[SOLVED] gigabyte GA-Z77z-Ud3h

Gunfighter

Honorable
Apr 18, 2013
3
0
10,510
Prior to my vacation my system:
MB-Gigbabyte Z77X -udh
GFX=Geforce 1070
Ram-16 GB DDR3
Boot-Samsung Evo 850 SSD
Second platter-Western Digital Black 1TB
Power-Corsair 650w
windows 10

was functioning buttery smooth-no issues whatsoever, and had been for at least 6-8 months.

I shut it down for vacation, came back to
"Reboot and select proper media device or insert boot media in selected boot device and press a key.

I did various troubleshooting, checking the boot priority etc, all to no avail. Then at some point it stopped even posting, it just continually runs a cycle of attempted start up and shut down, not even getting to bios. I am flummoxed as to what could cause this or how to determine where the actual failure is.

I did check the error code LEDs and it is showing normal procedures (checking connections etc) until it just decides to restart itself. If it was the power supply, then it wouldn't even get that far.

At one point when I did get it to post and read my windows install disc, it gave me a blue screen and continually restarted, displaying a message about driverpmp or something that I couldn't catch.

Any thoughts, ideas?
 
Solution
Sounds like either the mobo is toast or a drive is shorted out. Unplug all the data wires from drives you have and try boot then. If it posts no issue and boots all the way to needing a drive, it's probably a bad/frozen drive. If it still fails, then something in the mobo quit, like a cap.

Could be the psu. In older group regulated design, the 5v (hdds) and 12v are generated together in 1 circuit. The 3.3v is separate. This can be bad if there's a ineffective 12v supply and loads increase the voltage draw, which also raises the voltage on the 5v. Or lowers it. In dc-dc designs, 12v is generated and both 3.3v and 5v use separate circuits to step the voltage down, much more efficient and the voltage on the 12v doesn't change the 3.3v or...
Sounds like either the mobo is toast or a drive is shorted out. Unplug all the data wires from drives you have and try boot then. If it posts no issue and boots all the way to needing a drive, it's probably a bad/frozen drive. If it still fails, then something in the mobo quit, like a cap.

Could be the psu. In older group regulated design, the 5v (hdds) and 12v are generated together in 1 circuit. The 3.3v is separate. This can be bad if there's a ineffective 12v supply and loads increase the voltage draw, which also raises the voltage on the 5v. Or lowers it. In dc-dc designs, 12v is generated and both 3.3v and 5v use separate circuits to step the voltage down, much more efficient and the voltage on the 12v doesn't change the 3.3v or 5v much at all. So in older psus, if the circuit generating the 5v/12v gets out of whack it'll create some funky voltages going straight through, enough to start the pc, but maybe messing with the hdd and giving your mobo fits.

Sorry, but what you've got is a diagnostic nightmare, that with no spare parts to test against, could get expensive replacing parts for no reason.

Honestly there's no cheap or quickly found fix without those spare parts, your best bet is decide just how much the pc is worth to you, is it cheaper to just start upgrading/replacing or take it to a pc repair shop that does have parts it can use, but will charge you by the hour in labor costs.
 
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Solution
thanks for taking the time to reply.
I disconnected all the drive cabling and it won't post. Sounds like it is the mobo. 🙁
Sadly I had reached the same conclusion about the next step
 
Unfortunately, to get a halfway decent replacement model even on ebay is going to run @ $130-$150 and you are right back in the same boat, waiting to see just how much life is left in the mobo. Could be days or years. But it's still a gamble as there's no telling if the board was babied or tortured.