[SOLVED] Fans spin but no video or power to mouse/keyboard.

GammerJoaq

Reputable
Jun 12, 2017
4
0
4,510
Hello everyone!
I was installing some Realtek Audio Drivers in my system, when I restarted my pc the fans turned on but got no video or power on either the mouse or keyboard.

My system specs are:
MOBO: Biostar B450GT
CPU: Ryzen 5 3600XT
RAM: 2x PNY 8GB XLR8 at 3200
PSU: 600B EVGA
GPU: GeForce GTX 1070
2x1TB HDD / 1x240 SSD
OS: Windows 10 Professional

Two days ago I've updated my MoBo/RAM/CPU (I had an Intel i5 6500 with a Gigabyte z170m) and also formated the SSD to have a clean install.

If it's useful in any way the drivers I've been trying to install where from this page.

I've tried removing the MoBo battery but it didn't work.

Any clue on what should I do? The computer was working perfectly before the restart.

Thanks everyone for your time.
 
Solution
You could try pulling out the two 1 TB HDD's leaving just the boot drive, remove the GTX 1070 GPU (just use integrated graphics if supported), and then attempt to boot via Safe Mode.

If the system does boot you will have the opportunity to open Reliability History and see what, if any error codes, warnings, or informational events have been captured.

Note:

Anything you do could cause data loss. Even trying to back up the data.

Has all data been backed up and proven to be recoverable and readable? Maybe via one of the HDDs?

With the HDDs out of the system then they will not be impacted by some subsequent power or software glitch while you "try another thing in the spare time".

Ralston18

Titan
Moderator
This: "got no video or power on either the mouse or keyboard. "

My thought is that there is a loose connection or damaged connector.

Perhaps seems to be fully in place but is actually not in place.

Power down, unplug, open the case.

Verify by sight and feel that all cards, connectors, RAM, and jumpers are fully and firmly in place.

Ensure that all wires going into the connectors are secure. Gently wiggle to check.

Did you change or otherwise mix and match PSU cables?

Lastly: EVGA (600 watt) PSU - how old, what specific model, age, condition?
 

GammerJoaq

Reputable
Jun 12, 2017
4
0
4,510
This: "got no video or power on either the mouse or keyboard. "

My thought is that there is a loose connection or damaged connector.

Perhaps seems to be fully in place but is actually not in place.

Power down, unplug, open the case.

Verify by sight and feel that all cards, connectors, RAM, and jumpers are fully and firmly in place.

Ensure that all wires going into the connectors are secure. Gently wiggle to check.

Did you change or otherwise mix and match PSU cables?

Lastly: EVGA (600 watt) PSU - how old, what specific model, age, condition?

I've checked the connections and it all seemed fine.
The PSU is an EVGA 600B 80 Plus Bronze. Not modular so I can't change the cables.
It is weird after that reset that happened... I was using the pc before that and the previous day's with no problem.

edit: Forgot to specify how old is the PSU. I'm not 100% sure but it isn't older than 4 years (that's when I bought the previous components)
 
Last edited:

Ralston18

Titan
Moderator
If the PSU is between 3 - 4 years old and has been heavily used for gaming, video editing, etc. then it may have been at some threshold stage.

Able to support the original components but the power demands of the updated components proved to be too much. Hit/exceeded the threshold and something "broke".

Do you have access to another known working PSU that you can swap in for testing?

And, if you have a multi-meter and know how to use it you can check the current PSU's voltage outputs. Not a full test as the PSU is not under load but any out of spec voltages will be an indication of a failed PSU.

https://www.lifewire.com/how-to-manually-test-a-power-supply-with-a-multimeter-2626158

Maybe get a knowledgeable family member or friend to help if necessary.
 

GammerJoaq

Reputable
Jun 12, 2017
4
0
4,510
If the PSU is between 3 - 4 years old and has been heavily used for gaming, video editing, etc. then it may have been at some threshold stage.

Able to support the original components but the power demands of the updated components proved to be too much. Hit/exceeded the threshold and something "broke".

Do you have access to another known working PSU that you can swap in for testing?

And, if you have a multi-meter and know how to use it you can check the current PSU's voltage outputs. Not a full test as the PSU is not under load but any out of spec voltages will be an indication of a failed PSU.

https://www.lifewire.com/how-to-manually-test-a-power-supply-with-a-multimeter-2626158

Maybe get a knowledgeable family member or friend to help if necessary.

It may be that... I have another PSU but I doubt that will be useful to test (cheap sentey cpu that is +6 years old). That PSU is also in another computer I built with the old cpu/MoBo/ram that my build had.

I don't own a multimeter so I can't test it that way.

I'm gonna ask some friends if anyone got a spare PSU to test if that's the problem. If that doesn't work I'll go to the place where I bought the new components to see if they can help.

Should I try another thing in the spare time?

Thanks a lot.
 

Ralston18

Titan
Moderator
You could try pulling out the two 1 TB HDD's leaving just the boot drive, remove the GTX 1070 GPU (just use integrated graphics if supported), and then attempt to boot via Safe Mode.

If the system does boot you will have the opportunity to open Reliability History and see what, if any error codes, warnings, or informational events have been captured.

Note:

Anything you do could cause data loss. Even trying to back up the data.

Has all data been backed up and proven to be recoverable and readable? Maybe via one of the HDDs?

With the HDDs out of the system then they will not be impacted by some subsequent power or software glitch while you "try another thing in the spare time".
 
Solution

GammerJoaq

Reputable
Jun 12, 2017
4
0
4,510
You could try pulling out the two 1 TB HDD's leaving just the boot drive, remove the GTX 1070 GPU (just use integrated graphics if supported), and then attempt to boot via Safe Mode.

If the system does boot you will have the opportunity to open Reliability History and see what, if any error codes, warnings, or informational events have been captured.

Note:

Anything you do could cause data loss. Even trying to back up the data.

Has all data been backed up and proven to be recoverable and readable? Maybe via one of the HDDs?

With the HDDs out of the system then they will not be impacted by some subsequent power or software glitch while you "try another thing in the spare time".
I guess I could try that. The other drives have stuff but nothing that's ultra important. I'll try leaving only the boot drive and then starting up the system.
 

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