Gpu fans not spinning, no power

[reseal]

I was using my computer just fine one day when the screen went suddenly black I turned of the computer and turned it back on but no signal I checked my pcie cables and reseated the card it’s self nothing. If the card was dead I would suspect it would still get power. Please Help

Gtx 780 Windforce
Supermicro x8dtu-f
450w psu
Dual l5640
16gb ddr3 1333

 

[Darkbreeze]

What is the exact model number of your graphics card?

Is the rest of the system working? Are there lights, numbers or beep codes present on the motheboard? DO you even have a system speaker attached to the motherboard system speaker pins to hear beep codes? Are the CPU fan and case fans running?

Do you have another power supply you can use to test whether this one has failed? Perhaps you can borrow one?

Obviously, this is likely either motherboard, graphics card or power supply, but we'd need to know a lot more details to even try to start guessing where the problem is.

 

[reseal]

What is the exact model number of your graphics card?

Is the rest of the system working? Are there lights, numbers or beep codes present on the motheboard? DO you even have a system speaker attached to the motherboard system speaker pins to hear beep codes? Are the CPU fan and case fans running?

Do you have another power supply you can use to test whether this one has failed?

Perhaps you can borrow one?

Obviously, this is likely either motherboard, graphics card or power supply, but we'd need to know a lot more details to even try to start guessing where the problem is.

My Graphics card model number is (GV-N780OC-3GD rev. 2.0)

My motherboard does not post at the moment, with or with out the graphics card, there are no
beep codes. Both cpu and psu fans are running. My motherboard also has a built in speaker. As for the power supply I don’t have a second one on hand or one I can borrow, I will see if I can obtain one.

 

[Darkbreeze]

That GTX 780 requires a 550w PSU, and not just any generic, low quality one. A decent model that can ACTUALLY supply over 450w continuously, not just at peak demand, would be highly recommended. That means a 550-650w unit would be appropriate.

That motherboard model comes back as a server motherboard. Is this a server you are trying to use?

Did you just assemble this system?

That board should have integrated graphics. Have you tried booting with the graphics card OUT of the system and your monitor connected to the motherboard graphics port?

 

[reseal]

That GTX 780 requires a 550w PSU, and not just any generic, low quality one. A decent model that can ACTUALLY supply over 450w continuously, not just at peak demand, would be highly recommended. That means a 550-650w unit would be appropriate.

That motherboard model comes back as a server motherboard. Is this a server you are trying to use?

Did you just assemble this system?

That board should have
integrated graphics. Have you tried booting with the graphics
card OUT of the system and
your monitor connected to the
motherboard graphics port?



I have booted the computer with the integrated gpu before and it worked fine, the problem is the graphics card, it worked fine just for browsing the web, but the computer all of a sudden black screened and the card fans stopped, about the power supply, could it possibly stop the card from turning on, I’m going to try to get a 550w psu next week sometime to test it. Also the computer was assembled by me, I had it breadboarded on cardboard.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Of course, the power supply can stop EVERYTHING from turning on, or anything. I realize you have booted with the integrated graphics BEFORE, but I'm asking to see if you can do it NOW. Just because it worked before does not mean it is still working. PSU could have died. Motherboard could have died. Check to see if it STILL boots without the graphics card installed and the integrated graphics allow it to still boot.

 

[reseal]

Of course, the power supply can stop EVERYTHING from turning on, or anything. I realize you have booted with the integrated graphics BEFORE, but I'm asking to see if you can do it NOW. Just because it worked before does not mean it is still working. PSU could have
died. Motherboard could have died. Check to see if it STILL boots without the graphics card installed and the integrated graphics allow it to still boot.

I just tried booting the board with the igpu and it did not post, it was working a few days ago and now nothing

 

[Darkbreeze]

So, that was what I was afraid of. Did it even power up at all? I am suspecting that the power supply or motherboard have died.

 

[reseal]

So, that was what I was afraid of. Did it even power up at all? I am suspecting that the power supply or motherboard have died.

The motherboard did power on but the cpu doesn’t get hot, I tried removing the ram and still no beep codes, I even tried a power supply out of another computer and the same result.

 

[Darkbreeze]

I'd say you have a faulty motherboard most likely. If the CPU, memory of graphics card were bad, you should at least get a beep code if the motherboard were good.

You might want to strip everything down, just to be sure, and bench test the motherboard as outlined here.

http://www.tomshardware.com/faq/id-1753671/bench-troubleshooting.html

 

[reseal]

I'd say you have a faulty motherboard most likely. If the CPU, memory of graphics card were bad, you should at least get a beep code if the motherboard were good.

You might want to strip
everything down, just to be sure,
and bench test the motherboard
as outlined here.

http://www.tomshardware.com/fa
q/id-1753671/bench-
troubleshooting.html

I went ahead and tried everything thing but it’s all pointing to the motherboard, I was planning on upgrading, and this gives me the reason to. Also about the video card, if a video card is dead, would the fans still spin on the card when a computer is turned on.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Sometimes. I depends on WHAT part of the card has failed. Since most gaming cards get both slot power and power through a six or eight pin, and since the fans can likely be powered either way, it's hard to say just by that. I've seen plenty of failed cards where the fans would still spin and I've seen plenty of cards where the card still worked but the fans would not turn on at all.

If a card does not use a six or eight pin power connector, and is slot powered only, then often the fans will not spin up if the motherboard is dead, but it also depends on what part of the motherboard has failed. If the PCI circuit is still functional but one of the caps has failed, it could theoretically still deliver power to the graphics card on the circuit that powers the fans, but not be capable of otherwise operating the card.

There are too many variables, too many traces, too many interconnected circuits to definitively ever say, for sure, that yes, this or this is bad only because this or that doesn't APPEAR to be working. Mostly we can only try to eliminate things and if everything else seems to be good, then by process of elimination we can more accurately, but not ever fully, say the motherboard is to blame. If there is visual evidence, like a leaky, bulging or blown capacitor, then of course it makes the diagnosis a lot more definite. Mostly though we just have to check sensors and swap parts in order to eliminate what is good, leaving what is bad.

 

[reseal]

Sometimes. I depends on WHAT part of the card has failed. Since most gaming cards get both slot power and power through a six or eight pin, and since the fans can likely be powered either way, it's hard to say just by that. I've seen plenty of failed cards where the fans would still spin and I've seen plenty of cards where the card still worked but the fans would not turn on at all.

If a card does not use a six or eight pin power connector, and is slot powered only, then often the fans will not spin up if the motherboard is dead, but it also depends on what part of the motherboard has failed. If the PCI circuit is still functional but one of the caps has failed, it could theoretically still deliver power to the graphics card on the circuit that powers the fans, but not be capable of otherwise operating the card.

There are too many variables, too many traces, too many interconnected circuits to definitively ever say, for sure, that yes, this or this is bad only because this or that doesn't APPEAR to be working. Mostly we can only try to eliminate things and if everything else seems to be good, then by process of elimination we can more accurately, but not ever fully, say the motherboard is to blame. If there is visual evidence, like a leaky, bulging or blown capacitor, then of course it makes the diagnosis a lot more definite. Mostly though we just have to check sensors and swap parts in order to eliminate what is good, leaving what is bad.

Thanks for the feedback back, you have been a massive help to me. I’m going to try to get a new psu and go on from their. Thanks again

 

[Darkbreeze]

Anytime. If you run into issues later on, feel free to ask for further help. If I CAN be of help, I'll be happy to.

 

[Darkbreeze]

I don't know what country you reside in, and I know that sometimes it's hard to come by good units in some regions, but when possible, when it comes time to get that PSU, I'd stick to the following if you can.


Seasonic. Just about anything made by Seasonic is good quality for the most part. There are really no bad Seasonic units and only a very few that are even somewhat mediocre. They do make a few less-good quality OEM style units, but mostly those are not going to be units you come across at most vendors, and they are still not bad. Also, the S12II and M12II 520 and 620w units are older, group regulated models. At one time they were among the best units you could buy. Now, they are outdated and not as good as almost any other Seasonic models. They are however still better than a LOT of newer designs by other manufacturers.

Corsair. The CX and CXm units are ok as a budget option, but I do not recommend pairing them with gaming cards. The newer 2017 models of CX and CXm are better than the older ones, so if it specifically says 2017 model, or it has a capacity other than an even 100, like 550w, 650w, 750w, etc., then it's likely at least better than those older ones. Aside from that, any of the TX, RMx, RMi, HX, HXi, AX or AXi units are good. Those are listed from best to worst, with the best being the AX and AXi units.


Antec. The True power classic units are made by Seasonic, and are very good, but are not modular. The High current gamer 520w and 620w, or any other PSU you see on the market that is 520w or 620w, are also made by Seasonic, based on the S12II and M12II platform for modern versions, and are pretty good units but they are an older platform that is group regulated so if you go with a Haswell or newer Intel configuration you will want to avoid those because they do not support the C6/C7 Intel low power states. The Antec High current gamer units that are not 520w or 620w, are very good and are not the older design. There are however older and newer HCG models, so exact model number will likely be a factor if choosing one of these however both the older models and the newer models are good.

They CAN be used, if you turn off C6/C7 in the bios, but I'd really recommend a newer platform whenever possible. Prices are usually pretty good on those though, so sometimes it's worth accepting the lack of DC-DC on the internal platform. Higher capacity versions of the High current gamer are not based on that platform, so they are fine. Those being the 750w and higher versions. Antec Edge units are ok too, but reviews indicate that they have noisy fan profiles.

Super Flower. They are like Seasonic and they make power supplies for a variety of other companies, like EVGA. Super Flower units are usually pretty good. I'd stick to the Leadex, Leadex II and Golden Green models.

EVGA. They have good and bad. Bad are the W1, N1, B1, B3 and G1 NEX models. Good models are the B2, G2, G2L, G3, GQ, P2 and T2 models.

FSP. They used to be very mediocre, and are a PSU manufacturer like Seasonic and Super Flower, although not as well trusted based on historical performance. Currently the FSP Hydro G and Hydro X units are pretty good.

I would avoid Thermaltake and Cooler Master. They do have a few good units, but most of the models they sell are either poor or mediocre, and the ones they have that ARE good are usually way overpriced.

Beyond that, there is a pretty good basic guideline available at the following link, although it has not been updated with newer models in about a year.

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-2547993/psu-tier-list.html


And most of the models I have linked to the reviews of at the following link are exemplary.

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-3612443/power-supply-discussion-thread.html