(First Time Builder) Does my selection check out?

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athertonwing

Honorable
Dec 18, 2012
13
0
10,510
I'm working on my first build and I need some expert opinions. I feel I have put together an operational build, but I doubt it is the most cost effective. I'm set on my CPU and GPU, but if the cost of anything else can be reduced, I'm all ears. I know 16GB of RAM might be overkill, but I'm pretty set on it as well. Also, I may buy another 680 in the future so SLI is a thing.

This machine will be for gaming and nothing else. I have another computer for everyday use and an external HDD for storage. Running Starcraft 2 on Ultra with all the bells and whistles at 60+++ FPS is my first priority, but I will play other, more demanding games as well.

Some other points...

- I want a motherboard with WIFI
- I'm concerned about cables and whatnot. I don't want to discover that I have a DVD Burner with no SATA or power cables when I'm trying to fit everything together. Like I said, I'm a first-timer so I'm not sure if it is usual for motherboards to come with extra cables and helpful things like that.
- I have no clue about PSUs and what's necessary. Honestly, most of my list is just the cheapest of the highest rated items on NewEgg. 😛
- Ideally, I want to spend less than $1500. But I'm willing to spend the extra $50-$100 to get the next best whatever if it will make a big difference.

Without further ado...

CPU: Intel Core i7-3770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($319.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus P8Z77-V PRO ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($189.99 @ NCIX US)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($69.99 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 680 2GB Video Card ($457.55 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: SeaSonic 620W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($83.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($24.98 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Professional Full (32/64-bit) ($250.69 @ Amazon)
Total: $1537.16

PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/tg5o
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/tg5o/by_merchant/
Benchmarks: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/tg5o/benchmarks/

Thank you so much for taking your time to read this! Help will be greatly appreciated!!!
 
Solution



Great gaming PC build you have there 😉

There was a test done recently that proves that Win 8 does load games faster than 7 😉 just a thought.



I only put the patriot because of price though they are decent, if you wanted peace of mind for a more reliable name I'd say corsair 8GB - 1600Hz would be great.
I'd say the 850w is made by Seasonic which is the best quality you can get, and the extra wont hurt, I was just giving an alterantive to choose from that is pretty high quaulity as well without wasting resources. So if you want the 850W for the same price, I'm sure it'll last you a long time probably into another future build 😉

The GPU, I recommend either the Gigabyte 670OC or the MSI for best overclocking and cooling. The reasons I suggest those two are because you were originally wanting the performance of a 680. These two cards perform outstandingly at stock clocks and allow you the option to overclock later if you so choose to out perform stock 680 speeds. EVGAs are good but with the reference blower they tend to be hotter which is why I recommended those two cards they typically run cooler because of the dual fan or tri fan setups.
 



Great gaming PC build you have there 😉

There was a test done recently that proves that Win 8 does load games faster than 7 😉 just a thought.
 
Solution
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/toiG

EDIT - http://pcpartpicker.com/p/towD Swapped out the 200R for the 400R, why not? You guys have saved me a ton of cash! (THANK YOU!) I may as well get a more attractive case, and I feel like the 400R has some class about it.

OK! This is the REAL final build. I broke down and went with an SSD. I also downgraded Win7 Pro to Home Premium OEM. I'm ok with not being able to transfer my Win license to another MOBO. But I want to know if I can later upgrade to Pro, Ultimate, or Win8 in the future with an OEM version of Home Premuim. And could I completely remove Win7 and install another OS onto the MOBO after attaching Win7? I understand my Win7 will be useless at that point, but I'm more worried about rendering the MOBO useless.

EDIT AGAIN - I just ordered everything...! Thanks A LOT guys!
 


Nice little build you ended up with. I don't think you will regret the SSD. I think you will be shocked at how much of a difference it actually makes, I know I could never (willingly) go back to a HDD after using one.
 


The speed is addictive that is for sure.. 😀