FAST computer, now lagging every single game. Overheating?

[alexmoose]

Hey guys, I bought a computer about a year ago to do basic video editing and have never come to maxing it's capacity. Yes I know the video card isn't amazing but it's optimized for editing and I've NEVER had games lag even on max settings.

Recently anything I launch I get a lag spike every 5 seconds. The only game I currently play is Heroes of the Storm and whatever graphics I choose it's basically unplayable. What could be causing it? I know it could be a whole host of problems so if you could point me to some tests to narrow it down that would be really helpful. One issue I read about is overheading, and I think my CPU temp is high - this screenshot is when it's idle and I'm just browsing the web.

My specs:

Much apriciated,
Alex.

 

[ssoussana]

That is ridiculously high idle temps. Even under load your temps should not be that high at all. Shut down your system immediately and check your CPU cooler and make sure everything is functional.
You should be at or below 40c for idle temps. 60-65 under load depending on what type of cooler.

 

[Cypherdude]

If you are still running your PC, as the previous poster indicated, your i7-5820K is running at over 2x temperature what it is supposed to be. You should immediately shut down and check your CPU heatsink. You should not run your CPU at such high temperatures. Have you overclocked your i7-5820K or your GTX 770? You did not include your GTX 770 in your HWMonitor screenshot so I don't know what temperature it is running at.

Have you recently moved your PC or moved your CPU heatsink? On the larger heatsinks, it is possible to move the heatsink by mistake, thereby causing the heatsink to not be in full contact with the CPU core.

You CPU usage is very low. If you have not moved your PC case, not moved your CPU heatsink and not O/C'd your CPU, it might be dust. On desktops, they usually have dust build-up over a single year. I discussed this in my YouTube video. Use compressed air and a small vacuum cleaner in the manner I demonstrate in my video to clean your PC. Be careful not to move or touch any components. This is a last resort. I am skeptical dust could send the temperature up so high. However, all of your CPU cores are running uniformly at over 80°C.

I just remembered one last possibility. If true, it would not be good news for you. Many of Intel's previous generation CPU's, including Haswell, had poor quality or application of the thermal paste (TIM or Thermal Interface Material) underneath the CPU thermal cap (IHS or Integrated Heat Spreader). However, because all of your CPU cores are running hot, hopefully it is only dust. From what I understand, a bad Intel IHS job affects only 1 or a few of the cores. Here is an example of 1 core being affected. This person was affected by the poor quality Intel IHS job. Here are some more links:
1. Does Haswell use crappy TIM between the IHS and silicon?
2. 4770k /4670K IHS Removals

First see if the CPU heatsink is attached properly. If it is OK, try cleaning your CPU heatsink of dust. If that fails, you will have to decide what to do. Removing the IHS is a risky procedure. You could destroy your CPU. I would not want to attempt it. Call Intel or some other tech support.

 

[alexmoose]

Hey guys thank you for the response. I've shut down my system when I read the post. Me and my dad removed the Heatsync (some kind of watercooling system how do I find out the exact make?) and spread out the contact paste a bit more and reattached it. This is the temp of the CPU and video card after about 30 minutes of running the game. The lag seems to be gone and it's in the lower numbers but I would not be suprised if after a few hours it goes up into 90s again since it's already 65-72 from the start.

I haven't overclocked anything and have it set on lowest setting (it ranges from 1200 to 2400 over time)

When I bought the computer from Cyberpower PC I chose quality elements in major parts (like CPU video card motherboard) and went with generics on things like water cooling case, so it could just be a poorly made cooling system that is not working well after a year.

Is there a way to test my cooling system? Or more specifically is there anythin BUT the cooling system that can be causing this problem. Obviously if I know that this is the case I'll replace it, but I want to narrow down my options if there could be anything else. I thoroughly vacuumed the computer a few days ago thinking it might be dust.

So more tests or I need to look for replacement cooling system?

Thank you!

 

[Cypherdude]

Hey guys thank you for the response. I've shut down my system when I read the post. Me and my dad removed the Heatsync (some kind of watercooling system how do I find out the exact make?) and spread out the contact paste a bit more and reattached it. This is the temp of the CPU and video card after about 30 minutes of running the game. The lag seems to be gone and it's in the lower numbers but I would not be suprised if after a few hours it goes up into 90s again since it's already 65-72 from the start.
...

I haven't overclocked anything and have it set on lowest setting (it ranges from 1200 to 2400 over time)
...
When I bought the computer from Cyberpower PC I chose quality elements in major parts (like CPU video card motherboard) and went with generics on things like water cooling case, so it could just be a poorly made cooling system that is not working well after a year.

Is there a way to test my cooling system? Or more specifically is there anythin BUT the cooling system that can be causing this problem. Obviously if I know that this is the case I'll replace it, but I want to narrow down my options if there could be anything else. I thoroughly vacuumed the computer a few days ago thinking it might be dust.

So more tests or I need to look for replacement cooling system?

Thank you!

It's probably easier just to contact Cyberpower PC and ask them what they installed. Because they are a PC maker, they might have installed the cheapest water cooling parts they could find. In order to cool your CPU, your water cooling system needs to use a water pump to circulate water through a radiator. It could be your water pump is failing. It is also possible your tubes need bleeding.

Because you are not O/C'ing, it might be better to just use a high quality heatsink such as the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO as I have in my system. Personally, I don't use water cooling because of all the problems involved. There can be leaks which can destroy your motherboard, air bubbles, pump failures, etc... If you don't O/C, you don't need water cooling.

 

[alexmoose]

Cypher, thanks for the info. Turns out I have http://www.asetek.com/desktop/oem-cpu-coolers/510lc/. I've looked into a few recommendations for exactly my processor and a few threads mention 212 EVO. How do I make sure it's compatible do they have 'rating' like power supplies depending on your processor? Or how do you tell if you need a 20$ heatsink or a 200$ one.

 

[Cypherdude]

Cypher, thanks for the info. Turns out I have http://www.asetek.com/desktop/oem-cpu-coolers/510lc/. I've looked into a few recommendations for exactly my processor and a few threads mention 212 EVO. How do I make sure it's compatible do they have 'rating' like power supplies depending on your processor? Or how do you tell if you need a 20$ heatsink or a 200$ one.

I searched for a few reviews and 2011-v3 socket compatibility. I found 2 reviews which specifically mention the i7-5820K and the socket LGA 2011-v3:
1. This is really the best option for an inexpensive cpu cooler, November 26, 2015.
This reviewer mentions seeing temps around 30°C (86°F) at idle and 50°C (122°F) at load which are very good.

2. an overclocked i7-5820k with 32Gigs, February 24, 2015
3. Here are all the Amazon EVO 212 reviews which specifically mention the i7-5820K CPU (this does not work from here for some reason).

Here is the Amazon page again:
Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO - CPU Cooler with 120mm PWM Fan (RR-212E-20PK-R2)

Here is the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO (RR-212E-20PK-R2) manufacturer page. Before buying, I recommend you first search for reviewers who have your particular motherboard and have successfully installed the Hyper 212 EVO. Sometimes, even though the Hyper 212 EVO is spec'd for the 2011-v3 socket, it may not fit because other components such as RAM get in the way. It will probably fit.

When I built my system, I bought a 12g syringe of Arctic Silver 5. 12g should be enough to install 10 CPU's. Here is the Arctic Silver 5 manufacturer page. Make sure what you buy is authentic made by Arctic Silver and not counterfeit. Amazon does not sell it directly so, IMHO, buy from LLYtech and not from Big Blue Supplies. Arctic Silver was always the best for years so I always used it through their upgrades from AS 1 to 5.

I didn't like the quality of the fan which came with the CM EVO 212 so I bought a Scythe Slip Stream 120 PWM SY1225SL12LM-P Fan. I think this could be the highest quality, silent, fan available. You might want to do some research on your own and decide. It depends if you want a louder, higher RPM or not. I greased the Scythe before I installed it with 2 drops of household oil and some Super Lube Synthetic grease. Here is my Amazon review with some pic's. Don't forget the household oil. Make sure your motherboard is compatible with the PWM 4-pin fan connector. It probably is.

Be sure to download and read the Arctic Silver - intel_app_method_vertical_line_v1.1 PDF. Arctic Silver page for all Intel CPU's.

For other AMD CPU readers: Arctic Silver page for all AMD CPU's.

 

[alexmoose]

Hey man I can't overemphasize how helpful this is, you rock! I checked for my mobo and will order the 212 tommorow.

 

[Cypherdude]

Hey man I can't overemphasize how helpful this is, you rock! I am a bit concerned about my mobo, like you said I googled it specifically and some people reported issues mounting it http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-2414693/cooler-master-hyper-212-evo-lga-2011-stand-screws-short.html.

Should I look for different compatible heatsinks?

I think you're OK with the CM 212 EVO. I did a search for your mobo MSI X99S SLI PLUS and the Cooler Master (CM) 212 EVO. I got 5 hits. Here are the hits from a site called PC Part Picker which has your mobo and the 212 EVO. Here are the last 4 of 5 builds which are all relevant and all work correctly:
1. The Most Generic Build Ever
2. 2015 - 1080p Gaming/Editing Rig
3. Bertha And Perkins
4. JV Workstation

All of the above builds work correctly. The link you gave me, "Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo LGA 2011 stand-off screws are too short", IMHO, probably didn't know how to assemble it.

ALL of these Amazon reviewers used the CM 212 EVO on an Intel 5820K. The most recent was 8 days ago. The reviewer says the included fan seized up after about 2 years of steady use so buy that Scythe Slip Stream 120 PWM SY1225SL12LM-P Fan and don't forget to oil and grease it.

I would use the CM 212 EVO. I think it's still the best heatsink (HS). It's still the only HS which has "4 Direct Contact heat pipes with Continuous Direct Contact" which is why I bought it. This means the 212 EVO's 4 heat pipes are in direct contact with the CPU and the 4 heat pipes are not separated by aluminum strips. The 212 EVO HS also only weighs 465g (1.1lb). You don't want to put too much weight on your mobo with a huge HS, especially when you move your PC. Just be sure to follow the instructions exactly. In addition to the included paper instructions, go to the CM Hyper 212 EVO page, click on the "Download" tab and download all of the documents. Make sure you buy Arctic Silver 5. Do NOT use the included thermal paste because it's cheap.

If you download the Hyper_212_EVO_(LGA_2011)_Product_Sheet.rar file, you will see it has socket 2011 support. The Hyper_212_EVO_Intel_Installation.pdf file also mentions socket 2011 on page 3. The CM Hyper 212 EVO specs tab also mentions socket 2011.

I have one major warning for you: Do NOT allow the 4 stand-offs, the threaded sockets which go on the top of the motherboard through to the bottom and are connected by the 4 nuts underneath, to SPIN around as you are tightening them. If you allow the stand-offs to spin around as you are tightening them, they will cut into the top of the motherboard, possibly damaging it.

Good luck.

 

[alexmoose]

THANK YOU FOR THIS. Can't imagine the hours I'd spend getting this info myself coming from a position of knowing jack shit. <3

 

[alexmoose]

Hey brother just installed it, works like a dream around 30 degrees. Thanks again.

 

[Cypherdude]

Hey brother just installed it, works like a dream around 30 degrees. Thanks again.

Your welcome. Glad it worked.

 

[bystander]

All of the above builds work correctly. The link you gave me, "Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo LGA 2011 stand-off screws are too short", IMHO, probably didn't know how to assemble it.

It's probably not even that. They probably had older versions of the HSF. The i7 5820K uses a new socket that is different than previous sockets. If you buy a new HSF, make sure it fits LGA 2011-v3. Earlier models didn't.