Question GPU broken capacitor! Help needed ASAP!

[lmsrcmig06]

Hello! I bought a used AMD Radeon RX 480 8 GB (MSI Armor OC) and started cleaning the dust and lint (I don't know how, but it was really dirty...). While I was cleaning the GPU itself, I noticed one capacitor (brown rectangle with solder on both sides) was broken: A chipped corner and almost no solder. I might have done that myself (With a Q-tip?), but I'm now worried that it won't work. I'm not turning it on, because, if that capacitor sends power to the GPU, it can overvolt it and kill it. Should I replace it or am I fine without it? I've seen people having a broken capacitor and never notice, but it wasn't on the GPU itself... I'm short on money, so I'd like to solve this as cheaply as possible... Thanks!

The circled capacitor below has a corner chipped and almost no solder.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/ipmiCMj31BaLDz6A9

 

[Eximo]

That picture is useless, capacitor is about three pixels wide.

Unless you have some pretty expensive soldering equipment laying around and the skill to mess with surface mount components that small there is no cheap fix.

Only one way to find out if it is still working.

 

[lmsrcmig06]

According to things I've been reading, those capacitors aren't critical and they, supposedly, only server to filter power to the GPU, giving it cleaner and more stable power, wich is good for overclocking. I can solder it, but I'd need to buy another ones and I don't know ehat capacitor to buy in the middle of ones apparently equal... I've been browsing for some, but I don't know the voltage, so I'll try to measure with a multimeter and see what I can do... I don't know how this happened. If it's too much work, I'll just run it like this and pray for the best, as I'm not taking risks if they aren't needed. If anyone knows what type of capacitor are those, tell me. Thanks.

 

[Eximo]

The voltage is low 1-2 volts likely. so really anything will do.

You would need a Z (capacitance) meter to find out for sure. Many surface mount components are unlabeled. It may not even be a capacitor, but it probably is. Yes, they are buffer/filter capacitors for reducing noise and aren't strictly necessary, but if that is the only connection, it might need to be connected.

I would test the GPU. Worst case it doesn't work, and despite you talking it apart (I doubt you damaged the capacitor, was probably already like that) you could maybe still seek a warranty replacement. When did you buy it?

I don't think a slightly damaged capacitor is going to lead to an overvolt, if anything, lose of material will reduce the capacitance.

These would have been installed with thermal soldering and solder paste/flux rather than a bare iron. Most irons are way too large to deal with surface mount components that small. You risk further damage in an attempt, and it will be obvious you have done so.

 

[lmsrcmig06]

I bought a reference 480, but I sold it and bought this one instead. It's about 2 years old and has no warranty. I figured out how it broke: when mounting the heatsink, I actually dropped the PCB (The heatsink was on the table and I would install it backwards to be easier to screw in.) and one of the screw holes probably hit that specific capacitor and it broke. Now, as I suspected and you confirmed, that capacitor is problably just a power filtering one and the GPU should work just fine without it. I've seen CPUs running perfectly fine with only 5 of 30 capacitors. I actually also sold my motherboard (ASUS B350-Plus) for €15 profit and bought an used MSI B350 Tomahawk. When it arrives I'll test the graphics card, but I'm certain it'll work. As you said, SMDs require very precise equipment to deal with. I was maybe thinking putting a new capacitor on the place and melting a drop on each side and letting it cool, but I'm not risking it. What are the disadvantages of one less of many capacitors on the GPU? Will "dirtier" power affect the performance or overclocking? I traded it just for overclocking, as the blower design is more than fine for me, but I'd like to push it a little more. Also, thank you for giving me such a good piece of information. I thought actual experts wouldn't hit my post, but you nailed it (I only saw your reputation after writing all of this) Should I search for 2V Class 2 0402 MLCCs on Ebay or just let it be? Thanks!

 

[Eximo]

I would test it before buying anything. Typically you want the voltage of the capacitor to exceed what it will be expected to handle as well. A 2V capacitor in a 2V capable circuit is a disaster waiting to happen.

You can buy them new in small quantities from places like Mouser, Newark (which has a new name I always forget), etc. Usually pay more for shipping then the components are worth.

I don't have a Z meter, never needed to troubleshoot down at that level. A very simple test would be to see if you can charge it up, the standard 9V in a multimeter might be too much though, so maybe a resistor in series with that to snub it down to something lower.

I also don't work much with small electronics any more. (I say as I sit down to get ready to do a screen replacement on an Lenovo) A decade back and you could actually fix things. Now they are designed to be disposable, or can only really be assembled/repaired at the factory. I know there are people out there doing it, but you have to become a pretty exacting specialist. Or have access to schematics or at least part lists. I don't have that kind of information net.

Suffice to say, I know enough to be dangerous and to keep people from doing silly things. But I can't really sit down and do board level repairs (heck, not sure my hands are steady enough for that, may last attempt at repairing a USB port looked terrible)

 

[lmsrcmig06]

I guess I'll wait and test it out, but it should work. One capacitor shouldn't hurt performance or overclocking noticeably on practice, so I'm good to go. Before writing this thread, I was exactly browsing Mouser for capacitors, but the offers are too much to let me decide well. I got to the ones I wanted, but then there were differences in voltages, so I just gave. The lowest I found was 10 V, if I remember correctly. Would those work? Even then, I don't even have normal soldering iron equipment, so forget about precise ones. I might find them at my local electronics and PCs repair shop? There are plenty in my small town. Anyways, since the card problably works just fine, I'll just forget about it (Some people only noticed these types of problems after getting components out for cleaning, but they weren't as sensitive as mine.) and not try to solve a minimal problem involving high risks. I'm such in a bad luck right now... The 480 I sold burned the fan connector from nowhere (I suggested an adapter, but the buyer didn't want to...), my mechanical keyboard arrived with LEDs missing and my RGB fans seem DOA... I hope things balance themselves in the future. Also, try not to quit these types of electronics. We need more people working on these things, not companies.