[SOLVED] Feedback on my new build to last at least 3 years

keshk

Honorable
Feb 2, 2014
44
0
10,530
0
Built a PC almost 5 years ago but unfortunately the motherboard seem to have given way plus think it is time for an upgrade.
(For reference was with a 4670k CPU and GTX 760 card with 8 GB Ram and SSD)
Plan to reuse my power supply, casing, 1080p display and replace the rest. Also already have Windows 10.

Note that I have no intention to do any overclocking.

Could I get an advice if this is a reasonable build that would last me at least 3 years with no issues. I do play FFXIV mostly and like to grab latest 3rd person games on PC and play them on medium settings and would love it as long as I can get 60fps out of it. Other wise I am a software developer who mildly works with Photoshop, Unity3D and Android development requiring virtualization options (Docker and Genymotion Emulators).

Major questions:
1. Advice if I am wasting money on something and a cheaper alternative to it. (Or the other way where a small fee would give me something better)

These are all queries on the motherboard which seems to be my biggest issue.
  1. I am worried about the motherboard. I feel I don't need a x570 thus want to go with the b450 but I am hearing mixed info. The questions / answers seems to suggest I don't need a BIOS upgrade and a 3rd gen CPU would work just fine. On the other hand when I try to build it with PCPartPicker, it warns me I would need a BIOS upgrade (meaning I need older 2nd Gen CPU which I don't have). So which is it? Do I need a BIOS upgrade or not?
  2. Apparently if I use b450 with an nvme ssd, it disables sata ports. I don't really care about it but I would need to connect to sata ports with my existing ssds so I could transfer over my Windows 10 to the new nvme ssd. Is this going to be an issue due to the sata port disablement when using B450 motherboard?
  3. Or is B450 is a bad idea / too old and I should be going with X570?
The following are the items I plan to purchase.

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07STGGQ18/?coliid=I3RL6016I783NB&colid=2ZTIS8GYNHSYO&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

SSD
Samsung 970 EVO 500 GB
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07MFBLN7K/?coliid=IWB55IZ24T7GM&colid=2ZTIS8GYNHSYO&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

RAM
Corsair LPX 16GB
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0143UM4TC/?coliid=I2WFV51KDBH4K7&colid=2ZTIS8GYNHSYO&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

MotherBoard
MSI B450 Tomahawk Max 3rd Gen Ready
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07VB2BG3X/?coliid=I37XHM5G3UADLR&colid=2ZTIS8GYNHSYO&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Or if B450 is a bad idea, an alternative X570 option which is unfortunately more expensive
MSI X570 A Pro
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07TDST84Q/?coliid=I12B5M4G7MFUA1&colid=2ZTIS8GYNHSYO&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

GPU
Gigabyte GEForce RTX 2060 OC
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gigabyte-GeForce-RTX-2060-OC/dp/B07MJGCPW5/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=rtx+2060&qid=1574518297&s=computers&sr=1-3

Appreciate any feedback thanks. Again, want this to last 3 years at least to be able to cope with upcoming games and play them on at least medium settings.
 
Last edited:

NightHawkRMX

Illustrious
What is the make and model of your PSU?

1) For 99% of applications, the 970 evo ssd is overkill. You could go for a 1tb Crucial P1 NVME for the same money, which offers twice the capacity and not much lower performance for most tasks.

2) The B450 tomahawk MAX will not need a bios update. It is designed for 3rd gen and handles a 3600 nicely.

3) For the Sata ports, only 2 are disabled. There should be at least 2-4 remaining working, however you will need to reinstall Windows going from Intel to AMD.

4) The B450 tomahawk max is a great motherboard. It will have no problem with 3rd gen CPU's even the 16 core 3950x, the only drawback being lack of PCIe 4.0 support, which doesn't matter currently.
 

NightHawkRMX

Illustrious
What is the make and model of your PSU?

1) For 99% of applications, the 970 evo ssd is overkill. You could go for a 1tb Crucial P1 NVME for the same money, which offers twice the capacity and not much lower performance for most tasks.

2) The B450 tomahawk MAX will not need a bios update. It is designed for 3rd gen and handles a 3600 nicely.

3) For the Sata ports, only 2 are disabled. There should be at least 2-4 remaining working, however you will need to reinstall Windows going from Intel to AMD.

4) The B450 tomahawk max is a great motherboard. It will have no problem with 3rd gen CPU's even the 16 core 3950x, the only drawback being lack of PCIe 4.0 support, which doesn't matter currently.
 

keshk

Honorable
Feb 2, 2014
44
0
10,530
0
What is the make and model of your PSU?

1) For 99% of applications, the 970 evo ssd is overkill. You could go for a 1tb Crucial P1 NVME for the same money, which offers twice the capacity and not much lower performance for most tasks.

2) The B450 tomahawk MAX will not need a bios update. It is designed for 3rd gen and handles a 3600 nicely.

3) For the Sata ports, only 2 are disabled. There should be at least 2-4 remaining working, however you will need to reinstall Windows going from Intel to AMD.

4) The B450 tomahawk max is a great motherboard. It will have no problem with 3rd gen CPU's even the 16 core 3950x, the only drawback being lack of PCIe 4.0 support, which doesn't matter currently.
The PSU is a Corsair 600Watt Bronze, not sure about the exact model. It is actually a bit unstable throwing some interesting sparks now and then.. but well it still works for now.

The only reason I went for the Samsung SSD is cos they have a software which easily transfers Windows 10 to another 1 of their own SSDs (My current ssd is also Samsung). If there is a way to transfer the Windows 10 without the need for the Samsung software, would love to got for the 1tb Crucial P1 NVME.

I don't get point 3. How would I actually do that? Does that mean if I had actually planned to stick with my old SSD , it actually wont work?
 

NightHawkRMX

Illustrious
Assuming this is a CX600, get rid of it. The CX600s are known for being system killers!
A newer CX or TX would be much more reliable and quieter than the old CX.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B06WW8G3S8?tag=pcp0f-21&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1

Acronis data migration tool for Crucial.

You can reuse drives, but not the Windows install. Mainly the issues comes with the drivers from the old system conflicting with the new hardware. Also, whether you reuse the windows install or not, you will need to get a new key.
 

keshk

Honorable
Feb 2, 2014
44
0
10,530
0
Assuming this is a CX600, get rid of it. The CX600s are known for being system killers!
A newer CX or TX would be much more reliable and quieter than the old CX.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B06WW8G3S8?tag=pcp0f-21&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1

Acronis data migration tool for Crucial.

You can reuse drives, but not the Windows install. Mainly the issues comes with the drivers from the old system conflicting with the new hardware. Also, whether you reuse the windows install or not, you will need to get a new key.
Had a look and it is indeed a CX600 .. Worked fine for me though it did seem to have killed my mobo or at least I think so. Will look into a PSU change and thanks for the link to the tool.

But still confused about the whole Windows issue. I have 2 x SSDs from my previous build (1 being the main and 2nd was added later more for some additional storage stuff). Right now lookin at the 2 SSDS, no idea which is the main one...

I have backups for my work files in those SSDs thus am ok with losing them. I am looking for a way to just get my windows over to the new SSD. I do not have my windows key now.

I was under the impression I would do the new build and use my old SSDs first and expected "all to work fine". From there I just wanted to use the tool to transfer my windows to the new SSD after which I could remove the old SSDs. Guess that is not gonna work?

How do I really go about doing this? Otherwise pretty comfy with my selections and ready to make the purchase. Thanks for helping.
 

NightHawkRMX

Illustrious
You can clone the main drive to your new drive in many cases, but you will encounter problems. You may have stability or performance issues due to the residual drivers. Windows will likely go unactivated as well, depending on your old key.

What you should do is install Windows 100% fresh on the new SSD and then copy over your needed files from backup.

Windows 10 fresh install tutorial:
https://www.tomshardware.com/news/how-to-do-clean-installation-windows-10,36160.html

Perhaps @USAFRet could explain it in a way that would make more sens, or correct me if i'm wrong.
 

USAFRet

Titan
Moderator
Mar 16, 2013
118,050
2,811
148,290
19,262
A "clone" is no different than trying to move the physical drive to the new hardware.

Doing this, there are 3 possibilities:
  1. It boots up just fine
  2. It fails completely
  3. It boots up, but you're chasing issues for weeks or months.
I've seen all 3.

Going from a 4670k to anything new in 2019, I'd expect #2 above.
And with a clone, you're dragging along the last 5 years of gunk. Remnants of things that did not uninstall cleanly, orphaned registry entries, etc, etc.

A clean install is strongly recommended, usually required.


For the Windows license, yes, it would be Unactivated upon seeing the new hardware.
Where did your current Win 10 license come from?
 
Reactions: NightHawkRMX

keshk

Honorable
Feb 2, 2014
44
0
10,530
0
A "clone" is no different than trying to move the physical drive to the new hardware.

Doing this, there are 3 possibilities:
  1. It boots up just fine
  2. It fails completely
  3. It boots up, but you're chasing issues for weeks or months.
I've seen all 3.

Going from a 4670k to anything new in 2019, I'd expect #2 above.
And with a clone, you're dragging along the last 5 years of gunk. Remnants of things that did not uninstall cleanly, orphaned registry entries, etc, etc.

A clean install is strongly recommended, usually required.


For the Windows license, yes, it would be Unactivated upon seeing the new hardware.
Where did your current Win 10 license come from?
I am ok to do the clean install, would actually prefer not to drag along any old gunk.
I was having a windows 8 before, I did the upgrade when 10 came for free. It was an OEM version I bought then. Moved house twice since then. Am certain I don't have the relevant cd key details on me anywhere now. Was hoping to just plug in the old SSDs in the new build and get the CD keys from there but from the looks of it guess thats not an option.
 

USAFRet

Titan
Moderator
Mar 16, 2013
118,050
2,811
148,290
19,262
You don't need the license key.

For the OS activation, read and do this before you change any parts:
https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/20530/windows-10-reactivating-after-hardware-change
https://forums.tomshardware.com/threads/windows-build-1607-and-activation.2786960/

For the OS install:
 

USAFRet

Titan
Moderator
Mar 16, 2013
118,050
2,811
148,290
19,262
Was about to ask if OEM is an issue.. guess it is.. Oh well an addition to cost.. Thanks for confirming.

Looking at this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Windows-Professional-English-International-Flash/dp/B0111YEG44

Snooping around if there are better deals. So guess going for an OEM is actually a bad idea?
No, that one isn't quite valid.
Win 10 Pro would be over 100 quid.
And there is zero performance difference between Pro and Home. Only get Pro if you actually need the extra corporate level features.

If you purchase and install, the "OEM" label is of no consequence.


Possibly this:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Windows-Home-Bit-DVD-OEM/dp/B07Z2ZXCB6

Ignore the DVD or USB. The license is what you're paying money for.
You can create your own Win 10 USB for free, direct from Microsoft, for free. And that is actually the preferred way to go. No telling how long ago that USB or DVD was created.
Something you create yourself today will be the most recent release.
https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10
 
Reactions: NightHawkRMX

keshk

Honorable
Feb 2, 2014
44
0
10,530
0
I was looking to get the pro version cos I needed the virtualization option. Else have seen issues with Home version when using Docker and emulators like Genymotion.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Microsoft-Windows-Professional-Bit-OEM/dp/B010S3VVJW/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=windows+10+oem&qid=1574524771&sr=8-4

Would this be ok then? OEM and is a Pro version. Easy on the pricing too. For some reason Amazon recommends it though not something I want to count on. Scary to see neg reviews saying it is fake.
 

USAFRet

Titan
Moderator
Mar 16, 2013
118,050
2,811
148,290
19,262
Again, too cheap for a real Pro license.
Being in the US, I can't seem to force microsoft.com to show me UK prices.

But if you go there, look up the MS price for Win 10 Pro.
If you see it much cheaper elsewhere, it is not valid.
 

keshk

Honorable
Feb 2, 2014
44
0
10,530
0
I'll snoop around see what I could find. Never planned the cost for an OS but guess things never goes as planned. But at least I could confirm to keep to B450 mobo which is a decent save. Thanks.
 

USAFRet

Titan
Moderator
Mar 16, 2013
118,050
2,811
148,290
19,262
I'll snoop around see what I could find. Never planned the cost for an OS but guess things never goes as planned. But at least I could confirm to keep to B450 mobo which is a decent save. Thanks.
Not planning for the cost of the OS is like not planning for the cost of new RAM.
It is what it is.

You can, of course, install it and run it Unactivated, for free.
Until such time as you decide to buy a valid license.

It runs exactly as if you had a license, except for no customization of the Taskbar, and a randomly appearing watermark at bottom right of the screen.

I have a long running Win 10 Pro in a VM, Unactivated, to test exactly this. Almost 3 years (Dec 8), runs exactly as it did on day one. Gets all the current updates, etc.
 

ASK THE COMMUNITY

TRENDING THREADS