[SOLVED] GPU fan not spinning, won’t post, no signal, everything receiving power

Apr 20, 2020
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So, after cleaning out my PC via compressed air from an air compressor, all of the stuff in the title is happening. I have reset the CMOS via jumper and removing the battery. I have taken everything out and put it back in. I have tried running it without any memory and it doesn’t beep. I have tried running it with one stick of ram in either slot. Basically I have done everything I have read in other forums and websites. I hope it doesn’t come to replacing parts but that’s what I’m here for. Seeing that I need my computer for school work due to recent events it would be nice to get it back up and running ASAP. Thanks for any help you can offer.

(I can tell everything is receiving power because the GPU still gets hot and every other fan is spinning)
 

Karadjgne

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There's not enough pressure in a can of compressed air to inflate a hot-water bottle. An air compressor can explode a hot-water bottle (you know those old school pink things full of hot water to warm up beds) in about 2.5 seconds.

Not to mention that unless the compressor has built in moisture filters of some sort, it can have disastrous affects on circuitry.
 
Apr 20, 2020
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Specs (forgot these whoops):
CPU: AMD Athlon X4 860K
GPU: AMD Radeon R7 360 series
Mobo: Gigabyte GA-F2A68HM-H
PSU: EVGA 400W (this doesn’t have a back power switch for some reason)
RAM: Crucial Ballistix 16GB (2x 8GB)

If you need anything else let me know!!
 

Karadjgne

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You used an air compressor? Not a can of compressed air?

Probably need to pull out the cpu, check for bent pins. If you hit the heatsink with a blast from an air compressor, that's easily strong enough to bust an AMD cpu out of the socket.
 

Karadjgne

Titan
Ambassador
There's not enough pressure in a can of compressed air to inflate a hot-water bottle. An air compressor can explode a hot-water bottle (you know those old school pink things full of hot water to warm up beds) in about 2.5 seconds.

Not to mention that unless the compressor has built in moisture filters of some sort, it can have disastrous affects on circuitry.
 
Apr 20, 2020
85
4
35
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Well... no bent pins. Is there any way to find out what part I need to replace? I was going to upgrade soon but I don’t know if I have the money for that right now.
 
So, after cleaning out my PC via compressed air from an air compressor, all of the stuff in the title is happening. I have reset the CMOS via jumper and removing the battery. I have taken everything out and put it back in. I have tried running it without any memory and it doesn’t beep. I have tried running it with one stick of ram in either slot. Basically I have done everything I have read in other forums and websites. I hope it doesn’t come to replacing parts but that’s what I’m here for. Seeing that I need my computer for school work due to recent events it would be nice to get it back up and running ASAP. Thanks for any help you can offer.

(I can tell everything is receiving power because the GPU still gets hot and every other fan is spinning)
I personally doubt there is damage to the motherboard from using an air compressor unless you had the nozzle right up on the board nearly touching. More likely the terrible quality PSU is to blame if you used the compressor to blast the inside of it. Another thing that might have damaged the system is possible static discharge when handling the parts. There could also be a grounding issue with the case and the parts inside.

Here is jonnyguru's review on your current PSU. He was not kind. https://www.jonnyguru.com/blog/2015/07/13/evga-400-n1-power-supply/

Make sure you plugged everything in properly including to the wall socket and into the PSU. Check the 4 pin CPU power and 24pin ATX connector to make sure they are fully seated and flush with the sockets on the motherboard. You may want to also make sure you are not using the 6pin end of the single 6+2 and 6pin PCIe GPU power rail. Use the 6+2 pin part instead.

If nothing else, I'd say buy a new corsair CX 450 or 550 if you can find one for under $90, before building the new system you are parting together in your other thread. https://www.newegg.com/corsair-cx-series-cx450-450w/p/N82E16817139201 $56 is probably the best deal you are going to find during the lock down.
 
Apr 20, 2020
85
4
35
0
I personally doubt there is damage to the motherboard from using an air compressor unless you had the nozzle right up on the board nearly touching. More likely the terrible quality PSU is to blame if you used the compressor to blast the inside of it. Another thing that might have damaged the system is possible static discharge when handling the parts. There could also be a grounding issue with the case and the parts inside.

Here is jonnyguru's review on your current PSU. He was not kind. https://www.jonnyguru.com/blog/2015/07/13/evga-400-n1-power-supply/

Make sure you plugged everything in properly including to the wall socket and into the PSU. Check the 4 pin CPU power and 24pin ATX connector to make sure they are fully seated and flush with the sockets on the motherboard. You may want to also make sure you are not using the 6pin end of the single 6+2 and 6pin PCIe GPU power rail. Use the 6+2 pin part instead.

If nothing else, I'd say buy a new corsair CX 450 or 550 if you can find one for under $90, before building the new system you are parting together in your other thread. https://www.newegg.com/corsair-cx-series-cx450-450w/p/N82E16817139201 $56 is probably the best deal you are going to find during the lock down.
Should I try and do the paper clip test before I buy a new PSU? It doesn’t seem like my PSU is the problem because it’s turning the fans and everything still heats up (also when testing my gpu with another PC I had to run a cable from my PC to that and it worked).

I have also reseated everything multiple times and that doesn't seem to be the problem.

And I don't think I know what your talking about with the 6+2 pin connector. I don't see one and I am using the same connector I had been when it was working.
 
Should I try and do the paper clip test before I buy a new PSU? It doesn’t seem like my PSU is the problem because it’s turning the fans and everything still heats up (also when testing my gpu with another PC I had to run a cable from my PC to that and it worked).

I have also reseated everything multiple times and that doesn't seem to be the problem.

And I don't think I know what your talking about with the 6+2 pin connector. I don't see one and I am using the same connector I had been when it was working.
If the fans are spinning and the GPU is heating up it means the PSU is still powering it. So probably still ok to use. Check your 4+4 pin CPU power connection again. Make sure you have the correct 4 pin connector plugged in. It should have two square pins of the 4 pins. If you were looking at it with the clips facing up, the side with the square plugs should be on your left.

Your PSU should have a single PCIe GPU cable that has a 6pin connector with 2 extra pins (6+2) connected to it in the middle of the wire and then at the end of there should be a single 6pin connector only. Use the 6+2 part only. Hopefully you haven't been using an adapter instead of the PCIe cable from the PSU.
 
Apr 20, 2020
85
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35
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If the fans are spinning and the GPU is heating up it means the PSU is still powering it. So probably still ok to use. Check your 4+4 pin CPU power connection again. Make sure you have the correct 4 pin connector plugged in. It should have two square pins of the 4 pins. If you were looking at it with the clips facing up, the side with the square plugs should be on your left.

Your PSU should have a single PCIe GPU cable that has a 6pin connector with 2 extra pins (6+2) connected to it in the middle of the wire and then at the end of there should be a single 6pin connector only. Use the 6+2 part only. Hopefully you haven't been using an adapter instead of the PCIe cable from the PSU.
I have been doing all that during my testing and during previous use.

the paperclip test of a PSU is just short of worthless, as all it does is command the PSU to power on, but, gives no indication of what voltages are present/absent, or at what values....
Oh okay. Gotcha.
 

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