[SOLVED] Gigabyte AORUS Master sTRX40 LED Code B8 RAM Problem

[westonpjk]

My Gigabyte AORUS Master sTRX40 motherboard stops at LED code B8 during power up, with the DRAM LED lit.

My hardware list:
Motherboard: Gigabyte AORUS Master sTRX40
CPU: AMD Threadripper 3970x
RAM: Hyperx Predator HX432C16PB3K2/32 (8 sticks of 16 GIG RAM)
Cooling: Noctua NH-U14s TR4-SP3 & Noctua NF-A15 PWM fan
Storage: 3 Intel 660P Series M.2 2280 1TBPCie NVMe 3.0 x 4 3D2
Video: ASUS ROG Strix GeForce RTX 2080 Ti
Power Supply: Corsair Professional Series AX 1200

After assembling the above components, and before putting the motherboard in the case, I connected the power supply, a keyboard, mouse, and my old monitor. Everything powered up and was visible in Setup.

However, the RAM was showing a speed of 2400 MHz, not the 3200 MHz I assumed (!) it should say., so I changed it.

Now, my system will not get past the B8 LED code (Reserved!!), and the DRAM LED on the motherboard is lit.

In checking the AORUS Master RAM chart again, HyperX Predator HX432C16PB3K2/32 has a "Speed" of 3200, but a "Native" of 2400

How do I get back to the Out-Of-The-Box vanilla settings? I have cleared CMOS, re-installed hardware, tried a different video card, tried using 1 stick of RAM, then 2, then 6, then 8, and I am stuck at LED Code B8. I have tried every combination of the BIOS switches I can think of.

Also, what's the difference between "Speed" and "Native"?

Thanks in advance for your help.

 

[westonpjk]

What case is this?

Antec P101 Silent

 

[westonpjk]

GOOD NEWS!!! IT'S WORKING!!!

With a workaround.

Antec FAQ said to test the power button by removing the connector and touching the two pins with a flat head screwdriver. In my case (pun intended), my PC didn't boot.

A Google search turned up

https://forums.tomshardware.com/threads/antec-1200-case-power-button-not-working.252671/

which said to try the Reset connector on the Power Switch pins. That Worked. My PC powered up only when I hit the Reset button, and powered down when I held the Reset button down.

Just for Fun And Adventure, I connected the Power Switch connector to the now unused Reset pins. When I turned on the power supply, my PC didn't automatically power up. However, when I hit the Reset button, my PC got stuck on Code 8A (Reserved for OEM Use). Of course.

Loading Windows 10 coming up . . .

 

[Darkbreeze]

I would triple check that you have the correct pin locations. It's possible you are misreading the actual pins in reverse.

 

[westonpjk]

I would triple check that you have the correct pin locations. It's possible you are misreading the actual pins in reverse.

I hear you, Darkbreeze. I checked the mobo manual multiple times, matching the picture with the physical motherboard.

I will check again, but it's working as is, so . . .

 

[Darkbreeze]

Well, that's the important thing.

 

[westonpjk]

Well, that's the important thing.

True that.

I'm writing this on my new PC.

Gave it one more shot. Putting the Power Switch connector where it's supposed to be still failed. Back to the Reset Switch.

I'm sure I could get a new switch assembly from Gigabyte, since the case is still under warranty, but I'm not restoring a 1922 Stutz Bearcat. It works. I'm good with that.

A bigger, more cautionary tale. Size Does Matter.

I selected the Antec P101 Silent case because Noctua said it had enough room for my Noctua NH-U14s TR4-SP3 cooler. It does. I just closed the right side of the case with no horror show. Also, there are mounting cages for up to 8 HDD/SSD drives.

I had to remove 3 of the mounting cages to accommodate my ASUS ROG Strix GeForce RTX 2080 Ti video card and 24-pin main power cord for the Gigabyte TRX40 AORUS Master motherboard.

Stipulated, I haven't put together a PC in over a decade. Still . . .

 

[Darkbreeze]

Stipulated, I haven't put together a PC in over a decade. Still . . .

I'd call that a success then. If I were you though, I'd try to get the whole power switch thing straightened out. Not sure that you meant Gigabyte when you said you could get a replacement switch, since Gigabyte is not the case manufacturer. I think you meant Antec. And I'd contact them about a replacement if it were me. Any fault with one part of the system could have an impact on other parts of the system at some point if there were a critical failure. I've seen switches ruin an entire board before, although that's a pretty extreme circumstance that was due to a shorted contact. Even so, a work around is not the same as working correctly, and if you can get the part for free which is pretty likely so long as you can show them proof of having purchased the case in the last year or two, I doubt very much that they'd contest it. And replacing it is pretty simple.