GA-X58A-UD3R Won't POST

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kakumei

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Jul 21, 2010
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Just put together a new build with the following:

i7 920
GA-X58A-UD3R
6x2Gb Geil PC10660 DDR3 (2x6Gb Tri-Channel kits)
PowerCool 850W PC-850AUBAM PSU
GTX460

The board won't even POST. Turning the PSU power switch on makes the NB phase and DDR phase LEDs (1xyellow 1xgreen) flash momentarily, then nothing. Only the 'clear CMOS' button LED stays lit. The power button has no effect.

I've tried removing/reseating components, reducing the amount of RAM, and unplugging everything but the 24 pin and 8 pin power connectors; nothing seems to make a difference.

I've noticed the PSU seems to make a faint 'whine' while it's turned on. Could it be faulty?
 
Try removing (3) of your (6) DDR3 sticks. It could be a lot of things including your PSU... Check to make sure all of the PSU wiring are ALL connected properly, (did you use CPU thermal paste), SATA_0 {top connector closest to CPU and closest to MOBO ~ primary HDD}, properly seated CPU, etc.

CLEAR CMOS

Trouble Shoot Memory: {noted problems w/6 DDR3}
A. Uninstall ALL sticks and CAREFULLY compare that they are ALL the SAME MODEL #, note the SNs.
*. (DO NOT USE XMP IN THE BIOS; Instead manually configure your DDR3)
B. Create a "Bootable" CD/DVD of Memtest86+ ; Link - http://www.memtest.org/ ; use (ISO current version ~4.10)
C. "FIND" any bad memory: 1. Install (3) DDR3 sticks in the WHITE sockets, 2. RESTART + CLEAR CMOS (button), 3. Boot w/Memtest86 and test DDR3 for at least 1 but preferably 2 hours.
D. Shutdown/Remove/Replace next (3) DDR3. Boot w/Memtest86 and test DDR3 for at least 1 but preferably 2 hours.
 
Read the motherboard manual, and double check which slots work, Most x58 boards leave the first dim slot open on each bank when installing 3x2G sticks, if you installed it in the first slot of each bank, like every other setup requires, its not gonna boot.


Put it in the white slots not the blue.

I built a similar setup last month, and I knew but still forgot to put it in the right slots. It booted as soon as I got it in the right slots.
 
You want to know everything, read Memory - more than you wanted to know! (utterly shameless self-promotion [:bilbat:2] )

Neither the SPD, nor the XMP on fast DIMMs, will work for setting up more than a DIMM per channel - has been ever thus: didn't work for 775's, doesn't for 1156's, won't for 1366's - just isn't made for that! To get higher ram speed specified in the XMP, and use more than one DIMM per channel, requires that you load one DIMM per channel (white slots...), enable XMP - write down all the memory parameters; disable XMP, set, manually, all the memory parameters. Boost the Vdimm a bit - say, for 1.65V RAM, give it 1.68V; bump the QPI/Vtt so that it's within .38-.40 of the Vdimm; multiply the tRFC you got from XMP by 1.15, rounded to the next highest integer, set tRFC to that number; make sure your RAM's command rate is set to 2N (or '2', or '2T' - however your BIOS presents it...)

If they made the SPD/XMP 'workable' for the few people using more than one stick per channel, the vastly larger remainder would be 'stuck' with a 'non-optimal' setting, as the RAM changes slow it down a teensy bit. You could make the argument, that when the manufacturer sells kits of 4 or 6 DIMMs, they should have a properly 'compensated' SPD/XMP - but mfg just stick 2 2x2 kits in one package to sell you eight - they're the same parts! :kaola:
 
Thanks for everybody's replies, I really appreciate them.

I've tried the following RAM configurations: 3x2Gb White slots only, 3x2Gb Blue slots only, 1x2Gb White slot closest to CPU, 1x2Gb Blue slot closest to CPU, and 6x2Gb.

The RAM sticks are all the same make and model (GV36GB1333C9TC) and I've kept the tri-channel kits together where appropriate (i.e one 'kit' in blue slots)

My main concern is that there's no LED indicating power to the motherboard when the PSU is turned on. What LEDs should be lit on the board when the computer is turned off, but there is power to the PSU and the PSU is turned on?

I'll be dismantling my current computer to borrow the power supply after work.
 
I have a UD7 may not be the same. With power supply turned on I have a blue LED at top right corner. at power on all fans. lights for northbridge, ram, and cpu flash and then are yellow and red.(I am OC'ing a bit).
Do you have the post 7 segment leds at top right? what do they reveal.?
 
You might try the cursory PSU checkout instructions under Power Supply - Basic at the bottom of the 'sticky'...

If you don't have/can't borrow a VOM (and, in this day & age, everyone should have a VOM [:isamuelson:8] !), the picture in the sticky is a 'RadioShark', but I think they're a bit pricey for what you get - you can pick one up at WalMart for $17, it'll come in handy for a lifetime, and, BTW - the one in the automotive dept is a better choice than the one in the electrical/tool dept - same price! 😉
 
Alright, I tested the PSU with an Antec PSU Tester I had lying around in a drawer (it looks like this -> http://www.zakpc.com/images/PSUTEST20.jpg ) and it checked out fine. Is it still worth checking it with the multimeter? To be honest I'm not a big fan of sticking paperclips in things attached to mains power.

My known working power supply didn't seem to make a difference either, so I think I'm just going to go ahead and RMA the board.
 
Ahh - the tester pretty much should tell you everything you'd learn with a VOM anyhow. 'Less you've got a pretty pricey tester, you can't get serious loading, or 'see' excess 'noise' superimposed on a rail - the two things that will cause a failure without being apparent... RMA certainly can't hurt anything, and will at least get your board a fairly serious (though automated) checkout!

Be sure to stick your CPU socket cover back on before returning it - my understanding is that they will not accept a board back without one!
 


Ditto with the UD3 ; personally it is aggravating "to me" even when the RAM is clocked to spec (1600).
 
I have a similar problem with my GA-X58A-UD3R.
Thermaltake 750 XT PSU
6 GB RAM (3x2GB)
NO overclocking.

It worked great up until a few days ago. I accidentally, pressed the 'sleep' button on my keyboard and it hasn't POSTED since. I rarely use 'sleep' but it always came back.

Now... pressing the power button, no beep, the CPU, case fans make a couple of turns, and it all shuts down.

2 lights are lit on the motherboard...DDR Voltage or DDR Phase (I cant tell if they're the same thing or not).

From the bottom (where the card slots are).. the 3rd one is Green, the 4th one is Yellow.

Holding down the power button shuts it all down (lights go out).

----
I've tried resetting the cmos, pulling the battery, the PSU shows its ready, I tried reseating the PSU connections, moving/swapping/removing the memory (just 1 stick and/or 2 and/or 3)...all with the same result. I even tried it with NO RAM just to see what would happen.... all with the same results as described above.

I'm at a total loss. Any ideas? RMA?

Thanks!
 
Hey guys, I just got a Gigabyte GA-x58A-UD3R (rev2.0) and I hooked everything up. My build:

Intel Core i7-930
MSI NVIDIA GTX 260 OC Edition
6 GB (3x2GB) G.Skill DDR3 1600 RAM
Corsair TX-750w PSU
Corsair H-50 CPU Liquid Cooler

But motherboard its not posting or anything almost. It doesn't boot. Power is on and perfect, USB is on charging my phone even while PC is off, but I turn on the power from the PWR Switch and the LEDs turn on and fans and then its just like that. The Phase LEDs (top right corner basically) that read the CPU loading are full and one of those LEDs is red, meaning the CPU is full load, but how is that?
I dont get it. I even went and bought another one, and still same exact problem, frustrating me. Could it be that 2 mobos are defective or the CPU or what? I know my memory 1600 is not compatible but it should still show me the BIOS and boot. It should take memory to 1333. But I mean not even beeps indicating failures. Don't Know what to do. I tried all the different slots for memory and different configurations, nothing.
Any help guys would be awesome. thanx in advance...
 
I think you're a candidate for a 'strip-down'. Here's the problem (for approximately the thousandth time - you're in good company 😗 ) - when you build a new machine, you always want to start it up with the absolute, bare minimum required to get it to boot, outside the case - to test those basics: are my motherboard, video card, power supply, CPU, and at least one stick of my RAM OK?

I'll tell you how I do startups, and it should give you the basic idea:
0270n.jpg

I throw the board next to the case, close enough for the front panel and power supply wiring to reach (and if the PSU wires are too short, just unscrew it and lay it on the table) on a non-conductive surface (someone here suggested a phone book, and I've yet to find anything better!); I assemble: CPU and cooler, vidcard and vidcard power wires (if using one - the pictured board has on-CPU video), power cables (both 24 and ATX12Vx2 or x4), front panel power switch (but nothing else...), one DIMM in the slot designated in the manual for single stick use, and, most importantly, a case speaker! If you don't have one - now's definitely the time to get one!

I power up to check that I can get into the BIOS, and I do the first 'Load Optimized'. Then, I hokk up just a DVD/CD drive, configure the BIOS boot order for it, boot to MemTest86+ (download and disk/stick/CD prep instructions at about the middle of Memory Part IV - "Tweaking and tuning") and runn a couple of passes on that stick of RAM. when it's done, power down, switch sticks, do another 'LoadOpt' (to test each stick's SPD), and run another couple passes. Rinse, lather, repeat - until all RAM has passed testing...

Then, and only then, it's time to put just those same parts into the case - and test again, to check that the 'transfer' went OK - no shorted standoffs, grounding problems, etc. That's where you actually begin your build - start adding pieces, one at a time, and test after each addition - trust me - makes the troubleshooting infinitely easier!

1600 memory is past Intel spec, but almost always works fine at 1600, once XMP has been dealt with - however - the basic SPD in the DIMMs contains setup data for 800, 1066, and 1333 - and your board should have no difficuty with any of those...
 

Hi all. I know this is a couple of months old, but just found myself with this exact same problem, and I'm replying to this as didn't find any new threads regarding this problem. Did you solve it?
It is really weird, since PSU seems to be working OK, and after turning on PWR, LEDs and FANs are all on, and then nothing. No POST, no BEEPS, no video signal. Nothing. I'd like to point out that the system gave some warnings, as it started to have troubles booting up, until it just didn't boot anymore. A few times, after a few minutes working all right, it would seem like the MB lost power, cause keyboard (sidewinder) and mouse (razer) were just off in an instant and monitor froze (GPU off). Any thoughts? Any help will be really great.
SPECS
Intel Core i7-920
NVIDIA GT 220
6 GB (3x2GB) DDR3 1333 RAM
600W PSU
 


I have this exact situation. I shut the machine down and unplugged it while I was out of town. I came home to a dead box with those exact LEDs. Anyone know the solution?
 
Hi,

I'm another person late to the party just looking for some solutions...

I'm building a system with the UD3R mobo. Two weeks ago I experienced the 'power up for 2 seconds, flash red Voltage LED, and then power down with no POST' issue. The computer would continuously reboot and flash the voltage LED until I switched it off. After trying another PSU and a CMOS clear with no change, I RMA'd the board.

Guess what. Got my new board, exact same problem! STILL not posting! I can only assume it's a bad batch, unless someone else has found a fix for this issue and I'm going about something wrong...
 
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