Finish up this H2O system?

[DOHCrazy]

Hey all,

Im probly going to go to Water Cooling. Im not a superdooper overclock i just want a quieter cooler machine.
Farthest ive gone with my 2500+ is to 3200+ speeds and i think ill stick with that.

Ive got this cool old guy across the street from me that can make me waterblocks, out of anything i want, and any size. Hes got all the machines to do it with and ive seen him make them before.

I dont really need all the HDD or RAM cooling to I? I do have RAM heatspreaders on. Im just looking for NB, CPU, and GPU cooling. And even with these 3 I dont need anything fancy, just cool and quiet.

Next i need a pump, Res and Radiator. Would a small radiator from Autozone be sufficent or do i need one just for PC's. What is a good pump and Res to get?

I know everyone has their own humble opinion so im gonna get mixed answers.

Also, do you run the pump off of your PS? I have a Thermaltake 420watt PS. But i might get a less fancy case and sell this one if i go watercooling. Ill probly get an Emerax 450 if i get a new case. I wouldnt mind the radiator being outside the case but can everything else be inside it?

Thanks in advance for all the replies.

AMD Barton 2500+
A7N8X Delux
Corsair Matched 256x2 PC3200 w/ Platinum Heat Spreaders
Saphire Radeon 9600 pro
Thermaltake X3
Thermaltake 420 PS
Western Digital 80 gig 7200 HD

 

[LtBlue14]

no you don't need HDD or ram cooling
NB is nice for silence if you currently have an actively cooled NB, otherwise probably unnecessary without extreme overclocks. if you can get the block for free and it's not too restrictive, i'd say go for it though.

a heatercore for an 80s chevette is the classic one that people use, but basically yes you can get any heatercore from a car and use it.

for silence, an eheim 1048 might be in order, though it's kind of expensive for the performance you get. a danner mag 3 with plastic fittings screwed in by hand will give a lot better performance, probably at the cost of a little more noise. i doubt it'd be objectionable if properly insulated, but it's sort of your judgement call. the danner is a lot better performance wise.

using a res is up to you. i personally find that it makes the system easier to fill and bleed, but some people say using a T fitting makes it easier. you can find reservoirs all over the place, <A HREF="http://www.dangerden.com/mall/Misc_Hardware/tubing.asp" target="_new">the danger den one</A> is nice. you'll also need to decide what size tubing and fittings you want for your system. 3/8" and 1/2" are the common choices. then you can buy some clearflex or tygon tubing.

no you don't run the pump off of the power supply, unless you have a 12V pump and it's really underpowered (as they all are).

you also need a fan or two, preferably 2 quiet/silent 120mm fans in a push/pull config on either side of your heatercore, also preferably with a shroud on each.

last but not least, a pump relay switch kit lets the wc system turn on when you power on your computer, so you don't have to remember to. they can be bought cheaply, or made very cheaply

btw, nice system

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this signature area is too dern short, no space to put your system specs

 

[error_911]

a good pump is an eheim 1250 - nice flow rate, good head distance, nice and quiet and reliable (i've had mine for 6 months) - thats about $70
as for the radiator, pick yourself up a heatercore from autozone, not an actual car radiator, they're too big - a heatercore will be the PERFECT size (mine is 16"x2.5"x6.5" from a 1973 Buick Riviera)...
as for the waterblocks - those three as key, but i would look into gettin one for you HD as well - you can improve its performance and lifetime getting it to run cooler

<b>don't hold strong opinions about things you don't understand</b>

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