[SOLVED] Fuses blown, PC won't start anymore

Dec 26, 2018
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Hello everyone, There is a small problem
I Recently build a pc as a beginning builder, and something went wrong.
The pc turned on IF the power supply cable was pushed a little down into the psu.
I turned it on and everything ran perfectly for 2/3 minutes, after that it shut off. So I tried to turn it back on again which blew the fuses in my house.
As soon as we fixed the fuses the pc did not turn on again. Is there a reason that this happened? I calculated the power usage and came on 550w so I figured 750W should be enough.

Parts list:
PSU: AORUS P750W 80+ GOLD Modular
mobo: ASROCK x570 gaming motherboard
CPU: 2700x
gpu: rx 5700 xt
ram: G.Skill DDR4 Ripjaws-V 2x8GB 3200Mhz
there is also 1 ssd
and 1 hdd
3 rgb case fans.
 
Solution
the PSU button was ON and OFF when this happened


You mean it buzzed both when it was ON and when it was OFF?

There might be something wrong with the outlet but doesn't matter because seems there's something wrong with the PSU receptacle/cable.

Which part doesn't go in firmly? The part that goes into the PSU receptacle (part with 3 prongs)?

There's something wrong with either the receptacle or the plug if it doesn't go all the way in and it needs to be pushed down for it to work. If the contacts on the receptacle and the PSU don't make proper contact that's why it doesn't work and also why it buzzes. There might be electric arcing there.

I suggest you check with seller and return it to get a replacement or better yet get a...

Satan-IR

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The PSU might be dead or there's a short inside the PSU (might be because it blew) or as in motherboard might be touching the metal body of the case.

If there was a short or arcing the fuse inside the PSU might be blown too.

Did you use risers to separate/distance the board from case?

I would try breadboarding the PC that is assembling motherboard, CPU and one RAM outside outside the case.

Do you have another PSU available to test the system? You can also carefully do the paperclip test with the PSU to see if the PSU itself powers on or not at all.
 
Dec 26, 2018
13
0
10
The PSU might be dead or there's a short inside the PSU (might be because it blew) or as in motherboard might be touching the metal body of the case.

If there was a short or arcing the fuse inside the PSU might be blown too.

Did you use risers to separate/distance the board from case?

I would try breadboarding the PC that is assembling motherboard, CPU and one RAM outside outside the case.

Do you have another PSU available to test the system? You can also carefully do the paperclip test with the PSU to see if the PSU itself powers on or not at all.
Yes I did that, but iI figured out that if i had my psu out of my pc and tried to plug it that way, that there came a zooming sound if i put the plug into the back of the psu (the power).
Can this be the a indicator that the psu being broken before?
 

Satan-IR

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Yes I did that, but iI figured out that if i had my psu out of my pc and tried to plug it that way, that there came a zooming sound if i put the plug into the back of the psu (the power).
Can this be the a indicator that the psu being broken before?

Does the PSU buzz when you connect the power cable to the three-prong receptacle? Did you try with another AC outlet?

Is the PSU switch ON or OFF when you plug it and this happens?

Also did you plug the cable to AC outlet first and then tried to connect to PSU? Insert the AC power cable into the PSU first and make sure it's firmly in and then plug other end into AC outlet and throw the PSU switch and see if it still buzzes or not.
 
Dec 26, 2018
13
0
10
Does the PSU buzz when you connect the power cable to the three-prong receptacle? Did you try with another AC outlet?

Is the PSU switch ON or OFF when you plug it and this happens?

Also, did you plug the cable to the AC outlet first and then tried to connect to PSU? Insert the AC power cable into the PSU first and make sure it's firmly in and then plug the other end into AC outlet and throw the PSU switch and see if it still buzzes or not.

The PSU indeed did buzz when I plugged the power cable into the PSU while the power cable was plugged into the outlet.

the PSU button was ON and OFF when this happened

Yes, I did try that and it buzzed aswell. the problem with the PSU is that it doesn't go in firmly, after around 1 cm of the whole plug I can't put it further in and if I have it in, the plug needs to be pushed down otherwise the PSU does not work.
 

Satan-IR

Splendid
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the PSU button was ON and OFF when this happened


You mean it buzzed both when it was ON and when it was OFF?

There might be something wrong with the outlet but doesn't matter because seems there's something wrong with the PSU receptacle/cable.

Which part doesn't go in firmly? The part that goes into the PSU receptacle (part with 3 prongs)?

There's something wrong with either the receptacle or the plug if it doesn't go all the way in and it needs to be pushed down for it to work. If the contacts on the receptacle and the PSU don't make proper contact that's why it doesn't work and also why it buzzes. There might be electric arcing there.

I suggest you check with seller and return it to get a replacement or better yet get a refund or credit and purchase a good-quality solid PSU. I don't think you really need a 750W for that CPU+GPU and rest of system. I think a solid 600-650W is enough for that setup. A solid PSU not like the one you chose. For example:

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Wr...fied-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-ssr-650fx
 
Solution
Dec 26, 2018
13
0
10
You mean it buzzed both when it was ON and when it was OFF?

There might be something wrong with the outlet but doesn't matter because seems there's something wrong with the PSU receptacle/cable.

Which part doesn't go in firmly? The part that goes into the PSU receptacle (the part with 3 prongs)?

There's something wrong with either the receptacle or the plug if it doesn't go all the way in and it needs to be pushed down for it to work. If the contacts on the receptacle and the PSU don't make proper contact that's why it doesn't work and also why it buzzes. There might be electric arcing there.

I suggest you check with the seller and return it to get a replacement or better yet get a refund or credit and purchase a good-quality solid PSU. I don't think you really need a 750W for that CPU+GPU and rest of the system. I think a solid 600-650W is enough for that setup. A solid PSU not like the one you chose. For example:

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Wr...fied-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-ssr-650fx
the PSU receptacle does not go in far nor firmly.
I will return the PSU and why exactly was my PSU not a solid PSU? It was marked gold 80+, but if a 650 will do as well then I'll take that one.
Thanks for the help. I really hope the PSU didn't fry any other parts
 

Satan-IR

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the PSU receptacle does not go in far nor firmly.
I will return the PSU and why exactly was my PSU not a solid PSU? It was marked gold 80+, but if a 650 will do as well then I'll take that one.
Thanks for the help. I really hope the PSU didn't fry any other parts

I wasn't able to find a reputable review of the 750W unit but one on the P850W and it wasn't that bad. Not sure if the 750W uses the same topology and implementation. The OEM for that 850W is a company I've not heard of before called MEIC. That one comes with a 10 year warranty which actually could mean Gigabyte has faith in the quality and durability of the PSU or wants customers to think so.

Anyway this whole problem with the AC receptacle is at least on this unit or model an indication of not top notch quality and QC.

Also 80+ Gold is a mark, or badge if you like, of efficiency and does not necessarily reflect the PSUs build-quality, component quality, stability under load and durability.

Well it's not a question of wattage as much as it is a question of quality. I'd strongly recommend Seasonic, 650W or 750W.

No problem, glad to help. I hope so too.
 
Dec 26, 2018
13
0
10
I wasn't able to find a reputable review of the 750W unit but one on the P850W and it wasn't that bad. Not sure if the 750W uses the same topology and implementation. The OEM for that 850W is a company I've not heard of before called MEIC. That one comes with a 10-year warranty which actually could mean Gigabyte has faith in the quality and durability of the PSU or wants customers to think so.

Anyway this whole problem with the AC receptacle is at least on this unit or model an indication of not top-notch quality and QC.

Also, 80+ Gold is a mark, or badge if you like, of efficiency and does not necessarily reflect the PSUs build-quality, component quality, stability under load and durability.

Well, it's not a question of wattage as much as it is a question of quality. I'd strongly recommend Seasonic, 650W or 750W.

No problem, glad to help. I hope so too.
IDK if you care, but the pc works with the new PSU :p