatedly over a long period of time. https://www.nidcd.nih.gov/health/noise-induced-hearing-loss. Fans that are most likely to do this are server fans, but there are consumer fans that get that loud, too. You can compensate by placing the computer in its own space where the noise will be muffled, or by adjusting the "fan curve" to assure that it only rarely gets that loud. Also, the noise a fan makes outside of the case will be muffled by the case. Remember: just like long-term (a few hours) exposure to loud music can cause permanent hearing loss, sitting next to a VERY loud computer can, too. That's why servers have their own room.
   1. Aside from design differences, one way to reduce noise is to limit the speed of a fan using a low-noise adapter (LNA) cable. This has a resistor in the circuit to decrease the amount of electricity that the fan receives, resulting in lower RPM and, thus, less noise. Unfortunately, sometimes the most annoying noises are not created at max speed.
      
3. **Power Source**: This can be an important consideration, especially if you don't have the right PSU cables for all situations. Most commonly, fans get their power from the header on the motherboard or hub that they are connected to. However, some fans can also draw power from USB, SATA, Molex D, etc. Do NOT use more than one type of power-providing plug at the same time or you will likely cause damage. Also, make sure that your PC supports that type of power source cable.
   
   
4. **LED Lighting (if applicable)**:If aesthetics are important to you, consider the lighting options. Some fans come with customizable RGB lighting that can sync with your other components. Lighting on any computer part has no positive performance effects (aside from acting as an indicator) but can negatively impact performance if the fan's design hasn't been altered to increase available power so that the fan itself isn't negatively impacted in terms of performance. There are, in essence, 3 options: monochrome LEDs, variable color (RGB/chromatic) LEDs, and addressable RGB (ARGB) LEDs.
   1. Monochrome LEDs: The first only offers a single color although there can be many LEDs - each with its own color - and generally can only be on or off and are usually powered by the same cable as the fan's cable. Some fans include a toggle or selector to change the pattern, etc. These are often the least expensive fans and are most often used on DC fans, although some manufacturers pair the monochrome LEDs with PWM fans, too. Unless the design is altered, these will decrease the fan's performance.
   2. Variable color (RGB/chromatic) LEDs: The second type can change colors, patterns and frequency based on signals from software (e.g. OpenRGB, SignalRGB) or firmware (e.g. a fan/lighting hub), and have a dedicated fan cable for RGB control, and are supported by most motherboards and hubs/controllers, but are somewhat limited as to what can be achieved visually. Despite the limitations, RGB fans offer a wide degree of lighting options through hardware and software and, if the design is superior, can rival low-end ARGB fans. RGB LEDs are used on both DC and PWM fans. Some devices also provide tertiary support via a header or hub port for RGB LED strips.
   3. Addressable RGB (ARGB) LEDs: ARGB offers full control over the lighting, with the ability to individually control every fan, but not many mobos, hubs and controllers offer the necessary support in the form of headers, ports, etc. These fans are often amongst the most expensive, and ARGB LEDs are most often found on PWM fans. A small number of devices offer tertiary support of ARGB strip lighting.
   4. No LEDs: Pretty self-explanatory, and my preference. It's a waste of money and electricity.
      
5. **Build Quality**:Build quality includes: bearing type, frame and propeller materials, airflow control, design, connector type (2-pin, 3-pin, 4-pin, Molex D, proprietary) and cabling.
   1. Design:Two fans with otherwise equivalent statistics will perform differently if their designs (including materials) are different. This is probably the first or second largest contributor to performance.
      1. Frames: There are different frame designs but most are simply a square frame. Others minimize the use of plastic by having 4 anchor points that are usually rounded, although there are a few that look rather interesting, like the Alseye W12
         and the Zalman ZM-SF120.
         
         
         For radiators, the regular square frame is the best choice because it offers the least chance of leaking, especially when combined with a gasket.
      2. Blades: Fan makers have to achieve a compromise between AF and SP, and they do this with the design of the blades. AF blades usually have a narrow blade and large gaps between them, while SP blades have a wide blade and a very small gap, with hybrids ranging in-between.
      3. Airflow and sound control: These design modifications attempt to direct the air, and/or reduce noise, and can look like protrusions, indentations, slots or even teeth on the fan's blades and/or frame.
         
         
         Aerocool Dead Silence
         
         Sharkoon Shark BladesXigmatek XAF-F1253Fractal Design Dynamic X2 GP-12DeepCool TF 140S
         
         be quiet! Light Wings
      4. Bearing type: Fans with quality bearings tend to last longer and operate more quietly. Bearing type affects price, speed, lifespan, positioning, and noise. There are many types of bearings, with rifle and sleeve bearings being of lower quality but less expensive, and ball-bearing, mag-lev and liquid (all of which have several types with varying degrees of quality: https://silentpcreview.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=12438) being better but more expensive. Some bearing types are more susceptible to damage by dust and/or positioning. As a fan's bearings wear out, it tends to slow down and become noisy, and this can be impacted by design and materials quality. Spherical roller thrust bearings are designed for heavy axial loads, are expensive and are found in commercial fans. Some bearing types only work well in the vertical position, while others work best in the horizontal position, and a few work well in both; ball-bearing, fluid dynamic bearing and mag-lev are the most versatile.
         1. As a note, there are 3 common types of PC fans:
            • standard fans that pull air through the blades,
            • fans that pull air like a watermill in a circular chamber, often referred to as blowers,
            • and AirJet (created by Frore Systems), which are solid-state. I know that sounds like an oxymoron but you'll believe it when you watch the LTT video!
              View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vdD0yMS40a0
              
      5. Materials: Look for fans with durable materials. Liquid Crystal Polymer (LCP), for example, is one of the best materials because it doesn't easily change shape due to speed and temperature. Frame materials include not just the frame itself but any softer dampening materials at connection points to reduce vibration transmission to the PC. Virtually all vans used to be made from only metal but nowadays most fans are plastic, which decreases weight and, thus, can increase lifespan, but makes them more prone to physical damage in transit and in your computer. I've received a few with broken blades, a disconnected hub, or frame damage.
      6. Connector and cabling type: Addressed below.
         
   2. **Silicone Gaskets**: A few fans come with these but most don't. They are placed between the fan and whatever it's against to reduce leaking air (lost airflow/pressure). You can buy them from the fan's manufacturer or separately, although some frame designs make it quite difficult, if not impossible, to use. They can also add a splash of color.
      
6. **PWM (4-pin) vs DC (2- or 3-pin)**:
   1. 2-pin DC: If you need only a single-speed fan running constantly at max, and don't care what that speed is, then a 2-pin DC fan is sufficient. These are the cheapest but also the least common nowadays.
      1. Molex D: These are a Molex design that are shaped like a D and have 4 pins/holes in them, usually designed so that you can plug another into the other end of the plug. There are Molex D plug fans that are misleadingly sold as 2-4 pin when they most often use only 2 pins. If you have a Molex D fan, you can connect it directly to your PSU for consistent RPM, or get an adapter to the regular 2-pin type so it can run from the mobo or hub. Some will offer both a Molex D and a 3- or 4-pin plug. The main advantage to Molex D, aside from direct power, is that they can be daisy-chained. Although many PSU makers still provide Molex D power cables, I'm unaware of any modern mobos that do, so make sure there's also a 3- or 4-pin plug on the fan's cable!
   2. 3-pin DC: If knowing and changing the speed of the fan is important, the 3rd pin provides a tachometer signal, which can help mobos with voltage control for speed variance. These are a bit more expensive than 2-pin fans and still fairly common.
   3. 4-pin PWM: Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) fans offer the 4th pin for direct control of the speed by "pulsing" the electricity to maintain a specific speed. How refined that control is, however, depends on the components used in the controller (e.g. mobo, hub or controller). Cheaper quality means a reduced range of control at the low end. These are generally more expensive. They are also DC fans. Some hubs and controllers claim to be PWM but only have 3 pins and, thus aren't really PWM. Some manufacturers will lie and try to convince you their products are PWM but if the 4th wire is missing, they are not. Others will label a Molex Dplug as 4-pin, even if it only has 2 holes in use.
      1. Zero RPM: Some PWM fans offer "zero RPM" wherein the fan will stop spinning to save electricity when the temperature is low enough. This can be adjusted with the fan curve in BIOS or software.
   4. Proprietary connectors: Some companies, such as Corsair, Asiahorse and Lian Li, have moved towards using proprietary connectors to force customers to stick with them. Personally, I do not like this and, unless you are willing to replace the plugs and not use their hubs, you should avoid such products despite the advantages some may offer unless you plan to pay the extra cost of only buying their brand, which can sometimes be large. Proprietary connectors may have 5 or more pins/holes and you'll have to have a hub, connector, repeater or node with the same connector to use these fans. Generally, if you buy a single fan with a proprietary connector, it won't come with a hub, but a multi-pack will.

Top: Corsair proprietary ARGB connector; Bottom: standard ARGB connector

Akyga proprietary plug for PWM and LEDs

1. **Ease of Installation**:There is generally very little difference from one fan to another as to how easy it is to install, although a small number possess additional pieces that make it harder to install, and some offer multiple extra pieces so that you can more easily install them in a case, on a CPU cooler or on a radiator. For convenience, you can pay extra to get one with additional parts, some of which you may never use. Most fans simply offer short bolts or self-tapping bolts, although some will have rubber or silicone "pins" that can hold the fan in place and some will reduce vibrations traveling from the fan to the case/heatsink/radiator. However, those made of regular rubber tend to not stand up well to repeated installations because they either stretch and snap or become harder as they age. The single largest contributor to ease of installation is the size of the fan, especially thickness, so be careful to make sure that the fans won't clash with nearby parts. A small number of fans offer special installation features, such as daisy-chaining through cables or through plug-and-socket direct connects, such as Lian Li, Phanteks, SAMA and Asiahorse
   1. Mounting Orientation: Do not confuse this with the direction of airflow. Vertical means it is "standing" and horizontal that it is "lying down".
   2. Adjustible-Direction Mounting: This is an extremely rare feature in which the frame is designed so that you can adjust the direction of airflow on 2or 3 axes. The only fan I'm aware of that offers this is the Inwin Mars 120mm Fan; it's over $60 and I cannot find it in the USA. You'll be better off 3D-printing or or buying something if you need to customize the direction of flow.
      
   3. Daisy-chaining: This feature reduces the tangle of cables in your case by providing one of several ways to connect in series fans that are close enough to each other by providing both a plug and a port. The first fan in the series is controlled by the header, and all fans connected to it will run at the same percentage so it's best to connect fans that are the same for consistent results. Other fans offer direct connections, effectively making them one unit when connected.
      
      SAMA 3 IN 1 ARGB PC Case Fans Uni Fan Kit Easy Link
      Asiahorse MATRIX-PINK 58 All-in-One Square FramePhanteks PH-F120D30_DRGB_PWM_BK01_3PLian Li UNI Fan SL120 V2
2. **Compatibility**: Ensure that the fan size, including thickness, fits your case and that the connectors are compatible with your motherboard. Note that although some 2-pin fan plugs cannot be attached to 3- and 4-pin headers because of a difference in pin size, you can always attach 3- and 4-pin plugs to 3- and 4-pin headers. Just keep in mind that a difference between plug and header means that the PWM feature is unavailable. Proprietary designs ensure a lack of compatibility with competing brands and, thus, should be avoided.
3. **Price**: The vast majority of fans cost less than $30, and there are many that cost less than $10, but a small number of fans cost over $100 each and are generally not worth the cost, except for special function fans that can even go into the thousands of dollars. Most fans are produced in China and Chinese companies are undermining foreign companies by offering quality fans at lower prices with good warranties, even going so far as to steal the designs from other companies that manufacture in China.
4. **Warranties & Service Guarantees**: Not every company offers a warranty or service guarantee. Some companies will still help you replace a defective or broken fan, while others will give you a limited timeframe, and some won't even respond (sometimes even famous brands don't respond). Some companies don't bother to check if you're the original purchaser but others, especially more expensive brands like Noctua, may require proof-of-purchase to avoid replacing a fan that was bought used. On the other hand, Noctua also offers warranties that are longer than most other manufacturers. Additionally, the quality of support and service, both by the agents and the technicians, varies. I ordered a new Alseye fan but it came in a ripped box, so I asked for a replacement but the vendor sent another one in a different ripped box. Other companies have been much better.
5. **Direction of flow**:Most fans will have some kind of indicator on the frame showing which way the fan blows, and which way it turns. This isn't strictly necessary since you can look at the fan blades to determine both of these, but the indicators reduce confusion. You don't want to use fans with opposing directions of rotation in a push-pull configuration as they'll cancel each other out.
   1. Reversed Fan: Although this is mostly an aesthetic choice, there are "reverse" fans where they blow in the opposite direction of most fans. This is because some people want to mount it in a position where the decorative hub sticker won't be visible with a "normal" fan. There are fans that can be toggled to run in either direction although I haven't found any yet.
6. **Multiple Fans in a Row**:There are two main possibilities:
   1. Stacked: Two or more fans connected directly to each other. Unless they are exactly the same and perfectly synchronized, it is unlikely that this will result in any benefits. Given how difficult it is to achieve good results, it's not recommended.
   2. Push-Pull: This is most often done on a heatsink or radiator, where you have one or more fans on each side. For example, a 240mm radiator would have 2 fans next to each other on one side pulling in air, and another pair on the other side exhausting that air. Depending on the fans and a lot of variables, you will see an improvement over fans only on one side, but it certainly will not be even 50% better.
7. **Software**: There are a lot of different companies offering software to control fans and their lights. I don't recommend Asus Armoury Crate as it tends to take full control over the fans and doesn't like to let go (or be uninstalled). Every program has its own strengths and weaknesses. One free option is Fan Control by RemOo. Programs cannot force the hardware to do what its components won't allow, such as starting a fan below it's natural RPM minimum or the range supported by a fan hub. Software to control the LEDs was mentioned previously.
8. **Other Aesthetics**:Aside from lighting, coloration, frame appearance and unique designs can add appeal to your setup.
   1. Cable sleeves: Since exposed wires have multiple colors that displease some people, you might want to look for fans with, or buy, cable sleeves. These will generally be woven plastic sleeves of a single color. They also offer a modest amount of protection.
   2. Silicone gaskets and corner anti-vibration rubber pieces: If you're looking for extra color, some companies and fan makers offer these to spice up the visual appeal of the fans without wasting money on powering LEDs. Some manufacturers include them as the default, while others will include different choices for you to attach. Some companies, like Noctua, also sell silicone corner pieces and gaskets of various colors.
      
      JJHXSM Fan Damper Silicone Corner PiecesAlphacool Susurro Anti-Noise Gasket 24685Noctua NA-IS1-12 Sx2
   3. Fan colors: Many fan makers lack creativity and so you'll see a lot of fans with black, white and/or gray. Noctua's two-tone brown is an exception. Nevertheless, the increasing demand for other colors (and pure black *yawn*) have caused some companies to experiment with colors for the frames and blades. Some, such as Sharkoon, Enermax, Alseye, and Aerocool have come up with some pretty interesting looks.
   4. More lights: Some manufacturers have now taken to including embedding LED lighting in the frames. This can be especially appealing for some. Also, the number of LEDs in a fan can play an important role in the appeal, as can zoning, position and concealment.
9. **Reviews**: Although there are a lot of amateur and customer reviews out there, your best bet is to also look at professional reviews where they actually test fans. Although it is true that some reviewers make reviews that have been paid for by manufacturers to ensure a very positive review, if you look at a variety of different sources you should be able to get a fair idea of some things, but it's very hard to find lifespan test results. Some fans, especially from relatively unknown brands, are unlikely to have such reviews, however.
10. **Reputation**: It can be helpful to look at the reputation of a brand or product line, although sometimes there are things that you won't know about a company unless you look at watchdog organizations like the Better Business Bureau and TrustPilot, for example. Some companies will build their reputation and then take advantage of it to rip off customers, with Gateway Computers being a prominent example.