Front case USBs caused restarts. Mobo port defective?

blahcomp222

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Mar 23, 2014
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Windows 8.1
16 BG RAM (2 sticks vengeance ddr3)
Intel i7-4790K (Not overclocked and I won't be)
Motherboard GIGABYTE Z97-HD3 LGA 1150 rev 2.0
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16...
GeForce GTX 1050ti not overclocked if can

PSU EVGA supernova 650 Watt G2 80 plus Gold.

case = rosewill line glow mid tower atx.



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front USBs caused restarts whenever I jiggled a wire. eventually started restarting even without jiggles even after I inspected all wires and saw no shorts or anything wrong and air dusting the ports and everything under the bezel and stiffly rearranged the wiring which helped for a bit but I finally just unplugged the front case USBs from the motherboard.



Now everything is plugged in the back and I can just spin the tower around but I'd rather not, plus the mobo back case ubs are now all crammed together, and I at least need a hub splitter.

From what I read and what I'll be using USB for, I won't notice lag if I just hub split more USBs from the ones on the mobo back of case. A 3.0 splitter is only like $4.50 shipped from eBay.

Then there are PCI usb hubs that plug into the back of case, or ones I can put in the front of my case where I prefer instead of a hub dangling around on an extension cable.




I do have on this case a front bay for like a regular optical drive (? x 5.25 bay?) so I am thinking to get one of those and plug it into the same port on the mobo that the case's front bezel usbs were plugged into.

So is it safe to say the port on the mobo is not the problem and won't cause restarts if I buy a front bay 5.25" usb hub? or should I get a back-case pci card? I can just spin tower around .













 
What you describe certainly sounds like problems with the case front sockets, and not with the mobo headers. You say the problems happened whenever you wiggled wires around the front ports, but have stopped completely now that those ports are disconnected from the mobo header.

IF you choose to get an external USB3 hub I have a suggestion. First, I assume that there is at least one open USB3 port on the back - NOT USB2. Then, IF you get a Hub, make sure you get one that comes with its own power supply module. A USB3 port can supply up to 0.9 A current to attached device(s). If you get a simple Hub it can only share that power to ALL its devices. But if you get one with its own power "brick", that unit should be able to provide 0.9 A to EACH of its output ports.
 

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