Gaming PC performs well but is terribly loud and hot

Jul 17, 2018
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Hey everybody! I have a bit of a weird request and I assume that the appropriate answer for me would be something along the lines of: "Buy a new rig and go with the time!" ... but... maybe there is a way to humor me after all.

I bought my current gaming/surfing/working computer back in 2010 and I bought all the parts separately, which worked out a little cheaper and allowed me more versatility. I upgraded it in 2013 (SSD and more RAM) to enable it to run Arma 2 / Day-Z. Since then I never had performance issues, but then again, I don't play recent releases. I guess the most demanding games I have tried to play on it have been Crysis 2, VtM: Bloodlines or GTA IV.

Now to my query: My computer is extremely loud and has been for years (to the point where my ears are ringing sometimes when I go to bed) and it creates ridiculous amounts of heat (my desk is in a 15m²/160sqft office and the whole room is noticeably heated by it, by a several degrees above the rest of the apartment). I have reached a point where my office fridge is having trouble dealing with the ambient temperature and cannot cool down my drinks enough. I have tried clearing out all the dust and swapping out the heat-conducting paste between CPU and radiator, but that didn't change a thing.

Now... since I am so happy with my rig's performance and all, I would rather replace what causes the trouble than buy a whole new computer and I have to use Windows 10 at work, and I hate it so much. So basically, I would like to know:
- What can I do to quieten down my PC and stop if from creating so much heat?
- If I have to buy a new one, what is the best configuration that is still fully compatible with Windows 7?

Here's my hardware configuration according to Speccy:
OS: Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit SP1
CPU: AMD Phenom II X6 1090T (6x3.2Ghz) (currently at 68 °C/154 °F)
RAM: 32,0GB Dual-Channel DDR3 @ 803MHz (11-11-11-28)
Motherboard: Gigabyte Technology Co., Ltd. GA-870A-UD3 (Socket M2) (at 42 °C/108 °F)
Graphics: 1024MB ATI Radeon HD 5800 Series (ATI AIB) (at 51 °C/124 °F)
System drive: 232GB Samsung SSD 840 EVO 250GB ATA Device (SSD) (at 41 °C /106 °F)
Storage drive: 931GB Western Digital WDC WD1002FAEX-00Z3A0 ATA Device (SATA) (at 44 °C/111 °F)
 

profoundnoah

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As far as your questions are concerned:

1. Buying new/high quality fans will definitely help with noise/airflow.

2. The best configuration that is still FULLY compatible with windows 7 would be a Haswell system, as Skylake+ systems are not officially supported. I would not let your OS stop you from upgrading to better hardware though. There's plenty of software out there that can help make Windows 10 feel just as good as 7. I myself use Classic Shell.

As for the speccy pic- when was that taken? Under load, idle, or? If it's idle, you've got a huge problem.

THERMAL WISE, there's no real way to REDUCE the amount of heat the PC produces, but improving ventilation to the PC may help regulate temps a little bit. I'd suspect the processor and GPU to be the pieces of hardware throwing out the most heat, given their respective TDP's of 125 and 188 Watts.
 
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So basically, by supplementing the current configuration, I could fix the noise problems, but the heat development will remain a problem?

[strike]By Haswell System you mean a pre-configured Pc that I can just buy off the shelf, I assume?[/strike]Sorry! I googled that and it's a hardware generation. Got it. I dunno about modding Windows 10. If I don't manage or in case I'm not happy with the final product, I wouldn't want to be stuck with it by having a computer that can only run Windows 10.

And regarding Speccy... I'd say I have that huge problem you are talking about. It has been 30+°C outside for a while now, so the computer would be warmer anyways, but I just checked the temp again after just typing away here for 15 min and not even watching a video or anything and CPU temp is now up to 74°C and GPU is up to 60°C. I also have a Speccy screenshot from about two years ago (not sure if under load or idle) and then it was 49°C and 50°C respectively, that was in April, though.

So, I guess if I have a huge problem that means throwing out the PC and buying a new one? Would you consider any components worth reusing in a new PC?
 

profoundnoah

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May 12, 2015
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As far as the Windows 10 modding is concerned, I'm not sure if your work allows you to, but I'd test out different software on your work PC and see what you think. How many years have the temps been an issue for you?

Just to confirm, does the PC EVER thermal throttle? If you're still getting adequate performance, then we can eliminate a cooling problem altogether.

What PSU are you using? There's plenty of parts from your system that can be salvaged, such as the case, GPU, Storage Solution, and possibly your RAM, should you choose to go for a Haswell system.
 
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I don't think I can do much with my work computer. I have turned off Cortana, but that might already have been more that I would technically have been allowed to do. It's an IT company, so I don't want to go too far with this.

"Thermal throttle" meaning that the performance noticeably suffers, because it slows down to prevent some sort of melt down? I remember something like that from many years ago, but I think that was when I had my PC sitting in a very tight space and it couldn't get enough circulation. The heat/noise has been an issue for at least 4 or 5 years (maybe longer), but I haven't seen any throttling in at least 4 years. That's what I meant to say in my original post: I'm totally happy with performance, it is just the noise and heat that bothers me (noise because I'm afraid it's going to damage my hearing and heat because it is ridiculously warm in my office).

My PSU is a "530W be quiet! Pure Power L7 80+". And my case is a ATX Xigmatek Asgard II Midi Tower.

As regards salvaging the GPU - what if the GPU is the culprit in terms of heat/noise?
 

profoundnoah

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I can understand your concern for your work PC. If that's the case, then I'd recommend some more research into mods for Windows 10 online; you might come across something you like.

Yes, thermal throttling is what you specified. If your PC never thermal throttles but idles at 74/60C respectively, then we can eliminate the potential issue of ventilation. Just to confirm, I would like you to run a quick stress test using AIDA64's trial version; if you're using an air cooler, throttling should be apparent within the first few minutes of testing. Just bring some earplugs :) AIDA doesn't show AMD CPU's on the throttling graph, but you can verify the lack of throttling by the CPU not hitting above 80 C, or by opening resourcemonitor, and ensuring that the maximum frequency of your CPU doesn't dip below 90% while running AIDA. Does the problem occur as soon as the PC powers on? Or is it only when it's under load?

As for the graphics card, there's a simple way to test if it's the culprit; if the issue occurs as soon as the PC is powered on, remove the GPU and test to see what the PC sounds like, even if it doesn't output to the display. If it occurs only under load, you could invest in a new GPU such as the 1060 6GB, which wouldn't do you any harm as you could easily throw it into your new build if need be.

This is a good unit for the price: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/jZJkcf/asus-geforce-gtx-1060-6gb-dual-video-card-dual-gtx1060-o6g

Your power supply is of good quality; you can definitely salvage it along with the case and your storage. The issue with going Haswell is that it's hard to find some decently priced used hardware, as sellers are posting offerings for $20 below the price of some of the newest CPUs.
 
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I'm not sure, but I might have disabled throttling in BIOS a couple of years back to avoid these issues... would that make it dangerous to run that AIDA stress test? I said might, because I only have a vague recollection that I might have done that and I'm not sure how to check...
 
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I'm sorry, if I'm a pain or ask stupid questions, I guess I'm a difficult case, because there is a mix of knowing what I'm doing and complete cluelessness on my part, which might make it confusing to help me.

Just to break down the issue, so I can understand it: Based on my configuration, what could be the source of heat and noise?
My guess is: CPU, GPU, PSU? For additional information, I have been idling for a while now and CPU temp is down to 42°C and GPU to 46°C. But it's not as hot out as it would be in the evening.

Considering that my case, my RAM, my storage (SSD and HDD), my main board and my PSU (?) can likely be salvaged, what new CPU and GPU models would you recommend I buy to replace my current hardware? If I do that, is that very likely to remove my noise/heat issues?
 

profoundnoah

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I would say that replacing your CPU and GPU would be the most effective solution. What CPU cooler/Model of Graphics Card are you running? Often enough, blower style GPU coolers can make quite a bit of noise, and eject the most amount of heat out of the GPU compared to standard card models. Idling at 42/46C is still fairly concerning, considering my CPU/GPU are only 6/9 degrees above my ambient right now.

I always say this, but don't worry about stupid questions. The only stupid thing you can do is not ask them and make a mistake later down the line.

As far as an upgrade is concerned, I wouldn't bother investing money in such an aged platform. I'd at least look into possibly upgrading to a Haswell chip, which would warrant a new board, and possibly a new cooler. You would be getting better value for your money by going for the newer B360 platform, but then again, that would require a RAM upgrade to boot. The rest of your componentry, including your PSU can be salvaged.

For Haswell: I would look into an H97 board with an i5 4460 or better.

For Coffee Lake: The i5 8400 all the way. Pair it with a B360 board for a less expensive but still viable platform. This would warrant you upgrading to Windows 10 as well, but I'm sure with a little modding/research, you may come to like it. There's no need to hurry (except for your hearing's sake that is)

Just to confirm that the GPU is a source of noise, try booting up the PC without the GPU hooked up to the board/PSU. That will eliminate it as a source of noise during startup. Only issue is you wouldn't be able to stress test the system since you would need an integrated unit to get an output to the monitor. But still, if the noise occurs when starting it up, then removing the GPU can easily test and see if it's one of the culprits here.
 
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Okay, thank you. I thought I had lost you there by being annoying :)

Here's the models, as per my invoice from 2010 when I ordered the parts:
CPU: AMD Phenom II X6 1090T 3.20GHz AM3 9MB 125W Black Edition BOX (in case this doesn't uniquely tell you what cooler I have, I found this Russian website with pictures, the cooler you see there is the one I have: https://ru.gecid.com/cpu/amd_phenom_ii_x6_1090t/)
GPU: I think what I bought was "Power Color Radeon HD 5850 PCS+", but I don't know for sure, as even my device manager only calls the drivers "5800 series". It definitely has a fan cooler, though.

Okay, so the (Haswell) upgrade route you are proposing would involve me buying a new main board, a new CPU and a new graphics card, right? I could keep using my case, PSU, DVD, RAM, SSD, HDD?

Since we are talking about salvagable parts, there are two more issues I have been having with my PC that I forgot to mention before:
1) When there is a lot of dark grey on my screen (e.g. when looking at images in the browser, where the part of the screen not used up by the image is greyed out) goes to black for some amount of time (couple of seconds) and keeps doing that until I switch tabs or minimize the browser, which is when the screen returns to normal. Is this more likely to be a screen-related issue (LG Flatron W2286L) or caused by the graphics card? I have had this issue ever since I got the PC in 2010 and it occurs irregularly.
2) When I wake my PC from sleep or boot if from being shut down, it will often take a minute or two before my USB devices become operable. I guess that is either a main board or case issue? I am using a USB hub, but all USB ports are effected, so I ruled out that the hub is responsible.

I found a number of H97 boards, which are the stats I should be looking out for in a board?
Regarding the CPU: When looking for CPUs, how will I know if they're Haswell/compatible? Can I get any CPU that is listed as compatible with my board? You are suggesting an i5, does that mean that i7 is a generation too late for me (if I want to keep my RAM and Win7)?`I might be wrong, but would the i5 4460 be a step down performance wise? I mean coming from a six core 3.2 Ghz to a four core 3.Ghz?

I will turn of my PC now and try disconnecting the GPU to see what happens to the noise levels. Just in case I can identify it as the culprit (or in case that black screen issue is caused by the graphics card): What graphics card would you recommend to go with the new main board and CPU (Haswell)?
 

profoundnoah

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It seems to me like the main source of the noise would be the CPU cooler then, given it's known to be quite loud. What would you say your ambient temperature is without the PC running?

Going Haswell would indeed involve you getting a new board, processor, and cooler. You COULD, in theory, keep your GPU and see if it still outputs a lot of noise. If it does, you can run your PC on integrated graphics in the meantime. Intel processors do ship with coolers, but they're VERY low quality and quite loud. I would look into going for something like a Cryorig H7. The rest of the components SHOULD be fine for you to keep, just mind that you'd need to reinstall windows after you upgrade. If you feel uncomfortable about running an older PSU, a new one of good quality will set you back ~$60. Just note that Windows 7 support is scheduled to end in January of 2020, so you'd be shelling out this amount of cash for an OS that wouldn't be supported in a couple of years.

As far as your questions are concerned:

1. Definitely sounds like a graphics hardware issue to me. Of course, I would recommend testing out the panel on another system to see if the issue persists, just to be sure.

2. Have you tried running your USB devices off of the back of the computer? That would rule out a case/header issue. Could just be old age.

As for an H97 board, you should be looking for something that is ATX form factor, and is priced decently. Let me know if you find something that looks like it's a decent price. You can get any CPU that is listed as compatible, though I use an online utility called pcpartpicker to ensure compatibility. There are Haswell i7's out there, though the 4790k does run a little hot, but it's not that big of a deal if you want the extra performance.

Your concern about performance loss is grounded, but unfortunately, comparing CPU's isn't as clear cut as I wish it was. There's too many other variables such as IPC, single-thread performance, TDP, frequency, to use clock speed/core count as two absolutes. The 4460 actually ends up pulling ahead even in multi-core use cases, so you would be experiencing a decent performance increase.

As for a new GPU, it really depends on your budget; I can get to work on assembling a few lists for you as soon as I get a reasonable range.
 
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First I'll respond regarding my two issues, to get them out of the way:
1. Okay, that will be fixed then by replacing the graphics card and if it persists, I'll just get a new monitor as well. I was having all sorts of trouble anyways, could never use the HDMI ports of the graphics card, they wouldn't send any signal.

2. You're right. Stupid me. The USB hub is plugged in to the back, i.e. directly into the board and I also have a flash disk plugged in at the front end. It affects both. So it must be the ageing of the main board then.

Ambient temperature. Hard to say "without the PC running", because that's really just nights between 1am and 9am, where it is cooler anyways. Outside temperatures are in the high 20s °C at the moment, and since the PC heats the room, I guess we have to factor in the ambient temperature the PC helps create. I don't have a thermometer, but it's easily 26°C or more in here.

I assume, if I only replace the board, processor and cooler, keeping the fast SSD and more than sufficient RAM (I hope), the current GPU would be the weakest link in the new config, slowing everything down, right? I guess it would make sense replacing it as well.
Windows 7 losing support in 2020 is unfortunate, but I had actually assumed that would happen sooner or had already happened. I dunno, I'm really bad with adjusting to new systems. Ever since Windows 3.11 I was against every new Windows for as long as I could manage. The only transistion I was ever happy with was Windows 7, because I liked it (after using Win2000 for ages). I guess I'd risk that and MS ceasing their support doesn't mean I can't use it anymore, either - right? I think I'll just risk it then.

That's a bit of a pain, but I think re-installing Windows every couple of years is a good idea anyways. So let's get to planning my shopping spree, I'm up for it.

Here's what I need (/want) to buy:
CPU: You recommended getting the i5 4460. Is there a particular reason why you picked that model? Is it the best? The cheapest? The best bang for buck? If you could give me an orientation of how much it costs and how much more I would have to spend to get a significant improvement over it, I would find it easier to make a decision here (if that is not asking too much!!!).

Cooler: Cryorig H7 sounds good, but I'll wait if you recomment any other processors, since it might not be compatible with those?

Board/Case: I am not married to my tower, it only cost 30€ back in 2010, I'd be more than happy to replace it as well, if there is a good alternative that also allows me to use a better board. My PC is sitting in a compartment of my desk that measures 28.5cm width, 51cm height and 52 depth (11 1/4x15x15 1/2 in inches) and is open front and back - would be good if the new case fit in there as well. Just in case there is a certain case you'd recommend I get.

PSU: I'd get a now one as well, can you recommend one that goes well with the rest of the new config?

GPU: I figured it would be down to the budget. That's difficult to say. Basically... I want to get a PC that is at least as good as what I have, better if possible, but real quiet and cool. If that costs me 500€/600$ - fine. If another 100 or 200€ make a significant difference (in performance or, more importantly, noise/heat output), I'll spend some more. Does that help?
 

profoundnoah

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Sorry I took so long, it was quite a bit of text.

1. That's definitely one way to fix it.

2. Don't worry about it.

Where do you live in Europe? The pricing ranges quite a bit, so in order to give you an accurate estimate, I would like to have that bit of info.
If you had to estimate the temperature before you start up your PC, what would it be? Just trying to make sure that the high temps in your room aren't due to the climate or anything. Yes, that GPU is quite old and is probably a prominent source of noise, so it would be good to replace it.

What exactly is it about Windows 10 that you dislike (there's a lot about it to dislike I know)? If you're not worried about running Windows 7 when it's no longer supported, you *could* in theory go for the latest hardware (coffee lake), but would have to go through a bit of trouble to do so: https://www.logicsupply.com/explore/io-hub/installing-windows-7-on-a-skylake-pc/. I would heavily advise against doing so.

The issue with getting a list put together (CPU and Board-Wise) for you would be that you would either have to buy used or shell out jacked up prices for new components. For example, the i5 4460 goes new for 180 Euros in Germany, while the 8400 (which is significantly better) goes for 182.

As far as GPU's are concerned, look into something like a GTX 1060 6GB. It's a VERY capable card. https://de.pcpartpicker.com/product/9JyxFT/palit-geforce-gtx-1060-6gb-dual-video-card-ne51060015j9-1060d

As for the H7, it's compatible with virtually every modern socket, save Ryzen (which they offer a free adapter bracket for).

For the case, an update isn't NECESSARY, but if you would like a new one, I'd recommend either S340 from NZXT, or looking into the P400 from phanteks. Just be sure to double-check on the dimensions before you buy. Alternatively, the Focus G from fractal is also a good buy. https://de.pcpartpicker.com/product/ZHmxFT/fractal-design-focus-g-black-atx-mid-tower-case-fd-ca-focus-bk-w

Generally, if you wanted to upgrade the GPU, PSU, and Case, along with the processor, board, and cooler at the same time, then you'd need to spend ~800 Euros, which is less than ideal. I would advise upgrading in the following order: (CPU, Board, and Cooler-Note You'll Need a RAM upgrade should you choose to go with the latest hardware), then follow it up with the GPU, PSU, and finally the case. The reason I left the GPU so far down the list was due to the fact that I'm uncertain if you're satisfied with your current unit's performance. I'm fairly convinced your CPU is one of the main culprits here as far as noise is concerned, so if you make an upgrade and it's still an issue, you'll already have a working PC in the meantime. As soon as I get the information, I'll get started on putting together potential lists, though I may come up short when it comes to the Haswell system.
 
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No worries, I really appreciate you taking the time at all.

I live in Germany at the moment, but I move around / travel a lot, so I could equally buy something in Ireland or the UK, if I wanted to. But Germany would be the most convenient at present.

I'd say the temperature in the room would be about 22°C if there was no PC in it. With it it's probably 26°C. There's also a small office fridge in the room, which contributes to the heat and the little motor of my fan that's running all day is probably giving off heat as well.

Phew. What do I dislike. Mostly the built-in spyware, the tablet-esque interface, the new start menu, trouble with screen and docking station compatibility, but mostly the fact that it offers no advantage over Windows 7 in any way that would be relevant to me. Why upgrade, if there is nothing to gain? I am aware that this is not really a rational position, but I spent about 14 hours in front of this things every day, so I don't want to go for something I know will piss me off.
From what you said so far, I guess my preferred option would be to go with a config that is fully compatible with Win7, where everything has a Win7 driver available, etc. If all hell breaks loose in 2020, I can always buy another computer, but going by past experience, I mostly play games that are 10+ years old anyways, I won't even notice when Microsoft stops supporting "me".

I don't want to disregard your advice, since you are clearly more knowledgeable than me, but if you think there is any sense in going down the Haswell / Win7-compatible route, I would much prefer that.

Are both the i5 4460 and the 8400 Haswell CPUs or did you use this comparison to illustrate that I will be paying a premium for getting older gen hardware?

The GPU would be around 260€? That sounds okay...

So, let's recap. I keep my case and PSU for now. I get the mainboard, CPU and cooler - if I get Haswell tech, my RAM will still be compatible. Any particular reason to wait before getting the GPU? To clarify, the GPU is probably the part of my current config that I am least happy with.

One more thing, according to pcpartpicker I have a compatibility issue in my current config, but I don't think that's correct. I'm using the Gigabyte - GA-870A-UD3 ATX AM3 Motherboard and 4x 8GB of GeIL EVO Leggera Series DDR3-1866 32GB. But according to pcpartpicker that main board can only support up to 16 GB of RAM. Windows shows me having 32 GB, though and I am pretty sure I checked the max back then before purchasing more RAM...

I hope I answered all your questions!
 

profoundnoah

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As for the spyware and Windows 10 business, there's plenty of software out there that will completely eliminate any spyware present, such as O&O ShutUp10: https://www.oo-software.com/en/shutup10 . For the interface, you may want to follow these steps: https://www.laptopmag.com/articles/make-windows-10-like-windows-7 (aside from internet explorer, that is). I completely sympathize with your outlook on Windows 10, but as unfortunate as it is, it's really the be all end all if you want to continue hardware compatibility with Microsoft's OS'.

(DO NOTE, I just came across a bunch of sources saying that you CAN indeed run a coffee lake CPU on Windows 7 (the same is true for AMD's Ryzen Platform), it's just that you have to edit a few things before you reinstall the OS (chiefly the USB 3.0 Drivers), check this thread for more info: https://www.reddit.com/r/intel/comments/75exce/anyone_tried_coffee_lake_on_windows_7_yet/, https://www.nag.co.za/2016/02/02/installing-windows-7-on-skylake-there-are-ways-to-make-it-work/, just know that you'd have to go out and buy new RAM along with the other stuff, and RAM runs for a good bit)

The 4460 would be the haswell chip, while the 8400 is Coffee Lake (today's architecture.) The determining of a rational decision depends on plenty of variables. From someone who is used to 10 like me (as unfortunate as it is), it doesn't really make much sense aside from your preference. Again, I'm not going to fault you for doing so, just know the benefits/costs of your decision before you make it.

If your GPU is the thing you're MOST unhappy with, then by all means, go ahead and pull the trigger on a 1060. See if it help solves your noise/heat/connectivity problems. Even if it doesn't you'd still receive a SUBSTANTIALLY more powerful GPU, which would help improve your rig quite a bit. Then, I'd go for the CPU/Board/Cooler upgrade.

PCPP's compatibility checker is a bit finicky at times, I use it it for general analysis, and if there's something fishy, I usually do more in-depth research.
 
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Okay, thank you again. That sounds like a plan. I am correct to assume that replacing the GPU (in contrast to replacing the board/cpu/cooler) will not require reinstalling Windows? What would you think about buying the CPU-cooler (Cryorig H7) along with the new GPU (GTX 1060 6GB) and plugging it on my old CPU (the AMD Phenom II 1090) would they be compatible? That could, in theory, sort all my noise/heat problems with minimum effort, couldn't it?
 
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So, provided you think that's a good idea, I would now need to get:

- GTX 1060 6GB (which model? I looked around, there seems to be dozens of versions and manufacturers, what are the features I should look out for? How much should it cost? Cheapest (because "compact"?) I found is this: https://geizhals.de/inno3d-geforce-gtx-1060-compact-x1-n1060-6ddn-n5gm-a1688579.html?hloc=at&hloc=de
Best offer for "normal" GTX 1060 I found: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B01IMZTEBK?linkCode=df0&creative=22398&smid=A3JWKAKR8XB7XF&tag=geizhalspre03-21)

- Cryorig H7 (not the "Quad Lumi" one, just the ordinary one? I found this: https://www.aquatuning.de/luftkuehlung/luefter/23322/cryorig-h7?sPartner=geizhals)

- heat-conductive paste (how much do I need? are there differences in quality? I found this: https://www.aquatuning.de/waermeleitmittel/waermeleitpaste/1464/alphacool-silver-grease-0-5g)
 

profoundnoah

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Sorry about the delay, timezones and everything.

Go ahead and get the CPU cooler, just BE SURE to store the mounting hardware in a place you'll remember, as you will need it if you choose to upgrade your PC further down the line. The H7 should be compatible with the AM2/3/+ sockets, so you can go ahead and slap it on your CPU. It will definitely help with the noise, but again, your CPU is quite a bit high TDP-wise, so I'm unsure how much good it would do for thermals. Just double-check the dimensions and ensure it would fit in your case. (PC Partpicker says everything fits, but double-checking can't hurt)

The 1060 should be perfectly compatible with your current setup, just note that due to your aged motherboard, the GPU would be running at PCIe 2.0 vs 3.0, which isn't that huge of a deal, just something to note.

As for what to buy, here's what I recommend:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU Cooler: CRYORIG - H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler (€34.90 @ Caseking)
Video Card: Palit - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB Dual Video Card (€274.99 @ Alternate)
Total: €309.89
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-07-20 18:30 CEST+0200

The H7 (standard version, quad Lumi just throws in a nice looking fan) ships with thermal paste which is of good quality, so no need to worry about buying a separate tube. I wouldn't bother with going for the "compact" version of the 1060, it'll likely produce more noise and cool the chip less efficiently. Stick to the full-size Palit card I recommended, it's only around 10 Euros more.

And no, you shouldn't need to reinstall windows in order to add in the GPU, the most you'd have to do would be to download the latest drivers from NVIDIA when the card ships in.

EDIT:
Sorry if I missed this, but have you tried starting your PC up without the GPU installed yet?
 
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Thank you so much. I have ordered those items now.

No, you didn't miss that. When I realised that I would want to replace my graphics card because of those other issues anyways, I figured it wouldn't make much sense. I will make sure to install the parts as soon as I get them, that way I have 2 weeks to return them anyways if they don't fit.

Thanks for pointing out that the GPU will be slowed down by the old main board. I guess I will replace that as well sooner or later, so I'm not too worries. You've been incredibly helpful, thank you so much.

(I'll write an update once I have installed everything, of course.)
 
Jul 17, 2018
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One more question, if I may... how should I remove the old thermal paste from my CPU before attaching the new cooler? Is there a specific chemical I should get?
 

profoundnoah

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Generally, 90+% Isopropyl Alcohol will be just fine. Just ensure you're using a lint-free cloth, and if not, that you don't get any fibers stuck in the socket area. Alcohol works nicely because it evaporates within minutes, making it a rather fast process.
 
Jul 17, 2018
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Sounds like a good plan. The GPU will be here Monday morning, the cooler seems to take a little longer, unfortunately, because the company I ordered it from doesn't work on Saturdays.
 
Jul 17, 2018
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O.M.G.!
I got my parts today and installed them. SUCH a difference. I can't hear my PC over the fridge and office fan! Thank you so much for your advice. I wil monitor heat output going forward.

One more question: Would you generally recommend to install the graphics card software suite as well or just the driver? I never bothered with the software, does it yield a benefit?

And for my next problem:

Is it normal for my storage to be that warm?

Also... why is my graphics card listet as having 2048MB of memory, when it's supposed to have 6GB?
 

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