First time watercooling. Part list advice.

Ronnie30

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Jun 15, 2014
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Hi,

So let me start off by saying that this is a passion project that I've wanted to do for a while, and I'm not looking to upgrade any of my PC components, except my case.

I'll be using a Cooler Master H500M (http://www.coolermaster.com/case/mid-tower/mastercase-h500m/ - ideally better suited for air cooling, but looks stunning). I'm running an i7-6700k on a Gigabyte GA-Z170x-UD5 TH motherboard with a Gigabyte GTx1080 GV-N1080XTREME-8GD-PP Rev 2.0.

I've been reading up on water cooling components for weeks, but it's all starting to become a blur. I ran the configurator on the ekwb website, then added/removed components as needed from the final part list.

They didn't have the H500M listed in the configurator, but I've checked the dimensions and I'm certain my Rad, fans and pump/res combo will fit. I'll be top mounting the rad and air cooling the GPU. In the distant future, I'll likely get a GPU that I can add to the loop. I opted for a 360 RAD for overkill on cooling, and went as thick as I could fit in the case.

Part list: https://ibb.co/dBeCmK

My questions are...
1. Do you think there's anything else I need?
2. Is there anything there that's irrelevant? (I added QDC connections so I can easily create space if I need to work in the tower. I might need a 2nd pair though)
3. Is the listed coolant sufficient or will I need copper coil, additives, etc?
4. If anyone has a H500M (mine hasn't arrived yet), is it easy enough to access the fill port on the top? Or could I remove the fill port, add a fitting, run a tube into the top and seal it, so that I can simply remove the top of the case when I need to fill? Any other suggestions for an easy fill port?
5. With the pump/res combo sitting in the standard location in the h500m (the case has a mounting bracket behind the front fans, on top of the HDD cage), would I just need to add a Y/T fitting to the outlet port, then attach the ball valve, to create my drain port? Is there a better location or way to add a drain port?
6. Surely there's something I've forgotten, so any other advice?

Finally, I'm located in Australia, so may not have access to the all brands and models of components that some of you may suggest.

Thanks
 

Lutfij

Titan
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You don't need the bridging plug. You can source some 16AWG wire and just cross a black wire with the green wire. If you don't mid the expense, disregard my suggestion. Since you're going with soft tubing, I'd suggest getting 1/2 compression fittings. More flow. Since you're dealing with PWM fans I'd ask you to forgo the y splitter, pick up a longer PWM fan splitter and one which is molex/sata powered. Silverstone, Swiftech, Akasa Panteks make one.

While the quick disconnects are handy, it's something I'd forgo as well not until I have to drop the GPU into the loop. In which case it's time for maintenance and I'll need to tear down the loop anyway.

I know PCCaseGear is the largest store that deals with computer parts and there's also TheKoolRoom. You may want to read through the watercooling sticky's store section(in my sig).
 

grimfox

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Jun 2, 2009
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I would look at getting the P360 kit. It should save you some money over buying piecemeal since a lot of the parts you have in there are straight from the kit.

IMHO the vardar fans have control issues. I had a lot of problems with trying to control them since the RPM output is not as stable as other fans. I switched to corsair ML fans. I haven't had issues with those.

You also need some M-M extenders to mount your ball valve and T fitting. I would also seriously consider looking at getting some right angle and 45 fittings to clean up the look of the loop. I used 45s on the CPU and GPU blocks and a right angle on the pump/res. You'll also want to consider how you are going to fill your res. Remember you have to refill the loop every 3mo-1 year (depending on various factors) so ease of access to fill and drain are important.

Good luck!
 

Ronnie30

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Jun 15, 2014
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Thanks Lutfij, I've definitely looked through that sticky a few times recently.

I'll keep the bridging plug, since it's one less item to forget to get.

The 1/2" ID fittings is imperial. In metric it's an inner diameter of 13mm. This is what I've already got listed, but the site seems to use metric instead of imperial measurements.

I didn't notice I still had the Y splitter on the list as I added a 4 way splitter to control the RAD fans. Removed the Y splitter now. The 4 way splitter is longer and is molex powered.

I can do without the Quick Disconnects for now. Thanks



grimfox, The P360 kit is almost identical in price (About $40 difference) but it doesn't come with the RGB fans or RGB pump/res combo or the coolant I'm after. These bring it back up to a comparable cost or higher.

I've added some 45 degree fittings, a T splitter and an M-M rotary extender. So just to ensure I have this correct...
- The Outlet on the pump will have a T splitter. On one end it will have the extender and then ball valve for draining, on the other, a 45 degree fitting to the tube.
- Tube leads to an 45deg fitting into the CPU waterblock.
- Block has another 45deg to tube that goes to a standard fitting on the radiator.
- Other end of rad has a standard fitting to a tube that goes to a 45deg in the pump's inlet.
Would this work?

I'll have to dig more into the fans, and controllers, since I want RGB (or ARGB) and my motherboard has neither header. The case comes with a controller but I have some more research to do there.

Updated part list: https://ibb.co/iLwbFp
 

grimfox

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I think the loop you have will work. My loop is pump/res -> 90 -> straight -> rad (top mounted) -> Extender-> Tfitting to fill port -> 45 -> 45 -> CPU -> straight -> 45 ->GPU (vert mounted) -> 90 ->straight -> Tfitting to extender to ball valve -> extender -> pump/res.

I'm pretty happy with the runs. Getting the length right on the CPU to GPU block hasn't worked out very well and the fill port is fine for the initial fill but sucks for topping off. It'd be better to be able to tie that into the res but I can't get a fitting between the top of the res and the 5.25 cage. It's just a little too tight and would look ugly.
 

Ronnie30

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Jun 15, 2014
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Thanks. I'm concerned about my ability to top it up, but I took the leap and bought the parts. I've got 2 extra fittings and some excess tube so I'm going to see if I can create a raised fill port up into the top of the case. That way, I remove the glass top and fill it without needing to shift anything else out of the way. If not, I may need to rework it at a later date.
 

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