[SOLVED] First PC Build

[Vitpilen]

I am planning to play on a 24' 1440p 144hz monitor on a mix of triple A titles. My budget is $1,800 USD. But since I don't live in the US, the following build will cost about 1,750$. Please tell me what do you think of it and if it is a good build for a gaming pc that will last for a good 3-4 years, Thanks.

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/R2KdQq

 

[Dj0gany]

I am planning to play on a 24' 1440p 144hz monitor on a mix of triple A titles. My budget is $1,800 USD. But since I don't live in the US, the following build will cost about 1,750$. Please tell me what do you think of it and if it is a good build for a gaming pc that will last for a good 3-4 years, Thanks.

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/R2KdQq

The main problem with your build is the CPU.
RYZEN 5 3600 is a perfect budget cpu which will hold for the next or 2,mainly because it has 6 cores and soon 4 cores will be a limiting factor.Plus i dont think its capable on playing with 144 fps+high settings in newer games on 1440p.If we were talking 1080p it would maybe be taken to consideration.In this build i went with RYZEN 9 3900x,12 cores and 24threads which will be more than enough for even 5-6 years (if not more).I went with 32gb of ram,because there is not a big price difference between 16gb and 32gbs of ram,and for next 3-4 years,32gbs will be more than enough.I stayed with 2070 because its really a amazing card.It will hold great for the next 3-4 years,but you will need to replace it after that.You can change the case if u want,the psu is 80+gold corsair rm 750W unit.The main reason i went with 750W is because of future upgrades.Also i went with 2tb of nvme storage.I think 2tb is more than enogh if you are planning on gaming,plus its super fast.Tell me what u think about this build:
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/Xq7gWb

 

[RodroX]

In my humble opinion:

1. If youre not in a hurry you could wait a bit cause new GPUs are a few months away, and if nvidia holds to the rumors they should bring some good performance upgrade over previous gen ones. And if they are not that impresive, or they are overpriced, old gen should get cheaper anyways.

2. I think the GPU will be my first concern as for 1440p @ 144Hz for triple-A gaming you really have to spend on a very strong one, and if you ask me (right now) I would not get anything lower than an RTX 2080 Super.

3. The CPU is not bad choice, if you can strech to a Ryzen 7 3700X that shold be good enough. Once again, keep in mind new Ryzen 4xxx desktop chips should be launched eventually, in this case I would really try to get a X570 or B550 mobo for best support and upgrade path.

Something like this (the following is just a suggestion, I know there is a budget limit so i tried to keep everything as low as posible):

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor ($274.49 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus PRIME X570-P ATX AM4 Motherboard ($159.99 @ B&H)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro 512 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($74.98 @ Amazon)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda Compute 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($54.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 SUPER 8 GB BLACK GAMING Video Card ($719.99 @ Walmart)
Case: NZXT H510 ATX Mid Tower Case ($69.99 @ Best Buy)
Power Supply: Corsair CXM 750 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply ($124.99 @ Best Buy)
Total: $1559.41
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-06-19 10:46 EDT-0400

I haven't read or view any B550 mobo reviews yet, so Im not sure how the VRM are build and behave, and I don't feel confortable suggesting something I know nothing about. But if you can keep track on the reviews you could save another U$20~U$35 there.

Cheers

 

[geofelt]

Your build is very reasonable.
You need change nothing.
For 1440P, you need a strong graphics card, which you have.
The psu is of good quality.
One thing I might change is the m.2 device.
I would stick with a major brand like samsung or Intel.
And, I would buy a 1tb m.2 up front and forget about a HDD. You can always add extra storage later if you need it.
You might even use a intel 660P 2tb device since they are cheaper, at the cost of slightly lower performance, but vastly faster than a HDD.

Reading the reviews, I might prefer a intel i5-10600k based system for gaming.
Here is a review:
https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/intel-core-i5-10600k-cpu-review

FWIW for a first time builder:
MY build process:

Before anything, while waiting for your parts to be delivered, download
and read, cover to cover your case and motherboard manual.
Buy a #2 magnetic tip philips screwdriver.
I find it handy to buy a power switch like this for testing.
https://www.ebay.com/p/4in1-PC-Powe...or-Computer/631889283?iid=142232821294&chn=ps

1. I assemble the critical parts outside of the case.
That lets me test them for functionality easily.
A wood table or cardboard is fine.
2. Plug in only the necessary parts at first. Ram, cpu, cooler, psu.
Do not force anything. Parts fit only one way.
Attach a monitor to the integrated motherboard adapter if you have one, otherwise to the graphics card.

1. If your motherboard does not have a PWR button, momentarily touch the two pwr front panel pins with a flat blade screwdriver.
2. Repeatedly hit F2 or DEL, and that should get you into the bios display.
3. Boot from a cd or usb stick with memtest86 on it. memtest will exercise your ram and cpu functionality.
4. Install windows.
5. Install the motherboard cd drivers. Particularly the lan drivers so you can access the internet.

Do not select the easy install option, or you will get a bunch of utilities and trialware that you don't want. Drivers only.

1. Connect to the internet and install an antivirus program. Microsoft security essentials is free, easy, and unobtrusive.
2. Install your graphics card and driver if you tested with integrated graphics.

You will need to remove the graphics card later to install your motherboard in the case.
As a tip when screwing the motherboard into the posts, give the screw a small counterclockwise turn until you feel a click.
That lets you know that the screw will engage properly.
Make a note of how the graphics card latches into the pcie slot.
The mechanism will be hidden under the card and may be difficult to work if you have not previously checked how.

1. Update windows to currency.
2. Only now do I take apart what I need to and install it in the case.
3. Now is the time to reinstall your graphics card.

 

[Vitpilen]

Your build is very reasonable.
You need change nothing.
For 1440P, you need a strong graphics card, which you have.
The psu is of good quality.
One thing I might change is the m.2 device.
I would stick with a major brand like samsung or Intel.
And, I would buy a 1tb m.2 up front and forget about a HDD. You can always add extra storage later if you need it.
You might even use a intel 660P 2tb device since they are cheaper, at the cost of slightly lower performance, but vastly faster than a HDD.

Reading the reviews, I might prefer a intel i5-10600k based system for gaming.
Here is a review:
https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/intel-core-i5-10600k-cpu-review

FWIW for a first time builder:
MY build process:

Before anything, while waiting for your parts to be delivered, download
and read, cover to cover your case and motherboard manual.
Buy a #2 magnetic tip philips screwdriver.
I find it handy to buy a power switch like this for testing.
https://www.ebay.com/p/4in1-PC-Powe...or-Computer/631889283?iid=142232821294&chn=ps

1. I assemble the critical parts outside of the case.
That lets me test them for functionality easily.
A wood table or cardboard is fine.
2. Plug in only the necessary parts at first. Ram, cpu, cooler, psu.
Do not force anything. Parts fit only one way.
Attach a monitor to the integrated motherboard adapter if you have one, otherwise to the graphics card.

1. If your motherboard does not have a PWR button, momentarily touch the two pwr front panel pins with a flat blade screwdriver.
2. Repeatedly hit F2 or DEL, and that should get you into the bios display.
3. Boot from a cd or usb stick with memtest86 on it. memtest will exercise your ram and cpu functionality.
4. Install windows.
5. Install the motherboard cd drivers. Particularly the lan drivers so you can access the internet.

Do not select the easy install option, or you will get a bunch of utilities and trialware that you don't want. Drivers only.

1. Connect to the internet and install an antivirus program. Microsoft security essentials is free, easy, and unobtrusive.
2. Install your graphics card and driver if you tested with integrated graphics.

You will need to remove the graphics card later to install your motherboard in the case.
As a tip when screwing the motherboard into the posts, give the screw a small counterclockwise turn until you feel a click.
That lets you know that the screw will engage properly.
Make a note of how the graphics card latches into the pcie slot.
The mechanism will be hidden under the card and may be difficult to work if you have not previously checked how.

1. Update windows to currency.
2. Only now do I take apart what I need to and install it in the case.
3. Now is the time to reinstall your graphics card.

Thank you for such a detailed explanation.
There is a mixed opinion on this thread about the GPU not using the most of its power cause of the CPU is "not enough for this card". Although, I have read and did a lot of research about these two and from what I found is that the graphics card will be completely fine with this build. What do you think of it? I will listen and change the M2 drive to a 1TB 660P Intel.

 

[geofelt]

Much depends on the types of games that you play.
If you play fast action shooters, and particularly at greater than 1080P resolution you need a strong graphics card the most.

If you mainly play multiplayer games with many participants, then you need many threads on the cpu. ryzen with many cheap threads is good there.
Otherwise few games can effectively use more than 6 threads.

If your games are sims, strategy or mmo types, the biggest need is for fast single thread processing. For them, intel is usually best, particularly the overclocked K suffic processors.

If I had a general rule of thumb, it would be to budget at least 2x the cost of the processor for the graphics card. You are spot on there.

 

[Vitpilen]

Much depends on the types of games that you play.
If you play fast action shooters, and particularly at greater than 1080P resolution you need a strong graphics card the most.

If you mainly play multiplayer games with many participants, then you need many threads on the cpu. ryzen with many cheap threads is good there.
Otherwise few games can effectively use more than 6 threads.

If your games are sims, strategy or mmo types, the biggest need is for fast single thread processing. For them, intel is usually best, particularly the overclocked K suffic processors.

If I had a general rule of thumb, it would be to budget at least 2x the cost of the processor for the graphics card. You are spot on there.

So for my understandings I’m fine
I ordered the parts, thank you again! There is one thing I missed when ordering the RAM I got 2x8 of the G.Skill Neo Trident Z at 3600Mhz 18CL instead of 16CL, does it make any difference?

 

[geofelt]

So for my understandings I’m fine
I ordered the parts, thank you again! There is one thing I missed when ordering the RAM I got 2x8 of the G.Skill Neo Trident Z at 3600Mhz 18CL instead of 16CL, does it make any difference?

Not enough to matter. lower timing ram at equal speed is faster, but they are also more expensive. You will not notice the difference. You are good.

 

[Vitpilen]

Not enough to matter. lower timing ram at equal speed is faster, but they are also more expensive. You will not notice the difference. You are good.

I can cancel the order and get a G.Skill Trident Z RGB 3466Mhz 16CL, would this be a better choice?
Also there's a Corsair Vegeance RGB Pro 3200MHz 16CLI for like 30$ less.
Also are there any difference between the "Z RGB" and "Z Neo"?

 

[geofelt]

I would not bother to cancel and reorder.
In the total scheme of things, you will see no difference.
If you divide the speed by the cl, you will get a performance metric in the 200 range for all of the options.
Ram is ram.
Z, neo, and RGB are mostly for marketing or aesthetics.
There can even be a negative with tall or fancy heat spreaders. They can interfere with some air coolers.
Such fancy heat spreaders may only be of use if you are a ram overclocker, trying to get much more speed out of ram than is advertised.
Worry about other things.

 

[Vitpilen]

I would not bother to cancel and reorder.
In the total scheme of things, you will see no difference.
If you divide the speed by the cl, you will get a performance metric in the 200 range for all of the options.
Ram is ram.
Z, neo, and RGB are mostly for marketing or aesthetics.
There can even be a negative with tall or fancy heat spreaders. They can interfere with some air coolers.
Such fancy heat spreaders may only be of use if you are a ram overclocker, trying to get much more speed out of ram than is advertised.
Worry about other things.

Wow I can't thank you enough! I was researching online 3200 CL16 vs 3600 CL18 for the past two hours with different opinions about these two. Thanks to you I won't cancel the order and stick with the CL18 since to what you say it doesn't make any noticeable difference.
Since it is my first time building a PC so I'm pretty much worried to get every part for most "bang for the buck" as possible.